RC Drive Idea using 9sp cassette or 8 spd SA.

mwkeefer

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Hello all,

This may not be feasable but, couldn't a normal rear wheel with a 9sp cassette be rebuilt with the largest sprocket being driven from a small reduction unit output?

If this is not possible, I know it is possible to left drive via 2 different sprockets for a 3spd internal geared hub but to acheive the efficiency I am looking for having 8 internal gears in the rear for pedaling and/or motor provides from 25:1 to 1:1 reductions... this would be optimal.

I don't plan on allowing more than 70% of a maximum 2100w of power to be applied on startup for x seconds then it will apply full throttle/amps/power.

Any ideas or suggestions?

-Mike
 
mwkeefer said:
Hello all,

This may not be feasable but, couldn't a normal rear wheel with a 9sp cassette be rebuilt with the largest sprocket being driven from a small reduction unit output?
Any ideas or suggestions?

-Mike

my thoughts:

*There is no Isolation between The rear cogs; so when you pedal, the motor chain would have to move; and when the motor turns, the leg power chain has to move. Motor clutches are not a big problem but crankset clutches have been a bit of an issue.

*You also have a problem anytime you want to pump that much motor power thru a 9 speed chain.

*I have an issue with the functional purpose of chain drive thru a fixed ratio system; why bother-- usually just use an appropriate hub motor. You can get 8 speed spin on cogs.


* why not get a disc brake mount hub and put a 56 tooth chainweel on the left side, giving more step down the 34 tooth max on the right side? use a single speed chain for better reliability? and I think you get to use the hub freewheel isolation?

there might be some errors in my thoughts, but that is my initial reactions.

d
 
Mike,
If I understand correctly, Then a freewheeling crank would be required to isolate the drives from each other.
It seems a few of us are addressing this issue at the same time.

Luke has a break out thread on casett+freewheels. I Spent a lot of time last weekend looking at the Sturmey/archer SX-3.(still need a freewheel for the motor but yes, suitably geared it has potential)

I striped an internal Shimano 3-speed this weekend to customize the sprocket mount & add a bmx freewheel. A weld here, some lathe there & Yatzee! That will get me f/w pedals, 3 speeds, & a f/w motor. (waiting for some stock for the 2-speed trany rebuild this week 8) it will be as stealth as any belt-chain system)

I also re-drew a standard hub to allow twin freewheels & promtly abandoned it for Garry's sprocket-freewheel threaded adapter.(the closest unit to a turnkey solution IMHO, since most of the cheapo bikes in the world are sold at walmarts & I am not convinced the majority of E-bikers need that wide a gear range on the pedals) duel chains on the right side has been an issue on my bmx prototye build. I speculate that on 135mm spacing there is ample room for parallel drives.
 
Everyone,

Thanks for the input... I think perhaps I was not clear enough about my intended designs so I will elaborate on my requirements, intentions and plans (as of now):

For the initial build I had planned (if it will fit with the 8spd) to use Gary's Sprocket freewheel threaded adapter to acheive a dual freewheel in the rear at the drive side (right side). The pedal link would be normal #35 bike chain to a normal single speed 40-50t (stock on the 9FS) sprocket. That will provide the mechanics of the pedaling interface. The only possible problem I see here is with the fit of Gary's sprocket adapter to the 8sp SA.

The drive sprocket attached to Gary's adapter (or one similar) would be a 92t (largest extron sprocket I can find) #219. The motor would be plate mounted and partially enclosed in abs plastic for protection from the elements.

The drive sprocket would be roughly 9-13t which would combine with the front for a first stage reduction of between - 10.22:1 and 7.08:1.

[Current Motor]
Tower Pro 5330 9T has a normal kV of 235 in it's default Wye mode termination. When you bring out the Delta Phase wires (for a total of 6 phase wires) and power it in the Delta mode, the torque goes up.. the current consumption go down and the kv drops by (235 / 1.73) = 135.838 or for future calculations we will use 135.8. This is no load kv.

Idle Current: 1.3 A
Weight: 679g / 1.5lb
Dimensions: 63mmx105mm
Shaft Diameter: 8mm
Max Rated Power: 2900w or 3.8667 hp
Delta no-load kV: 135.8
Delta max efficient current: 33 A
Delta maximum loaded current (@60s) 46.25 A
Delta max no load rpm (@42v) 5,703.6 @ 100% efficiency
4,562.88 @ 80% expected efficiency
Wye no load kV: 235
Wye max efficiency current 57 A
Wye max loaded current (@60S) 80 A
Wye max no load rpm (@42v) 9,870 @ 100% efficiency
7,896 @ 80% expected efficiency


[Option #1]
Parallel RC Drive (dual right side) with 8 spd SA internal hub. Using one of Gary's adapters to run dual rear freewheels and drive sprockets.
FET based Delta/Wye Switching (Instant)
Front crank sprocket would be 40-50t (stock most likely one either the 9FS or the specialized), rear pedal sprocket would be 14t - standard #35 (maybe thinner like on the 9 spds).

Motor will be mounted either to the rear trailing arm on the 9FS (for constant chain length) or most likely below the dropout (where a kickstand should be) on the Specialized.

The output sprocket from the motor would be 8mm bore (or adapted) #219 and varying from 9t-11t depending on desired speeds and evaluation.

For this example we will use:
Parallel Drive configured -
14t rear #35 sprocket for pedal drive
42t stock front crank sprocket #35
11t #219 pitch 8MM drive sprocket on motor output shaft
92t Extron #219 sprocket mounted to gary's dual freewheel adapter

Primary Reduction: 8.36:1

Since the gear range on the 8spd internal hubs range from 1:1 down to 3.05:1 that would provide the following results (top effective speeds).

Secondary Reduction: 3.05:1 To 1:1

20" Bike (9FS)
SA8 Gear Mode Motor RPM 1st Stage Reduction SA8 Reduction Total Reduction Expected RPM and top speed Top Speed
8 Delta 4562.88 8.36:1 3.05:1 25.498:1 4562.88 / 25.498 = 178.9505 10.652 mph
178.9505 / 336 = 0.5326
0.5326 * 20 = 10.652 mph
1 Delta 4562.88 8.36:1 1:1 8.36:1 4562.88 / 8.36 = 545.799 32.488 mph
545.799 / 336 = 1.6244
1.6244 * 20 = 32.488 mph
8 Wye 7896 8.36:1 3.05:1 25.498:1 7896 / 25.498 = 309.6713 18.432 mph
309.6713 / 336 = 0.9216
0.9216 * 20 = 18.432 mph
1 Wye 7896 8.36:1 1:1 8.36:1 7896 / 8.36 = 944.4976 56.22 mph
944.4976 / 336 = 2.811
2.811 * 20 = 56.22 mph

As you can see in the above table, having a dual winding on the motor allows for efficient operation at full charge in the 10mph range (useable for pedestrian navigation)… this does concern me a bit as I would rather see the Top Delta speed and lowest Wye speeds overlap or even better have a 10mph top speed difference (8th in Wye should be 42mph) which would allow for a much wider range and smother use of conversion between wye and delta.

So this should explain better how and what I am trying to do, it is much like Gary's build and many others except I plan to use the Delta/Wye switching to reduce the KV and the requirement for a true initial reduction unit (hopefully) this means the parts required for this build are:

Part # Qty Description Source Price Weight
1 Gary's Dual Freewheel Large Sprocket Adapter for SA internal hub Gary $ 25.00 ?
1 Tower Pro 5330 9T Hobby King $ 49.99 679g / 1.49693876 lb.
1 92t Extron Composite Lightweight #219 rear drive sprocket (attached to Gary's adapter) Comet Kart Sales $ 14.50 ?
1 11t 8mm drive sprocket #219 $ 15.00 ?
1 Aluminum 2"x2"x24" (source material) to build motor mount Home Depot $ 7.99 .6lb
1 #219 chain $ 25.00 1 lb
1 SA 8spd internal $ 179.99 3 lb
2 Freewheels? Type, will normal type suffice for starters to be upgraded to ENO style ? $20.00 (for normal freewheels) .4 lb
$ 337.47 6.5 lbs (without parts 1,3,4 counted)

Just found this while looking for 8mm 11t #219 drive sprockets:
http://www.thescooterguy.org/whats_new.html
This is an 8mm chain, drive sprocket and freewheeling rear sprocket that looks thread on with an outter (pedal) sprocket (seems up to 76t) and an inner bike style sprocket. $125 from this place… never heard of it but will check it out for my (our) applications.

Wow, today is the day for discovery… again looking for the #219 drive sprocket (11t) I found this and at $24.00, I bought one just for the drive sprocket (the motor will be fun to play with I'm sure): http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-636/36VDC-450W-MOTOR-11T-SPROCKET/1.html a 36v 450w motor with 8mm 11t drive gear intended for an iZip or something. Nice find, but I will likely want the drive sprocket on that one (for another project) but at least now I know the 450w iZip used an 8mm shaft and 11t sprocket which is priceless (and was free) since the parts (aftermarket bearing upgrade kits, sprockets, etc) should all be highly available and cheap!!!! Now I know what to search for.

A few bits I haven't discussed… Since the motor (in wye, the highest current consumption mode) can only handle 80A maximum and I plan to run it at 70A peak @ 60s maximum @ maximum of 42v, I decided to equip it with Hall sensors and for initial build and testing use an Infineon 9FET (shunt calibrated, reprogrammed but not upgraded) since it should handle the nominal 57A fine with the soldered down shunt at 42v max. I will work away from this as time permits but it's a quick, cheap and reproducible solution that should be under 50.00 for the common man as opposed to the HV110 for 200+.

One final note of research info… While attempting to replicate the bedini type motor (google it) I had an idea about handling the back emf (since I won't need it for detecting zero crossing due to halls) and tested it on the bench (in the crudest fashion)

Using a very tiny motor (max 100w, 2-3 lipo) and home made testing ESC I spun the motor (with a tiny prop attached for some load, indoors so no ambient winds) to max rpm at the voltage then cut the power. I had mounted the prop with a tiny neod… magnet and rigged a hall sensor to record RPM of the prop (headspeed). My measurements were from removal of power to stopping of the prop. I then changed the programming in the controller and added a few fets to the prototype board and basically created a phase inverter that feeds the current coming from back emf into a positive forward pulse into the next winding. This is only at 0 throttle and isn't at this time (I don't think) compatible with regen but… in my tests, when the controller was in this mode (and consuming no more than resting current) with 0 throttle the freaking motor spun a total of 2.3x as long.

This is not reproduced yet and is not scalable (with my current work) to a large scale eBike / HV controller (at least not for the near future)…. Additionally I want to test this against a traditional freewheel style rear hub of a low, mid and high end bike. If my initial findings are correct, this method consumes no more power than normal non-throttle operation would (and also requires no dissipation of the power via the controller), requires nothing more than a few additional fets and some logic in the controller and yet seems at this moment to allow NON-FREEWHEEL freewheeling.

For the skeptics… again I haven't reproduced this in useable scale and I haven't finished the comparisons under low power no load conditions however it does seem this will reduce the drag a non freewheel motor configuration will have upon pedaling. Before people start in about entropy and thermodynamics or conversion… this is not perpetual motion, rather it is the use of the already present back EMF generated by the stator in motion (the same back emf used for regen if you doubt it's existence) simply redirected back into the next phase coil of the motor in a semi "passive" manor (no power from batteries to return to motor).

Since no motor/drive train is 100% efficient this is subject to the inverse efficiency effect of the output drive line or more specifically if 80% of motor power is delivered to the actual wheel then only 80% of the power can be expected (actually more like 75% but… entropy and I haven't done the calculations plus inertia and gravity will help with this effect also).

This small charge pulse would slowly fade away after just a few electrical rpm (I think, haven't measured) due to the natural conversion losses but … it seems to me a much more efficient use of "freewheeling" than to use regen braking (though the two are not mutually exclusive).

While normally when we (the members) post design information and say this is to be considered proof of my thought and working process for the purpose of patent they are kidding… I am not.

While anyone is free to implement, test, use this for personal purposes… I have filed notice of intent to file patent (think pre-patent but guaranteed timestamp) and even commercial use and production rights will be free of charge but those will be subject to quality requirements to be compliant with the patent to ensure knock offs bring down the price (mass production) but the quality doesn't drop with them. My interest is far more in the EV community and to benefit the EV community than to cash in.

I will post further info about the status of this 9FS to RC build as determinations are made.

-Mike
 
Quick decision update:

Since I have a #219 11t sprocket from another application but designed to be clamp mounted (10mm bore with keyway) I have decided while waiting for the right part I will just use my heavy duty aircraft aluminum quality prop adapter along with some friction discs made from fiber cutting pads to act as a form of slipper clutch which will allow some give to the sprocket if too much torque is requested of it.

This may be a totally lame idea and fail miserably (will try other materials first before giving up if it does fail) but if successful the parts are available for 15.00 including the friction pads and would be a quick and simple solution to the drive sprocket almost regardless of motor shaft size since prop adapters are available for nearly all sizes?

-Mike
 
Mike,

You can't use Gary's adapter to get two independent freewheels onto a geared hub, I'm afraid... You still need a freewheel on the motor shaft. Maybe that's what you mean?

It's a pity that all the ratios on the SA 8 speed are overdriven, it increases the total reduction needed for the motor.


Not sure I understand the last bit.

If you want freewheeling without mechanical intervention, you can always use an ironless motor.
 
Mike, there's one other problem I think. It is the wye mode that has the lower kV, not the other way around. If your motor has a kV of 235 in the wye mode, switching it to delta will cause the kV to go up by a factor of 1.73, so it will be 407 rpm/volt, not 135.

-- Gary
 
Yes, it is strange that the SA 8-speed hub starts out in 1st with a 1:1 reduction. The Nexus/Alfine 8-speeds start at .527: in 1st and don't hit 1:1 until 5th gear. My adapter won't fit on these hubs, though, because the shifting mechanism is in the way. No sure about the SA-8 hub, though.

The real advantage of using multi-speed hub is you can take advantage of this "extra" reduction to eliminate a reduction from the motor drive setup and drive the hub directly. If you aren't going to get a reduction from the hub, You will probably need something like Matt's drive to be able to get sufficient low-end torque.

A couple other notes. Regular bicycle chain is the same pitch (1/2") as #40 chain, not #35, which has a pitch of 3/8". Also, #219, which has a pitch of .306", is not the same as 8mm.

-- Gary
 
GGoodrum said:
Yes, it is strange that the SA 8-speed hub starts out in 1st with a 1:1 reduction.

It makes more sense for the pedal transmission, where the gearing is for speed, not torque - especially for bikes with smaller wheels, as it's often difficult to get a big enough ratio without a very large chainring.
 
8 speed sturmeys with the disc brake option would be perfect for a left side drive for $150 vs. $250 for the Alfine.
If you gear it so that pedals top out at your desired speed....then you can have the electric
drive take over from there with a bit of overlap.

I was seriously considering one, but the cost of a smaller set of chain rings didn't offset
the increased cost of the 8 speed Alfine.

I checked in on Safe several months ago. He had problems putting power through the 8 speed SA. I don't what broke.
But he broke it with relatively low levels of power ~1kW.
 
Hello all,

First - my appologies, I've been backwards quoting Delta vs Wye all over ES like a damn newbie idiot. In default mode the Tower Pro is terminated for Delta and has a kV of 235 in Wye mode there is a reduction in kV of 1.73 so 235 / 1.73 = 135.83815028901734104046242774566 in Wye mode.

I will correct my previous postings when I finish my current round of bench testing and have results and measurements for idle current, max efficiency range, etc.

-Mike
 
Update:

I have decided to take the path most traveled with this build... I have one of Gary's FW adapters and a 20" SA3. I am making the adapter for a #219 rear 92t sprocket (extron) and have ordered (but still waiting for) 8mm to 10mm id bore adapter which I will simply drill through on the press to make room for the set screws.

Im unsure if I need to thread the bore adapter set screw holes, matching the threads to the ones in my drive sprockets (I have 3 to choose from 9t, 11t and 14t).

So the first build will just be a three speed RC....

That said, all the extremely informative posts you guys have made here have given me a new idea but its purely conceptual at this time...

The idea starts with... why not just use a second SA3 for a shiftable power transmission and output to the rear via left side drive. This would provide a small multiplier on initial reduction, 1:1 and then a slight overdrive for better top end. If I can link the shifting of 2 SA3 then I can have a single shifter (3spd) which will shift both the pedals and the motor drive train. I haven't spent much time thinking on this idea but seems to me a simple transmission/jackshaft could be made with an SA3 and an aluminum 2x4 from McMaster this also provides space to run an initial reduction into the power train via motor->SA3 chain/belt.

This may need to move to a rack top mount configuration to support the Jackshaft idea but... it would be cool, and would finally solve the issue of providing independent transmission for pedal vs motor power.

Any ideas or comments are as always welcome... this is just an idea bouncing in my head (along with dozens of others which are probably equally useless).
-Mike
 
That's what 12p was doing on his project:


file.php
 
Running a hub in a jackshaft as an intermediate reduction point will let you find out how well they can shift at 4-8 times the rpm they were designed to be shifted. A back-cut dog hub tranny might take that. Most other types of trannys have a minimum time interval for the little hub teeth to drop into each other enough that they don't just rip/mush over the tips of the teeth on the side of the shift collar when you try to shift at very high RPM.
 
Thanks guys,

That pic is similar to what I am thinking of... though I plan to cut down the axle and perhaps go with pulleys for a 2:1 between motor and internal shifting hub to reduce the RPM but now luke has me worried about the RPM these can handle... guess for 50.00 it's a worthy test?

Heck with it, firing off a new order for another 20" SA3 rear hub - even if it doesn't work (or blows) we will know the breaking point right?

Regards,
Mike
 
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