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Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

Hello everyone. I just registered on this website. My name is Pedro and I live in Barcelona, Spain. I have a Sur-ron LB and I am very happy with her, but I only have about 35 km of range. I've replaced the original battery cells with newer ones, now having 50 Ah instead of 32. I've not changed the original controller. But a inconvenience has appeared. The original BMS of the battery is not capable of correctly managing the increase in capacity. Seeing that I cannot take advantage of the original BMS of the battery, I am looking for one aftermarket BMS compatible with the new cells and also with the original controller. Do any of you know of a BMS that works correctly? Thanks in advance. Regards, Pedro
 
The original BMS of the battery is not capable of correctly managing the increase in capacity. Seeing that I cannot take advantage of the original BMS of the battery,
Normally the BMS doesn't monitor capacity directly and limit usage based on that, it only monitors the individual cell groups and limits based on their voltages. If yours does, perhaps you can post the info that shows this, and the model / brand of BMS, so we can see if there is a setup software for it that can alter it's settings.

If you are not seeing the greater capacity from the new battery (which should also take significantly more space than the original to get a 5/3 increase in capacity), it usually means something is wrong with one or more cell groups, so they drop in voltage before they should and the BMS shuts off output to prevent damage to them.
 
If you don't connect the signal wires from the battery, the bike will still run, it just won't go into Eco mode when the pack gets low or hot.
Their BMS was custom made and I am not aware of any way to reprogram it. I have seen people modify the shunts on the BMS to allow higher current. If you did this mod with the right resistors, you could recalibrate the coulometer to match the new capacity of your cells and the SOC meter would be close to accurate and the low battery safety features should work.
 
If you don't connect the signal wires from the battery, the bike will still run, it just won't go into Eco mode when the pack gets low or hot.
Their BMS was custom made and I am not aware of any way to reprogram it. I have seen people modify the shunts on the BMS to allow higher current. If you did this mod with the right resistors, you could recalibrate the coulometer to match the new capacity of your cells and the SOC meter would be close to accurate and the low battery safety features should work.
coulometer? Whats with this word and usage? Why all of the sudden peeps starting to use a coulometer instead of a wattmeter?
"Coulometry determines the amount of matter transformed during an electrolysis reaction by measuring the amount of electricity (in coulombs)" We are not doing the above right, we are actually measuring Amps and Volts, so why this coulometer where the unit is "coulombs"
 
coulometer? Whats with this word and usage? Why all of the sudden peeps starting to use a coulometer instead of a wattmeter?

Because quite a few ads for them are using that term in addition to or instead of wattmeter (for the same item), particularly for the ones that use remote shunts unlike the typical RC Wattmeters we commonly think of in this usage. If we use the term too, then it makes it easier for those reading our posts to find them to buy them to do the testing/etc with (since we can never make those advertising them use correct terminology).

And the wattmeters *are* effectively counting coulombs, just displaying it as Ah or Wh after some math (and hence, the "wattmeters" are also effectively coulometers).

None of the terms used for these things actually describe their functions accurately and completely....

Also, there are multiple BMS chips out there that do specifically do coulomb-counting.
 
coulometer = amp-hour meter. It's how the battery SOC bar graph gets its information.
Either way, by changing the shunt resistance, the amp reading going to the chip will be changed.
 
Thank you for your reply. I haven't explained in enough detail my problem. With the original cells (32 Ah) the autonomy was about 40 km. When I had traveled about 32 km (the battery display indicating a capacity of 20%) the eco mode started and stayed until the end. Everything was normal. But with the new cells (50 Ah), the eco mode kicks in when I have also traveled 32 or 34 km (?) (the display also indicates 20% capacity), although this time the eco mode is more powerful than with 32 Ah . If I keep riding, at approximately 40 km the display indicates 0% charge but I can still ride... about 20 km more while the display is saying 0%!! (?). 40+20= about 60 km. If I park the motorcycle with a 10% charge p. ex., one day later the indicator shows a charge of 32 or 35% (?!).

Making a by-pass in the shunt (it is a solution that works in many electric vehicles), the result is even worse.

I do not know what is happening. The BMS and controller are the original ones from Light Bee.
 
The new Solar (a well established e scooter brand) Eclipse may dethrone the Sur-ron.

Carbon fiber frame, more AH in the battery, uprated suspension and brakes, regen braking, higher max and continuous watt rating...

 
The new Solar (a well established e scooter brand) Eclipse may dethrone the Sur-ron.

Carbon fiber frame, more AH in the battery, uprated suspension and brakes, regen braking, higher max and continuous watt rating...

Looks like the motor will be the skid plate and carbon fiber for a dirt bike frame sounds kinda weak.Will make a good road bike though.
 
The new Solar (a well established e scooter brand) Eclipse may dethrone the Sur-ron.

Carbon fiber frame, more AH in the battery, uprated suspension and brakes, regen braking, higher max and continuous watt rating...

Cool. Maybe I can get a good deal on a surron from the 14 year olds who get these as Christmas gifts this year.
 
The new Solar (a well established e scooter brand) Eclipse may dethrone the Sur-ron.

Carbon fiber frame, more AH in the battery, uprated suspension and brakes, regen braking, higher max and continuous watt rating...
sur ron

Can't help myself but loving this e-motorcycle! Few little upgrades here and there and it's perfect. :)
 
A 60% scale motorcycle is great if you're a 60% scale human. I'm a 125% scale human and Sur-ron looks like a little kid's toy.

Thats why Sur Ron, besides the Light Bee, also make the Ultra Bee and the Storm Bee. The latter is more suitable for your size "human/Bigfoot" types ;)

 
The new Solar (a well established e scooter brand) Eclipse may dethrone the Sur-ron.

Carbon fiber frame, more AH in the battery, uprated suspension and brakes, regen braking, higher max and continuous watt rating...



I think Talaria has a better chance of rivalling the Sur Ron:


 
:)

You need to build an EV version of this:

Now that is an inspirational vehicle. No fun at all to ride as regular transportation, I'm guessing, but inspirational nonetheless. When I rode motorcycles, they were mostly 1100cc standards.

My own dream e-bike would probably be more like a hotted up 36er with a 4kW Cyclone driving the left crank Stokemonkey style, and a 3X3Nine hub.
IMG_1577_720x.jpg

 
What is holding you back actually building that dream bike?
Budget. Backlog of other projects. 3X3Nine hub apparently not available to mere mortals yet.

As a part time bicycle mechanic, my income is about 1/3 of the local median. That makes me bias hard towards personal projects that use resources I don't have to pay money for.
 
Two-speed belt drive on the Sur Ron would be sick!!

 
Two-speed belt drive on the Sur Ron would be sick!!

Yeah I've been thinking about the same thing. Do you think a 2 speed would be good?
 
Yeah I've been thinking about the same thing. Do you think a 2 speed would be good?
It's probably cheaper and easier to get all the same advantages and more by simply adding power and battery capacity. Multiple speeds for the motor only make sense if motor power is the limiting factor. If you're already riding an illegal bastard bike, what do you care? Just turn it up as much as you like.
 
It's probably cheaper and easier to get all the same advantages and more by simply adding power and battery capacity. Multiple speeds for the motor only make sense if motor power is the limiting factor. If you're already riding an illegal bastard bike, what do you care? Just turn it up as much as you like.
Why not have both?
 
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