Hi,
Welche SW-Version? Welcher Controller? Welche Batterie (Spannung)
Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers
- Thread starter Stefanj.
- Start date
Welche SW-Version? Welcher Controller? Welche Batterie (Spannung)
christianalexzappa
1 mW
How much of this have I gotten right? (Collected by scrolling/Fact checking through this forum, Youtube and various manuals).
Attached is the default EM150.ini from SIAEcoSys
Attached is the default EM150.ini from SIAEcoSys
Thunder_blade
10 mW
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2019
- Messages
- 23
No metter. just for loking parameters of motor: pole pair, angle shift etc....
5 pole pairs, hall shift angle = 60 (default) after self-learning = 53 (for me)
Thunder_blade
10 mW
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2019
- Messages
- 23
Thanks
Kadagazov
1 µW
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2022
- Messages
- 4
Hi all! Hope someone here can help me.
I have EM30s and QS90 middrive, but cannot find any configs for it. Wondering, which values should i use for flux weakening. As i understand, values from EM150 are not acceptable ((
What settings i need to get maximum torque on start? If i don't need a high top speed at all.
Thanks a lot in advance!
I have EM30s and QS90 middrive, but cannot find any configs for it. Wondering, which values should i use for flux weakening. As i understand, values from EM150 are not acceptable ((
What settings i need to get maximum torque on start? If i don't need a high top speed at all.
Thanks a lot in advance!
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Hello, I’ll be tuning a QS 138 mid drive soon. I have a Votol EM150 controller that came with my kit directly from QS.
My question is, what exactly is the Busbar Current and Current Limiting options? What should I set these to? Does this pertain to the battery exactly?
Thanks!
My question is, what exactly is the Busbar Current and Current Limiting options? What should I set these to? Does this pertain to the battery exactly?
Thanks!
When I connected a 3 speed switch I didn’t notice a change in the Votol tuning software. L, M and H all were able to achieve the same RPM’s. The wheel seemed to spin at the same rate. This is for an em150 and 138 70h v3 motor. Shouldn’t Low only be able to go to a certain RPM? Then Medium a bit higher with High being the most?
Is the switch setup in the software to control RPM limit, or does it control throttle max percentage/etc? Or does it control current limit?
A0FAIK the Votol uses the throttle to modulate motor torque (phase-current), so it's more likley that the switch controls something about current. If it does, then you would probably only see a difference in response to switch position with the motor loaded down (like when riding). If you're doing a no-load bench test, it might not have any apparent effect.
A0FAIK the Votol uses the throttle to modulate motor torque (phase-current), so it's more likley that the switch controls something about current. If it does, then you would probably only see a difference in response to switch position with the motor loaded down (like when riding). If you're doing a no-load bench test, it might not have any apparent effect.
I am just bench testing with the rear wheel off the ground, so this could be why I’m not really sensing any difference. I’m not honestly sure what it controls. On my last project with a QS 260 Hub motor it appeared to changed RPMs per switch setting. I recall Low mode reaching a lower RPM number than Medium and high mode having the highest RPM number.
I’ll wait until the project is completed and see. I also don’t recall if this changed the speed or how fast you can get to max speed like a torque rating instead. I can see in the software it change settings as I move the switch so it’s doing something..
What settings do you have available in the software for it?
Was it the same model of same controller with same firmware and same settings for everything relevant to this in setup? If not, any of those things could be why it is different...not knowing what they were and what they are in this one, can't say which it might be.
FWIW, for a torque-control system, without a load even the "how fast it reaches a speed" can appear the same, as it should take very little current to get to max speed quite rapidly; unless there is an extremely limited current available.
@amberwolf thanks for your help. Yes, same controller EM150 and same Votol software. Only difference is the motors. I’m going to wait and test this out once I get the bike on the road and go from there. It maybe a torque value and not a speed value that it changes as you mentioned. It would be cool to know for others as well. Thanks!
You're welcome--if there are no settings specific to the switch's function and levels, and it's just hardcoded, then the most likely thing is that it modulates the amount of torque the throttle is allowed to command, given that it doesn't change the speed....
Was the previous motor's testing done only onground with a load, or was it also behaving as expected in bench testing?
Was the previous motor's testing done only onground with a load, or was it also behaving as expected in bench testing?
abcaste1006
1 µW
Hi, can someone help me wire this up please.
My old system was like this:
- In the first photo the yellow and red cables are for the physical key. White and blue for the screen.
-In the second photo: Red was the + of the battery, blue and green for each directional. I think the black went to GND, but when measuring the voltage it gave a lower value and when the brake was pressed a higher voltage, so the brake light was always on and when the scooter was braked it would light up even more.
-All my lights run on 60v.
- Finally, in the third photo are the cables of each brake.
-I also attach the screen model and the wiring diagram that my model has.
I really don't know how to connect any of these cables or the necessary settings in the software. Currently I have the front light and turn signals working but not the stop light or the display.
Thanks in advance
My old system was like this:
- In the first photo the yellow and red cables are for the physical key. White and blue for the screen.
-In the second photo: Red was the + of the battery, blue and green for each directional. I think the black went to GND, but when measuring the voltage it gave a lower value and when the brake was pressed a higher voltage, so the brake light was always on and when the scooter was braked it would light up even more.
-All my lights run on 60v.
- Finally, in the third photo are the cables of each brake.
-I also attach the screen model and the wiring diagram that my model has.
I really don't know how to connect any of these cables or the necessary settings in the software. Currently I have the front light and turn signals working but not the stop light or the display.
Thanks in advance
Attachments
We'll need a fair bit more information to help you out, so there are questions below. When answering, keep in mind that more detail is better, and more likely to help us help you. 
What exactly did the old system consist of?
Do you have a complete wiring diagram of the old system? That would help tremendously in wiring up the new one.
Where the key is wired depends on exactly what it needs to do for you. Most often it is wired between the controller's lock / KSI / keyswitch / ignition / etc wie and the battery positive, when the controller has such a function that runs on that voltage.
Without the manual's definitions of each of the things in the wiring diagram, I would guess that in your case the keyswitch would connect one wire to each of the "Anti-theft" pins on the controller.
Or is it a display that lets you change setttings in the controller, etc?
Did this display come with the controller you are hooking it up to? Or is it from a different one? If so, which one? (displays are not generally intercompatible with different controllers, depending on exactly what the display is and does).
If the screen only have white and blue, nothing else, then it seems unlikely to work if it is anything like other displays; most have at least four wires, some several more. Is it getting power or other inputs from other wires that are already connected elsewhere?
Brake lights can be wired in a few ways, some of them use a common ground and some use a common positive. The switches might be wired between any of the lights and ground or positive depending on the brake lights themselves, and the rest of the system wiring.
What did the red wire connect to on the old system?
What did the black wire connect to on the old system?
Which settings are you referring to?
Are these in the controller, using computer-based setup software? (or an app)? Which version of software (or app) are you using, and how is it being connected to the controller?
If you mean for lighting controls, the controller does not generally operate any lighting; that is usually done with external switches or relays.
If you mean for motor settings, that depends on your specific motor and whatever the controller's manual says to use for it, and your specific usage and conditions. (because you need to make sure the controller is set to not allow more power than the motor can handle, but still enough to do the job you need the bike to do).
If you mean for your battery settings, that depends on your specific battery, the controller's manual, and your specific usage and conditions (because you need to make sure the controller is set to not use more current than the battery can deliver, or go too low in voltage).
Just to make sure: What exactly is your goal? What specifically do you need to be wired up, and what functions do you need it to have when complete?
Is the "old system" a different bike, or was it a previous set of equipment on this one?
What exactly did the old system consist of?
Do you have a complete wiring diagram of the old system? That would help tremendously in wiring up the new one.
Where did they connect in the original system?
Where the key is wired depends on exactly what it needs to do for you. Most often it is wired between the controller's lock / KSI / keyswitch / ignition / etc wie and the battery positive, when the controller has such a function that runs on that voltage.
Without the manual's definitions of each of the things in the wiring diagram, I would guess that in your case the keyswitch would connect one wire to each of the "Anti-theft" pins on the controller.
What specifically does the screen do in your system? Is it just an information display (if so, what information)?
Or is it a display that lets you change setttings in the controller, etc?
Did this display come with the controller you are hooking it up to? Or is it from a different one? If so, which one? (displays are not generally intercompatible with different controllers, depending on exactly what the display is and does).
If the screen only have white and blue, nothing else, then it seems unlikely to work if it is anything like other displays; most have at least four wires, some several more. Is it getting power or other inputs from other wires that are already connected elsewhere?
Well, the black couldn't go to ground if it gave any voltages at all. That's what ground is for, is a reference to be 0V to "compare" the voltages to.
Brake lights can be wired in a few ways, some of them use a common ground and some use a common positive. The switches might be wired between any of the lights and ground or positive depending on the brake lights themselves, and the rest of the system wiring.
What did the red wire connect to on the old system?
What did the black wire connect to on the old system?
Is your present battery a 60v battery? If not, you'll need a DC-DC converter to provide the 60v the lights use, out of whatever your battery voltage is.
I didn't see a wiring diagram for the screen, or a screen model, just a controller diagram and model. There is a picture of a display with a keyswitch below it, but that's all.
Which settings are you referring to?
Are these in the controller, using computer-based setup software? (or an app)? Which version of software (or app) are you using, and how is it being connected to the controller?
If you mean for lighting controls, the controller does not generally operate any lighting; that is usually done with external switches or relays.
If you mean for motor settings, that depends on your specific motor and whatever the controller's manual says to use for it, and your specific usage and conditions. (because you need to make sure the controller is set to not allow more power than the motor can handle, but still enough to do the job you need the bike to do).
If you mean for your battery settings, that depends on your specific battery, the controller's manual, and your specific usage and conditions (because you need to make sure the controller is set to not use more current than the battery can deliver, or go too low in voltage).
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abcaste1006
1 µW
I'm sorry for the poor wording and confusions, this is a translation.
thanks for reply
In short: wire display and stop light.
I mean the previous controller
It was a Chinese driver like this, in general they have almost no information even in internet
As i said it, to the key, when it turns they make contact.
it was a simple display, it only showed speed and battery charge.
It is the one that originally came with the motorcycle, I don't know which one it is because it had an identification but it was erased. That's the problem because I can't look for connection diagrams, otherwise it would be easy to wire
I think that for the old controller it was enough because the key cable also gave VCC and the blue data and the white GND? I don't know
I think it was a common positive system, since the turn signal switches were open and when they were activated they gave GND to the blue and green cables. The thing is, the black wire was some kind of fake GND. Normally between red and black it had 50V and when the brake was activated it had 60V. This is the part that I don't understand because between the red and the turn signals I normally had an open circuit and when I activated it I had 60V.
It is the same battery, in fact if I connect the black cable to GND I have Rear Red Taillight. But at maximum brightness, and it should be less so that when braking it lights up more
Yes, I was referring to the document with the controller pins so that you can tell me which pins to connect the screen and the rear light to.
I was referring to the "port settings" on page 4 of the VOTOL pc software, and if necessary activate the "low brake" checkbox on page 3 of the software
thanks for reply
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Ok I was able to figure out my 3 speed switch issue if not changing RPM and power. HDC was turned OFF and it was causing the switch to not make physical changes to the motor….turned it to “ENABLE” and now it does noticeable changes through all 3 modes.
My next question is, on the switch settings. There’s two columns. A left and right. From my understanding the Left side is throttle %? Like how much power the motor is pushing out on that mode and % but I’m not sure what the right side is…I believe a read somewhere one side is high voltage and one is Low. I see so many different values posted everywhere. I looked in the manual but the language translation isn’t clear to me on this and what a good value should be for these areas.
My next question is, on the switch settings. There’s two columns. A left and right. From my understanding the Left side is throttle %? Like how much power the motor is pushing out on that mode and % but I’m not sure what the right side is…I believe a read somewhere one side is high voltage and one is Low. I see so many different values posted everywhere. I looked in the manual but the language translation isn’t clear to me on this and what a good value should be for these areas.
Attachments
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Do you mean the one referred to in this image?
If so, then as long as you use a latching button rather than keyswitch or toggle switch, yes.
If you mean some other antitheft function, you'll need to specify exactly what that is in detail.
If so, then as long as you use a latching button rather than keyswitch or toggle switch, yes.
If you mean some other antitheft function, you'll need to specify exactly what that is in detail.
Yes. So, to block the wheel, I need to apply to the corresponding pin B+?(In this case, 9 pin - electric lock or 6 pin - Anti-theft electric lock)
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Hoping someone can confirm before I order a new key switch. My em150 kit came with a throttle with integrated key and volt meter. I want to run a separate volt meter and key switch, not the one they sent.
For the key switch, I was going to order a two wire universal key switch. One wire goes to purple/grey from the controller the other wire from the key switch to B+ correct?
Cheers!
For the key switch, I was going to order a two wire universal key switch. One wire goes to purple/grey from the controller the other wire from the key switch to B+ correct?
Cheers!
For both of the above posts:
AFAICT the key switch wires between the two Antitheft wires as noted in the most recently posted manual page image, whichever color they are (colors may not always be the same).
But they also list a separate electric lock on a different connector, with no explanation of what the difference is between them (they may be wired to the same point inside the controller). If this is not the same point as the antitheft electric lock, then connecting it to B+ will power on the controller to make the system operate normally. When they are not connected, the controller is then not powered on.
If it is the same point, then it doesn't matter which one you connect to B+ to turn the controller on; and disconnecting it would turn the controller off.
If they are different points, then connecting the two antitheft wires would then do whatever the system does for that function. Some controllers will stay on all the time with it connected and then fight any rotation of the wheel using up battery power doing it. Others may have different functionality (but they will still use up battery power staying on all the time to do whatever is they do, while this is engaged).
But you would have to test this to find out for sure, unless your manual states specifics of functionality.
AFAICT the key switch wires between the two Antitheft wires as noted in the most recently posted manual page image, whichever color they are (colors may not always be the same).
But they also list a separate electric lock on a different connector, with no explanation of what the difference is between them (they may be wired to the same point inside the controller). If this is not the same point as the antitheft electric lock, then connecting it to B+ will power on the controller to make the system operate normally. When they are not connected, the controller is then not powered on.
If it is the same point, then it doesn't matter which one you connect to B+ to turn the controller on; and disconnecting it would turn the controller off.
If they are different points, then connecting the two antitheft wires would then do whatever the system does for that function. Some controllers will stay on all the time with it connected and then fight any rotation of the wheel using up battery power doing it. Others may have different functionality (but they will still use up battery power staying on all the time to do whatever is they do, while this is engaged).
But you would have to test this to find out for sure, unless your manual states specifics of functionality.
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Hello!!! I have the same specs as you and was wondering if you could share your current state , is the bike running well? If so would you mind sharing your settings? I am running into some issues regarding my throttle , the bike only seems to work if I have it connected to my computer with my settings , this is 100% due to my controller not saving my settings! Still would like to see the optimal settings you have due to me converting a ktm 125sx
Grimm
100 µW
I have an em-30 and absolutley stumped as to how to get it to talk with the software. I have tried giving the keyswitch batt+ which does show power coming in on the supply, but i get a message "let's open the serial port" over and over. really struggling to figure this out.
I read somewhere that Windows 11 has issues with some device drivers, I ran their driver program but it is still no go.
what exactly is the controller wiring requirements for the pc connection? does it need to have a throttle plugged in? a speed selected? can it connect with just power and usb?
at the price of these controllers, they are hard to ignore, but finding step by step instructions are very difficult. once i know the proper steps, i would be willing to write it out
I read somewhere that Windows 11 has issues with some device drivers, I ran their driver program but it is still no go.
what exactly is the controller wiring requirements for the pc connection? does it need to have a throttle plugged in? a speed selected? can it connect with just power and usb?
at the price of these controllers, they are hard to ignore, but finding step by step instructions are very difficult. once i know the proper steps, i would be willing to write it out