Somos un grupo de amantes de la velocidad y quisiéramos asesoramiento d como configurar la m50 para alcanzar su máximo en velocidad tenemos Motor 1500w caja m50 d fabrica y batería Nixon de 30A cualquier ayuda se le agradece,Saludos
Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers
- Thread starter Stefanj.
- Start date
VOTOL serial communication protocol
Hi Guys, I spend some time analyzed the VOTOL serial communication process, and decoded the parameters of rpm, battery voltage, battery current, temperature coefficient, etc so it helps integrate the coulomb-counter in speedo meter, DIY an Arduino based wireless meter or create a Android/ISO APP...
endless-sphere.com
Just to update on the situation with my Votol EM-150/2, I still haven't got it running right even after tweaking every parameter to recommended settings. I actually can't understand why it's behaving the way it is. It will accelerate normally up to a low speed, after that there will be a whining noise coming from the motor and speed will not increase. While it is whining, turning the throttle further causes current draw to continue to increase up to around 68 amps, with no change in motor RPM. The motor is getting very hot in the process, despite no load on it. Sometimes the motor will continue to spin slowly with no throttle input which is utterly bizarre. Does it sound like my motor is simply incompatible somehow or is the controller faulty?
Unless there is something with the sensors that isn't providing the correct signal to the controller for one reason or another, there is very little reason a typical motor would be incompatible with the controller. If you are running sensorless (if the controller is capable of that) then even the sensors wouldn't affect it.
It almost sounds like there's something wierd with Field Weakening setup, if this controller supports that. It would cause excess currents, but normally only above the max speed of the motor.
If your motor is already known and tested to work above that speed with a different controller, same battery voltage, same setup otherwise, then it shouldn't be any different with this one.
If the motor hasn't been verified to work above that speed, maybe it's wound with such a low kV that that really is it's max speed, and FW just can't drive it faster (not every motor works well with FW).
It almost sounds like there's something wierd with Field Weakening setup, if this controller supports that. It would cause excess currents, but normally only above the max speed of the motor.
If your motor is already known and tested to work above that speed with a different controller, same battery voltage, same setup otherwise, then it shouldn't be any different with this one.
If the motor hasn't been verified to work above that speed, maybe it's wound with such a low kV that that really is it's max speed, and FW just can't drive it faster (not every motor works well with FW).
There doesn't seem to be an easy way to program these as the documentation is very bad. Same settings mean different things depending on firmware versions.
If you saved your initial settings might be a good idea to try going from there with just setting the proper pole pairs and do an auto learn. If the issue persists next thing would be disableing field weakening.
I have fw 2.32 and for me setting flux weakening value in sport mode to 0, flux weakening compensation to 0 seems to disable it.
Also the overshoot value (right to the high speed) might be worth playing around with.
Also I've seen some notes that putting a speed percentage less than 100% might do disable FW. So might be worth trying.
If the result is the same, might be worth manually adjusting the phase offset and running some tests.
Note that after each setting you must reset. Using calibration mode exposes the reset button that makes the process much faster without needing to reconnect, even if you're using bluetooth.
Hope this helps.
Last edited:
alexis.calas07
1 µW
Hello friend, I'm new to this, and my English is very bad, I just bought a Votol EM-50S, but I don't know anything, I want to program it with a 70v battery, and a 1000w engine, do you think you can help me? I would like to program it for performance, not for running, I need it to work. Thanks for the help.
Hello. I recently bought a controller Votol EM200/2 sp SW2.32 HW 1.13
I read the whole topic. Can anyone provide a table or drawing of the port-wire color correspondence? Somewhere in the middle of the topic I came across a drawing, but this is for the old version.
Such information would help many in setting up.
I read the whole topic. Can anyone provide a table or drawing of the port-wire color correspondence? Somewhere in the middle of the topic I came across a drawing, but this is for the old version.
Such information would help many in setting up.
Attachments
Thanks for your reply, I tried those settings but unfortunately I think the issue is with the controller because it hasn't changed anything. I tried it with another motor and had the exact same issue, although now it appears the problem is getting worse. When it gets to the point of whining, it will continue delivering around 20 amps with no throttle input. This controller is nothing but an expensive paper weight at this stage, which is unfortunate because I've already gone to the trouble of making a custom mount for it and the supportive wiring. I'd get another one, but after my experience with Siaecosys, I don't want to go through that again. They aren't interested in helping anymore or for me to return the controller at all. Are there any other comparable brands of controllers you could recommend? I was looking at Fardriver but their internals appear to be worse than Votol.
I am sorry to hear that. I have both a votol and a fardriver and as a personal choice I would pick fardriver all day! It's not perfect but it is far easier to setup and get it running properly than the votol. I only got my votol em50-4 due to its dimensions fitting my specific application like a glove, and of course for the very low price. But keep in mind they're both made by Siaecosys and seems that the fardriver phone app keeps only getting worse each update by forcing you to register and bind the controller to your account.
In conclusion, although both my votol and my fardriver are clearly flawed, their dimensions made the fitment excellent and after setting them up they do a far better job than the controllers they replaced.
Brother You must to ask in English if You can!! Or use a Translate aplication.
When you decrease the pole pairs it slows the motor down significantly. I don’t want to slow the motor down i want to bring the speed that is displayed down to match the actual speed of the wheel. What can i change in the controller setup to modify the displayed speed?
If it has a wheel size (diameter, circumference, etc) you could change it to half of what it is now.
Otherwise, you'd have to change whatever settings it has that are directly related to the speed display portion, if it has any others, and see what they do.
Unfortunately there is not much info provided by the manufacturer for these, so what you see in this thread and others like it here and elsewhere is what there is, beyond the "manual". So if you do find which settings fix the issue you see, please post them here so others will have that info when they need it.
Otherwise, you'd have to change whatever settings it has that are directly related to the speed display portion, if it has any others, and see what they do.
Unfortunately there is not much info provided by the manufacturer for these, so what you see in this thread and others like it here and elsewhere is what there is, beyond the "manual". So if you do find which settings fix the issue you see, please post them here so others will have that info when they need it.
This thread is specifically about this particular controller, right? We are all using the same configuration screens am I right? These are the screens i see. I do not see anything about wheel size or RPMs. I am very surprised this is not a common issue, has everyones speed just been spot on when they plug in the controller?If it has a wheel size (diameter, circumference, etc) you could change it to half of what it is now.
Otherwise, you'd have to change whatever settings it has that are directly related to the speed display portion, if it has any others, and see what they do.
Unfortunately there is not much info provided by the manufacturer for these, so what you see in this thread and others like it here and elsewhere is what there is, beyond the "manual". So if you do find which settings fix the issue you see, please post them here so others will have that info when they need it.
Attachments
I don't see any settings on those screens, either.
However:
The screens may be different or show different info, or the settings may affect the controller differently, depending on the specific versions of the setup programs and the specific firmware and hardware versions of the controllers.
Unfortunately changes to all of those things are done by manufacturers without notice to end-users (or anyone else), so info available that works for one combination may not work for others.
There may also be hidden advanced settings not accessible via the setup program, that came preset from the factory to some value you cannot know, that are different in different batches of even the identical versions of hardware/etc.
There can even be bugs in the controller firmware or setup software that change results unintentionally.
Even different sensor hardware can have different outputs...for instance, a hall-sensor-based frame/fork mounted speed sensor (or one inside a motor) may have a latching output that changes only when the polarity of a field changes, or one that changes with every magnet pass, simply detecting that there is or is not a field present. The former will read half the number of pulses that the latter does, and cause a system to show half the speed as the latter.
And the display is a completely separate device with it's own hardware and firmware and settings, which isn't configured by that setup software, so whatever settings it has will also affect what it does with the speed signal it receives. (and that signal can come on some as part of a serial data stream, that has to be correctly interpreted, so if the software of the display expects a different value or stream it may display wrong info)
Etc.
So...even though its' "the same" controller, etc., it isn't necessarily actually identical in behavior or results even with identical settings.
However:
The screens may be different or show different info, or the settings may affect the controller differently, depending on the specific versions of the setup programs and the specific firmware and hardware versions of the controllers.
Unfortunately changes to all of those things are done by manufacturers without notice to end-users (or anyone else), so info available that works for one combination may not work for others.
There may also be hidden advanced settings not accessible via the setup program, that came preset from the factory to some value you cannot know, that are different in different batches of even the identical versions of hardware/etc.
There can even be bugs in the controller firmware or setup software that change results unintentionally.
Even different sensor hardware can have different outputs...for instance, a hall-sensor-based frame/fork mounted speed sensor (or one inside a motor) may have a latching output that changes only when the polarity of a field changes, or one that changes with every magnet pass, simply detecting that there is or is not a field present. The former will read half the number of pulses that the latter does, and cause a system to show half the speed as the latter.
And the display is a completely separate device with it's own hardware and firmware and settings, which isn't configured by that setup software, so whatever settings it has will also affect what it does with the speed signal it receives. (and that signal can come on some as part of a serial data stream, that has to be correctly interpreted, so if the software of the display expects a different value or stream it may display wrong info)
Etc.
So...even though its' "the same" controller, etc., it isn't necessarily actually identical in behavior or results even with identical settings.
h
Ami em 50 ,actualice con el archivo incorrecto y quedó muerta la controladora ,gracias
h
Como puedo encontrar el archivo bin para mi em 50 ,después de una actualización con el archivo incorrecto quedo muerta la controladora ,no me puedo conectar con el controlador
Leoni90
1 µW
Are "Low Brake" and "Parking Line" the same thing?
i have the file from my old votol em100 (no can) SW 2.32 HW 1.13. mid-drive engine 1500W.
biggerpizza
1 mW
Hi guys, plan to buy a EM100 for my bike project. I have some 60V and 48 battery packs at the moment. Just wondering what's the lowest voltage(undervoltage cut off) the EM100 can do? I couldn't find anywhere in the forum.
cheers
cheers
saguim02
1 µW
hello everybody!My first post here on the forum.I have a Votol EM100 that burned out the mosfetes, I recently bought another one like it but it came with a different configuration, I connected the old Votol to the PC to download the settings to transfer to the new Votol, after passing the new settings I connected the new Votol to the motorbike but It does all the functions except the reverse function. Can anyone help me with how to make the motorcycle go in reverse? I have aem port settings in the PB4 option, do you think I should change it to another one?Thanks
alakard
1 µW
Any update on this problem sir?
Hello, I need the original last bin file of votol em150. please let me. moncel1987@hotmail.com Thanks a lot.
