dominik h said:The water-cooled plate was included with the 80550, or did you buy it separatly?
Usually sold as a separate kit
dominik h said:The water-cooled plate was included with the 80550, or did you buy it separatly?
philjk2007 said:I too need help or a link or zip file and a way to open in windows 10 i have read this thread from beginning to end with no luck of even opening the programming software any help would be appreciated.
therobby3 said:@bingbwy Any link to where I can download that new software?
Ugh.... So I managed to buy an APT961000 and it's been working good for a week. Now all of a sudden it won't work... I was working on the wiring for the speedometer and the only thing I can think of is that the pulse output wire and either the ground or 96v touched each other. I did't hear any pop or smoke or anything from the controller. Now, the green light on the controller is just flashing green in 1 second intervals, and PC software won't work either...
It looks like the controller still holds a charge even after you disconnect the battery for a solid 15-20 minutes. Maybe some capacitors or something are holding energy in there, I dunno. So even though I had the main power switched off, I may have still been gettting voltage through that way..
Could I really have killed the whole controller just by grazing the pulse output wire to 96v? Gah.... Feeling a bit discouraged now...
Sent from my LM-Q720 using Tapatalk
therobby3 said:@bingbwy Thanks so much, that could be of some help. Unfortunately still no luck with the controller, so I am beginning to get a bit scared, as I paid quite a bit for the controller. It'd suck to have to junk it due to what is probably such a tiny problem.
Just to be sure, the blinking you are mentioning is referring to the green light, correct? Mine it blinking at about one a second, so I'd assume it is #1 if that's the case. I have no idea where that "coil temperature sensor" would be, and if it's inside I think the inside is covered in some waterproof electronic crap, so that may be quite an ordeal. Any ideas? Also curious where you got that information from. The only info I was able to find was a few codes for the red light blinking in an APT manual, and that's it. If you have any and all information, I'd truly appreciate it.
bingbwy said:2021-08-09 183959.png
Hey, now there's a new APT software
Now the firmware program is built-in. If you are connected to the Internet, you can update to the latest version and apply presets as DAT files.
The bluetooth app worked too I bought the 72420 first and I'm going to buy the 80550
volcamin said:Ater hours of tracking chinese wechat posts, i finally found the new APT programming software, now I'm facing new issue,(surprise) I cant login or register, it requires registration with phone number, but no matter what number I give them, it wont send the code to my SMS.
Anyone could help?
bingbwy said:volcamin said:Ater hours of tracking chinese wechat posts, i finally found the new APT programming software, now I'm facing new issue,(surprise) I cant login or register, it requires registration with phone number, but no matter what number I give them, it wont send the code to my SMS.
Anyone could help?
What post was the software on?
SergeyNikulochkin said:larsb said:I don't know.
I've run it at 200A for a long time and 250-300A just a short while. The controller is completely dead now as the program is corrupted and i have removed it from my bike so it will be a while before i try the new firmware.
200 to 250A equals 60% more heat so it's a big step..
Hello Friend
Can you share firmware for APT96600 for mid drive motor with me?
hubbe said:After running 2 packs total I was to show the machine to my brother yesterday and it would not start. Motor just clicks and then nothing. Connecting to the controller everything seems fine but after applying throttle the "Over iac" field on the History side turns to NG.. in red.. And since it's in red I get that it's not good.
When I apply the tiniest bit of throttle the Iq actual goes to 726, which seems A LOT..
Never tried any of this, but this is the first hit for breaking a zipfile password:but since I can't seem to get the password for the manual .zipfile I really have no idea what I'm looking at.
Also - when I try to get to the "Motor" settings tab in the software it just throws a popup saying "Illegal parameter attribute" and crashes.. ?
You could make one, by using the Lebowski brain board to drive the powerstage of a large EV controller. It's been done a few times; I have a thread about doing it for a Honda IMA controller, which is based on someone else's successful conversion doing the same thing. Even though I have not finished mine yet, the thread should be complete enough to do the whole thing, along with the Lebowski documentation.hubbe said:Don't quite know what other 10kW+ 26S controllers there are out there for a hobbyist to get..
There is a possibility, though slim, that there is only a connection between phases and laminations at much higher voltage than a multimeter uses. I have an MXUS 3k (45h?) that has such a problem; I "fixed" it with CoronaDope, but it required a special meter that uses high voltage to test for insulation failures to find the problem.I've measured the phase wires. 0,1ohm between phases and no connection between phases and casing of motor.. should be ok.
Does the software have a way to TOTALLY RESET the controller to complete factory defaults, in case something is wrong with a setting (corrupt, etc)?I can't click the motor tab in the software without being connected to the controller, they're all just greyed out - but yeah, the software isn't the most stable.
hubbe said:[update]
So, I took everything apart and measured everything thoroughly.. When I measure the resistance between B- and the phase outputs the two first phases are OL but the third one is 0.1ohm, ie shorted to B-.. That might explain why it goes into over-current shutdown immediately..
therobby3 said:Oh man, that definitely sucks. =[ I guess electric conversions isn't a thing to get into unless your ok with possible throwing away a chunk of money. =/
Any word on that manual you got those light blinks from? The entire controller is covered in electronic potting, so it's not looking good that I'd even be able to find said "external coil temperature sensor" even if that was it though. Weird they would refer to it as "external" though. I don't know of any "external" sensor on it.
harrisonpatm said:Hi, I've read this post extensively, and maybe someone might be able to help me out with one issue I'm having with this controller. The low-level brake input doesn't seem to be working. I'm using a 72v battery with an 8000W hub motor and I was sent this controller as part of a package. I am happy with all the settings, except for this: when I engage the low-level brake, while the wheel is spinning at about 200-400 rpm, one of two things happens. Either the wheel begins a jerky sort of cruise control, spinning on it's own at about 300 rpm without any throttle input. Or, it will immediately jump to it's max rpm, 1050rpm, again with no throttle input. Obviously a terribly thing to have happen when you're trying to activate the brake.
I've already reinstalled the firmware to reset all it's setting back to zero, and the issue still persists. What I'm trying to do is to get the regenerative braking to start when I engage the low level brake. I have already successfully found the setting to enable automatic regenerative braking to function; "max slip reg Q," under mode set, and I can start seeing decent braking occur when I let go of the throttle, at about -4000. Altering "max reg q" does nothing, and at this point I am afraid to test the function further because I don't want the wheel to jump out of it's test rig.
If I sort this function out, that's okay, I still have mechanical brakes on both wheels and I can find a setting for the automatic regen that I like. I was just hoping to have some manual control over regen.
Thanks in advance,
Patrick
amberwolf said:Does the problem happen while riding? Or only not under load, wheel off ground?
An FOC controller with poor firmware design might operate differently without a load vs in actual usage.
harrisonpatm said:This is just happening under no load for now, suspended in a test rig. Are you suggesting that I try the brake input when its on the bike, on the road, with me on it? That makes me nervous to try, after seeing it go from 200rpm to 1000 rpm in half a second. I was hoping to have it sorted before I get it on the bike. Otherwise I'll probably just skip it.