Turnigy watt meter for $25
- Thread starter Hyena
- Start date
Russell
1 MW
morph999 said:
The meter is placed in-line between your battery and controller so how much wire you need depends on the location of those items and whether or not you want to monitor the meter during a ride. If all you want are the final stats and you have a rear mounted battery and controller then you don't need to add any wire. If you do want to monitor the meter during a ride then you will want to mount the meter on your handlebars. If you have a rear mounted battery and controller then of course this means running heavy gauge wires from the battery up to the handlebars and back again to the controller however this should take no more than 8-9 feet of wire. What I liked to do with a rear battery and front motor is to mount the controller on the handlebars and place the meter on top of the controller, in this way you have about 4 feet of wire from the rear battery to the meter which then feeds directly into the controller.
-R
for now, I'll just hook it up and leave it in the battery bag on the back of my bike. I didn't think I'd be able to hook it up without a trip to the hardware store but I remembered that I have some wingtwists. Tomorrow, I'll take the bike out and find out just how much my batteries are giving me.
When I get my lifepo4 battery, I'll run some more wire up to the handlebars.
When I get my lifepo4 battery, I'll run some more wire up to the handlebars.
I finally got the chance to use one of these to test some stuff on the CrazyBike, and it's nice enough, but I wish it measured current in reverse. It does allow reverse current flow with no problems, it just doesnt' register it. (I can charge the battery with it hooked up charger on motor plug of meter)
I am wondering if it's possible to hack it's software. I don't imagine there's a hardware reason not to be able to, unless the shunt-to-ADC electronics don't output a voltage the ADC can read when it flows in reverse.
I thought I saw what looked like programming pin-holes on the PCB in the review thread with pics (can't find the thread now, though); if they didn't lock the MCU after programming then perhaps it can be read back and rewritten if anyone could figure out what to change to test this--if so, it would then measure "regen current", at least by subtracting it from current used, if not separately like the CA does.
On a side note, turns out my bike on a 5-mile trip uses around 30-35Wh/mile, low on the first half and higher on the second when loaded down. Not nearly as good as I had expected based on analog panel meter readings and guesstimates (panel meter is significantly low-reading, apparently).
Still, for hauling 380 pounds of bike/me plus stuff (including nearly 80 pounds of dog food, groceries, etc) I guess that's not too bad, considering I was going for at least two miles (one each way) at 17-18MPH, some of that into a stiffish headwind (10-15MPH) with at least 13 complete stops/starts, and up to a bit over 19MPH peak speed here and there.
I am wondering if it's possible to hack it's software. I don't imagine there's a hardware reason not to be able to, unless the shunt-to-ADC electronics don't output a voltage the ADC can read when it flows in reverse.
I thought I saw what looked like programming pin-holes on the PCB in the review thread with pics (can't find the thread now, though); if they didn't lock the MCU after programming then perhaps it can be read back and rewritten if anyone could figure out what to change to test this--if so, it would then measure "regen current", at least by subtracting it from current used, if not separately like the CA does.
On a side note, turns out my bike on a 5-mile trip uses around 30-35Wh/mile, low on the first half and higher on the second when loaded down. Not nearly as good as I had expected based on analog panel meter readings and guesstimates (panel meter is significantly low-reading, apparently).
Still, for hauling 380 pounds of bike/me plus stuff (including nearly 80 pounds of dog food, groceries, etc) I guess that's not too bad, considering I was going for at least two miles (one each way) at 17-18MPH, some of that into a stiffish headwind (10-15MPH) with at least 13 complete stops/starts, and up to a bit over 19MPH peak speed here and there.
SpeedEBikes
100 W
I haven't been using the Turnigy meter a whole lot as I've also got a couple WattsUp meters. But I have used it enough to notice that the backlight seems to be rather random. Sometimes I plug it in and it is lit and sometimes not. Sometimes it turns on or off while plugged in. I don't actually know how it is supposed to behave. My guess is that if I open mine up and jiggle stuff around I'll find a loose solder joint. It would also be a good excuse to go in there and splice in an external switch for controlling when it is on or off.
But before I bother to do that, I thought I'd ask how it works for everyone else. Always on? Only on when it's dark? Or is it random like mine?
But before I bother to do that, I thought I'd ask how it works for everyone else. Always on? Only on when it's dark? Or is it random like mine?
Doctorbass
100 GW
Here is my review of that new Power Analyzer
Pretty good performances and very SIMILAR to the Watt's up!!
[youtube]4RkldBzc-Vs[/youtube]
Doc
Pretty good performances and very SIMILAR to the Watt's up!!
[youtube]4RkldBzc-Vs[/youtube]Doc
SpeedEBikes said:
The one I'm testing with here is always backlit if it is on. Disadvantage is it is just bright enough a backlight to make it a little harder to read in daylight, but it is not too bright for nighttime; relatively it's almost the same as my m100 PDA used for the bike computer with VeloAce. I just wish the meter was green instead of blue--blue is annoying at night, and distracting.
Hyena
10 GW
Great review Doc, thanks!
I was going to post one myself so you saved me the trouble
Out of interest, did you try measuring your ping battery direct with the fluke ? I guess if anything you'd expect it to read a touch lower having already run through 2 other meters ?
Amberwolf, green LED illumination is sooo 2 decades ago
I was going to post one myself so you saved me the trouble
Out of interest, did you try measuring your ping battery direct with the fluke ? I guess if anything you'd expect it to read a touch lower having already run through 2 other meters ?
Amberwolf, green LED illumination is sooo 2 decades ago
AussieJester
1 TW
Hyena said:Amberwolf, green LED illumination is sooo 2 decades ago
True DAT!...a handy fella like yourself could change it though amberwolf...
KiM
vanilla ice
1 MW
Amber please! With ambient light sensor. And the reverse current tracking also. And 10awg. Umm small internal battery for memory hold function? Battery disconnect switch too... for the same price. Then I'll buy two more.
Darn, I just brought Watt's up meter few weeks ago. Turnigy watt meter is pretty sweet deal at 25 bucks.
Looks like the Turnigy watt meter would hold up in rain since it has clear cover over the LCD display. I have the Watt's up meter on my handle bar. Should I be concerned about water getting inside the LCD display when it rains? I was thinking of covering it up with Plexiglass.
Looks like the Turnigy watt meter would hold up in rain since it has clear cover over the LCD display. I have the Watt's up meter on my handle bar. Should I be concerned about water getting inside the LCD display when it rains? I was thinking of covering it up with Plexiglass.
docnjoj
1 GW
Yes! It has an open grill on the back of the meter.
otherDoc
otherDoc
liveforphysics
100 TW
If you wish to have display lighting at night, use deep red. 670nm red LEDs would be optimal, as it won't effect your eye's natural night vision.
Hyena
10 GW
For those that missed out earlier, these are back in stock at hobbyking now. Unlike last time when they only reordered 50 odd this time they have 500+
Stock up kids
Stock up kids
HTB_Terry
100 W
Has anybody tested the accuracy of the watt hours? If Doc would have let his test run for an hour that would have been great. Looking for a side by side comparison with a cycle analyst (calibrated) or the watts up.
AussieJester
1 TW
Having now used both i definitely prefer the Turnigy over the Watts Up its cheaper
handles more amps and has a spiffy backlight lcd nothing not to love about it...
KiM
handles more amps and has a spiffy backlight lcd nothing not to love about it...
KiM
Doctorbass
100 GW
TMaster said:I just ordered a second one today because I like it so much and want to do some testing on it. It's been working fine up to 70V peak off my batteries. I"m going to run it around 69V nom, 74V peak and I hope it still works.
74V is a grey ...dangerous zone!.. the sensitive internal component inside is.. exactly the same on every 60V wattmeter and is a 8 pin Voltage reglulator. It simply blow is you put too much voltage.
For sure i can confirm that it blow at 100V :lol: .. the 70-99V is an unknown reagion.. but REMEMBER THAT THIS LITTLE CHIP IS RATED 60V input if i remember correctly.
same on the astroflight meter, wattsup meter etc..
Doc
Doctorbass
100 GW
TMaster said:
Hmm.. not sure it's easy just like you expect...
The resistive voltage divider might also need to be modified to cary more voltage..
if only it would just be a questin of voltage reulator, by using an external low voltage source to supply the display, it could work but...
Doc
I'm not sure how it works inside, but what area's would have to be changed? It has the display and I'm guessing the circuit that reads the data comming though?
I'm guessing we'd have to take one apart and trace the circuit and see everything that needs to be changed. FInd what components are what etc...
I did take the one I have apart here once and to actually get to the circuits you have to un-solder one of the boards from the other. I'm willing to take my next one apart and give it a shot, or even donate it to be modified or figured out.
I'm guessing we'd have to take one apart and trace the circuit and see everything that needs to be changed. FInd what components are what etc...
I did take the one I have apart here once and to actually get to the circuits you have to un-solder one of the boards from the other. I'm willing to take my next one apart and give it a shot, or even donate it to be modified or figured out.
skeetab5780
1 MW
i finally ordered one of thee things a few minutes ago. cant wait to be able to monitor my ah's and watts ive been guessing for 2 long.
AussieJester
1 TW
DocBass...how far over 70volts would you predict it would go before magical smoke appeared? Would 72v be pushing it
In your expert opinion, me needs it too work say it will Doc pleeeease say it will... :lol:
KiM
In your expert opinion, me needs it too work say it will Doc pleeeease say it will... :lol:
KiM
liveforphysics
100 TW
AussieJester said:
Keep a low ESR cap on the power leads directly off the meter on both sides, and it will have a lot better shot at surviving 72v.
AussieJester
1 TW
liveforphysics said:AussieJester said:
Keep a low ESR cap on the power leads directly off the meter on both sides, and it will have a lot better shot at surviving 72v.
C'mon Luke you should know better than that, this is me your talkin to buddy LoL WTF is a ESR cap? And having this wont effect the 'juice' the motor gets? Itz your fault you know that too right LMAO... Yeah i'll be thankin you even more when i have it on 66v i know i know
KiM
