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Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

when i look at the device manager, it says that the serial adaptor is "this is not prolific pl2303 please contact your supplier" even after running the VOTOL driver app as well as installing genuine prolific drivers that are win11 compatible. what do I need to do to get connected?
i placed an order for the bluetooth module, it will be in on Monday, I'll see if that makes any difference.
 
There's lots of counterfeit usb-serial chips out there, and the drivers from the genuine manufacturers have usually been written to not work with antyhing but the genuine stuff (the counterfeit ones don't usually write drivers they just make the clone chips, so there usually aren't any working drivers for them unless you can find older pre-decompatibilized drivers that also still work in your version of windows....which windows itself may be written to disallow.

One old article on the subject

The easiest workaround is to get a genuine-chip cable, if you can find one you're certain of, but some people have gotten the counterfeits to work in some cases.
 
when i look at the device manager, it says that the serial adaptor is "this is not prolific pl2303 please contact your supplier" even after running the VOTOL driver app as well as installing genuine prolific drivers that are win11 compatible. what do I need to do to get connected?
i placed an order for the bluetooth module, it will be in on Monday, I'll see if that makes any difference.
So I turned off updates on my Windows computer and downgraded back to Windows 10. You have to make sure the usb port you are plugging in the controller to is the same com port listed in the Votol software. Check out this guys video:
 
aha! i found a different rs232 to serial cable that IS recognized by windows 11 and once i got the wiring order correct, it read! so Windows 11 will work as long as the cable and adapter are properly recognized. I have a bluetooth module on the way today and will also try that as it would be nice to program without cables.
 
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aha! i found a different rs232 to serial cable that IS recognized by windows 11 and once i got the wiring order correct, it read! so Windows 11 will work as long as the cable and adapter are properly recognized. I have a bluetooth module on the way today and will also try that as it would be nice to program without cables.
Sweet! I keep turning off my updates. Where’d you get the cable and the Bluetooth module?
 
Sweet! I keep turning off my updates. Where’d you get the cable and the Bluetooth module?
I actually think it is from a Kelly controller :p it has the old school threaded serial 9 pin connector and a pcb adaptor that is marked "RS232-SCI-T08"
i soldered on the Votol connector, although the tx and rx colors are different, it worked.
 
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Hello everyone
I have purchased this motor and it works fine with it, I just made some adjustments in the hall because it was at -75 which made a strange noise when starting the boot, I have set it at -60 and it has improved, the torque of poles was at 32, but reviewing the files of the QS3000w motors I have found that it is 16 stops and I have placed this on it. The controller is a 72v Votol EM100 with 80A current at 120 degrees.
What I can't understand is the "flux weakening", because I really don't know how to modify it and according to all the messages in this and other forums the values I have are very low, but that's how the bike works, I just want to configure these parameters properly to prevent future engine damage.
Also the maximum RPM is at 900 and these are the ones that really shows me at maximum speed with the software, only that the speedometer gives me only 47 km/h tire in the air and showing almost 900 RPM on the PC, rolling on the via a GPS on my cell phone I have reached 70 km/h within the city, I have not dared to carry out tests on roads outside the city until I am sure that my engine is not going to break down.
I would appreciate it if you could look at the photos. I can't really find this motor anywhere with this code HB3000W2019090060 from QSmotor, but whoever knows what exact model it is to know its configuration would be very grateful.
 

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so having played with this after getting the software to connect, the EM-30S does not seem to have self calibration. I get the menu to appear with the ~~ in the error field but then on the display page when i click calibrate, it says fault code 00000200 which I can only guess is the controller can't complete the calibration?
 
Hello everyone,
I was messing around with my em-50 controller and its anti theft alarm when a spark happend and now the anti theft won't work anymore, everything elese is functional an ok.
I checked the controller with multimeter and find out that there is no power on pin number 8 of alarm connector on contrpller which is battery + and is used to power the anti theft alarm.
Now i want to if it's possible to repair it and what the problem might be
Thank you
 
Hey i have a tao leo 724, 72v 50ah lithium with a em-100 fontroller i tried to make it faster but now my bike doesn’t throttle anymore, can anyone help me with the right software setting since i don’t know nothing about it
 
Hey i have a tao leo 724, 72v 50ah lithium with a em-100 fontroller i tried to make it faster but now my bike doesn’t throttle anymore, can anyone help me with the right software setting since i don’t know nothing about it

What, specifically and exactly, have you done so far?

Please clearly list every setting change, every hardware change, in order of doing them, and how the bike's behavior changed at every change, along with every test that has been done so far and the results of that test.

That should help us help you find the specific thing(s) that are keeping it from working.

Remember that we only know what you tell us, so if you don't tell us *everything*, any information or help we give you can be completely useless or actually cause you more problems or break things and cost you even more money and time to fix. (and you would be on your own to do that, since we won't know that this is what caused the problem, and wouldn't be able to help you find a solution).
 
Hello everyone,
I was messing around with my em-50 controller and its anti theft alarm when a spark happend and now the anti theft won't work anymore, everything elese is functional an ok.
I checked the controller with multimeter and find out that there is no power on pin number 8 of alarm connector on contrpller which is battery + and is used to power the anti theft alarm.
Now i want to if it's possible to repair it and what the problem might be
Thank you
You’ll have blown a minor branch of the PCB power trace. The conformal coating holds the traces together pretty well, so you got lucky that it ruptured fast enough to prevent more extensive damage. It’s repairable easily enough, but opening the case requires a scalpel and finesse. You needn’t bother though, you can just take power from elsewhere.
 
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What, specifically and exactly, have you done so far?

Please clearly list every setting change, every hardware change, in order of doing them, and how the bike's behavior changed at every change, along with every test that has been done so far and the results of that test.

That should help us help you find the specific thing(s) that are keeping it from working.

Remember that we only know what you tell us, so if you don't tell us *everything*, any information or help we give you can be completely useless or actually cause you more problems or break things and cost you even more money and time to fix. (and you would be on your own to do that, since we won't know that this is what caused the problem, and wouldn't be able to help you find a solution).
finally i made it work, my bike throttles again and everything good, but my bike is a lot slower then before, you got any idea where i can change the speed ?
 
finally i made it work, my bike throttles again and everything good, but my bike is a lot slower then before, you got any idea where i can change the speed ?
Not enough info.
 
There's lots of counterfeit usb-serial chips out there, and the drivers from the genuine manufacturers have usually been written to not work with antyhing but the genuine stuff (the counterfeit ones don't usually write drivers they just make the clone chips, so there usually aren't any working drivers for them unless you can find older pre-decompatibilized drivers that also still work in your version of windows....which windows itself may be written to disallow.

One old article on the subject

The easiest workaround is to get a genuine-chip cable, if you can find one you're certain of, but some people have gotten the counterfeits to work in some cases.
The original PL-2303 chips have several versions. Some of them do not work with older versions of Windows, some do not work with new ones. To determine the version of the chip, the official website prolific has a checkchipversion program. For example, my PL-2303TA doesn't work on Windows 10 and 11, but it works well on Windows 8.1
 

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Good morning at all.
This is my first post in this forum and sorry if I make a mistake.

I has buy a EM30S and work well.

I have only one question about the overvoltage protection.

My battery pack is 14s 8p inr21700 4.8Ah(nominal voltage 52v, full voltage 58.8v)

Can you help me to insert the correct threshold in the firmware?
If I understood correctly, the setting is 58.8v + 2v offset - > overvoltage parameter is 60.8v

My calculations is right? If not, please explain me why? 😅

In the next day I post the right port mapping and the possible option that can be programmed in the controller. Like a Up/down gear button, add the T sensor in the motor when is missing etc.

Thanks and sorry for my strange English 😅
 
Does anyone know what this 72900 em 260 is? It says 900 phase while with the other 260s it says 770 phase but the line current is 450 for both of them. Is it some sorta scam or these are truly different models? The 72900 is also more expensive. If the 72900 really could do the 900 phase it would be just perfect for me.
 
Can someone tell me if the em150 can use a 12v brake switch to cut power to the motor when in use?

Same principle as an e-bike. Say if the motor is spinning and there is throttle applied, you use either brake to kill power to the motor/controller? I have a front brake switch wiring into a 12v circuit off my 72v to 12v converter to power all my lights thanks!
 
Hi Votol enthusiasts. I have just hooked up a votol em80 GTS to a 2000w QS motor. I'm getting no drive from the throttle. I'm using a surron throttle - could that be the issue? I can connect via software although the display page looks blank, should it be reading the voltage etc?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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okay so to answer my own question for anyone else who might have the issue:
This was on:
1696138458476.png
which I think means the controller started up every time in park mode?
I just disabled it like this:

1696138508536.png

now we rolling!
 
hi everyone, i have activate the EABS on my VOTOL-EM100, Could this cause an error in the controller? like the explosion of a capacitor or a mosfet, has anyone ever had a problem with this? I configured the E-ABS to reach 17A only
 
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