Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

Just tried fitting batteries in the frame. I am using 5s 4000mah cells. Can fit up to 42 packs. There is about an inch of clearance from the side for wiring and stuff.
This is alot more packs than i imagined to fit in frame. Potential 30s 28Ah or if i take away two packs 25s 32Ah battery. :D

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snellemin said:
Jesus!!! That's is some serious battery whatchamacallit. :shock:

I know. Disaster waiting to happen? And burning in the resulting LiPo fire $3,000 or so you just spent on your build?
 
Always a bit scary running so many LiPo and the associated multiplication of a possible failure.

The most I ever ran was 24S 4P made up of 16 6S 5ah packs. Managed to get full life out of them by following the key rules.

I personally would not be comfortable throwing the whole lot in there in one hit. My method is to accurately check the balance of all cells first (before first charge) and grade the packs from best balance to worst. I then series up the best packs into their series group in a 1P config. I then just run that section of pack in the bike for around 5 cycles checking the balance carefully during each charge. Once it has done passed this test, I put it aside and do the same with the next best series group.

If you find any of the packs have a poor starting balance, treat them with caution. Make a judgment on the pack after balancing it up. Hopefully all packs will be good but take no chances with suspect packs especially in such a large pack configuration. Just my 2 cents. :)
 
Figured out how to transport bike on rack without bending disc rotor. Use SEAT POST as anchor point. Evens load= no more bent disc brake.

Check out pic of finished raptor. EBikesSF built it. 72v, H40 crystallite hub motor, 26Ah battery. I have seen as efficient as 3+miles/Ah - 1mile/Ah depending on terrain. I have hit well over 40mph!! and felt like it could push 50. Awesome frame, super solid and compliments everywhere I go. Buy one and build it/have pro build it. Great bike
 
KeepMoving said:
Figured out how to transport bike on rack without bending disc rotor. Use SEAT POST as anchor point. Evens load= no more bent disc brake.

Check out pic of finished raptor. EBikesSF built it. 72v, H40 crystallite hub motor, 26Ah battery. I have seen as efficient as 3+miles/Ah - 1mile/Ah depending on terrain. I have hit well over 40mph!! and felt like it could push 50. Awesome frame, super solid and compliments everywhere I go. Buy one and build it/have pro build it. Great bike

Glad you solved the problem. Checked out the pic, your build came out great. Got any video coming in the future?

Kepler, thanks for the Lipo advise. I will follow the guide lines when I convert the Bomber to Lipo this winter.

Rick
 
carsonwen said:
Just tried fitting batteries in the frame. I am using 5s 4000mah cells. Can fit up to 42 packs. There is about an inch of clearance from the side for wiring and stuff.
This is alot more packs than i imagined to fit in frame. Potential 30s 28Ah or if i take away two packs 25s 32Ah battery. :D

View attachment 3


I like it, this is exactly where stealth bikes fails. You simply do not have the room to load up the batteries like this in a stealth frame. That is why I never considered the stealth bike worth it, it would not allow me to drive to where I off-road, off-road to I am tired, and then drive back home. More battery power just allows so much more freedom with an E-bike, plus allows you to drive the bike hard as hell and get a decent range.
 
QuestionMan said:
carsonwen said:
Just tried fitting batteries in the frame. I am using 5s 4000mah cells. Can fit up to 42 packs. There is about an inch of clearance from the side for wiring and stuff.
This is alot more packs than i imagined to fit in frame. Potential 30s 28Ah or if i take away two packs 25s 32Ah battery. :D
View attachment 3

I like it, this is exactly where stealth bikes fails. You simply do not have the room to load up the batteries like this in a stealth frame. That is why I never considered the stealth bike worth it, it would not allow me to drive to where I off-road, off-road to I am tired, and then drive back home. More battery power just allows so much more freedom with an E-bike, plus allows you to drive the bike hard as hell and get a decent range.

Qman, don't you think this is kind of a subjective comment to say that the Stealth Bikes fails in the battery compartment category? For some, such as myself, a smaller battery compartment is preferred. My subjective comment: "To me, if the Raptor frame was 130mm instead of 160mm wide with everything else staying the same, I would like that better, it would be narrower, and handle better in the trees". This is the only reason why I haven't bought one yet. Not starting an argument here, just pointing out that different people have different thoughts about what is ideal. My opinion varies from yours and others and that's okay. I like the fact that Torques bikes really listened to customer feed back and nailed it. I would not even dream of asking torques to modify their frame just for me and they can't make everyone happy. These bikes really build up beautiful though. If battery capacity is the number one goal, the Raptor is probably the best option on the market. Allow me clarify that this isn't a Raptor VS Phasor VS Greyborg Warp vs Bomber ebikes issue so I apologize for bringing up other bike manufactures. But the really neat things is, Just a couple of years ago, there were no frame manufactures out there to choose from. Now there are choices. If the builder wants a really narrow frame, got the Phasor Frame option, if the builder wants a wide frame with lots of battery space and, got the Raptor Frame option, if the builder wants a tubular cromoly frame for an ebike build, got the Warp frame option, if the builder wants the most durable read to ride/plug-n-play option, got the Stealth Bikes. My 2c.

Rick
 
Rix, yes you are correct it really depends on preference. Should have pointed that out.

For me the stealth bikes just lacks the capacity for the battery capacity that I would need. I find that I can never have enough battery capacity and with more capacity it really opens up my options. But again this is all dependent on what you are doing as if you really do not need the range then you don't really need the extra capacity. I personally like to drive places to off-road the bike and drive home. Even longer trips where I am not off-roading I like to be able to motorcycle the bike at high speeds to get there and that burns trough batteries.

\\I would think that many stealth owners would prefer more battery capacity if they had the room. The weight is really a non-issue as the bike is too heavy to lift over anything anyway and really too heavy to pedal, so 20 to 25lbs more batteries gives you so much added benefit for the only drawback of just a little more weight in an already heavy bike. Assuming the bike frame does not get too large.
 
only drawback of just a little more weight in an already heavy bike. Assuming the bike frame does not get too large.
Qman, you just iterated my point. One thing I like about my dads Lipo powered DH bike is it feels so flickable to me because the top frame tube is only 35mm wide. So narrow. My bomber is about 125mm wide on the outside and I like the way it handles. Its easy to flog compared to dirtbikes. Talking to guys that have ridden the Bomber and Phasor, they tell me the Phasor feels faster steering and the Bomber feels more stable straight. Being that the geometry on these two machines are close.ie.. wheel base is almost identical and the head tube angles are almost identical degrees, the consensus is the Phasor frame feels quicker at steering because its narrower. Of course I have never rode a Phasor or a Raptor for that matter so I don't know how much of a difference it really is. I do know that on dirtbikes, a 1.9 gallon motocross tanks handles and flogs way way better than a 3.4 gallon Acerbis, Clark or IMS desert tanks. Part of the reason is the increased in weight up high with more fuel capacity in desert tanks, the other part is the wide desert tanks pushes my poster part at the knees when seated and turning in tight stuff. Even with just 1 gallon of gas in the desert tank, it feels slower handling than the 1.9 gallon moto tanks when full. But like desert bike with bigger tanks, with ebikes, want more range, need a bigger battery, ie bigger battery compartment. More weight and wider frame= slower handling. Less battery and narrower frame= quicker handling but less range. Damn it, I want it all, 100 mile range, flick-ability of a 45 pound DH bike, toughness of a dirt bike. Not asking much :?: :arrow: :|

Rick
 
have in mind that the rear tire disappear in a day, because of the weight of the rear wheel!
 
Efuel, got a rolling chassis I see, all white looks great. Manitous dorados are an awesome fork Yes that rear tire with Cromo on the Raptor will probably disintegrate quickly running north of 5KW. But still, will look cool doing it :twisted:

Rick
 
E-Fuel, Utterly gorgeous!

Can't wait to see it finished.

Kudos
 
I always wanted to build a Torque Raptor eBike into a BMW g450x look-a-like with pedals.
Blue Fox rear springs, white/silver carbon fiber panels, silver wheel rims and some sort of a blue graphics.
 
skubadu said:
I always wanted to build a Torque Raptor eBike into a BMW g450x look-a-like with pedals.
Blue Fox rear springs, white/silver carbon fiber panels, silver wheel rims and some sort of a blue graphics.

I remember the first year the G450 came out. A look-a-like could be done with Raptor. Instead of a BMX emblem, it would be TRB aka Torques Raptor Bike.
 
Thanks E-Fuel Looks awesome! I have been wondering how it looked in that scheme of white. Wish you can post a pic with panels on. :roll: :D
 
Anyone can help me to get a tire for the back wheel? Something for dirt and road that last longer. The 24 lb of the back wheel will distroy any bicycle tire very quick. :(
 
E-Fuel said:
Anyone can help me to get a tire for the back wheel? Something for dirt and road that last longer. The 24 lb of the back wheel will distroy any bicycle tire very quick. :(

I have researched this as my current bike will eat away any knobby tire on the rear and it seems the only way to go is with a motocross/dirtbike tire. Any bicycle knobby will wear way too quickly.

If you go with a bicycle street tire it will be dangerous to use it offroad. You really need a knobby off-road or you will lose traction too easily and fall off the bike. I learned from experience.

Supposedly Shinko 241 tire 19x2.75 and 19x1.4 prowheel will work best.
 
QuestionMan said:
E-Fuel said:
Anyone can help me to get a tire for the back wheel? Something for dirt and road that last longer. The 24 lb of the back wheel will distroy any bicycle tire very quick. :(

I have researched this as my current bike will eat away any knobby tire on the rear and it seems the only way to go is with a motocross/dirtbike tire. Any bicycle knobby will wear way too quickly.

If you go with a bicycle street tire it will be dangerous to use it offroad. You really need a knobby off-road or you will lose traction too easily and fall off the bike. I learned from experience.

Supposedly Shinko 241 tire 19x2.75 and 19x1.4 prowheel will work best.

Qman, this would be my recommendation for e fuel as well. With the cromotor, spoke lengths for any spoke between 11-8 guage spoke would be about 133mm for the Prowheel racing Yamaha Playbike rim 19x1.4 with 36 hole drill.

Rick
 
Rix that rim will be the same size as 24" that I have at the moment ?...I would like to keep the front wheel.
 
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