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TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

mbrusa said:
....
Yes, with "Motor fast stop" stopping is faster than the 100% deceleration ramp....
Thanks again.
Because I was satisfied with the deceleration on former versions, I had setup 50% in the first place.
This makes really a huge difference with "fast stop"
After this I take your first advice to setup the deceleration to 100% :roll:

But honestly, I can't observe much of a difference between 50% and 100%
It is working for me, so I let it this way.
 
TR8 I’m glad I misunderstood it in all fairness. I’m so chuffed with it now. It’s perfect!
I’m using torque mode with no assist
 
mbrusa said:
It can happen if the rotation of the wheel drags the chain which in turn turns the pedals and a very sensitive torque sensor.
In my opinion, the pedals are not driven by the chain (my chains have relatively much friction due to the Chainglider chain case) but by the friction of seals and bearings in the engine. (If helpful, I can send you a video of the behavior. Please send an email address via PM if desired).

The misbehavior (rear wheel spins without torque on the pedals) only occurs with v20.1C.3.
I first tried it with the old settings from v20.1C and then with presets from v20.1C.3 (only battery and display settings adjusted).
Then I flashed back to v20.1C and the problem was gone on both bikes.

mbrusa said:
Try to decrease the sensitivity of the torque sensor, see the calibration procedure.
If no one else has these problems I will try the v20.1C.3 again next weekend according to your suggestions.

Many thanks for your software and your help.
 
I'm curious if it is neccesary to handle the torque temperature drift?

With the latest update to v0,20.1C3 I measured the torque values again and I found that these values drift in time.
I think it is because of the ambient temperature.

I have measured these the first time with v0.19 mbrusa_mods (dec-2019)
I didn't with v0.20b (feb-20) because only the range was needed, which I insert from 0.19
Now I have measured the torque values with v0.20.1C (apr-21) and v0.20.1C3 (jun-2021)
The range (125) is still the same as with 0.19, but min/max values are drifted 23 adc total.
In my case this is about 18,5% of the range
Besides the versions, the ambient temperature is different (dec/apr/jun)

Why I ask, because till 0.20b only the range was needed, but with versions 0.20. 1C-1C3 also the zero offset.
With 0.20 the default range is raised to 160 (10 bit) for the better torquesensor and software calibration was introduced for the less better ones.
But what happens if the range stays the same but zero offset and max value drift to a higher level?

0.19mb - 121-246
20.1C1 - 133-258
20.1C3 - 143-268



tr8 said:
...
If no one else has these problems I will try the v20.1C.3 ...
After reading your post, I have tried it too, but my pedals runs just a half rotation after pushing the pedal and then stops.
 
tr8 said:
In my opinion, the pedals are not driven by the chain (my chains have relatively much friction due to the Chainglider chain case) but by the friction of seals and bearings in the engine. (If helpful, I can send you a video of the behavior. Please send an email address via PM if desired).
...
Agree, it is important to understand the cause, I am sending you a PM.
It would also be useful to have the timestamp.ini files created by the configurator with "Compile & Flash".
 
Because also I’m a total newbie I’m gonna ask a question that’s probably been asked a million times before.
From what I gather the motor is same regardless if I buy a 250w or 1000w
My style of riding is I want to put the effort in but would be nice to show off. So do I set motor at 250w and keep parameters fairly low in 3 modes and as high as I can get at 250w or do I go for 1000w and keep ridiculously low and set mode 4 as wooosh
 
HI
problem with wobbling .... I'm recording a video, it's just an outer bearing CSK30P, is it normal ??? by adding 6902 LLU MAX and 6902 2RS I did not solve the problem.

[youtube]https://youtu.be/F44vOpmszMU[/youtube]
 
mbrusa said:
By decreasing the value of the acceleration ramp the motor will be slower to reach the maximum power.

I found that it doesn't ever reach max if I am climbing a hill, and I really struggle.
If I have it set to 35 I don't struggle up the hills anywhere near so much, but it's a bit brutal on acceleration.
 
Elinx said:
BunnyMan69 said:
...
From what I gather the motor is same regardless if I buy a 250w or 1000w..
Not exactly.
There a 2 motortypes, 36V and 48V. The last one can deliver the most power.

freexxx said:
HI
problem with wobbling .... outer bearing CSK30P, is it normal ??? by adding 6902 LLU MAX and 6902 2RS I did not solve the problem.....
Because of the tolerances a bit wobbling is normal.
Your video is very short, so I can't see if the wobbling was between inner and outer CSK30P ring or at the axle too.
If this is the case the extra bearings are minimizing this. Did you notice some difference without or with extra bearings?

wobbling is only on outer of CSK30P and axle but only little bit. But orginal BAFANG,BOSCH,YAMAHA,SHIMANO there is a wobbling nowhere.

I haven't noticed an improvement by adding bearings
 
freexxx said:
,,,,
wobbling is only on outer of CSK30P and axle but only little bit. ....
See here for my respons.

I realized that I provided extensive answers to hardware questions in this Open Source Software topic.
That's why I moved my contribution to the General Tsdz2 topic. Apologies to mbrusa
 
Getting ready to take the plunge on OSF. I have an 860C display with OSF V1 but I don't have a bootloader to update that yet to the latest OSF (I have one ordered). I do have an ST Link to flash the motor. Will my old version 860 work with the new version on the motor? Or do I need to wait and do both?
 
Hi guys,
I flashed the v20.C.3 onto a new controller last Friday and did a test drive. At first everything was fine. The engine was quiet and powerful. After about 5 km the display went out. The BMS of the battery switched off because of overcurrent.
I removed the controller and checked it. The mos-fets of the "yellow" phase have a short circuit to VBatt and to GND.
Now I'm not sure if the new controller was not quite right or if there is a small problem in the firmware.
Today I read in the German forum that someone else's controller failed.
Regards
 
Thanks a million mbrusa and Elinx my issue about not being able to change modes on my VLCD6 it was all to do with set parameters at start up not checked (I just kept at default) I thought it was to change the values of the parameters. So that’s all sorted now. I find it quite easy really and altered modes straight away. I tried the enable and disable options too at level 0 E2 and also tried the street mode enable and disabling with changing save as default at level 0 E4

Question time, i initially had start torque mode at startup checked and then enabled street mode as default using display and saved as default . I know it works because throttle is disabled. When I turn street mode off what mode will it go to? Also if keep street mode on and try to select hybrid mode for example level 3 E3 does it try to use the settings based on 250w ( I have set to 500w initially) which I assume uses 500w settings after disabling street mode.

I’m loving this firmware but using the older version because of the spinning motor with slightest pressure issue. Even after a few minutes of using display I’m sure I’d be able to calibrate if necessary but all seems to act so perfect for me at the moment
 
good evening

hopefully someone can help before i buy a new display.

i recently decided to give open source firmware a go on my tsdz2 however i have had problems flashing my 850c display. i have all the cables from eco cycles the problem is it flashes says its successful but will not power on. i cant seem to find a copy of the stock firmware for the 850c to flash back to stock i did however find maxicolour850c firmware so i flashed that and the display turns on, i have tried osf and your fork but the display refuses to work.

is there any thing i can try before i purchases a new display

thanks in advance Jake
 
BunnyMan69 said:
... When I turn street mode off what mode will it go to? ...
With streetmode ON, you use the (mostly lower) speed (and power) setting of the second (assist) tab.
With streetmode OFF, you use speed and power setting of the first (basic) tab.
Al other settings and modes stay unchanged, besides if you have enabled/disabled some extra streetmode options (throttle/walk etc)
 
I’m not quite with you Elinx on the first and second tab bit.

The second tab has the settings for all the modes so will it select the one that says enable on start up
 
Dudarus1 said:
...
i recently decided to give open source firmware a go on my tsdz2 however i have had problems flashing my 850c display. ...
I use a stock display so haven't these problems.
For what I have read there are two models of the 850C. The newest model is the problem.
I know there is somewhere on this forum a solution is posted, but don't know if someone has made that change.
 
I’m asking too many questions I know, but now I’m getting my head around this a lot more.

If I enable street mode at start up so it all looks legit and keeps to speed limit is it ok to turn street mode off and select another mode whilst still pedalling?
 
BunnyMan69 said:
The second tab has the settings for all the modes so will it select the one that says enable on start up
The street mode setting on that second (assist) tab, will be enabled on startup if you select that option on first (basic) tab
secondTAB.jpg

If you switch streetmode OFF (or unchecked streetmode at startup) The speed and power setting of the first tab will be set
firstTAB.jpg
BunnyMan69 said:
...
If I enable street mode at start up so it all looks legit and keeps to speed limit is it ok to turn street mode off and select another mode whilst still pedalling?
Again.... Streetmode has only influence on speed (and optional power too) All other settings stays untouched.
If you have power-assist and choose torque-assist while pedaling. It will be torque-assist too if you switch between streetmode ON/OFF/ON/OFF etc.
 
abrainer said:
Hi guys,
I flashed the v20.C.3 onto a new controller last Friday and did a test drive. At first everything was fine. The engine was quiet and powerful. After about 5 km the display went out. The BMS of the battery switched off because of overcurrent.
I removed the controller and checked it. The mos-fets of the "yellow" phase have a short circuit to VBatt and to GND.
Now I'm not sure if the new controller was not quite right or if there is a small problem in the firmware.
Today I read in the German forum that someone else's controller failed.
Regards
A faulty controller can happen, but if there are more than one the doubt that it may be due to the software is legitimate.
You were right to report it.
One question, is the version you tried the stock display version?
Who had the same problem, do you know which display they tried with?
 
Dudarus1 said:
good evening

hopefully someone can help before i buy a new display.

i recently decided to give open source firmware a go on my tsdz2 however i have had problems flashing my 850c display. i have all the cables from eco cycles the problem is it flashes says its successful but will not power on. i cant seem to find a copy of the stock firmware for the 850c to flash back to stock i did however find maxicolour850c firmware so i flashed that and the display turns on, i have tried osf and your fork but the display refuses to work.

is there any thing i can try before i purchases a new display

thanks in advance Jake
There are two firmware versions for 850C.
850C_v20.1C.2-bootloader.bin, for displays up to 2020.
850C_2021_v20.1C.2-bootloader.bin, for 2021 displays.
Check the date on the back of the display.
There are two firmware versions for 850C.
850C_v20.1C.2-bootloader.bin, for displays up to 2020.
850C_2021_v20.1C.2-bootloader.bin, for 2021 displays.
Check the date on the back of the display
Obviously for the motor you have to use version v20.1C.2 or v20.1C.3.
 
I tested the new version and was very pleased with the result. Now I was able to achieve a softer start, a quick stop assist when I stop pedaling, and even more power comparable to the Bosch CX. The bike is now friendlier but very powerful. Thank you mbrusa!
 
abrainer said:
.....
Today I read in the German forum that someone else's controller failed....
I saw the picture of that :flame: controller. Hopefully it isn't OSF
 
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