Error E07 is overcurrent check error.
TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.
- Thread starter mbrusa
- Start date
marvin78
10 kW
As the others said, it's overcurrent. It happens when you stall the motor suddenly, or well thats the reason at least it's been happening to me.
that's what must have happened, I was on a very bumpy climb with stones, and the wheel must have locked on a bump for a micro second...
Can we adjust the sensitivity so that error 07 occurs less easily? By adjusting the battery settings for example?
I pass by this place very often, it's annoying, with the original firmware I never had a problem there
Can we adjust the sensitivity so that error 07 occurs less easily? By adjusting the battery settings for example?
I pass by this place very often, it's annoying, with the original firmware I never had a problem there
marvin78
10 kW
Not user configurable. It's explained previous in the thread. But we're supposed to give feedback for if it needs adjustment.
For me, the previous times all happened not on inclines but when I had issues with my drivetrain locking up suddenly. I just never really accepted that this warning should be heeded instead of reset and ignored. But it's a worse case scenario, I think everything worked as advertised / it should, otherwise it probably would have stripped all the teeth completely.
I'll do chirgury later today. Not like I'll be taking my bike to go to the store or anything.
For you, to really know if E07 is to cautious or not, if you have been riding same conditions for a long time without issues, would be checking if you have excessive wear on your gear. Unless E07 is also protecting the electrical circuit some way, if you don't have any excessive wear while consistently riding under conditions which trigger the error, it might be to sensitive?
I'm pretty sure if you read back you'll find it's not user configurable on purpose.
For me, the previous times all happened not on inclines but when I had issues with my drivetrain locking up suddenly. I just never really accepted that this warning should be heeded instead of reset and ignored. But it's a worse case scenario, I think everything worked as advertised / it should, otherwise it probably would have stripped all the teeth completely.
I'll do chirgury later today. Not like I'll be taking my bike to go to the store or anything.
For you, to really know if E07 is to cautious or not, if you have been riding same conditions for a long time without issues, would be checking if you have excessive wear on your gear. Unless E07 is also protecting the electrical circuit some way, if you don't have any excessive wear while consistently riding under conditions which trigger the error, it might be to sensitive?
I'm pretty sure if you read back you'll find it's not user configurable on purpose.
I understand that it is a safety to protect the engine and transmission, but I wanted to say that with the original firmware, I have been to this place dozens of times and I have never broken anything, neither engine, nor chain, nor sprockets, so for my personal use this safety is useless, it is even dangerous depending on where the engine will cut out (risk of falling)
I even specify that my blue sprocket is the original one! it has more than 12000km just in mountain biking. It all comes down to how you use the equipment.
For me, assistance must be mutual, the engine assists my legs and my legs assist the engine, if one of the two forces too much, it does not last long!
I even specify that my blue sprocket is the original one! it has more than 12000km just in mountain biking. It all comes down to how you use the equipment.
For me, assistance must be mutual, the engine assists my legs and my legs assist the engine, if one of the two forces too much, it does not last long!
thank you mbrusa unintentionally, on my first try, I saw this little inconvenience.
I noticed that it happened when my battery was fully charged, it didn't happen again after that. Could it be related to the maximum charge of the battery?
marvin78
10 kW
edit: I do have to say it's less bad then I thought it was yesterday. It still assists, and while sounding very crunchy it doesn't seem to slip. But I was riding like 5km/h in a very high gearing, on my appartment's gallery.
I might be able to keep riding this while I wait for a new replacement gear ( after I openend it up and double checked what I need to order to fix this noise ).
edit2: I must have felt really suspicious and distrusting of anything which didn't sound 'normal' yesterday, I was almost certain I stripped a gear. This morning I was still convinced something was wrong.
But I tried a slightly longer ride, to the store and back, and the noise actually went away again. Not just 'less noise at higher speed' but now even at low speeds it sounds like it always did.
Last edited:
At the same power, if the voltage is higher, the current is lower.
unintentionally, on my first try, I saw this little inconvenience.
I noticed that it happened when my battery was fully charged, it didn't happen again after that. Could it be related to the maximum charge of the battery?
I would open the drive up and check it all over, gears, bearings etc, especially if one has been on high power in a high gear before there is more damage. If the drive has stalled it's likely to have damaged / broke a gear tooth, hopefully on the blue gear.
marvin78
10 kW
I really should, even if I thought it was ok today ( did a longer ride, 20km ). Took it a little easier as normal though, because I'm still unsure if that chain being bone dry was the only issue, or hasn't damaged the derraileur in some way which will cause malfunctions in the future. I don't want another incident.
The way the chain wrapped around the crankset and frame caused it to stop instantly, while I was still hearing the motor try to drive it because I had weight on the pedals, I was certain it was going to be bad.
I'll take it apart this weekend. If nothing else, I already wanted to open it up and regrease everything which needed it and I am very curious to how the gears will be looking.
The way the chain wrapped around the crankset and frame caused it to stop instantly, while I was still hearing the motor try to drive it because I had weight on the pedals, I was certain it was going to be bad.
I'll take it apart this weekend. If nothing else, I already wanted to open it up and regrease everything which needed it and I am very curious to how the gears will be looking.
Sometimes the chain can go stiff in places usually this would be due to lack of use or rust and throw itself off the derailleur wheels or the derailleur alignment is slight and throws the chair off the cassette gears my derailleur was slightly out the chain ended riding on top of the cassette gears.
marvin78
10 kW
Chain came with the new groupset, so 3 months old. I still have the chain, and upon inspection it's not only dry but also does have corrosion on it. None of the chains I have previously used have behaved like this, but I am also not 100% sure I properly lubed and cleaned it with the rain and freezing weather ( salt on the road/cycleways ) lately. So, lack of maintenance and salt probably caused the failure, along with a lower then expected quality. I wish it would be the only damage, since then it would be solved with having replaced the chain ( and making sure the new one is really well lubed 
).
*You know what, I went back to the add I bought it from, and I only now notice the part where they mention they might provide an 'alternative chain' which is 'equally good' but from some other brand. That was the chain I got as well. I don't agree with the add stating that this alternative chain to the one it was supposed to ship with, is of 'equal quality'. And if it is, the chains from Decathlon you can buy for a tenner are x times better and both chains from the kit suck. Also, price war is not really visible with this item, it's now 7 euro's cheaper as 3 months ago
But, upon further inspection, 100% something is bent. It still seems to shift correctly but I can't go to the upper two gears without the derrailleur wheel touching the cassette. Since this was a kit, and I am sure it cleared it normally when I installed it, it's clearly damaged due to earlier incidents. I would have expected it to go out of allignment, before something would get damaged otherwise so I hadn't really noticed earlier.
It's weird, it looks like the cage is out of allignment but if it were, I wouldn't be getting normal shifting on the entire range right up to the point where the wheel touches the cassette. It's more like the derrailleur was bent so much the spring inside now doesn't extend to the point where it forces the cage out from the cassette.
When I take the motor apart this weekend I'll have a good look. And probably make a new thread for it
). *You know what, I went back to the add I bought it from, and I only now notice the part where they mention they might provide an 'alternative chain' which is 'equally good' but from some other brand. That was the chain I got as well. I don't agree with the add stating that this alternative chain to the one it was supposed to ship with, is of 'equal quality'. And if it is, the chains from Decathlon you can buy for a tenner are x times better and both chains from the kit suck. Also, price war is not really visible with this item, it's now 7 euro's cheaper as 3 months ago
But, upon further inspection, 100% something is bent. It still seems to shift correctly but I can't go to the upper two gears without the derrailleur wheel touching the cassette. Since this was a kit, and I am sure it cleared it normally when I installed it, it's clearly damaged due to earlier incidents. I would have expected it to go out of allignment, before something would get damaged otherwise so I hadn't really noticed earlier.
It's weird, it looks like the cage is out of allignment but if it were, I wouldn't be getting normal shifting on the entire range right up to the point where the wheel touches the cassette. It's more like the derrailleur was bent so much the spring inside now doesn't extend to the point where it forces the cage out from the cassette.
When I take the motor apart this weekend I'll have a good look. And probably make a new thread for it
Sorry mrbusa, I don't want to pollute your thread.
What camera did you use to make the video and how was it mounted?
edit: I do have to say it's less bad then I thought it was yesterday. It still assists, and while sounding very crunchy it doesn't seem to slip. But I was riding like 5km/h in a very high gearing, on my appartment's gallery.
I might be able to keep riding this while I wait for a new replacement gear ( after I openend it up and double checked what I need to order to fix this noise ).
edit2: I must have felt really suspicious and distrusting of anything which didn't sound 'normal' yesterday, I was almost certain I stripped a gear. This morning I was still convinced something was wrong.
But I tried a slightly longer ride, to the store and back, and the noise actually went away again. Not just 'less noise at higher speed' but now even at low speeds it sounds like it always did.
My chain popped off my TSDZ2 42T chainring on my Raleigh M80 too often riding over big pot holes or jumping off curbs, until i replaced it with this narrow wide 42T https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...st_main.5.48331802DJh4Aw&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Problem no more!
marvin78
10 kW
Akaso v50 iirc, and I used one of those flexible tripods wrapped around my seatstay
Dropped a chain a few times, but it's far from as bad as I was expecting. The new derrailleur also helped, the old one just was worn out and didn't provide as much tension.
Either way, none of the times I snapped the chain involved dropping a chain first, heck iirc both times even after snapping and getting wound between the crankset and the frame the chain was still on the chainring.
I have a narrow wide in my wishlist / saved items list. It comes with adapter, your link does not I think? If I ever really find it becomes an issue, it will be the first upgrade. Well that and if that happens most likely I would be riding more trails again and I would certainly need a rd with a clutch as well. Thanks for the suggestion though, no one will argue with the benefits of a proper narrow wide.. well maybe Tongshen
Dropped a chain a few times, but it's far from as bad as I was expecting. The new derrailleur also helped, the old one just was worn out and didn't provide as much tension.
Either way, none of the times I snapped the chain involved dropping a chain first, heck iirc both times even after snapping and getting wound between the crankset and the frame the chain was still on the chainring.
I have a narrow wide in my wishlist / saved items list. It comes with adapter, your link does not I think? If I ever really find it becomes an issue, it will be the first upgrade. Well that and if that happens most likely I would be riding more trails again and I would certainly need a rd with a clutch as well. Thanks for the suggestion though, no one will argue with the benefits of a proper narrow wide.. well maybe Tongshen
marvin78
10 kW
I think the adapter is for pushing the chainline out.
I continue my discovery of the OSF (v20.1C.6-beta-1-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18).I would like to test the eMTB mode, I saw that the values for each level must be between 21 and 250.
For a MTB only use would these values be suitable for example?
eco: 21
tour : 100
sport : 175
turbo : 250
For a MTB only use would these values be suitable for example?
eco: 21
tour : 100
sport : 175
turbo : 250
The eMTB mode is different from the others, the aim should be to cover a wide range of power with a single level, from a few watts to the desired maximum.
The choice of level should only serve to identify the most suitable for the purpose.
Useful on routes where, with the other modes, you would often change the assistance level.
Nothing prevents you from using the levels as in the other modes.
As for the settings, try with the default values.
The choice of level should only serve to identify the most suitable for the purpose.
Useful on routes where, with the other modes, you would often change the assistance level.
Nothing prevents you from using the levels as in the other modes.
As for the settings, try with the default values.
Here is the new version v20.1C.5-update-1 for 860C.
It was more complicated than expected to fix the bug in autoreset Trip A and Trip B, however I did it.
Here is the detail of the changes:
TSDZ2 Open Source Firmware v20.1C.5-update-1 for 860C display
1 - Improved field weakening feature.
2 - Increased motor blocked check time (and 4).
3 - Increased minimum rpm for motor reactivation (by dzid26).
4 - All errors are reset only by turning the display off.
5 - Added history of last 4 errors.
6 - Error and warning message priority changed.
7 - Added startup assist level choice.
8 - Added startup riding mode choice.
9 - Added "Speed limit" warning message.
10 - Added "Voltage cut-off" warning message.
11 - Added details to Service A and B warnings.
12 - Battery charge cycles, editable field.
13 - Fixed bugs in auto reset of trips A and B.
14 - Fixed bugs in SOC auto calculation.
15 - Improved automatic lights on/off.
16 - With Reset to defaults, Odometer and Charge cycles are retained.
17 - Changed filters for displaying motor power.
18 - Added "e 9 Undervoltage" error message.
19 - Cut PWM above speed limit (by dzid26).
20 - Added overcurrent error delay in "Motor" menu (e7)
Updated Display-Configuration-Guide
Firmware open source v20.1C.5-update-1-860C-850C-SW102
It was more complicated than expected to fix the bug in autoreset Trip A and Trip B, however I did it.
Here is the detail of the changes:
TSDZ2 Open Source Firmware v20.1C.5-update-1 for 860C display
1 - Improved field weakening feature.
2 - Increased motor blocked check time (and 4).
3 - Increased minimum rpm for motor reactivation (by dzid26).
4 - All errors are reset only by turning the display off.
5 - Added history of last 4 errors.
6 - Error and warning message priority changed.
7 - Added startup assist level choice.
8 - Added startup riding mode choice.
9 - Added "Speed limit" warning message.
10 - Added "Voltage cut-off" warning message.
11 - Added details to Service A and B warnings.
12 - Battery charge cycles, editable field.
13 - Fixed bugs in auto reset of trips A and B.
14 - Fixed bugs in SOC auto calculation.
15 - Improved automatic lights on/off.
16 - With Reset to defaults, Odometer and Charge cycles are retained.
17 - Changed filters for displaying motor power.
18 - Added "e 9 Undervoltage" error message.
19 - Cut PWM above speed limit (by dzid26).
20 - Added overcurrent error delay in "Motor" menu (e7)
Updated Display-Configuration-Guide
Firmware open source v20.1C.5-update-1-860C-850C-SW102
Thank you again for this work mbrusa !
The startup assist level choice is great on SW102 since the assist level is not permanently visible on this display.
I noted a bug on SW102 :
The bottom line, mostly used for temporary informations (like "motor init" during startup, type of assist chosen, or "brake" when the sensor is triggered) does show the last item permanently displayed until replaced by another one.
Example : when I turn on the display, the assist type remains displayed instead of disappearing after a few seconds. If I press the brakes, "BRAKES" remains displayed even after the lever is released (while the motor is able to run again, as normal)
