TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[mbrusa]

What version are you trying?
v20.1C.2-3 or v20.1C.6-beta-0?
To view data, "Auto display data at light on" must be enabled.
The speed is always displayed.
Isn't it a problem of distance between magnet and speed sensor?
Does the motor work regularly even over long distances?

 

[mbrusa]

I found this forum discussion on E01 in German language. A vendor reached out to Tongsheng and they replied it is an error related to overheating the controller. Another user commented they had the same problem as me, E01 soon after turning on before any chance of overheating. Therefore they suspected overheating due to a defective MOSFET in the controller, or...temperature sensor is defective.

Error 01 bei Tongsheng TSDZ2

Uns haben 2 getrennte Meldungen von Kunden, die einen Error 01 im Display haben. Nach Rücksprache mit Tongsheng (dieser error Code taucht nicht in deren Bedienungsanleitung auf) handelt es sich um eine Überhitzung des Controller. Da die 2 Meldungen gerade in den wärmsten Tagen des Jahres...

www.pedelecforum.de

Notwithstanding this, I guess it could still be a continuity issue with connectors?

OSF errors and their codes are different.
Those listed in the Tonsheng manuals are no longer valid.
@dgc has already responded.

E01 – MOTOR_NOT_INIT
Communication problem, the display receives data from the motor controller, but the controller does not receive it from the display. Check the wiring.

 

[dgc]

Good morning all, looks like I have a TSDZ2 with a V2 controller which will not program, my mistake is that although it was ordered from china it came to me from Germany. Was there a project looking into programing the V2 controller? Otherwise I will pull the motor apart and fit a spare reprogrammed V1 controller I have in the cupboard and do the motor shaft bearing mod at the same time.

 

[mbrusa]

Thank you, @mbrusa !
After about 150km I can confirm that this f/w works flawless!
There is a noticeable improvement in motor-'smoothness':
While prior the update my motor made a turbine like whining noise, this is gone with this new f/w.
(It sounds now exactly as when I use mspider65 setup on this bike).
Also, the new java tool is very intuitive.
-> Thank you so much for 'not forgetting' us - the user group with stock displays!

Release Open source firmware TSDZ2-v20.1C.6-beta-0 VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18 · emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1
I thought, if there are no messages it means everything is fine...
Or maybe it's because no one is using it?
Glad to hear someone has tried it, Thanks for the feedback.
Let's wait some more.

 

[Coolby]

Can somebody help me please in wiring. I had a tsdz2b kit with 850c, I changed the display to 860c and I flashed the motor and the display as well. Now I cannot connect them due tó the different connectors. 5 pin on display and 8pin from motor splitted to a 3pin to throttle and 6pin to display. I found several pictures but with different schemes and colors, I cut the heads/connectors off, I identified the cables to the connectors, but what should be linked to what? Pictures attached.

 

[mbrusa]

Here is the location/function of the pins on the connectors, don't trust the colors.
Also consider that M and F are mirrored.
If you are not familiar with a tester and soldering iron, it is better to purchase a ready-made cable.
Conversion 1T4 Wire Harness for TSDZ2 TSDZ8

 

[iadesdragon]

What version are you trying?
v20.1C.2-3 or v20.1C.6-beta-0?
To view data, "Auto display data at light on" must be enabled.
The speed is always displayed.
Isn't it a problem of distance between magnet and speed sensor?
Does the motor work regularly even over long distances?

OK, Shows the Speed after a while but Data display does not seem to make any sense. As I took from the Maual ( wich excludes the P850 ) the Speed Value should show e.g. SOC% on startup which is doesn´t. Anyway, disabled all the Data Presentation since this bike is not my own and everything else works perfectly. (The rider of the Bike does not care anyway)

 

[Coolby]

Here is the location/function of the pins on the connectors, don't trust the colors.
Also consider that M and F are mirrored.
If you are not familiar with a tester and soldering iron, it is better to purchase a ready-made cable.
Conversion 1T4 Wire Harness for TSDZ2 TSDZ8

Thanks. I made the checks with tester, connected the wires taking into account mirroring female/male I also tried switching tx/rx, but it is not working. Screen comes up, but turns off, when I release the button. Can you please check my connections on the pictures? If it is good I will re-upload the firmware to the motor.

 

[Coolby]

Thanks. I made the checks with tester, connected the wires taking into account mirroring female/male I also tried switching tx/rx, but it is not working. Screen comes up, but turns off, when I release the button. Can you please check my connections on the pictures? If it is good I will re-upload the firmware to the motor.

View attachment 355188

What is the method to upload .hex? Only open hex file and program all tab? Or somehow tab by tab?

 

[Coolby]

Something wrong, motor display are not communicating.

 

[Coolby]

What is the method to upload .hex? Only open hex file and program all tab? Or somehow tab by tab?

After upload is anything else to do on motor side?

 

[mbrusa]

Thanks. I made the checks with tester, connected the wires taking into account mirroring female/male I also tried switching tx/rx, but it is not working. Screen comes up, but turns off, when I release the button. Can you please check my connections on the pictures? If it is good I will re-upload the firmware to the motor.

View attachment 355188

The connection seems ok, perhaps TX and RX need to be reversed, but you say you have tried.
Have you checked if the colors match?
How did you make the connection?
I didn't understand if the display now stays on.
When it's on, between Vin and GND you should measure the battery voltage.
Are the display and motor the same firmware version?

 

[Coolby]

The connection seems ok, perhaps TX and RX need to be reversed, but you say you have tried.
Have you checked if the colors match?
How did you make the connection?
I didn't understand if the display now stays on.
When it's on, between Vin and GND you should measure the battery voltage.
Are the display and motor the same firmware version?

Colors of wire is the same as on the pictures you provided. Motor firmware hex file is the same as the display shows. Display does not remains on, it is on only when I push on/off button and it shows only the waiting screen for the motor.

Motor firmware upgrade is only open hex file, program all tab, that is it? No other parameter, change is needed? (Here java configurator type of thing is needed?)

 

[Coolby]

The connection seems ok, perhaps TX and RX need to be reversed, but you say you have tried.
Have you checked if the colors match?
How did you make the connection?
I didn't understand if the display now stays on.
When it's on, between Vin and GND you should measure the battery voltage.
Are the display and motor the same firmware version?

Connections currently are permanent this way

 

[dgc]

Took a chance and bought a new Bafang 860C LCD Screen from Aliexpress after having to change the Tx and Rx wires over I was able to upload the firmware on to it. The DC-DC Adjustable Step Up Power Module and the Higo 5 Pin waterproof cable came from Ebay. Just waiting for a TSDZ2 mid drive to arrive to update the firmware and fit the additional bearing to the pedal arm axle. So far so good see what happens when I am able to power the whole system up on the bench.

 

[jebb]

Hi--

I'm trying to flash a SW102 and then will flash the firmware on my TSDZ2. Following instructions on the wiki:

"The firmware on SW102 can be flashed by Bluetooth (and you will do thatevery time you will want to update the firmware to a new version), BUT,only after our bootloader and firmware are flashed a first time usingSWD connection -- see here how to do it: Flash the bootloader andfirmware on SW102 usingSWD."

That page is 404. There's a firmware release linked below that page on the wiki for ota update (after first flash) that points here that mentions "sw102-otaupdate-1.1.0.zip"

Does anyone know if you can flash this firmware using the SWD pins?

On this page, it says:

"Download the latest version of the firmware from https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/SW102_LCD_Bluetooth/releases. You will only need the `sw102-full-x.y.z.hex` file for now (the latest as of writing this line is `sw102-full-0.19.17.hex`). For any later updates you'll just use our bluetooth bootloader and update the software via your Android or iOS phone."

That releases page is 404. The other one I linked above doesn't have any file called sw102-full-*.hex. The now-read-only Color_LCD releases page releases don't include this 'full' .hex.

Any ideas where I can find an up-to-date version of this file? Or should I use a different file in 2024?

 

[jebb]

(this post earlier in the thread has a link to this archived release for the color_lcd fork which has a version of sw102-full-0.19.15.hex - haven't tried it yet)

 

[jebb]

Ok I'm gonna try flashing using a st-link to flash the SW102 to 0.19.15 release above, then immediately use OTA to update to v20.1C.5, which I will then use the st-link to flash the motor controller to.

 

[jebb]

Welp, wrinkle #1: The SW102 I have seems to be a different revision than the one in these pics. I cut the side panel off, no pads. Also, the board has blue mask, not green. Cut the other side panel off, found the relevant pads, they're on the bottom though. Going to be very tricky to solder this, and will probably require destroying the case. I don't seem to have any header lying around that's the small enough pitch (it's very fine).

 

[mbrusa]

Colors of wire is the same as on the pictures you provided. Motor firmware hex file is the same as the display shows. Display does not remains on, it is on only when I push on/off button and it shows only the waiting screen for the motor.

Motor firmware upgrade is only open hex file, program all tab, that is it? No other parameter, change is needed? (Here java configurator type of thing is needed?)

For the motor, ST Visual Programmer must be used, with the .hex file only the PROGRAM MEMORY tab must be flashed, not the other two!
If you have flashed them, read the OPTION BYTE tab from the motor, check Value must be 00 00 20 00 00 00 00 00 00. If not, edit, save and flash.
However, this does not affect the switching on of the display.
Have you checked the voltage?
Between P+ and GND there must always be the battery voltage.
Between Vin and GND there must be the battery voltage when the display is on.
If it is not there, the 860C is damaged.

 

[pav]

The engine seems now quieter, but unfortunately the e-bike has lost its agility. I now have to adjust the TURBO level to make the engine noticeably assist. With the previous firmware version, I normally used the ECO level. I use HYBRID assist mode, startup BOOST 300%, smooth start ramp default 35%. my config file attached.
TSDZ2-v20.1C.6-beta-0 firmware

 

[dgc]

Daft question, as previous post I have loaded 860C firmware version 0.20.1c-5.0 onto the display, what do I have to load onto the TSDZ2 mid-drive and by which program? Said it's a daft question.

 

[mbrusa]

The engine seems now quieter, but unfortunately the e-bike has lost its agility. I now have to adjust the TURBO level to make the engine noticeably assist. With the previous firmware version, I normally used the ECO level. I use HYBRID assist mode, startup BOOST 300%, smooth start ramp default 35%. my config file attached.
TSDZ2-v20.1C.6-beta-0 firmware

I see you haven't done the torque sensor calibration.
If you use hybrid mode, I recommend doing it.
In hybrid mode "Startup boost" is not used.
Instead, the "Smooth start" function has been added, which wasn't there before.
So to have the same conditions as the previous version you should disable it, but I don't recommend it.
If you want to have more responsiveness when starting in hybrid mode, try increasing the "Smooth start" %, in addition to carrying out the torque calibration.

 

[jebb]

Is there a way to do torque sensor calibration using a VLCD5 that's already running the OSF? Presumably by reading off the te or te1 values from the 'ser' menu with different weights on the pedals?

 

[jebb]

Wondering if anyone has any ideas how to fix this bike:

I installed a TSDZ2 on this bike in 2018, with a VLCD6 and a 48V 14.3Ah battery. Only ran the stock firmware. It was great.

Last year, the blue gear failed, I replaced it with a brass one. Bike worked ok for a while.

Then, the bike had a problem with intermittent power delivery. Like, it basically didn't work, and every once in a while you could hear/feel the motor kick on, but mostly it just wouldn't do anything. I suspected the torque sensor was bad, so I replaced it. But when I took it apart, the sensor looked fine, and replacing it didn't fix anything. So I decided something else was wrong with the electronics and figured it was time to replace the whole motor, which was heavily used anyway.

Ordered a new TSDZ2B, installed it. This one came wired for a VLCD5 so I switched to that display (for now, rather than redo the connector wiring or make an adapter). This motor works, it's just sort of weak? The motor just never seems to be helping you all that much, even when you're in turbo. It's consistent, it engages and disengages correctly, it's just never a very strong boost, no matter what.

So I figured maybe the torque sensor calibration is out of whack and the firmware isn't getting much demand for power from the pedals. I installed the open-source firmware (incredible job everyone!). I can't figure out what data to use for the torque calibration mode, but I've tried just leaving that off and manually messing with the range and offset params, and it doesn't seem to make much difference. I feel like there must be some combination of these parameters that just linearizes the power output from some value to somem other value, so if I can make this "no weight" and "just a bit of weight" the bike wouldn't be great to ride but at least it would help me figure out what's going on, and then I could fiddle with the parameters from there.

One thing I was considering is is it possible that it's the old battery? I'm running out of stuff to change here.