Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

[Hyena]

Christmas raptor: https://www.facebook.com/hyenaelectricbikes/photos/a.580950761992210.1073741828.580249262062360/737633196323965/?type=1&theater

Fat bikes to go with their existing phat bikes 8)

I usually see the USD-8 has white color at the bottom (the shock shied ? not sure what exactly they called that)

Yeah the guards are missing in this shot, I took them off to paint them black to match the frame. I'll post another shot when it's all finished. They look much better body coloured.

 

[Offroader]

Damn a fatbike! These guys really never fail to impress.

I would love a fatbike, and I know that qulbix will do it properly. Well, as long as they offer a motorcycle seat option.

Hyena, I just love that all black raptor with the red. I actually don't like black bikes that much, but that black bike has enough red in it to not make it look too black.

I think I may order an all black bike with orange stickers and make the motorcycle seat and controller cover orange.

Hyena, do you have any more pictures of that bike and is it the standard raptor black?

 

[Mammalian04]

Dang it! Now I will have to make more room in the garage!

 

[Offroader]

Maybe all you need is to buy a modified swingarm to fit your current 140.

I really like this fatbike idea. I mean, jeez, I have a 17" 3.00" fat tire on the rear of my bike already that I run at 14PSI and have been saying this is so much better than anything else I've ridden. So in a way my bike is kind of like a fatbike, at least in the rear.

I wonder what kind of forks you can use for the front. Seems like they are limited to 6" travel for fat bike forks.

They do sell 18" shinko 241 in 4". This may be the way to go for the rear instead of a bicycle fatbike rear tire.

 

[Mammalian04]

what happened to the fat bike link and picture?

 

[Hyena]

I dont speak with 100% authority on the matter but I'm pretty sure the 'fat bike' is the same 140 frame just bundled with wide front forks (+/- a wheel set and other components to make it a fat bike kit rather than just a frame kit). Possibly a wider swing arm too, though those of us running moto rims are already running what are essentially fat bikes. I'm about to start my next build with 19x1.85 wheels which isn't unheard of on the back but it's pretty fat for the front. I think this is the biggest you'll fit with standard forks.

Re: that black and red raptor, it was one I build for a customer, standard black but with red stickers and matching bolt ons. Similar to the old 160 colour scheme but anything other than plain black or white is now a custom paint job on the 140 and a such attracts a premium.

 

[Rix]

There is an industry push for fat bike frame and tires. I was in Reno at a bike shop on Tuesday, they had fat bikes with 170mm wide dropouts and 5 inch wide tires. 26MTB size. Talking with the owner/salesman, he said the new standard will be 192mm wide dropouts on the rear to accommodate a 11 speed cog set (Cluster Set)with 5+ inches wide tires. One of the bikes I test rode had 4.8" wide tire. Surprisingly, it rolled very well for as big as the rubber was. Tire prices are absurdly high at 139 a tire. I guess these bikes are very popular in the Alaskan wilderness as they have a longer snow season then non snow season.

 

[Offroader]

Rix,

What do you think about that 18" 4" shinko 241 tire. Do you think that is a good light weight option for a fat motorcycle tire?

I wish they made a 17" 4" tire or even a 16" 4" tire, as that would be about the same diameter as a 17" 3".

The 17" 3" shinko 241 tire makes a huge difference in the rear of the raptor like I said a million times already ,lol, I think part of it is being ale to run lower PSI safely and it cushions the heavy cromotor. When running the 19" shinko 241 at highter PSI I felt like hitting anything on the rear was going to break my cromotor.

Running the 17" 3", 241 fat tire with low PSI has made obstacles and offroad control much easier and much better.

I wonder if the 18" 4" shinko 241 would be even better, even with the added weight of the tire and possibly rim. But what is a few extra pounds in the rear when the wheel is already like 38lbs with the cromotor. Maybe the fatter tire will make up for the weight.

I guess you 19" guys will be able to buy the 19x3.5 shinko 241 tire.

 

[Rix]

Rix,

What do you think about that 18" 4" shinko 241 tire. Do you think that is a good light weight option for a fat motorcycle tire?

I wish they made a 17" 4" tire or even a 16" 4" tire, as that would be about the same diameter as a 17" 3".

The 17" 3" shinko 241 tire makes a huge difference in the rear of the raptor like I said a million times already ,lol, I think part of it is being ale to run lower PSI safely and it cushions the heavy cromotor. When running the 19" shinko 241 at highter PSI I felt like hitting anything on the rear was going to break my cromotor.

Running the 17" 3", 241 fat tire with low PSI has made obstacles and offroad control much easier and much better.

I wonder if the 18" 4" shinko 241 would be even better, even with the added weight of the tire and possibly rim. But what is a few extra pounds in the rear when the wheel is already like 38lbs with the cromotor. Maybe the fatter tire will make up for the weight.

I guess you 19" guys will be able to buy the 19x3.5 shinko 241 tire.

I had a 4.00-18 SR241 on my CRF 230. Bike is modded and puts out 24 hp. Stock is 17hp. I got rid of the tire because the 4.00-18 SR241 was to big and heavy and bogged the bike down, even in the lower gears performance sucked. I bet that tire weighed 13 pounds. I believe this tire would be too heavy for even the enertac 603 or 603 or Cromotor Mammoth.

 

[herbalizer404]

Hi Everyone,

Congrats for your excellent builds. I want to build my own now!! I have some questions for you, i want to build one with the new 140 raptor frame.

I don't want to ride faster than 50kmh but have the best possible torque and I'm wondering this:
- To keep a light setup, is that smart to take an geared drive like this one:
http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/conversion-kits/geared/ezee-rear-kit-basic-throttle.html
(To resume, 5:1 torque ratio, 3,1kg, 1250w under 48Vmax)
Is that enough with the weight of the frame (with a light battery package)?

- What is the best (not too heavy) direct drive motor in your opinion for this frame, with the highest torque and a 50/60kmh top speed?

Thanks a lot, and excuse my english.

 

[steam25]

hi guys.
is anybody from the qulbix raptor guys online here i can talk to about the bike?

 

[Hyena]

I can likely help you with anything you need to know.
What's your location ? Fill in the details in your profile so people can help you in general based on where you're located.

 

[GreenRoad]

Hello
The normal Qulbix Swingarm dropout: 165 mm

The eZee Rear Kit it think is 135mm.... please check this.
I know Qulbix could also make an smaller Swing, but please check if the motor fits into the swing..

 

[Qulbix]

Hello
The normal Qulbix Swingarm dropout: 165 mm

The eZee Rear Kit it think is 135mm.... please check this.
I know Qulbix could also make an smaller Swing, but please check if the motor fits into the swing..

Hi,
At Qulbix we can offer you Swingarm 165mm or 150mm, but please have a look at our web page for the electric motor compatibility.

More also available at:Tech Info

 

[GreenRoad]

oh sorry how could i forget.... i have an 150mm dropout...

 

[marcn]

Anyone know what these spacers are for? The inside diameter is too big to fit on the outside of the swingarm, since the washer and the bolt are too small to press it, and it doesn't look like it fits on the inside of the swingarm either.

 

[sk8norcal]

just saw this interview,
"founder of Qulbix, their head designer, Mitja Sorn"

http://www.ebikereviews.com.au/interviews/interview-ebike-celebrity-mitja-sorn/

 

[sonnetg]

Hello,

I am very interested in this awesome Qulbix kit since now they have the option with the DNM USD 8 shocks, but I was wondering if this shock would fit the Qulbix 140 frame out of the box? Or work the DNM USD-8 fork require further modifications to fit the Qulbix 140 frame, especially near the headtube area? I have some experience with putting together electric bikes and such, but I was wondering if I can assembly the Qulbix kit together by myself or if would need specials tools to fit it together.

I have searched the forum related to DNM USD-8 fork and assembly, but not a whole lot of threads on it. It seems the DNM forks would fit right out of the box. Has anyone had issues putting the kit together? Are there any pdf instructions for this? If so, please let me know where I can find information on installation.

Thanks so much. You guys are great. Some insanely beautiful work here.

Keep up the great work.

Cheers.

 

[Mammalian04]

I used Fox 40 on my Raptor but the USD-8 should be fine. I have a dual disk USD-8 (from forum member zombiess) that I'll be using on a Flux Alpha (from forum member Hyena).

Talk to Hyena about the Raptor vs. Flux. I think I might like the Raptor better (I am building 2 Raptors and don't have the Flux yet) for what I will be doing with it but the Flux does have some interesting advantages that I want to try out. I should have a better opinion of the 2 later in the year when they are all running. I'll be running my Flux with an Schlupf/ATS drive that I want to try (Raptor can have Schlumpf/ATS also but I didn't order mine that way). Hyena sells both and can drop ship the Raptor to you in Maryland (don't know if Flux is drop ship).

Special tools? Not any more than a regular bike. Standard garage tools will do it for all except the bottom bracket and pressing the headset in. You can buy the tools ($$$), make home made tools (eh...), or just pay a shop to do those two things that you will probably only do once in a blue moon.

If you take it to a shop, have then cut the USD-8 [strike]headtube[/strike] (I meant steer tube, not head tube) to the right length while you are there. They have better tube cutters. If you decide to cut the [strike]headtube[/strike] steer tube yourself, then just research the right height to cut because exactly flush is not the right height. I cut one of my [strike]headtube[/strike] steer tubes with a cheap home depot pipe cutter and it worked but I don't like the slightly unclean cut it made. Rather than buying a better pipe cutter, I'll just have the shop do it with their better cutter next time I need a headset pressed in.


If you have built eBikes before, you will be fine for assembly of the Raptor.
Regarding assembly instructions, there is an assembly manual that comes with the bike. For a preview, check out forum member Hyena's video on assembly. Qulbix also has a video about fitting a rear hub motor as well.

 

[sonnetg]

Thank you Mamalian. This is very helpful information. I have converted several regular bikes to ebikes with ease, but the raptor project will have to be done from scratch, so it may be a bit of challenge. I dont mind investing in tools, as long as I dont mess things up. My local bike shop isn't too big of a fan on working on ebikes...they refer my ebikes as "franken-bikes", but I know deep inside they wished they had one...lol.

I think cutting the headtube could a major challenge. Is this absolutely required? I was hoping Qulbix already had these fitted out of the box, but since this is user specific, one size may not fit all. I will ask my local Bike shop and ask if they would be willing to help or simply point me to the local scooter shop for ebike related stuff!


Also, do you know where I can find 24" inch laced wheel for the DNM fork? Getting the rear wheel in 24" is will be easy, but I dont know of any place where you can get one 24" wheel for downhill MTB..

Thanks once again. I will definitely check Hyena's video.

 

[efMX Trials Electric Freeride]

i think you guys mean the fork steerer tube .. not the frame head tube..
you do not need to cut the fork steerer tube.. you can just use more headset spacers instead..
unless you just want the bars/ stem low ..

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/star-fangled-nut-installation

..
I think cutting the headtube could a major challenge. Is this absolutely required? I was hoping Qulbix already had these fitted out of the box, but since this is user specific, one size may not fit all. I will ask my local Bike shop and ask if they would be willing to help or simply point me to the local scooter shop for ebike related stuff!

Also, do you know where I can find 24" inch laced wheel for the DNM fork? Getting the rear wheel in 24" is will be easy, but I dont know of any place where you can get one 24" wheel for downhill MTB..

Thanks once again. I will definitely check Hyena's video.

 

[sonnetg]

Thank you efMX. Excuse my jargon, but I have never completely assembled a bike from scratch, but I am willing to learn. You are correct. I meant the fork steerer tube, and not the headtube. As long as the fork steerer tube isn't poking out too high, it should be ok with me. I should be able to add few spacers, it should not problem.

Thank you so much for clearing this up and the helpful link. I am reviewing these now.

Sincerely,

 

[Offroader]

I just wanted to let you guys know that the raptor head tube is 150mm in length, which is very long.

The USD-8 fork will fit but if you have 26" tires at a size 2.7" or larger, like the duro razor backs you will rub the top of the tire against the fork because there is not enough adjustment.

This only happens on heavy bottom out, if you don't plan to beat the bike you may not notice it. If you do jumps at about 2.5 feet or higher and land hard on that front fork you will push the tire into the bottom crown. I've also fell into ditches that caused me to bottom out and the tire to rub.

I learned to live with this problem but am unhappy about it. I think most people just don't do high jumps or hit stuff hard enough to bottom out so they don't even notice it.

If you use a 24" tire you will be fine also.

My recommendation is to ask qulbix to chop off 10mm off the head tube, this can easily be done and would not hurt anything. I will have to have my head tube cut down to fit the fork properly.

If you need exact measurements on how much you need to cut I can let you know because I have a USD-8 on my raptor and will tell you how much clearance you need and what you can cut.

Again, not a big deal. Just when ordering the frame you tell qulbix that the 150mm headtube is too large. Which I already mentioned this to them before they even designed the 140 raptor. Tell them that you want them to cut it down to about 140mm and you will be good to go.

 

[Mammalian04]

Sorry for all of the confusion everyone. MY FAULT! Yes, I meant the steer tube on the USB-8, not the head tube. I'll fix my previous post so I don't confuse people who read later.

All that being said, I am glad Offroader jumped in because I completely forgot about his earlier post regarding the issues with using a USD-8.

 

[sonnetg]

I just wanted to let you guys know that the raptor head tube is 150mm in length, which is very long.

The USD-8 fork will fit but if you have 26" tires at a size 2.7" or larger, like the duro razor backs you will rub the top of the tire against the fork because there is not enough adjustment.

This only happens on heavy bottom out, if you don't plan to beat the bike you may not notice it. If you do jumps at about 2.5 feet or higher and land hard on that front fork you will push the tire into the bottom crown. I've also fell into ditches that caused me to bottom out and the tire to rub.

I learned to live with this problem but am unhappy about it. I think most people just don't do high jumps or hit stuff hard enough to bottom out so they don't even notice it.

If you use a 24" tire you will be fine also.

My recommendation is to ask qulbix to chop off 10mm off the head tube, this can easily be done and would not hurt anything. I will have to have my head tube cut down to fit the fork properly.

If you need exact measurements on how much you need to cut I can let you know because I have a USD-8 on my raptor and will tell you how much clearance you need and what you can cut.

Again, not a big deal. Just when ordering the frame you tell qulbix that the 150mm headtube is too large. Which I already mentioned this to them before they even designed the 140 raptor. Tell them that you want them to cut it down to about 140mm and you will be good to go.

Thanks Offroader. 1cm sounds perfect. But you mean chopping off the steer tube, and not headtube, correct?

I can definitely request Qulbix to adjust the steer tube so it sits flush, but 1cm really wont make that big of a difference or be an eyesore. Would you mind posting a picture of your Raptor? I assume, the fork is all stock and no modification has been done? I would like to see how the DNM USD-8 will look out of the box on the frame with spacers.

I dont really plan on doing anything crazy with the raptor, but definitely planning to go with 24" wheels. Any recommendations on 24" DH rims wide enough for 2.7" duro Razor Backs?


Thank you.