Vector bike and frame owners.

[scrambler]

Giving its dimensions would help
There are a few posts with internal dimension below
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=68385&start=400#p1210779

 

[Joachim]

i think 450mm max in lengt so will fit my frame,to long...i can cut the pack in two :lol:

 

[Artur]

will this battery fit the vector frame?i can buy this for a good price:20S-8P panasonic 25R cells so 72volt-20Ah
bms is a 80A continue-120A peak.

Size?

 

[Joachim]

Fits perfect in the vector bike
i have a volt sag of 6 Volt@108 battery amps....20s-8p 25R pack so 0.3V per cell sag,to much sag?i can set the max Amps to 75A.
Top speed cromotor V1 like 80km/h
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky49wIDddUw&feature=youtu.be

 

[Artur]

Black Friday is open on our web site!

 

[Artur]

For those who were asking about how to install a headset. We took a photo of a disassembled headset and put it in the proper sequence of its installation.
Two lower compression rings which are standing one on the left and one on the right shouldn't be installed simultaneously. You need to choose the proper one which will fit your fork.

Best regards,
Anastasia from Vector team.

 

[Artur]

Hello guys,
I am interested in your opinion.

This April we have sold a bike to one person. He received fully assembled bike, ready to ride. After some time he had "halls" error on his screen. I told him he need a controller to be repaired, so he disconnect it and send controller to Adaptto. Then he received repaired controller back and with my advices connected it back on bike.
Everything was OK untill tomorrow (5-6 month after), when his bike got on fire wile he was riding in a forest (as he said). Now we can not find out the reason what was the problem, was it his mistake during assembling all electronics when he get controller back, or controller mistake, or bms, or.... But we know that this person used some non original bolts that may be longer then original and damage a battery, or the battery was not secured good enough and fit the frame during riding. Also he made some modifications on a side panels (dont know about other parts as now they all gone). I dont know about other parts as I have not seen the bike or picture of the bike after client received repaired controller. Maby he didn't instal c63 or whatever.. I don't know how well he did all the connections. This is why I beliave I can not be responsible on something that was done by client himself and was not inspected after this by us.
I asked the person to send me the frame, controller and rear wheel to inspect it. And offer 50% discount for all parts he may need to build a new bike.
He refuses to cover shipping to me of this parts and he told me that it is my fault and I should offer him a brand new bike as a warranty replacement case.
What do you think about all this?

 

[steam25]

so he changed parts himself and ride it many month?
he refused send back parts to find out what happend and prevent this happen to other customers?
and then he refuse the chance to get a brand new bike for half money even you dont need to do that but want show nice? sounds very suspicious... situation sucks but it seems he dont want get things done and just blame vector for this. any chance to see something about this?

 

[miunchy]

Artur, do you have photos of your disassembled battery to see inner wire connections of it?

 

[Artur]

Artur, do you have photos of your disassembled battery to see inner wire connections of it?

can you see it?

 

[miunchy]

In my opinion the quality of the battery is good. He said that it happen while riding in forest, so it could be because of shaking and vibration.I think it was short circuit in power line. But who's fault- nobody knows. In such cases 50%/50% is the best way to make peace.
Do you have photos of another (bottom side of the battery with main power cables)?

 

[Artur]

In my opinion the quality of the battery is good. He said that it happen while riding in forest, so it could be because of shaking and vibration.I think it was short circuit in power line. But who's fault- nobody knows. In such cases 50%/50% is the best way to make peace.
Do you have photos of another (bottom side of the battery with main power cables)?

main power cables are on a photo, on a right side. I am preaty sure this is not a problem of the battery itself as I have prety much the same battery for more then 2 years of riding, and 15+ other clients.. no bad comments from them. And taking into account he was riding over half a year I may assume he charged it 50+ times.. I think the problem here is how well he connected battery to the frame, or maby some longer (non original) bolts from side panel just pushed the battery. now it is hard to say as the battery is burned. I offered 50/50 as you said, but he dont like it.. :|

 

[miunchy]

Frame is also damaged by fire, any photos?

 

[Artur]

Frame is also damaged by fire, any photos?

whole bike burned at the end.. we can repair the frame.. but for this I need to have it first , lol

 

[madin88]

In my opinion the quality of the battery is good

You're not serious, are you?
There are only two (10mm?) sheets welded for the current flow of 15P!!!!!! cells, and the main wires are attached to only one single strip.
aside from that there seems to be no additional insulation between the serial groups.
This is one of the MOST IMPORTANT things when building a pack out of 18650 cells, because the stock shrink tube alone is too weak (regarding pressure and vibrations).

was it the users fault or not, this battery i would not use on ebike where it probably will be strapped down and subjected to large vibrations.

 

[Artur]

In my opinion the quality of the battery is good

You're not serious, are you?
There are only two (10mm?) sheets welded for the current flow of 15P!!!!!! cells, and the main wires are attached to only one single strip.
aside from that there seems to be no additional insulation between the serial groups.
This is one of the MOST IMPORTANT things when building a pack out of 18650 cells, because the stock shrink tube alone is too weak (regarding pressure and vibrations).

was it the users fault or not, this battery i would not use on ebike where it probably will be strapped down and subjected to large vibrations.

thank you for feedback. I must say it is not 0.2-0.3mm nickel, that goes to main wires, we tested it for discharge test on the maxumum current we use on our bikes and they were absolutley OK. I will upload video soon to show the test. I must say I use the battery for 2 years so far.. they are glued to each other so they are solid as a brick, and there is no minimal movement between them to cause a damage of shrink. each cell the=at are near another group is glued on 3 sides minimum (most of them on 4 sides). it is dead solid.

 

[steam25]

In my opinion the quality of the battery is good

You're not serious, are you?
There are only two (10mm?) sheets welded for the current flow of 15P!!!!!! cells, and the main wires are attached to only one single strip.
aside from that there seems to be no additional insulation between the serial groups.
This is one of the MOST IMPORTANT things when building a pack out of 18650 cells, because the stock shrink tube alone is too weak (regarding pressure and vibrations).

was it the users fault or not, this battery i would not use on ebike where it probably will be strapped down and subjected to large vibrations.

what are you talking there? batteries looking ground solid. and i can see they are using fat nickel and not the 08/15 standard 36v 250w superslim nickel strips.
my batteries are the same inside and i am drawing 150-200amps at 88V from them since years. going up stairs, jumps and stuff. not one battery got loose over the years or fail. the only reason i had a bad cell one time was when i didnt attach the battery tight enough inside frame and it scratched on one of the inner bolts. i saw it, change the little damaged cell, that pack is still fine and in use after 2,5 years. was my fault

i build enough batteries and saw much worse than this but rated from shop with higher current. i also think the battery got lose and some of the wires shorted.
too bad and such coincidence that the bike obviously burned down so nobody can see what really happend here.
like miunchy said: 50/50 would be fair for everybody and i am surprised he even offered that. but when the owner of the bike refuse... his own fault.

by the way: why the whole bike burned down? i would do everything and get that fire out with sand when he ride in a forest. or kick the battery out when side panels are off or use a long stick to push it away instead of watch it burn and think "naaaaw i will get a new one later for free"
and yes i saw 18650 packs burn. its not like a tactical nuke going off even its spectacular

 

[madin88]

what are you talking there? batteries looking ground solid.
my batteries are the same inside and i am drawing 150-200amps at 88V from them since years

Ground solid? :lol: :lol:
so you believe that equal current flow isn't important and that there is no need of additional insualtion between s-groups?
please make a video of such battery under load at 150-200A, or something like 80A real continuous!!!

like miunchy said: 50/50 would be fair for everybody and i am surprised he even offered that. but when the owner of the bike refuse... his own fault.

i agree, it is a good deal from Artur.
however, without knowing the reason for the fire, would you want to buy the same thing again?

by the way: why the whole bike burned down? i would do everything and get that fire out with sand when he ride in a forest. or kick the battery out when side panels are off or use a long stick to push it away instead of watch it burn and think "naaaaw i will get a new one later for free"
and yes i saw 18650 packs burn. its not like a tactical nuke going off even its spectacular

you would need to open the sidecover bolts first (probabaly without any gloves).
doing so, you will breath in lots of toxic smoke, and in the moment you take the cover off, there is a good chance that a fireball will hit you because now much more oxgen can come in touch with the fire.

 

[steam25]

good point on the side covers. i cant blame the guy for not try to get the fire out. some bikes have plastic covers. not sure what he had there.

i build batteries for many years. and yes i made videos where we test 100-120 amps for similar packs for long periods of time. and i build much bigger packs with 300-400 amps for motorbikes. never had any problem if the straps are thick enough. and yes at that point the cells where fan cooled and we use distance holders in my factory between series interlinks. but 72v and 140A for less than 10 or even 5 seconds isnt a problem for glued packs.
i mean: they look good on the photo and without any other information i will not talk more about them. adaptto draw 130-140amps current for just some seconds right?
i use controllers now with higher power and all batteries similar to the one in photo are fine with that (many years and many pcs). dont want fight with you about this but do you really think the battery is main reason the whole bike got on fire suddenly after 5 month riding the bike? not the chance that some wires came loose and melted themself together? and did you build a battery before and it catch fire maybe or why you have this opinion? dont get me wrong i really asking nice here.

about knowing the reason of the fire: didnt artur said the customer refused to send the burned parts back for investigation? we cant say for sure what happend without more background info. and thats impossible because there is no more proof than the guys word. what if he changed something inside over the 5-6 month period of riding? changed wiring again? battery came loose, use different bolts...so many details , artur only have customers word for.
and yes i would buy another bike if i have the chance to get it for half price brand new.
even i dont have a vector bike yet. and its obviously the first one got on fire. but like i said: i would at least send the broken bike back and let the company handle it even i dont want ride vector anymore.

its a bad situation for everyone and i hope they can figure it out in peace.

 

[Artur]

[youtube]jwE-YoY2crU[/youtube]

 

[Artur]

[youtube]9PKyVg0756g[/youtube]

 

[Artur]

[youtube]i-fJNXQIHL4[/youtube]

 

[DasDouble]

It´s the customers fault. By changing anything on the bike which he was not supposed to do, he has lost his warranty. That´s it. Every bicycle store will tell me the same, if I change anything on my Bosch Pedelec. Even when I change the handlebars without them telling me to do so, while it is really unusual that I should do this by myself as they change it most of the times by their local mechanics, I would loose my warranty too. This should be ridden on the contract of Vector or Vector´s webside to avoid trouble with a lawyer which will defnitly happen one day. We can feel lucky that it didn´t burned a house or worse hurted someone. For this Artur I would recommend you to write this into your contracts. Only what stands in the contract or any sort like this counts in such case. You better manage this today then tomorrow as I would bet my Vector Built that one day you will need to show a judge something like this.

 

[DasDouble]

Artur, do you have photos of your disassembled battery to see inner wire connections of it?

can you see it?

Do you really need this rubber thing on the cells positive side? Does this protect the cell from getting scratched by the nickel or what? :|
I ask this because I haven´t built this on my 3 x "4s, 15p" packs..

 

[steam25]

these sticky things are protectors made of paper. you dont need them most cases, but they are good to have on glued packs. usually you dont need them if you use distance plastic holders. but to safe space inside the bike you can build packs like this.