Programming APT AE96600 controller (update: NOT recommended, unstable program)
- Thread starter larsb
- Start date
Despite the big sign saying "don't buy" .. I managed to get this controller by chance and have to make the most out of it.
I got the bike running and everything but...
Where do I get the program/apps/software to configure it.
I can't find it in google even after I went to the 2nd page of the search result.
Do I get the wrong keyword or ...?
Can somebody help me with the link to download?
*I can't contact my seller (MIA) and not sure if QS Motor will ever reply (do they?)
I got the bike running and everything but...
Where do I get the program/apps/software to configure it.
I can't find it in google even after I went to the 2nd page of the search result.
Do I get the wrong keyword or ...?
Can somebody help me with the link to download?
*I can't contact my seller (MIA) and not sure if QS Motor will ever reply (do they?)
larsb
1 MW
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=97089&start=100#p1512320
You need the programming cable—> QS Motor
You need the programming cable—> QS Motor
Thanks larb for the link.
I got the programming cable ready.
FYI
I am running QS hub-motor 8 kw 17" wheel.
2x (in paralal) LifePo4 96v(32s) 28Ah with 60A BMS
Been test-running it the last 3 days.
Still in default settings –god knows what parameter is inside. ECO mode topped up at around 45kph, Normal mode is fun, backward is good, Boost is not enabled yet (running out of switch), regen/braking is not enabled yet (cable and lazy).
So far I am a happy camper. Just need to tweak one or two parameter and see how it goes.
e.g.:
Currently if I let the throttle off, the thing feels like it just coast to infinity.
Can't feel any regen/braking at all.
Hopefully I won't brick the controller.
I got the programming cable ready.
FYI
I am running QS hub-motor 8 kw 17" wheel.
2x (in paralal) LifePo4 96v(32s) 28Ah with 60A BMS
Been test-running it the last 3 days.
Still in default settings –god knows what parameter is inside. ECO mode topped up at around 45kph, Normal mode is fun, backward is good, Boost is not enabled yet (running out of switch), regen/braking is not enabled yet (cable and lazy).
So far I am a happy camper. Just need to tweak one or two parameter and see how it goes.
e.g.:
Currently if I let the throttle off, the thing feels like it just coast to infinity.
Can't feel any regen/braking at all.
Hopefully I won't brick the controller.
Suswinarko
10 µW
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5
Hi All...
Despite the various softwares that I got (thanks guys).. unfortunately I still can't get connected to the controller.
I am totally baffled by this issue. Probably its a hardware issue now.
––I am using RS232 to TTL then TTL to USB, also tried
-- RS232 to TTL then Arduino as TTL to USB,
––I do have RS232 to USB, but it is too old, Win10 is not recognize/support it.
Can you tell me more on how do you all connect to the APT controller?
Hardware wise:
- What do you use to interface between the controller and computer?
Software side:
- Does it has to strictly run on Win7?
I am trying to narrow down my problem by copying a successful setup.
Any help will be appreciated as I don't think I can afford to replace to another brand controller anytime soon :-(
.
Despite the various softwares that I got (thanks guys).. unfortunately I still can't get connected to the controller.
I am totally baffled by this issue. Probably its a hardware issue now.
––I am using RS232 to TTL then TTL to USB, also tried
-- RS232 to TTL then Arduino as TTL to USB,
––I do have RS232 to USB, but it is too old, Win10 is not recognize/support it.
Can you tell me more on how do you all connect to the APT controller?
Hardware wise:
- What do you use to interface between the controller and computer?
Software side:
- Does it has to strictly run on Win7?
I am trying to narrow down my problem by copying a successful setup.
Any help will be appreciated as I don't think I can afford to replace to another brand controller anytime soon :-(
.
SergeyNikulochkin
100 mW
- Joined
- May 6, 2019
- Messages
- 43
Обычный RS кабель, а от контроллера к этому кабелю я спаял сам
SergeyNikulochkin said:
what?
Answering my own question..
The trouble was the RS232 cable.
The one I had (a few different types) contain an old chip that is not supported anymore by Windows.
Using the right cable (newer chip), it was pretty much plug-n-play.
I also found out that the "EV DriveManager V2.0.0.10.1.exe" version has one important setting not visible on the previous versions: Engine Brake (or whatever the correct term is). We can set how much to put back to battery on "throttle release" and on "brake on".
The default number is -100 ... crank it up to -2000 to start feeling it.
I got mine at -4000 and its putting back about 10A when I release throttle.
Thanks so much!
The trouble was the RS232 cable.
The one I had (a few different types) contain an old chip that is not supported anymore by Windows.
Using the right cable (newer chip), it was pretty much plug-n-play.
I also found out that the "EV DriveManager V2.0.0.10.1.exe" version has one important setting not visible on the previous versions: Engine Brake (or whatever the correct term is). We can set how much to put back to battery on "throttle release" and on "brake on".
The default number is -100 ... crank it up to -2000 to start feeling it.
I got mine at -4000 and its putting back about 10A when I release throttle.
Thanks so much!
Hi All,
Thanks for all the help before.
I have further questions about setting up this controller:
My startup torque feels a little mushy. As if the controller limit the power output until certain speed before gradually unleash the power. I got a hang of the Iqref settings (under protection) by now..
But the 0-40kmh still accelerate rather soft. It only gets interesting after 40kmh (
)
Could you direct me on which settings to change to increase the startup acceleration?
I don't really intend to do wheelie or burn out (is it even posible with a hub motor?)
Although I can't say that it won't be interesting.
Thanks in advance
I am using QS 8kw hub-motor on 17" wheel.
Thanks for all the help before.
I have further questions about setting up this controller:
My startup torque feels a little mushy. As if the controller limit the power output until certain speed before gradually unleash the power. I got a hang of the Iqref settings (under protection) by now..
But the 0-40kmh still accelerate rather soft. It only gets interesting after 40kmh (
)Could you direct me on which settings to change to increase the startup acceleration?
I don't really intend to do wheelie or burn out (is it even posible with a hub motor?)
Although I can't say that it won't be interesting.
Thanks in advance
I am using QS 8kw hub-motor on 17" wheel.
larsb
1 MW
Either your phase angle is not correct or you need to increase phase current and battery current.
600A phase correctly pushed into your hub motor will make it everything but mushy.
600A phase correctly pushed into your hub motor will make it everything but mushy.
MJSfoto1956
10 kW
larsb said:
+1 what Larsb said, with a caveat: if your battery, or cables, and/or controller are not up to it, then you will likely need to back things down to 400A, 350A, 300A, or even less depending on your particular setup.
M
Thanks guys...
I believe I have set the max phase current to 600A ––not really sure how to verify;
I suspect it is the phase angle thingy, as I don't understand most of the settings jargon.
Will do a search on it.
Incase you have a shortcut that I can copy :wink: my motor is:
QS WP80029X 190924 4140
According to QS documentation (somewhere) it means:
V3 Motor with 16 pole pairs, 8000 watt, 40 windings, 32 magnet
Battery side.. Generic BMS with 120A continous (peak around 300A ?)
No cutoff event so far ––Maybe because I set Mode 4 idc at 150A (?)
*
Also attached is my current motor parameter settings –pretty much default
Edit:
I found this documentation..
Seems like my phase angle is already "as recommended" for my WP motor (at -105 degree)
Not sure if its related but at Aliexpress spec, they mention "Hall Sensor Phasing angle: 120 degree"
Any ideas?
I believe I have set the max phase current to 600A ––not really sure how to verify;
I suspect it is the phase angle thingy, as I don't understand most of the settings jargon.
Will do a search on it.
Incase you have a shortcut that I can copy :wink: my motor is:
QS WP80029X 190924 4140
According to QS documentation (somewhere) it means:
V3 Motor with 16 pole pairs, 8000 watt, 40 windings, 32 magnet
Battery side.. Generic BMS with 120A continous (peak around 300A ?)
No cutoff event so far ––Maybe because I set Mode 4 idc at 150A (?)
*
Also attached is my current motor parameter settings –pretty much default
Edit:
I found this documentation..
Seems like my phase angle is already "as recommended" for my WP motor (at -105 degree)
Not sure if its related but at Aliexpress spec, they mention "Hall Sensor Phasing angle: 120 degree"
Any ideas?
Bump
Went for Dyno and the chart kinda shows the "mushy" part of the low torque. The blue line. I suspect that my combo of parts can do better with the right settings.
Any idea on where/which part of the setting I should tweak to make it do something like burn-out and wheelie?
I promise I won't do that too often.
Went for Dyno and the chart kinda shows the "mushy" part of the low torque. The blue line. I suspect that my combo of parts can do better with the right settings.
Any idea on where/which part of the setting I should tweak to make it do something like burn-out and wheelie?
I promise I won't do that too often.
Attachments
larsb
1 MW
Set dc current to 250A, phase current on 600A for all rpms. Hope you have a temp sensor in your motor :wink:
Do you have sport mode button connected? Connect it, or hardwire the correct pins.
Is 531 Nm torque correct? Wouldn’t call that mushy.
You should show the dyno chart vs rpm, time is not so meaningful.
Cheers/ Larsb
Do you have sport mode button connected? Connect it, or hardwire the correct pins.
Is 531 Nm torque correct? Wouldn’t call that mushy.
You should show the dyno chart vs rpm, time is not so meaningful.
Cheers/ Larsb
Thanks Larsb.
If I got it right, the issue is at my "Input Current" which I set at 150A (and limited by the battery BMS). (Yes?)
Other than that, seems like the weak point for me is the cable from controller to motor. That thing heats up to an untouchable condition during short hard riding. The rest of the cables and even the motor is just "warm". The unfortunate issue is that I don't think I am good enough to change/upgrade that cable ––as it will require opening the motor etc etc.
The 531Nm is wrong.
The guy put the setting at 0.24 gear ratio –when my hub-motor is obviously at 1:1
So its more like 531Nm x 0.24 = 127 Nm (more sensible)
RPM also 15172 x 0.24 = 3641
Interestingly.. since I set Max RPM at 2550, the indicated rpm by the dyno means that the flux weakening thing is working. Some extra 1000rpm after the set max.
If I got it right, the issue is at my "Input Current" which I set at 150A (and limited by the battery BMS). (Yes?)
Other than that, seems like the weak point for me is the cable from controller to motor. That thing heats up to an untouchable condition during short hard riding. The rest of the cables and even the motor is just "warm". The unfortunate issue is that I don't think I am good enough to change/upgrade that cable ––as it will require opening the motor etc etc.
The 531Nm is wrong.
The guy put the setting at 0.24 gear ratio –when my hub-motor is obviously at 1:1
So its more like 531Nm x 0.24 = 127 Nm (more sensible)
RPM also 15172 x 0.24 = 3641
Interestingly.. since I set Max RPM at 2550, the indicated rpm by the dyno means that the flux weakening thing is working. Some extra 1000rpm after the set max.
larsb
1 MW
127Nm is not so much. Is it a QS motor? What do they rate it at for torque?
What is your protection settings?
What is your protection settings?
MJSfoto1956
10 kW
stormizer said:I don't really intend to do wheelie or burn out (is it even posible with a hub motor?)
Although I can't say that it won't be interesting.
Do you have the 3-speed switch installed?
At the power setting, you will likely get decent burnout.
At the Eco setting you'll likely double your range.
Michael
larsb
1 MW
So if the dyno was incorrect i’d guess i’s worth to recalculate:
96V battery and 150A is 14.4kW max for your system
25hp is 18.6kW but correction 0.24 puts it at 4.5kW
Yeah, that’s poor. You’d need to upload all settings screens to get more help.
96V battery and 150A is 14.4kW max for your system
25hp is 18.6kW but correction 0.24 puts it at 4.5kW
Yeah, that’s poor. You’d need to upload all settings screens to get more help.
Thanks guys!!
I appreciate all the helps.
Attached is my setting.
Please let me know if there is anything I can improve and/or should watch out for.
Sidenote:
My BMS is rated at 120A, with unknown burst –I know it works coz at some point during hard throttle, it cuts my power off.
Battery is generic LifePo4 of unknown origin (China?). Total nominal 96Ah 56Ah.
My seller mentioned the battery is rated at 3C. Being not familiar with LifePo4, I am not sure if that 3C is normal or peak. Thus the 120A cap from BMS keeps me feels safe. What do you think?
I appreciate all the helps.
Attached is my setting.
Please let me know if there is anything I can improve and/or should watch out for.
Sidenote:
My BMS is rated at 120A, with unknown burst –I know it works coz at some point during hard throttle, it cuts my power off.
Battery is generic LifePo4 of unknown origin (China?). Total nominal 96Ah 56Ah.
My seller mentioned the battery is rated at 3C. Being not familiar with LifePo4, I am not sure if that 3C is normal or peak. Thus the 120A cap from BMS keeps me feels safe. What do you think?
Attachments
larsb
1 MW
If you get cutouts from bms then i’d lower the battery current setting. Bms cutouts create voltage spikes in the system and it stresses the electronics.
What drive mode are you using? I’d try connecting the boost button and see if this mode has more kick for you.
What drive mode are you using? I’d try connecting the boost button and see if this mode has more kick for you.
So far I only got several cutout..
That was before I lower the Max IDC and during prolonged Boost.
These days I never got any cutout anymore.
"stresses the electronics" <-- noted, will watch out for it.
Boost is connected and works pretty well.
Still not feeling any significant kick on startup (hold boost while throttling from stop).
After rolling (maybe 20-30 kph), I can definitely feel the kick.
If I learn anything from our discussion..
what I need to get a sporty start is:
- Increase the Mode IDC to something much more than 120A
- Upgrade/Change BMS to higher Amps to avoid cutout
Am I on the right direction there?
Or you think there is other settings I need to watch out?
That was before I lower the Max IDC and during prolonged Boost.
These days I never got any cutout anymore.
"stresses the electronics" <-- noted, will watch out for it.
Boost is connected and works pretty well.
Still not feeling any significant kick on startup (hold boost while throttling from stop).
After rolling (maybe 20-30 kph), I can definitely feel the kick.
If I learn anything from our discussion..
what I need to get a sporty start is:
- Increase the Mode IDC to something much more than 120A
- Upgrade/Change BMS to higher Amps to avoid cutout
Am I on the right direction there?
Or you think there is other settings I need to watch out?
larsb
1 MW
Normally there will not be decreased phase current due to low battery current at start/low rpm. I don’t think this is your issue.
Could you try some things:
unselect backward enable setting, does it change anything?
Your program is more complete than the one i have. Can you set motor lock iac and heavy load iac parameter to 100%? Does it change anything?
Could you try some things:
unselect backward enable setting, does it change anything?
Your program is more complete than the one i have. Can you set motor lock iac and heavy load iac parameter to 100%? Does it change anything?
Motor Lock IAC is maxed at 30. Any number i put beyond will read back as 30.
Heavy Load IAC .. Originally at 50%, I increased to 70%. Doesnt seems to have much impact.
Will try to play more with Heavy Load Iac tomorrow.
Also the backward enable as suggested. Who knows
Either that or the max input (batt) current is combination of Mode 4 IDC and Heavy Load Iac (?)
– in my case 120A + 70% = 204 A
-----
Program I am using can be downloaded here
http://azhar.pangesti.com/APT/
Its a mixed bag of stuff collected from various places. Sorry for the mess
-----
Backtrack a bit.
Re: dyno result.
I mean.. there is no way I can get decent riding (which i have now) with 4.5kw.
The resulting 25hp (18.6kw) feels about right.
Heavy Load IAC .. Originally at 50%, I increased to 70%. Doesnt seems to have much impact.
Will try to play more with Heavy Load Iac tomorrow.
Also the backward enable as suggested. Who knows
This is very interesting. That probably explains why I can see around 200A during startup ––measured out from battery
Either that or the max input (batt) current is combination of Mode 4 IDC and Heavy Load Iac (?)
– in my case 120A + 70% = 204 A
-----
Program I am using can be downloaded here
http://azhar.pangesti.com/APT/
Its a mixed bag of stuff collected from various places. Sorry for the mess
-----
Backtrack a bit.
Re: dyno result.
I don't think the horsepower need to be corrected by 0.24 gear ratio .. as it is only related to rpm.
I mean.. there is no way I can get decent riding (which i have now) with 4.5kw.
The resulting 25hp (18.6kw) feels about right.
Similar threads
- Question
