Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[kiwibob]

HI, I'm hoping someone can help with setup of a EM-150 with QS 3000W 138 70H. It runs okay but super low power. the most it'll draw is about 10A. I've had the battery on another bike so I know the battery is good for over 70A, but I can't get this controller to pull any power. Settings:




Thanks in advance!

 

[kiggyo]

Hi kiwibob!

Please attach a "display" tab screen also when it working, when you push the pedal fully.
Maybe we can see something.

My first idea that it is in "reverse" mode, but many other things could cause this.

 

[kiwibob]

Hi kiwibob!

Please attach a "display" tab screen also when it working, when you push the pedal fully.
Maybe we can see something.

My first idea that it is in "reverse" mode, but many other things could cause this.

Here are a couple of shots. It's hard to get it showing a decent amount of revs and pulling a load cos as soon as you put any decent force on the brake it just kills the revs.




Thanks again!

 

[kiggyo]

Hi kiwibob,

I cannot see any problem on these settings, the best if you can ask Carrie at the manufacturer, maybe they can send a config file what will work well.

Tapatalkkal küldve az én Redmi Note 8T eszközömről

 

[Paulflieg]

HI, I'm hoping someone can help with setup of a EM-150 with QS 3000W 138 70H. It runs okay but super low power. the most it'll draw is about 10A. I've had the battery on another bike so I know the battery is good for over 70A, but I can't get this controller to pull any power. Settings:
Page1.PNG
Page2.PNG
Page3.PNG
Ports.PNG
Thanks in advance!

 

[silentmark09]

Thank You. I will do it according to your recommendations.
If my result is bad, I will wait for your detailed instructions.
Question about port settings. What parameters absolutely cannot be set so as not to block the controller? I'm nervous ...


...added
I have turned on the calibration menu. But when I press the key that I indicated in the picture, nothing happens. I need your help.
6.jpg

hi may i ask what is the key for the remote function?

 

[Stevebequik]

It sounds like quite a few guys are pushing the 150 out to 300bA & 500pA and still getting good reliability.

Has anyone pushed to EM-100 out to 200bA and 350ish phase A?
Or are any of these controllers ‘locked’?

Trying to get more power out of a ktm85 race bike with a QS120 mid. Current controller is nuc 12f
Bit limited in size, weight and budget, so hoping to get away with the 100.

Thanks

 

[kiwibob]

@Paulflieg, it looks like you're suggesting the settings you've circled in green are wrong? I just tried changing them - no change. I thought those settings only came into play when using dual voltage?

Kiwibob.

 

[Paulflieg]

@Paulflieg, it looks like you're suggesting the settings you've circled in green are wrong? I just tried changing them - no change. I thought those settings only came into play when using dual voltage?

Kiwibob.

These are the manufacturer's specifications. Also here in the forum, already posted. It should be worth a try. It works very well for me. But WITHOUT: hhc, hdc, soft start! This is all rubbish for me! There has been no talk of dual voltage for a long time! SW. 2.32, HW.1.13, with me!

 

[afzal]

So, its my first post but Ive been reading ALL of this thread... first and most important I must say that new 4th generation Votol EM-50/100/150/200/250/300 has NEW firmware (.bin) that behaves differently, in older votol (still in stock) the values in flux and % slots were put the same and was about double voltaje settings, BUT in these 4t gen boards only left side means what you think it means, right side is for other adjustments like jitter (timing of frequency, used to adjust the motor: when you hit it too low the motor spins suddenly, if you go to far the motor vibrates half throttle, the adjust range is 100-1200 and its usually right around 300n you notice the motor starts spinning real smooth and slow, with no fluctuation) this jitter is the second or right slot box of sport mode flux weakening, if u leave it at 0 motor wont start..
And so, many things changed and the problem isnt defective controller or bugy software.. the problem is that these people designing this hard stuff are real CHINESE people, and the info is lost along the way.. even inside Votol company..
I will do a real manual for this sh*t and ensure we all know what every part of this software does.. I even know how to use the calibration section of software and I must say EVERYTHING in this software works and works fine, and its hi-tech also..
I do have the new firmware update (bin file) at least one of it, and I would like to have the older one or a newer one, so.. hi to all of you, and replay so i know this thread isnt dead, any questions to me I'll answer no problem.. salute

Hello>
I have repaired recently an votol EM100 and keep for myself. I used to config older versions, but in this case, with the new firmware, i am completly lost. The english manual is unuseless. So i will aprecciate a lot some guideness here.
I ahve reading the wholw post and some things ar very clear, others not.
Any way, i have the .bin if someone need it. Justo form EM100, not EM150

Can you please send me the EM100.bin file to <email removed>, I have a faulty EM100, will be sending you a PM as well

 

[kiwibob]

@Paulflieg, it looks like you're suggesting the settings you've circled in green are wrong? I just tried changing them - no change. I thought those settings only came into play when using dual voltage?

Kiwibob.

These are the manufacturer's specifications. Also here in the forum, already posted. It should be worth a try. It works very well for me. But WITHOUT: hhc, hdc, soft start! This is all rubbish for me! There has been no talk of dual voltage for a long time! SW. 2.32, HW.1.13, with me!

Thanks. I did try those settings but no change.

 

[Agoes]

I have the votol em150 controller. It's the same program for these controllers.

You need to either get cable from qsmotor or build one from a prolific pl2303 serial usb adapter cable and a 4-pin connector.
14320016964.jpeg
I can share the software. It is not hard to understand the program so once you have it you'll be able to use it.

hello friends, i am new member in this forum.
me and my friend are using votol em100 for the first time, we are having trouble setting some parameters of this votol controller, we have read some manuals that we downloaded, but the manual doesn't explain in detail about setting these controller parameters. Hopefully friends can share this more complete Votol Em100 controller guide. Thanks

 

[rienesl]

HI, I'm hoping someone can help with setup of a EM-150 with QS 3000W 138 70H. It runs okay but super low power. the most it'll draw is about 10A. I've had the battery on another bike so I know the battery is good for over 70A, but I can't get this controller to pull any power. Settings:

Thanks in advance!

I had exactly the same issue with one of my controllers (and wrote this a few pages ago). The reason is a miscalibrated current. Calibrate the current and the thing will go like a rocket

 

[kiwibob]

I had exactly the same issue with one of my controllers (and wrote this a few pages ago). The reason is a miscalibrated current. Calibrate the current and the thing will go like a rocket

EDIT - It's alive! It must've needed a controller restart after making the change, because when I went to look at it again it was running awesome. Thanks to all!

 

[rbarrow]

Hi guys,

I have bought Votol EM-100 controller with QS-2000W mid-drive motor. Today while I was working with my controller I successfully connected my Controller with my PC using PL2303Module. Display window was showing Real time Voltages etc. I also downloaded bin files to Controller couple of times, everything was fine. But suddenly after 2-3 hours I lost communication between PC and Controller, and now whenever I try to connect with my Controller this message appears "Communication Abnormal, no response".

Please help me if you have any idea about the issue. Please note that I have checked the wiring and have also replaced PL2303 module, but the issue is still there.

Thanks

This happens to me when I have an issue with the motor (like an unloaded runaway) in the Calibration page. You need to power down the controller and remove it from Voltage. Then allow it to discharge for a period of time (at least 10 minutes). What is most likely happening is that the controller is stuck in a loop and will no longer respond to commands from the serial port. A complete power down restores communication every time for me.

Russ

So, I am returning to this controller after an 7 month absence. I was well on my way to making a proper manual and getting more of these controllers to test on, however, I was not able to resolve the lightly to unloaded runaway condition when operating at max speed. I intend to go through the roughly 40 pages of updates since then, however, sometimes problems are solved and not posted. Anyone have any luck in resolving this issue?

Thanks,

Russ

 

[Atykotski]

Hi all. Need help, or rather advice.
There are controllers Votol Em-150 and motors QS3000W. I want to build something like an SUV. Question one - if you place two motors on one axis, how to make one of them to spin in the opposite direction, but at the same speed as the first? (That is, they should both go forward, although one of them is placed "opposite") Question two - how to make sure that the rotation speed of both is constant? Preferably not more than 100 rpm?
Thank you very much!

 

[bastens_com]

Atykotski, to switch the direction of the motor with the EM family controllers you swap the Hall sensor wires Yell-Blue and swap the motor phase wires Blue-Green.

I have the EM-150-2 and the QS138 70H V3 I needed to switch the direction of my motor. I figure this out because I knew I had to swap the hall sensor and the phase sensor but which ones? I could use trial and error but I noticed in the software it there were two check boxes that said "exchange hall wire Yellow-Blue" and "exchange phase wire color Blue-Green". I tried the check boxes but I didn't have any luck so I manually swapped the wires and it worked. Has anyone had luck using the check boxes in the software? I have not tried ever since I swapped the motors. Thanking back I may not have let the software properly save the software settings by letting it power cycle, I was impatient. Maybe using the check boxes is worth a try before trying to swap the wires manually?

 

[Sattva Ram]

I bought the Em30s controller it kinda works but there is no regen. Low brake doesnt work at all high brake stops the throttle input but it doesnt trigger regen. I suppose it doesnt matter whether it's low brake or high brake once the brake input is there there should be regen. But there isnt. Any suggestions? I think it doesnt have regen it's advertised as having regen but it hasnt actually. I tested it with a Qs mid motor the strange thing is if I set the correct 5 pole pairs it spins very slowly so I have to set around 17pp to reach the normal no load speed. Other than these it works kinda well but without regen it's completely useless for me. QS is very reluctant to help eventho I already filed the dispute. (I know it's not the 100 or the 150 but there's no thread for the small ones.)

 

[Atykotski]

Atykotski, to switch the direction of the motor with the EM family controllers you swap the Hall sensor wires Yell-Blue and swap the motor phase wires Blue-Green.

Ok, thank you for the advice
Somehow I managed to change the rotation direction -simply changed the hall angle to "-60" degrees
But the rotation speed is twice as higher
so now another question - how to make rotation permanent, let's say 100 rpm?

 

[rienesl]

Atykotski, to switch the direction of the motor with the EM family controllers you swap the Hall sensor wires Yell-Blue and swap the motor phase wires Blue-Green.

Ok, thank you for the advice
Somehow I managed to change the rotation direction -simply changed the hall angle to "-60" degrees
But the rotation speed is twice as higher
so now another question - how to make rotation permanent, let's say 100 rpm?

I had a long thought about a 4 wheeler and in the end I got to the conclusion, that the most cheapest way is to use 2 controllers and match them with potentiometers to one single throttle. The reason is simple: If you hook up 2 motors to one controller, you either have 2 HAL sensor inputs (what none of the controllers has), or you run one of them "blind" what will not work in any way - especially not when making a turn. However, if you have 2 controllers and 2 motors attached to one throttle, they need to get matched, or your vehicle will tend to one side the whole time. Hence the potentiometers (just for adjustment, you don't alter them while driving). The smart benefit of this constellation is, that no wheel will run slower than the other - like a Kaiser differential lock.

@Sattva Ram: I have an EM-30 and it has regen braking. Hi-Brake works fine as well. Please post your settings, maybe we can track down your issue. However, keep in mind that regen braking is a totally overrated feature, that has close to no impact on your range (but I agree it is comfortable)

 

[rienesl]

OK guys, now I am in the situation to ask a few questions. I have had a whole universe of cheap motors on my table the last few weeks and it was always a piece of cake to get them run. However, now I got a QS 2kW 12" speed type on my desk and that thing gives me some headache. Today I have just spent 1/2 hour on it, then I ran out of time. But tomorrow I will continue and I hope that maybe someone can help me doing some short-cuts, instead of try and error the whole day.
So before I list up my sorrows: Does anyone has or had his fingers on a QS 2kW speed type and can send me the config? It is not important which controller you have (although it will be unlikely an EM-30 :lol: )

OK, what's going on? This motor was out of the box configured as 5pole -60 degrees. Needless to say that this can't be correct, afaik the lowest amount of polepairs QS sells is 16. The motor does not run very smooth (forward is going so-so, but for reverse it needs some help to get started), so the degrees are probably wrong as well. I assume that this part will not get a big deal, I should be able to determine that quite quick, however if someone has this data, I would be thankful. BUT, and that is the part that gives me serious headache: the motor gets a runaway at a certain speed. Seriously, I have never, ever seen that before and no brake or whatever can stop it!! The only way to get it under control is the fearsome power or ignition cut (thankfully not that fearsome, due to it is a 60V version, so the FETs of the controller do survive that). Any hint about the cause of that mystery is very appreciated

 

[kiggyo]

OK guys, now I am in the situation to ask a few questions. I have had a whole universe of cheap motors on my table the last few weeks and it was always a piece of cake to get them run. However, now I got a QS 2kW 12" speed type on my desk and that thing gives me some headache. Today I have just spent 1/2 hour on it, then I ran out of time. But tomorrow I will continue and I hope that maybe someone can help me doing some short-cuts, instead of try and error the whole day.
So before I list up my sorrows: Does anyone has or had his fingers on a QS 2kW speed type and can send me the config? It is not important which controller you have (although it will be unlikely an EM-30 [emoji38] )

OK, what's going on? This motor was out of the box configured as 5pole -60 degrees. Needless to say that this can't be correct, afaik the lowest amount of polepairs QS sells is 16. The motor does not run very smooth (forward is going so-so, but for reverse it needs some help to get started), so the degrees are probably wrong as well. I assume that this part will not get a big deal, I should be able to determine that quite quick, however if someone has this data, I would be thankful. BUT, and that is the part that gives me serious headache: the motor gets a runaway at a certain speed. Seriously, I have never, ever seen that before and no brake or whatever can stop it!! The only way to get it under control is the fearsome power or ignition cut (thankfully not that fearsome, due to it is a 60V version, so the FETs of the controller do survive that). Any hint about the cause of that mystery is very appreciated

It sound weird. I tried different method with my controller to make sure how can it be safe if anything happens with the throttle pedal.
The high brake input overrides the throttle, and if you put to neutral it also overrides. (i have a D-N-R switch).
To uncut the power is risky because it can burn the controller.

I have a qs138 motor, it has 5 poles.
With the default settings it was very hard to start the car, there were vibrations, noises. After i modified the soft start settings and it now starts the car easily.

I have only positive feeling with this qs138-em200 combo.



Tapatalkkal küldve az én Redmi Note 8T eszközömről

 

[rienesl]

Dear Kiggyo,
Thank you very much for your reply. The mind blowing thing is, that the high brake has no effect at all (doesn't stop the motor, although the brake indication in the display goes on, which is submitted from the controller on the YXT bus!). However, I got this under control by the correct settings of polepairs (16 as expected) and the HAL angle (+120 is working very smooth). Your QS138 is a mid drive motor, while the QS 2kW I have is a 260 hub motor (maybe I should have noted that small, but quite important detail ). Currently I am dealing with a new problem: the FLUX value is not going down (currently at 900 ), whatever I configure in calibration mode. However, the sound of the motor changes and if I force wrong settings on page 3 and increase the flux values on the display (calibration) page, it gets hickups at higher values and eventually blows the fuse. I think I miss a small but essential detail here and additionally I think I have to face that this motor is operating on a different (skill) level than the $150 crap I usually get my hands on...
I will keep you guys updated here, however, if anyone has a factory config for this motor I would still be very grateful

 

[rienesl]

ok, spend some hours in trying around and as always I want to share my results here. First of all, I tried all possible combinations with the HAL sensor and the angles, which ended up in a slightly better result for the FLUX, however I was able to determine the cause of the runaway: if the angle and the configuration of the HAL sensors is in an unlucky constellation, the attempt of the controller to actively slow down the motor backfires and it actually accelerates it. So at least the secret of that miracle was unveiled. However, I still struggle with the way too high flux current, which is still around 500, although I am already at 0! Here is my setup with explanations:

Not much to say here, except it is an EM-50 CAN. The values I use on all my controllers, so nothing that hasn't been approved

This one might need more explanation. First of all, HDC is on, or the gears wouldn't work. Then we cut out sports mode for now, and additionally I need to mention that I use gear 1 and gear 2 only. This is the reason, why gear 1 is configured to 50% and gear 2 to 100%. However the right fields behave slightly different than on my other controllers. Usually the right field of low (1st gear) is the overall current in percent of what the controller is capable of (not to mess up with busbar current from page1!) for all gears except sport. However, this field has no function on this controller but the right field of mid (2nd gear) is setting the current in % of the maximum capable of the controller before flux kicks in. Valid for all gears except sports mode. That's new to me. The 3rd field is still blurry, but exceeds the maximum speed of the motor. I have set it to 75% (=1360RPM), because if I get the motor to 1380RPM, it starts to get unstable. The flux weakening values below I had never understood and returned to their default, after playing around and no effect.

This page kept me busy today - very busy... I tried all 48 combinations of exchange hal wire, exchange phase wire and -120°, -60°, 60° and 120°. In the end I stick with this combo and it runs fine. However:

I don't get the flux current down. As you can see, I am already at 0, but it is still above 500 (flickers between 450 and 600). Anyone any idea where I screwed up?

Edit: there is a new manual online at http://www.siaecosys.com/upfile/202103/2021031154133781.pdf. There is way much more information in there than previously, I am currently fighting my way through the horrible translations

 

[j bjork]

I dont know about the settings for the newer kind of controllers, but I think you still are supposed to choose "surface-mount" in "motor type" on page 3 when that is the type you have.