Wattster
10 W
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2022
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How do you do that?
Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers
- Thread starter Stefanj.
- Start date
...to enter the calibration mode, you need to remove 0 from error count field, and with the key pressed " Shift", press twice " ~ ". You need to have english keyboard layout from windows settings.
Can you use another phone? Its never happens for BT recently.
Last edited:
nipunahasanka
1 µW
I also NEED VOTOL EM50 Firmware.
paolomikaello
1 µW
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the video is already in private
i can make new public video in future and post it here.the video is already in private
Eastwood
100 kW
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- Jan 13, 2021
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This controller 
should be released less than one month. I may order this controller as its competitor, The "far driver", seems to have bugs and glitches from the Feedback. Well, the far driver seems like a decent controller, It just seems that the software could be perfected more.
should be released less than one month. I may order this controller as its competitor, The "far driver", seems to have bugs and glitches from the Feedback. Well, the far driver seems like a decent controller, It just seems that the software could be perfected more.paolomikaello
1 µW
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how can i view the video
is there a possible way you can giveme permission to view the video please
Have you looked at the problems posted about the Votol software? Are they ones you can live with vs the ones with the other controller(s) you've looked at?
(all of the brands of programmable controllers have problems with their setup software, and some of them with their actual on-controller firmware).
Note that new versions of anything are likely to be more buggy (hardware and software) than existing user-tested versions, so if you go that route, you may want to consider yourself the alpha tester (since the existing products too-often seem to be like beta versions).
Eastwood
100 kW
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- Jan 13, 2021
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No, I haven’t looked into the software issues with Votol. Also, I haven’t made up my mind with what controller I’m using just trying to find all the possible options. The one thing I have heard about the votol is you have much more control with the throttle response compared to the far driver.
But yeah, I’ll read back through this thread to see what issues people have reported back.
Note that new versions of anything are likely to be more buggy (hardware and software) than existing user-tested versions, so if you go that route, you may want to consider yourself the alpha tester (since the existing products too-often seem to be like beta versions).
Yes, I couldn’t agree more! I typically don’t like to buy first generation of anything as there’s always kinks to work out.
With the FOC type controllers including these, the throttle should typically control phase current (instead of voltage), so it is directly controlling torque of the motor instead of motor speed. This means that even very basic throttle response options allow you to control the motor "power" (torque, really) more finely than the more typical controllers from ebikes that use speed control (where they just vary the PWM duty cycle, that changes the average voltage applied to the motor, which indirectly changes the current and torque).
You can also use a physically different throttle in some way--most effectively by using a cable-operated throttle so you can test out different electrical throttle types, or "change the gearing" between them in different ways (using pulleys you can change the shape or ratio of pulleys, etc), using logarithmic pots instead of linear. etc. Using a throttle with the sensor in the handlebar portion limits you to whatever is already built or designing your own, etc., or uisng something like an arduino or cycle analyst, etc., to modify the signal that is produced by teh sensor so it matches the curve you want at the controller input (assuming the controller doesn't do this internally).
You can also use a physically different throttle in some way--most effectively by using a cable-operated throttle so you can test out different electrical throttle types, or "change the gearing" between them in different ways (using pulleys you can change the shape or ratio of pulleys, etc), using logarithmic pots instead of linear. etc. Using a throttle with the sensor in the handlebar portion limits you to whatever is already built or designing your own, etc., or uisng something like an arduino or cycle analyst, etc., to modify the signal that is produced by teh sensor so it matches the curve you want at the controller input (assuming the controller doesn't do this internally).
Has anyone managed to activate/deactivate either the "speed limit" (24:speed_limit) or "downhill electric brake assist" (32:hill_down_disable) functions?
I've tried via three different ports (PD0, PD1 and PD3), with every permutation of IO, SW, LA, F, U, D checked/unchecked. To no avail.
I verified the ports function for their regular assigned power control functions.
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The background is I built what's known in these parts as a "mobility scooter".
The legal limit for them here is 10km/hr on the flat, and I need to be able to switch it into a legal mode when required.
I tried the "3 speed" settings. They control current, not RPM. Practically useless to me. Yes, I found a setting (10%) that effectively limited speed to 10km/hr, but it can't climb an incline, and a tailwind would tip it over the legal speed limit.
However, with the right combination of "speed limit setting" and "HDC lowrst speed" it was possible to throttle RPM. There's overshoot, it's jerky, the throttle settings do not scale alongside these speed limits, and is not a mode you'd actually want to actually drive the vehicle in, but does satisfy the requirement of capping speed at 10km/hr.
Now, the issue is how to switch in and out of this mode. 24:speed_limit or 32:hill_down_disable, ought to do it.
But are they actually enabled? Can anyone verify this?
Can any port be assigned to any function? Do I need to try other ports?
I've tried via three different ports (PD0, PD1 and PD3), with every permutation of IO, SW, LA, F, U, D checked/unchecked. To no avail.
I verified the ports function for their regular assigned power control functions.
-------------------------------------------------
The background is I built what's known in these parts as a "mobility scooter".
The legal limit for them here is 10km/hr on the flat, and I need to be able to switch it into a legal mode when required.
I tried the "3 speed" settings. They control current, not RPM. Practically useless to me. Yes, I found a setting (10%) that effectively limited speed to 10km/hr, but it can't climb an incline, and a tailwind would tip it over the legal speed limit.
However, with the right combination of "speed limit setting" and "HDC lowrst speed" it was possible to throttle RPM. There's overshoot, it's jerky, the throttle settings do not scale alongside these speed limits, and is not a mode you'd actually want to actually drive the vehicle in, but does satisfy the requirement of capping speed at 10km/hr.
Now, the issue is how to switch in and out of this mode. 24:speed_limit or 32:hill_down_disable, ought to do it.
But are they actually enabled? Can anyone verify this?
Can any port be assigned to any function? Do I need to try other ports?
Starting to think this controller's vaporware. Can anyone recommend an alternative to me that would achieve the speed limit feature I require?
Must handle at least 84v, 30A battery current, 24,000 eRPM, and have configurable throttle voltage. Any other features (besides speed limit) are redundant.
Must handle at least 84v, 30A battery current, 24,000 eRPM, and have configurable throttle voltage. Any other features (besides speed limit) are redundant.
Vaporware would imply it doesn't exist at all, which is definitely not true.
One might say it's got some poor design choices in the setup software, or at least in translation of what exactly some parameters do...but this is true of nearly every typical controller out there.
How about an external speed limiting solution? There are a few ways to do it.
The Cycle Analyst from ebikes.ca has several ways to deal with speed limiting, and has a number of other useful functions as well (such as battery usage and power and speed monitoring, etc). It can be used with any controller that has a throttle input. Your throttle signal goes into the CA (instead of the controller), along with the speed sensor input, and any other sensors (temperature, current, votlage, etc) you want monitored by it, and it then processes all of these per your settings and sends the appropriate throttle signal out to the controller.
Then you can set the controller for the max settings you will need from it, and then do whatever limiting you need to do from the CA.
If the CA isn't waht you want, then you could use an arduino or other MCU system to read a speed sensor and your throttle signal, then limit the throttle output based on the speed and your program. I would bet there are already open source projects on places like arduino.cc and github with all the code/etc to do this (even if they ahve to be adapted to your exact purpose).
Fair enough, thanks. I didn't realise all the programmable controllers were poorly implemented, it's the first one I've used.
You're right, not vaporware, I'm just concerned some of the features are vapor, or somehow inaccessible in the firmware versions made public.
A variation on external speed limiting would be to use two (differently configured) Votols in parallel and switch between them. Provides redundancy if one fails. And USD$50 for an EM-30S is a bargain.
Requirements can change, controller's can be repurposed in different vehicles, etc, so the flexibility of having 56 selectable features (including one called "speed limit") and 16 assignable ports is appealing.
I'm still up for the battle of configuring it, assuming it's a winnable battle. Just need some indication from other users as to whether it's worth persisting.
You're right, not vaporware, I'm just concerned some of the features are vapor, or somehow inaccessible in the firmware versions made public.
A variation on external speed limiting would be to use two (differently configured) Votols in parallel and switch between them. Provides redundancy if one fails. And USD$50 for an EM-30S is a bargain.
Requirements can change, controller's can be repurposed in different vehicles, etc, so the flexibility of having 56 selectable features (including one called "speed limit") and 16 assignable ports is appealing.
I'm still up for the battle of configuring it, assuming it's a winnable battle. Just need some indication from other users as to whether it's worth persisting.
Mikek
1 µW
Is anyone aware of the Votol EM 150 controller emitting a beep for any reason, while riding? Beep is a soft clear scooter horn sound. I'm assuming it comes from the controller? Everything appears to operate normally, no alarms on the display, doesn't sound anything like my own horn. Is there a log file you can download from the controller? Only happens maybe once everytime I ride, under various levels of power, just can't get the pattern. I thought it may be heat related, but none of the components are more than warm to the touch?
It's drivin' me cray-yay-zyyy
It's drivin' me cray-yay-zyyy
Unfortunately having read about many people's problems over the years, and dealt with a few of them myself directly and via forum troubleshooting threads, I've become a bit soured on the abilities of the various companies' "software engineers" to deliver a truly useful, minimal-bug, and user-friendly product. Some are better than others, but depending on a specific usage or system, they all have one issue or another (most have several to many).
That's certainly possible. Also, some systems only have certain parameters accessible via a Bluetooth type phone/device app, with others only accessible via a wired-connection computer-based setup program. I don't know off the top of my head which ones are like that, but there are posts about it here and there. :/
Sure, but it's probably safest to stop and rewire the system (at minimum the motor phase/hall wires) from one to the other everytime you do this, unless you have them driving separate motors. (you could just directly wire them in parallel and only turn on one at a time, but any glitch that causes or allows the other to do something could damage it or the operating controller, or cause undesired operation. there are other considerations like electrical loading of two parallel sets of connections/components, too that may affect operation in ways you'd have to test for by actually using it this way).
Does the controller actually have a beeper inside it or on it's PCB? If not, then it isn't making the sound.
Does the scooter have a BMS on it's battery? Does the BMS have a beeper on it?
A motor could make an unusual sound if it is being driven wrong or has a winding / wiring issue causing incorrect current flow.
If you have a phone or other device you can put a sound recording app on, you could secure it next to the controller and then in other places on the scooter (battery, motor) during a ride to see if it is actually coming from there.
Personally, I'd expect that any fault serious enough to require an audible alarm should also show up on the display and any blink codes it might have, but there's no guarantee that the programmers thought that way (probably they wouldn't).
Why you don't use 3-speed for different speed settings?
Unfortunately the 3-speed feature restricts current, not voltage or RPM.
The speed limit/downhill feature(s) limits RPM. I just can’t figure out how to activate/deactivate either of them on the fly.
I don’t know which ports to assign or what type of signals to use. Neither will work on the default sport and 3-speed ports, which are triggered by grounding the 3v yellow-white, green-white, and black-white wires.
The speed limit/downhill feature(s) limits RPM. I just can’t figure out how to activate/deactivate either of them on the fly.
I don’t know which ports to assign or what type of signals to use. Neither will work on the default sport and 3-speed ports, which are triggered by grounding the 3v yellow-white, green-white, and black-white wires.