Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit

[marcn]

I think it may be time for the 140mm frame for you? I understand what you mean now. You're inner thighs rub when you're standing on the pedals.

 

[Offroader]

Some Additional Infos for 165mm Frameset.
When you are going with a 267mm Rear Shock and theres a need for above 400lbs Springrate AND
you want to use the First Hole on Shock Mount(Because of Seat height):
It wouldnt fit. Theres not enough space for a 450er Spring.

Merlin, I think I noticed that problem also. When using a 450lbs spring the top of spring will hit the bottom of the shock mount. I needed a 400lbs spring so it wasn't an issue.

I figure you can just grind off the bottom hole of the shock mount as you're never going to use it anyway with a 267mm rear shock.

 

[marcn]

You can see from Snells photo how close the spring sits to the bottom mount. The other option is to increase the preload, which isn't preferred if your sag settings are right.

Merlin/Offloader, thought I knew what you meant. I'm using a 450lbs spring. What shock are you running? The only difference between a 450lbs and a 400lbs spring is the spring rate? How would a 400lbs spring make a difference if it's already touching prior to any preload or sag?

 

[Offroader]

The 450 lbs spring on my Fox DHX Rc4 is longer than the 400.

However, the 400 is similar in size to the 350.

You could preload the spring more but the instructions made it a point not to preload more than like 3 turns.

 

[Rix]

The 450 lbs spring on my Fox DHX Rc4 is longer than the 400.

However, the 400 is similar in size to the 350.

You could preload the spring more but the instructions made it a point not to preload more than like 3 turns.

Cant find it, but did you say you vented your Cromo and it ran cooler? If so, can you post a close up of your vented hub?

 

[Offroader]

That was Merlin who did that, I was actually thinking of also asking him to show some pictures.

 

[Rix]

That was Merlin who did that, I was actually thinking of also asking him to show some pictures.

My bad, thanks for setting me straight.

Merlin and you show us some pics of your venting? I know its a very simple thing, I have vented all of my motors. I am trying to determine whats optimal for venting. As I learned and said before, venting works for 2 simple reasons, first, air flows by the stator picking up the heat, but secondly and more importantly, the vent holes allow the heat to escape when stationary. For this reason, I am trying to determine wha the minimum size of holes and drill is productive for cooling. On my 5403, I have 8 holes drilled on both sides, one side towards the outer edge, the other side towards the center. On my, now pops 5404, I drilled 8 towards the outer edge on one side, and 4 towards the center on the other, and last night, I vented my 4080. 4 20mm holes on the outside of the drive side, and 2 20mm holes towards the center on the other side. The verdict is not in yet, but so far, as long as I keep moving, this minimal amount of holes seems to make a difference.

Rick

 

[Qulbix]

Hi guys,
As you have already noticed we have launched a new version of Raptor. Our goal was to keep what worked with the old Raptor, and to change what could be improved. Now, with Raptor 140 you have two different, specific options:

(A) a devoted moto version (with 140-160mm wide moto seat, foot pegs) best suited for tracks, dirt trails etc. It was designed for those who prefer MX/super moto riding style, since different cornering is now possible due to fixed foot peg position.

(B) an optimized bicycle version, enabled by the lighter, narrower frame, and optimized bicycle subframe for all of you who prefer maintaining bicycle properties, thus being able to achieve max. range and getting a workout in the process.

You can also choose something in between the two, or change options as you go along.

Again, I would like to thank all of you for your reviews, suggestions and comments, as we have taken them to heart and will make sure to keep improving and evolving. We still need to update some info on our website, but here's what you can already find there:

New drawings on electric motor compatibility:


New Raptor's battery box dimensions:


New (Kelly and standard) shield dimensions:


Tnx,
Ziva, Qulbix

 

[Merlin]

That was Merlin who did that, I was actually thinking of also asking him to show some pictures.

i vented my 4080. Not a Cro.

 

[Merlin]

Some Infos about the SCHLUMPF HIGH SPEED DRIVE

(140 Qulbix Topic)

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=60903&p=915315#p915339

 

[Rix]

Thanks for posting the pic Merlin, some very aggressive venting. Not surprised at all how much cooler your motor runs.

Rick

 

[Offroader]

I have a lot of people ask what I am riding, I usually tell them the best way to classify it is an "electric dirtbike". Would you agree that is the best way to classify this bike?

 

[snellemin]

I just say "New Age BMX".

 

[Rix]

I have a lot of people ask what I am riding, I usually tell them the best way to classify it is an "electric dirtbike". Would you agree that is the best way to classify this bike?

I just say "E bicycle". I know its just semantics, but my rational is if a 2 wheel machine can be pedaled under human power only, even if it has a motor and battery, or gas motor, its a bicycle. When the power is on, its a motorized bicycle. Some of the places I ride are not open to dirtbikes, offroad vehicles, whatever. When I encounter someone, I tell them its an "E bicycle" and play down the machine as much as possible. The biggest allure for me having an Ebike is its quietness and riding areas that are restricted to MTBs, hikers, and horsey people (aka Equestrians) When I hear electric dirt bike, I think of Zero, Quantya with their hi powered machines. All of that being said, you are not wrong for calling your machine and "electric dirtbike" either.

 

[Mammalian04]

I posted this question in the LightningRods kit thread but you guys are probably some better suited to answer head. Can anyone suggest a rear hub to fit the 165mm drop out on the Raptor?

I wanted a blue hub to match my guards, seat, and a Hope Pro 2 Evo Front Hub but it seems the widest Hope sells is 142mm. Thoughts? (PS, I haven't bought the Hope front hub yet.)

 

[bikerloosey]

Its awesome what you have done. You have been moving so fast on your designs.

Hi guys,
As you have already noticed we have launched a new version of Raptor. Our goal was to keep what worked with the old Raptor, and to change what could be improved. Now, with Raptor 140 you have two different, specific options:

(A) a devoted moto version (with 140-160mm wide moto seat, foot pegs) best suited for tracks, dirt trails etc. It was designed for those who prefer MX/super moto riding style, since different cornering is now possible due to fixed foot peg position.

(B) an optimized bicycle version, enabled by the lighter, narrower frame, and optimized bicycle subframe for all of you who prefer maintaining bicycle properties, thus being able to achieve max. range and getting a workout in the process.

You can also choose something in between the two, or change options as you go along.

Again, I would like to thank all of you for your reviews, suggestions and comments, as we have taken them to heart and will make sure to keep improving and evolving. We still need to update some info on our website, but here's what you can already find there:

New drawings on electric motor compatibility:


New Raptor's battery box dimensions:


New (Kelly and standard) shield dimensions:


Tnx,
Ziva, Qulbix

 

[Rix]

I posted this question in the LightningRods kit thread but you guys are probably some better suited to answer head. Can anyone suggest a rear hub to fit the 165mm drop out on the Raptor?

I wanted a blue hub to match my guards, seat, and a Hope Pro 2 Evo Front Hub but it seems the widest Hope sells is 142mm. Thoughts? (PS, I haven't bought the Hope front hub yet.)

I Don't know of any bicycle manufacture that makes a 165mm rear hub and cassette assembly. I know Seismic hubs made a 150mm rear hub for custom extreme riders such as Josh Bender back in the day, but I can't find them anywhere. See photo. I think back in the day it was either Fisher or Trek had a 150mm in house hub as well, but not sure, I think you will be limited to 142mm offerings with 12mm axles.

Rick

 

[Mammalian04]

I think back in the day it was either Fisher or Trek had a 150mm in house hub as well, but not sure, I think you will be limited to 142mm offerings with 12mm axles.

Thanks once again Rix. You are a walking wikipedia... except you have the answers I am looking for.

Does the hub size really matter or should I REALLY be looking for an any size hub I want and THEN an axle that is wide enough with just spacers to fill in the hub to dropout gap?

 

[Rix]

I think back in the day it was either Fisher or Trek had a 150mm in house hub as well, but not sure, I think you will be limited to 142mm offerings with 12mm axles.

Thanks once again Rix. You are a walking wikipedia... expect you have the answers I am looking for.

Does the hub size really matter or should I REALLY be looking for an any size hub I want and THEN an axle that is wide enough with just spacers to fill in the hub to dropout gap?

Thanks for the kind words, but got to say, I don't have any experience with the 12mm through axle on 142mm drive train. I suppose a guy could get a 142mm hub and have a custom longer 12mm axle made for it and use spacers for centering the hub and moving the disk rotor over for caliper alignment. Then as far as the cassette goes on the drive side, (cluster gears), I don't know what a guy would do for that. If it was a multispeed free wheel, a 4mm spacer between the free wheel and hub flange would take care of alignment, provided the 142mm hub was centered in the 150mm dropouts. Please take what I am saying with a grain of salt here, I just don't have any actual experience with a 142mm wide hub on a 12mm through axle. My last geared MTB, a 2010 Specialized enduro was came with 135mm wide 10mm quick release hubs. And my last single speed MTB which Hyena and I built up for the Yosemite trip last summer had a Phil Wood Le Kiss single speed MTB hub that was 135mm wide, which was replaced with his Neutron kit MAC10 geared motor. Anyway on Pendragon's 6kw monster mongoose build, he posted a couple of H35xx axles made my ES guy Tench. From the pics, those axles are pure beauties. Not speaking for Tench, but if you had a 12mm through axle for a 142mm hub, he would be able to make one longer and make it compatible for the Raptors 10mm dropouts as the 12mm wouldn't fit into the slot. Lots of food for thought amigo. :|

 

[Samd]

I just say "New Age BMX".

Lol.

 

[Hyena]

This is what we called a new age BMX when I was a kid

Re: the 142mm dropout, I'd order the 150mm swing arm and make a 4mm spacer to sit in your dropout on either side - sorted.

 

[E-Fuel]

I miss my bike!

 

[Offroader]

I hear you, my cromotor stator is rubbing the magnets, I must have bent something in the motor and am trying to find out what the problem is. I've been without a bike for a week and a half already.

 

[marcn]

That sucks offloader. Wonder how that happened. Are you trying to repair it yourself?

I miss my bike!

I miss your bike too haha! It sure was a looker!

 

[jerrydubois3]

Re: Qulbix, was Torque Raptor ebike + frame kit

by E-Fuel » Wed Jul 16, 2014 6:26 pm

I miss my bike! quote][/quote][/color]
Your bike inspired me to build mine!