TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

New convert to OSF with 850C display (used to have OSF on VLCD5)... what is the trick to reset the trip odometer on the 850C? I have tried every button press combo and sequence I can think of both in field setup mode and operating mode. The manual is silent on this.
 
No, that just takes you into the mode to select parameters to be displayed in each field. But I did find a way to do this... you need to go deep into the setup menus and they can be reset there. A PITA but this is really academic anyway since I plan to use my Garmin for this function.

Elinx said:
raylo32 said:
.... what is the trick to reset the trip odometer on the 850C? ......
Doesn't work longpress Up&down anymore?
 
mbrusa said:
This is bad news.
After three cases, it seems clear that it cannot be accidental.
As a precaution, I have decided to retire the v20.1C.3 version for stock displays, until I have identified the possible cause.
I invite all users of this version, v20.1C.3 for stock displays, to uninstall it immediately and return to version v20.1C, even those who have not had problems.
Hello mbrusa! Have you found the cause of the burnout of the transistors? I finally got a new controller and really want to update it with the latest new acceleration and deceleration features and high cadence assist. Already have a beta version?
 
hi Lii,
I did a cross-check between the various versions and I think I have identified the potential risk for mosfets.
In a few days I will be releasing two versions.
One to be tested, based on v20.1C.3, with the potential risk for mosfets eliminated. I can't say 100%, but almost.
Another based on the tried and tested v20.1C with all the modifications that I deemed necessary for security, including the mosfet risk.
Only a few days.
 
HI
I have updated controled to version v20.1C.3 and on torque mode and MTB I still have self running motor.
I can't find bootloader for 860C to version 1c3, so i have v 3 on controller and v 2 on 860C .
It should be like that?
I know that this bug was eliminated so, Im suprised that i have expirienced it today.
Please advice.
 
mbrusa said:
In a few days I will be releasing two versions.
One to be tested, based on v20.1C.3, with the potential risk for mosfets eliminated. I can't say 100%, but almost.
Another based on the tried and tested v20.1C with all the modifications that I deemed necessary for security, including the mosfet risk.
Only a few days.


Looking forward to this Bbrusa, I’m loving this 20.1c at the moment now I’ve had help from Elinx. I’m finding it all so perfect for my needs at the moment. Maybe a slightly quicker stop of the run on will make amazing.

Thanks for all your work everyone
 
mbrusa said:
... I think I have identified the potential risk for mosfets.
In a few days I will be releasing two versions.
..
:bigthumb:
I hope you will give some insight information too, for what you have found and done to eliminate this potential risk.
 
Hey everyone here,

Just did the update to 20.1c with 850c display. I have 48V 14.5Ah Battery on it and it is absolutley amazing, the hybrid mode and the torque mode works best for me even i can not feel any big difference between them.
i limited the max amp to 16 and max motor power to 800watt.
Have not installed a temp sendor now but maybe i will do it.
Only thing i saw maybe not correct is thatq my Torque Values reach only from 130(no load on pedal) to 250 (105kg on one pedal in horizontal position) shoudnt this be more than 250?

anyway for now i really love it, thanks again for your work mbrusa keep on going this way. if you need any tests just let me know i have converted around 100 bikes since last year with TSDZ2 but most of them with stock vlcd5 and stock fw... for now😈
 

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martin.shane said:
HI
I have updated controled to version v20.1C.3 and on torque mode and MTB I still have self running motor.
I can't find bootloader for 860C to version 1c3, so i have v 3 on controller and v 2 on 860C .
It should be like that?
I know that this bug was eliminated so, Im suprised that i have expirienced it today.
Please advice.
The problem of the motor running without pedaling and without any possibility of control only occurred with standard displays.
With 860C the problem is certainly different, if it occurs only with torque or eMTB mode there is some problem with the torque sensor or with the calibration.
When this happens, can you take a picture of the "Torque Sensor" and "Technical" display screens and post them?
With 860C, the v20.1C.2 bin file is also fine for hex v20.1C.3
 
matschi140 said:
Hey everyone here,

Just did the update to 20.1c with 850c display. I have 48V 14.5Ah Battery on it and it is absolutley amazing, the hybrid mode and the torque mode works best for me even i can not feel any big difference between them.
i limited the max amp to 16 and max motor power to 800watt.
Have not installed a temp sendor now but maybe i will do it.
Only thing i saw maybe not correct is thatq my Torque Values reach only from 130(no load on pedal) to 250 (105kg on one pedal in horizontal position) shoudnt this be more than 250?

anyway for now i really love it, thanks again for your work mbrusa keep on going this way. if you need any tests just let me know i have converted around 100 bikes since last year with TSDZ2 but most of them with stock vlcd5 and stock fw... for now😈
Well, I'm glad you are comfortable.
The values of the torque sensor that you have detected are within the possible range which is very wide.
With 850C you can also try v20.1C.3, it is better than v20.1C and there have been no reported problems with this version.
 
I just recently completed this switchover myself and agree it is great. These torque sensors probably vary a good bit and yours is probably in the acceptable range. For instance I get 153 unweighted and 285 with my 84kg weight on the pedal. Yours is not far off from that.

Watch out for temperature. Since I have installed my temp sensor I find that any constant motor effort much over 200-300 watts will push the limits if given enough time. It'll happen sooner on shorter higher watt efforts like hills. The wiki says to set the max battery current to lower values than what you have and max motor power lower (450W IIRC) to help avoid heat problems and as a practical matter doing so doesn't change how hard you can push the motor... you can't really use it harder anyway. Maybe you can with some of the hardware cooling ideas from the other thread. That is something I may play with next.

One tip for the temp sensor... in the wiki Casainho did his without cutting the throttle wires, just splice into them. Then you can remove the temp sensor and go back to a throttle if you ever want to... or ever have to swap out the controller. I made a short pigtail with a small 2 wire quick connector to make it easy to disconnect the sensor.

The one thing I really dislike about this setup is that like most color LCDs the 850C display is not very visible in bright sunlight even set to 100%. The 860 is supposed to be better so I may do that upgrade next.

Enjoy!



matschi140 said:
Hey everyone here,

Just did the update to 20.1c with 850c display. I have 48V 14.5Ah Battery on it and it is absolutley amazing, the hybrid mode and the torque mode works best for me even i can not feel any big difference between them.
i limited the max amp to 16 and max motor power to 800watt.
Have not installed a temp sendor now but maybe i will do it.
Only thing i saw maybe not correct is thatq my Torque Values reach only from 130(no load on pedal) to 250 (105kg on one pedal in horizontal position) shoudnt this be more than 250?

anyway for now i really love it, thanks again for your work mbrusa keep on going this way. if you need any tests just let me know i have converted around 100 bikes since last year with TSDZ2 but most of them with stock vlcd5 and stock fw... for now😈
 
mbrusa said:
matschi140 said:
Hey everyone here,

Just did the update to 20.1c with 850c display. I have 48V 14.5Ah Battery on it and it is absolutley amazing, the hybrid mode and the torque mode works best for me even i can not feel any big difference between them.
i limited the max amp to 16 and max motor power to 800watt.
Have not installed a temp sendor now but maybe i will do it.
Only thing i saw maybe not correct is thatq my Torque Values reach only from 130(no load on pedal) to 250 (105kg on one pedal in horizontal position) shoudnt this be more than 250?

anyway for now i really love it, thanks again for your work mbrusa keep on going this way. if you need any tests just let me know i have converted around 100 bikes since last year with TSDZ2 but most of them with stock vlcd5 and stock fw... for now😈
Well, I'm glad you are comfortable.
The values of the torque sensor that you have detected are within the possible range which is very wide.
With 850C you can also try v20.1C.3, it is better than v20.1C and there have been no reported problems with this version.

the 20.1C.3 i foind only in the 860C folder, bit i have the 850C can i use it anyway?
 
Also what i have noticed is that my Voltage reading on display is a bit off.. is there any possibility to calibrate it?
 
The display firmwares differ but the motor firmware is the same for 850 and 860. How do you know the voltage on the display is off? Or do you mean State Of Charge? SOC resets when you put in a battery that is fully charged over a specified threshold.

matschi140 said:
Also what i have noticed is that my Voltage reading on display is a bit off.. is there any possibility to calibrate it?
 
matschi140 said:
Also what i have noticed is that my Voltage reading on display is a bit off.. is there any possibility to calibrate it?
Is the error you’re referring to about <1.0 volt? Accuracy isn’t one of TongSheng’s priorities. It does mean that the low and reset voltages have to be set accordingly. I complained to a Chinese supplier that his product’s stated performance was well short of the actual and he replied that his statement was “an aspiration”.
 
i mean not SOC, i mean the Voltage, i measure with Multimeter on battery pins directly 45,2V and then plug the battery in and display shows 44,5V.

I think my battery has some weak cells as it is cutting off already at that voltage, then need turn bms off and on again. But when pullingbsome amps, the bms is cutting off again. Normally it should go down to 40V at least beforre cutting off for a 48V nominal battery. i will try with another battery.
 
Please help
I have lost today cadence and speed indicator. I mean it works somtimes and then it is blocked for few sec and comming back.
When I put assist mode to 0 all works fine. Cadence and speed shows normal values.
Problem starts when assistence is more the 0.
I also have check with the firmware 1.0.1 and it is the same, so is not a software inssue.
What it can be? Controller?
I have temp sensor from sometime and for last 500 km was all ok.
Yesterday I was coming home with heavy rain and today morning problems started.
First it was temp. sensor and cadence. Then i have opened the motor, cleaned everything ( was a lit bit wet inside) dry and put new white grease. All looks fine, but speed and cadence stop working.
Assistence works fine as before.
What do U think?
 
I have disconected all connectris inside and make it dry .
What connector is responsible for cadence reading?
Bigger one or the small one ?
 
So all clear... controller fail.
Strange as water should not affect it as it is covered by silicone.
I will seal all motor tommorow. For future.
Is a pitty that now I do not have temp sensor .
I have reduce battery current up to 13 so should be ok
 
Hello,
I am currently using the TSDZ2-v20.1C-LCD3.
Unfortunately I miss the cruise function here.
I have already tried all the settings, but neither cruise nor target speed work in this version.
Before I had tested the KT-LCD3-v0.20.0-beta.1 and the KT-LCD3-v0.19.0, Cruise ran perfectly with both versions.
Did I make a mistake while flashing?
Has Cruise been removed even though all settings are still available in the menu?
Is Cruise active again in version KT-LCD3-v20.1C.3-LCD3?

Mbrusa you write above that there will be a new version in the near future, should I wait before I flash the KT-LCD3-v20.1C.3-LCD3?
It's always a bummer to drag both bicycles up the stairs to the first floor and then to flasch at the pc.

By the way, I am otherwise very satisfied with the TSDZ2-v20.1C-LCD3, great work that is done here, thanks for that.

greeting
Karsten
 
Just a thought... Not really sure about LCD3 but on the 850/860 there are actually 2 separate places in different areas of the menu that cruise must be enabled for it to work. One is in "Street Mode" menu and the other I can't immediately recall. Not sure why this is, but it had me confused for awhile.

coolheizer said:
Hello,
I am currently using the TSDZ2-v20.1C-LCD3.
Unfortunately I miss the cruise function here.
I have already tried all the settings, but neither cruise nor target speed work in this version.
Before I had tested the KT-LCD3-v0.20.0-beta.1 and the KT-LCD3-v0.19.0, Cruise ran perfectly with both versions.
Did I make a mistake while flashing?
Has Cruise been removed even though all settings are still available in the menu?
Is Cruise active again in version KT-LCD3-v20.1C.3-LCD3?

Mbrusa you write above that there will be a new version in the near future, should I wait before I flash the KT-LCD3-v20.1C.3-LCD3?
It's always a bummer to drag both bicycles up the stairs to the first floor and then to flasch at the pc.

By the way, I am otherwise very satisfied with the TSDZ2-v20.1C-LCD3, great work that is done here, thanks for that.

greeting
Karsten
 
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