Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

[BCTECH]

The frame comes with a key switch. which controller are you planning to use? the max-e comes with on/off feature which is handy to connect to the key switch.

 

[sonnetg]

The frame comes with a key switch. which controller are you planning to use? the max-e comes with on/off feature which is handy to connect to the key switch.

I have not decided on the controller yet, but chances are it will come with a key switch.

However, are there any switches out there that would allow me to completely disconnect the battery from the controller? Most controllers have switches on them, and turning the controller key/switch off could still cause the battery to drain slightly. If not checked regularly, it could potentially damage the battery. How do you all take precautions so this does not happen, especially during long winter months?

 

[Mammalian04]

I have not decided on the controller yet, but chances are it will come with a key switch.

However, are there any switches out there that would allow me to completely disconnect the battery from the controller? Most controllers have switches on them, and turning the controller key/switch off could still cause the battery to drain slightly. If not checked regularly, it could potentially damage the battery. How do you all take precautions so this does not happen, especially during long winter months?

Circuit Breaker.

 

[sonnetg]

I have not decided on the controller yet, but chances are it will come with a key switch.

However, are there any switches out there that would allow me to completely disconnect the battery from the controller? Most controllers have switches on them, and turning the controller key/switch off could still cause the battery to drain slightly. If not checked regularly, it could potentially damage the battery. How do you all take precautions so this does not happen, especially during long winter months?

Circuit Breaker.

Excellent. I have seen the Circuit Breaker being used on some builds, but had no idea it was used as a "Master Switch". A better more compact solution would have been nice, but the circuit breaker is a simpler solution than using FETs or Relays. Thank you.

 

[ziltoid81]

I use a 80vdc 125A breaker as a main switch.
Works good.

 

[sonnetg]

Hello,

I think I am pretty much set on the quilbix frame. I have estimated $2000 for the frame kit including S&H to Maryland USA. Are there any quirks I need to be aware of when it comes to Customs? Any brokering service fees or taxes I will need to budget for :?

Thank you.

 

[Offroader]

Hello,

I think I am pretty much set on the quilbix frame. I have estimated $2000 for the frame kit including S&H to Maryland USA. Are there any quirks I need to be aware of when it comes to Customs? Any brokering service fees or taxes I will need to budget for :?

Thank you.

Nope nothing, it will be delivered right to your door by USPS. This isn't Europe with those high custom fees.

Are you getting motorcycle seat or bicycle seat? I would honestly get both if you are unsure.

 

[sonnetg]

Hello,

I think I am pretty much set on the quilbix frame. I have estimated $2000 for the frame kit including S&H to Maryland USA. Are there any quirks I need to be aware of when it comes to Customs? Any brokering service fees or taxes I will need to budget for :?

Thank you.

Nope nothing, it will be delivered right to your door by USPS. This isn't Europe with those high custom fees.

Are you getting motorcycle seat or bicycle seat? I would honestly get both if you are unsure.

Oh wow...that is excellent

I know US is exempt from VAT, but i know few folks on this forum who had to pay to release items from customs. If the packages are sent separately, customs will probably let go.

I am not sure which seat to get, but it may be worth while to try both. If I didn't have to use derailleur, a motoseat would have been perfect. Given the frame design, I have to use a derailleur or chain tensioner, which is a kind of bummer. The Raptor frame does look much nicer and sturdier than the stealth flux bike design. Maybe because of the bottom bracket location being on the frame rather than the swingarm itself. I will take my time to slowly build this. This is not going to be cheap project unlike my other bike conversion projects, but definitely worthwhile.

By the way, any recommendation on wheels/rims? It seems 24" DH wheels are very difficult to find, but there are plenty of Moped or MC wheels available. I am a bit concerned about the front DNM USD-8 fork width. Would I be able to fit 3" tires on the DNM USD-8 fork? What is the max width of the tire the DNM USD-8 can take fit? Certainly not 4", can it? The MC or Moped tires are a bit misleading when it comes to measurements, especially after it's inflated. I prefer the looks of 17" moped wheels, but It may cause issues with the crankarm clearance. I would prefer the wheels to be as light as possible. I will have to store this bike during winter months, and carry this to the 3rd floor attic

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

the max tire width i would recommend for dnm usd8 is ~3" measured..
such as shinko sr241 2.75 labeled tire actually measures ~3"+ wide..
dnm usd8 is ~89mm between the fork legs at the seals..
and you need a bit of clearance for safety, etc..

you can fit maybe a bit wider tire on a non usd fork such as fox, marzocchi etc..
but not much wider than 3" unless the fork is designed for plus size wheels, etc..

(if you prefer not to use derailleur/ chain tensioner then have you heard of flux beta concentric rear swing pivot??

I am not sure which seat to get, but it may be worth while to try both. If I didn't have to use derailleur, a motoseat would have been perfect. Given the frame design, I have to use a derailleur or chain tensioner. It's a kind of bummer, but the frame looks much nicer and sturdier than the stealth flux bike design. Maybe because of the bottom bracket location being on the frame rather than the swingarm itself. I will take my time to slowly build this. This is not going to be cheap project unlike my bike conversion projects, but definitely worthwhile.

By the way, any recommendation on wheels/rims? It seems 24" DH wheels are very difficult to find, but there are plenty of Moped or MC wheels available. I am a bit concerned about the front DNM USD-8 fork width. Would I be able to fit 3" tires in the DNM USD-8 fork? What is the max width of the tire the DNM USD-8 can take fit? Certainly not 4", can it? The MC or Moped tires are a bit misleading when it comes to measurements, especially after it's inflated. I prefer the looks of 17" moped wheels, but It may cause issues with the crankarm clearance. I would prefer the wheels to be as light as possible. I will have to store this bike during winter months, and carry this to the 3rd floor attic

 

[sonnetg]

Thank you efmx. This is extremely helpful information. I absolutely need to get things right the first time. I am almost done finalizing my list and my budget Hope to slowly get there

As for Flux or Even vector frame, the bottom bracket is installed on the swingarm rather than the body, so you can rotate the swing arm 360 degrees and not have to worry about a chain tensioner, but those frame looks out of symmetry and awkward...at least to my eyes. The vector frame is nice though, but the Raptor looks amazing...just have to have it. Will figure something out with tensioners when time comes. I have a hunch i will rarely use the pedals. This will not be my everyday bike, only on rare occaision will i take it out to have fun with friends and such or use it to promote LEVs. I am all about efficiency, and this bike will not be as efficient as my road bike, but I dont need the Raptor to be efficient. This bike needs to be all about speed and torque... :lol:

Cheers.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

flux beta (not alpha), stealth bomber, and nyx all have concentric bottom bracket pivot..
that is not the same as fighter, or vector etc.. unified rear swing..

but any of these frames should be a nice ebike
keep us posted on the progress..

Thank you efmx. This is extremely helpful information. I absolutely need to get things right the first time. I am almost done finalizing my list and my budget Hope to slowly get there

As for Flux or Even vector frame, the bottom bracket is installed on the swingarm rather than the body, so you can rotate the swing arm 360 degrees and not need a tensioner, but those frame looks out of symmetry and awkward...at least to my eyes. The vector frame is nice though, but the Raptor looks amazing...just have to have it. Will figure something out with tensioners when time comes. I have a hunch i will rarely use the pedals. This will not be my everyday bike, only on rare occaision will i take it out to have fun with friends and such or use it to promote LEVs. I am all about efficiency, and this bike will not be as efficient as my road bike, but I dont need the Raptor to be efficient. This bike needs to be all about speed and torque... :lol:

Cheers.

 

[Offroader]

Raptor frame is built with top quality, build quality is excellent. Qulbix designs and from what I read he builds and welds his own frames so quality control is there. I don't think anyone has complained about any issues.

Raptor frame is also a steel box frame like the stealth bikes. I believe vector is a tube frame. I heard a tube frame isn't as strong but it probably doesn't matter.

I still recommend a downhill bicycle rim on the front over a motorcycle rim, but I never tried the motorcycle rim. The problem with a motorcycle rim on the front is you have to go small which messes with geometry, and you add lots of weight where it isn't needed. Only problem is it is harder to get fromt tires in the 2.7 to 3.0" size. Like the duro razorback.

Maybe one day I'll lace up a 19" motorcycle rim and try it out to settle this issue once and for all.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

Offroader,

if you run a bit smaller diameter front wheel such as 24" bike or 19" moto
then maybe you will stop bottoming your dnm usd8 fork on the front tire??
(or get a newer fork for plus size wheels)
you can adjust the head angle with headset choice (internal or external cups), rear shock length, wheel size, shock mount location, etc..
also,
your front tire hitting the fork crown can be a serious safety issue..
where is your lower fork crown bolted relative to the max line on the fork legs??
how much air pressure do you run in the lower fork leg pressure chamber??
how much is your suspension sag with bike and rider weight??
please measure the distance from the top of your front tire to the bottom of the lower fork crown..
this distance must be equal to at least the length of full suspension travel plus some margin for safety..
im sure your bike is not light weight with such power and range on board so you would likely need to stiffen up the suspension to help compensate for the added weight..

 

[sonnetg]

I am really confused on which route to take. On one hand, i would prefer a complete motor, CA3 and wheel setup from ebikes.ca, on the other hand, there are other options from high-performance racing ebike dealers selling MUXS and powerful 24+ FET controllers. The more I dig, the more confusing things get.

I emailed ebikes.ca, and they can build custom MC wheels if I can ship out the rims. Also, this bike probably wont see much abuse since I am not much into Mountain biking, but I would like it to go at least 35 mile per hour on the road. Getting 24" DH wheels and tires will could make this bike much lighter. One of the main reason I am taking this route is because of the strong swing arm, and a nice battery compartment. I was also contemplating on the em3ev frame kit, but it wont take much long to crack the plastic battery compartment on the bike, so either a Raptor or Flux kit would be great.

I would also like the motor to be as light as possible so I can take push it up the stairs to the 3rd floor storage room where I store all my other bikes. I am on a very minimal budget. My total budget around $4K. I have two other ebikes, which i use regularly. Both of these ebikes are setup to run at 36 volts. Since the Raptor will not be for everyday use, I could probably combine those batteries in series to get 72 volts and have fun with the raptor once in a blue moon. Eventually, if I find more use from the raptor, i can DIY a 72 volt pack easily. Building the Raptor and having it in collection will probably more fun, but i might find more practical use for it..who knows.

This will be a very time consuming project and very challenging...I am not even sure if I am up for it. But you can be sure, I will come out as a great bike mechanic after successfully completion of this project.

I had also emailed Ziva on an estimate, but haven't heard from him in two weeks. They must be very busy with sales or maybe on vacation...who knows.

Anyways, I now have two routes I can take:

Option 1: Keep it simple, and keep it Light: Go with Cyrstalyte HS35 series motor and 24" DH wheels. [will get 30 mile per hour max] [Bike should weigh no more than 80 lbs with a 72 volt 12A battery pack]
Option 2: High speed/Built for racing: Go with MXUS 4T with 19" x 1.4" MC Wheels. [Will get 45+ MPH, but the bike will weigh more than 100 lbs and 12A battery wont cut it. Will need to build custom battery pack from scratch]

Option 1 will definitely make my wallet happy and my back as well...but 30 mph is a bit meh!

 

[Mammalian04]

The big advantage of the Moto rims is using a big heavy ebike like a mountain bike without worrying about flats and busted spokes so much.

If you are just riding it on the road and want to keep it cheap, then just go the cheap route, and upgrade it with other parts as you go. It will cost more but at least you satisfy your budget now.

 

[sonnetg]

The big advantage of the Moto rims is using a big heavy ebike like a mountain bike without worrying about flats and busted spokes so much.

If you are just riding it on the road and want to keep it cheap, then just go the cheap route, and upgrade it with other parts as you go. It will cost more but at least you satisfy your budget now.

Yup...spokes are a big concern. As for flats, there are preventive measures you can take, but not sure if 13G or 14G spokes can candle more than 30 MPH, but I wont be jumping around with this bike for sure.

Much will be a lesson learned over time for sure. Will have to try and see what works, and what doesn't..and calculating the trade-offs.


Speaking of stunts, has anyone seen this video? Seem like a 20" wheel with bicycle spokes. Any idea what these rims are? Seems like these wheels can take a fair amout of abuse, considering the bike is loaded with SLA batteries...

[youtube]REeeYtp-8qE[/youtube]

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

looks like roadrash is selling his complete bike..
its pretty nice and in your price range.. may even deliver!
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=73111
that could definitely save you time, money, etc

I am really confused on which route to take. On one hand, i would prefer a complete motor, CA3 and wheel setup from ebikes.ca, on the other hand, there are other options from high-performance racing ebike dealers selling MUXS and powerful 24+ FET controllers. The more I dig, the more confusing things get.

I emailed ebikes.ca, and they can build custom MC wheels if I can ship out the rims. Also, this bike probably wont see much abuse since I am not much into Mountain biking, but I would like it to go at least 35 mile per hour on the road. Getting 24" DH wheels and tires will could make this bike much lighter. One of the main reason I am taking this route is because of the strong swing arm, and a nice battery compartment. I was also contemplating on the em3ev frame kit, but it wont take much long to crack the plastic battery compartment on the bike, so either a Raptor or Flux kit would be great.

I would also like the motor to be as light as possible so I can take push it up the stairs to the 3rd floor storage room where I store all my other bikes. I am on a very minimal budget. My total budget around $4K. I have two other ebikes, which i use regularly. Both of these ebikes are setup to run at 36 volts. Since the Raptor will not be for everyday use, I could probably combine those batteries in series to get 72 volts and have fun with the raptor once in a blue moon. Eventually, if I find more use from the raptor, i can DIY a 72 volt pack easily. Building the Raptor and having it in collection will probably more fun, but i might find more practical use for it..who knows.

This will be a very time consuming project and very challenging...I am not even sure if I am up for it. But you can be sure, I will come out as a great bike mechanic after successfully completion of this project.

I had also emailed Ziva on an estimate, but haven't heard from him in two weeks. They must be very busy with sales or maybe on vacation...who knows.

Anyways, I now have two routes I can take:

Option 1: Keep it simple, and keep it Light: Go with Cyrstalyte HS35 series motor and 24" DH wheels. [will get 30 mile per hour max] [Bike should weigh no more than 80 lbs with a 72 volt 12A battery pack]
Option 2: High speed/Built for racing: Go with MXUS 4T with 19" x 1.4" MC Wheels. [Will get 45+ MPH, but the bike will weigh more than 100 lbs and 12A battery wont cut it. Will need to build custom battery pack from scratch]

Option 1 will definitely make my wallet happy and my back as well...but 30 mph is a bit meh!

 

[BCTECH]

the max tire width i would recommend for dnm usd8 is ~3" measured..
such as shinko sr241 2.75 labeled tire actually measures ~3"+ wide..
dnm usd8 is ~89mm between the fork legs at the seals..
and you need a bit of clearance for safety, etc..

you can fit maybe a bit wider tire on a non usd fork such as fox, marzocchi etc..
but not much wider than 3" unless the fork is designed for plus size wheels, etc..

(if you prefer not to use derailleur/ chain tensioner then have you heard of flux beta concentric rear swing pivot??

I am not sure which seat to get, but it may be worth while to try both. If I didn't have to use derailleur, a motoseat would have been perfect. Given the frame design, I have to use a derailleur or chain tensioner. It's a kind of bummer, but the frame looks much nicer and sturdier than the stealth flux bike design. Maybe because of the bottom bracket location being on the frame rather than the swingarm itself. I will take my time to slowly build this. This is not going to be cheap project unlike my bike conversion projects, but definitely worthwhile.

By the way, any recommendation on wheels/rims? It seems 24" DH wheels are very difficult to find, but there are plenty of Moped or MC wheels available. I am a bit concerned about the front DNM USD-8 fork width. Would I be able to fit 3" tires in the DNM USD-8 fork? What is the max width of the tire the DNM USD-8 can take fit? Certainly not 4", can it? The MC or Moped tires are a bit misleading when it comes to measurements, especially after it's inflated. I prefer the looks of 17" moped wheels, but It may cause issues with the crankarm clearance. I would prefer the wheels to be as light as possible. I will have to store this bike during winter months, and carry this to the 3rd floor attic

I measured my usd8 last night, the fork guard to guard is 3.5in. I guess 3.5 tire will rub. you are correct 3in seems very safe.

 

[BCTECH]

Raptor frame is built with top quality, build quality is excellent. Qulbix designs and from what I read he builds and welds his own frames so quality control is there. I don't think anyone has complained about any issues.

Raptor frame is also a steel box frame like the stealth bikes. I believe vector is a tube frame. I heard a tube frame isn't as strong but it probably doesn't matter.

I still recommend a downhill bicycle rim on the front over a motorcycle rim, but I never tried the motorcycle rim. The problem with a motorcycle rim on the front is you have to go small which messes with geometry, and you add lots of weight where it isn't needed. Only problem is it is harder to get fromt tires in the 2.7 to 3.0" size. Like the duro razorback.

Maybe one day I'll lace up a 19" motorcycle rim and try it out to settle this issue once and for all.

Also the raptor comes with moto seat option which is huge advantage compare with other frames. i only aware raptor and fighter do that.

 

[sonnetg]

flux beta (not alpha), stealth bomber, and nyx all have concentric bottom bracket pivot..
that is not the same as fighter, or vector etc.. unified rear swing..

but any of these frames should be a nice ebike
keep us posted on the progress..

Efmx...the picture you posted seems to be right up my alley. Is is Flux or Stealth..lol? Looks like its much slimmer than Flux (aplha?) models I have see on the Group buy thread. Where can I find more info on this frame. The Raptor seems a bit too bulky now.

 

[sonnetg]

looks like roadrash is selling his complete bike..
its pretty nice and in your price range.. may even deliver!
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=73111
that could definitely save you time, money, etc

That is such a sweet deal...I can't imaging putting 100s of hours and selling it for so cheap. Unfortunate for roadrash, but great deal for buyers. Thanks for the link. Let me think about my options a bit. Building is challenging, but it's also part of the appeal..

 

[BCTECH]

flux beta (not alpha), stealth bomber, and nyx all have concentric bottom bracket pivot..
that is not the same as fighter, or vector etc.. unified rear swing..

but any of these frames should be a nice ebike
keep us posted on the progress..

Efmx...the picture you posted seems to be right up my alley. Is is Flux or Stealth..lol? Looks like its much slimmer than Flux (aplha?) models I have see on the Group buy thread. Where can I find more info on this frame. The Raptor seems a bit too bulky now.

that's the thread for the Beta frame
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=72160

 

[sonnetg]

that's the thread for the Beta frame
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=72160

OMG

The most beautiful frame I have ever seen! Must have...Must have!

Sorry dont mean to hijack the Raptor thread, but the Flux Beata frame seems perfect and sleek for those who doesn't require a huge battery capacity.

Thanks for the heads-up.

 

[Offroader]

Offroader,

if you run a bit smaller diameter front wheel such as 24" bike or 19" moto
then maybe you will stop bottoming your dnm usd8 fork on the front tire??
(or get a newer fork for plus size wheels)
you can adjust the head angle with headset choice (internal or external cups), rear shock length, wheel size, shock mount location, etc..
also,
your front tire hitting the fork crown can be a serious safety issue..
where is your lower fork crown bolted relative to the max line on the fork legs??
how much air pressure do you run in the lower fork leg pressure chamber??
how much is your suspension sag with bike and rider weight??
please measure the distance from the top of your front tire to the bottom of the lower fork crown..
this distance must be equal to at least the length of full suspension travel plus some margin for safety..
im sure your bike is not light weight with such power and range on board so you would likely need to stiffen up the suspension to help compensate for the added weight..

Yes it is possible if I run a 24" tire, but my preference is for the larger 26". Partly because I want to keep the bike higher up (bottom bracket higher) and also because 26" can roll better over stuff, most bike riders want 27.5" and even 29" now. I may even want to get a 26"x3" tire if duro ever gets around to doing their production run which they have been telling me for months they will. I see no reason to have to use a smaller wheel in the front because of a head tube that is too long.

I took some pictures to give you an idea of why I have no room. You can also see that I have adjusted my fork to almost the top, I will have to go over the top of the stanchions with the upper crown to get the clearance I need.

The travel on the fork is 8" and you can see that I don't have 8" with the ruller. The bike fork is not sagging down as I checked this before I took the picture.

But if you look closely at the pictures it makes sense just to cut down the head tube. Do you see any problem with doing that, the fork upper and lower crown easily clear the frame. Maybe you have a reason I don't see where I shouldn't cut down on the head tube.

 

[SlowCo]

Isn't it possible to get a lowering top crown for that front fork so the tubes can slide down a little further giving more room for the tire?