Yamaha YZ250F

Have you considered running titanium foot peg pins? They should hold up better for you, considering you’re bending the steel ones.

I can’t believe you ran over that big red screwdriver, Just joking 😂… Yeah, looks like the mousses definitely saved you from a front flat 👍
Hi fella, as we have the same exact 180 hall motor and i just picked up a 108-1800 Fardriver can you by any chance shoot me over some pics of your settings pls.Would be nice to have some base settings to work from and then adjust and tune for my setup.
Sure, but my settings arent that great.. I have basically turned down where I guessed there was a problem. I can still get cutouts sometimes, and there are an area where it runs a little rough still on high throttle.



But now I want an answer to what is going on? Are you giving up on the cl1000? Were you not able to get it to run properly?
I got tired of the foot brake. Sometimes I miss it, and sometimes (when sitting down in corners especially) I step on the damn thing accidentally. I bought a cheap left side brake sometime from ebay or something quite some time ago, but have hesitated to use it.
I dont know what size it is, or how easy it will brake..
But now I took a chance and made an expensive brake hose for it:



Very clean with no foot brake :)
It is just a test with the hose just hanging. It turns out the cylinder is too big, it takes too much pressure to brake :(
The chain was very dirty after the "polish", but the gold color it once had is just a memory by now ;)
At least it weighs less now. ;)
I made a quick decision last night that when you can read the text on the mousse through the tire you should change tire immediately :oop:


I thought it was just a hole after something I had hit on a track, I didnt realize it was growing..


One of the tire locks looked interesting, (notice the bent screw) it actually looks worse in reality..
The other one looks ok, so it probably happened before I went to double locks.


A milestone of sorts I guess, 3000km.
I dont know how the hours are usually calculated on a dirtbike, rpm related like on my old tractor?
(hours at 1500rpm in that case) But anyway, for me it for sure means 100 hours at least.

This little fella finally showed up:


Nicer machining than last time:


But what is up with all the damage?:



It dosent really show on the pictures, but there are several marks after hitting or being hit with something all over the heat sink.
Then there is these kind of stuff:



The o-ring sticking up was on the last one too.
The heatsink damage looks like that of having a pile of aluminum blocks (or heatsinks, etc) randomly "tossed" in a bin (vs stacked neatly); they damage and gouge each other along edges, corners, etc.

As long as none of the damage is on the (preferably lapped, though unlikely) surface area that mates with the parts being heatsinked, or where any weather seals have to mate, then it's not important except visually. You'd have to open it and unmate the parts from the sink to find that out.

But it does speak to the (lack of?) care with which these are built and handled, especially with the loose fasteners and protruding gasket.
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I agree, those marks on the heatsink etc... don't show a high regard during assembly. I hope 3shul takes note; I've read that they have a third party for assembly etc... I am very much looking forward to your first run with the CL1400 once it's dialed in. I am really enjoying my CL700.
Hi ya,got the bike up and running and noticed my Rated rpm and phase offset are very different even with the exact same motor and basically controller as you. Either way bike runs like a beast now.I added a shunt setup to mine like you.My Fardriver is about 20-25 ish DC amps out from the Shunt actually draw.So this 480 is more 450.I bet that gap grows depending on the size and price of the controller significantly.Just need to update the ble module so I can adjust all my settings.One thing that really stuck out to me was the ability for the controller to run high power and hold it not just peak quickly like the lower budget models,makes for a mass of grunt through the entire rpm range and a big leap in power from my crf build.The 138-v3 really can't hold a candle to this motor.Bashed for a good 20mins,lots of 80plus mph runs and was only warm to the touch after returning home👌
Yes, I think it will take a lot to overheat this motor. I was on a "stubbrace" today. (They set up a track on a cornfield after harvest) It was dry with good traction. I have never done that type of racing before, but everyone else had.. I was too slow in the corners and tried to compensate by really hitting it when I got out.
Others said I was hard to pass because I took off like a cannon ball and threw big chunks of dirt the whole straits :mrgreen:
I havent logged anything and forgot to check right after a heat, but when I checked the motor was barely warm. Batteries seemed to hit about 45 degrees C

Edit, I should have beefier front brake for this kind of riding, it dosent have what it takes to lock the front wheel at high speed. On the other hand I didnt loose the front wheel and crash either..
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I rode "ränneslättsloppet" again this weekend. (same as last year)
I am rather displeased with how it went ☹️
First I missed the start. When the other 700 in the start field warmed up the engines I stood at the side and waited.
When they turned off the engines I went back, looked up and saw the 3min sign. I started taking on glasses etc. and then the light turned green :oop:
For some dumb reason I hadent turned on the bike, so I did it then and had to wait almost 10sec for it to turn on.
The first lap is a lot of battling to take one or not loose one position in the endless line of riders, but I felt like I gained quite a few positions here and there for a while.

Then bang, and I went over the handle bars and hit the ground. I lost air (? dont know if that is the term in English) a little, so it took some time before I could continue.
It turned out that I hit a rock with the foot peg:


It didnt break at least, probably because the hit was so far in.



The pin got badly bent, had to cut it off to get the foot peg off. The peg is rather damaged too.

Then at the end of the lap I missed the pit lane :cry:
I went slow and looked for some distance, but when it was clear I already passed it I had no choice but to get off the track and make my way back to the pit and change battery.

Second lap started better, but I crashed on some muddy roots and hit my shoulder.
Later on the lap the reverse switch broke so it went in reverse from time to time. It just lost all power when it happened, but I found the problem and was able to disconnect it. But I lost more precious time.

When I was in the pit the second time and started changing battery I heard that they started flag off the race, so I had to put the stuff back on and drive to the finish line.. So only 2 laps, I was for sure expecting to go 3 :mad:
No, I didnt want to take any chanses before races. There was "Ränneslätt" 2 weeks ago, a race this weekend, and one the next that I havent decided if I shoud participate yet. After that it is time to change controller :)
Yeah in that case it makes sense 👍
As long as none of the damage is on the (preferably lapped, though unlikely) surface area that mates with the parts being heatsinked, or where any weather seals have to mate, then it's not important except visually. You'd have to open it and unmate the parts from the sink to find that out.
The problem is that the controller is potted, so I cant open it.

No competing or training this weekend, it seems I have another go at corona or something 🤒
In the beginning of the week I had a lot of pain in the back, so I waited to sign up to see if it would pass.
Just as well I suppose, as I got this crap as the back were getting better.

It was probably a crash in the race last weekend that started the back problem, even if it sneaked up on me.

A word of advice: if you feel you have to crash, try to land soft. Like in mud or sand.
Dont land on the bike :rolleyes:
If you really have to land on the bike, dont land on the handlebars.. Especially with the crotch😖

Some small things have been done lately, like this:


A wheel holder, the dark in the bottom of the pipe is a spring.


Now the spare wheels are mounted like this.
You can even spin them to check the bearings :)


Another try at rear hand brake, it is supposed to be a clutch pump for ktm.
This seems better, it is a little over 9mm. I have only done a little test ride, but so far it seems ok.

I have done some more work on the trailer. A diesel heater, lights and a shelf.
Tested it today, very nice when it is getting cold :)
Maybe I should do a branching (?) to get tubes so I can warm the boots and helmet.
And some hangers for glasses and gloves.


The control panel and a volt/amp meter. Only measures the draw though, so it dosent show the battery getting charged when connected to the car 😕 It is just that the camera didnt catch all the numbers, it shows 12.4v and 1.9xA draw.


First real test of the hand rear brake. Oh, I hated it at first :oop:
It was so weird, I tried to step on the brake all the time.. Even if I was already braking with the hand.
It was hard to learn to brake with BOTH hands, first I was only able to brake with one at a time ;)

But after a few laps and some adjustments of the position it was getting there. The last laps I started to take advantage of the better brake control in curves etc.
Trailer is looking great buddy and like you said some branches off the outlets would be so nice for drying boot ect. Would love a race trailer one day.The rear hand brake for me is a game changer,was worried id get arm pump but defo dont. I also think thats one of my better parts of my riding, out braking or late braking others on track now i am comfortable with them both.Guy said last track event to have a go on his 2023 crf450 but honestly just not interested in ice bikes,ill stick to my little rev and go lol.
Talking of 450:s, a funny thing happened on my latest ride. Another member from my club was at the same track with his new ktm 450.
He is faster than me, and on one lap I noticed he was gaining on me in the woods. I tried to increase my pace to keep away, but he did too.. On this track you get out of the woods, and on to a sandy strait. Then it is a 180 degrees bend, a sand strait again. Then back in to the woods for a short pass before the before the next lap.
When I got out on the sand he was close behind me, and I just hit it with as much throttle I dared.. And with that I was able to hold off and finish first.
He said He had no chance to keep up on the sand :mrgreen:
It's still surprising just how quick these Electric builds can be.I think the fact you can buy off the shelf parts and shove them in a old chassis and be genuinely faster than a new production bike is just brilliant.I just want to drag race a 60hp model varg now and see how close we are.
Yes, I am quite interested in riding a varg a few hours to see how it feels in comparing. I havent went that far to actually order one just to try it properly though:D
I had an idea to try to shove my worn out 90/100-21" mousse in a 90/90-21 or 80/100-21 tire, to see if it would fill out properly, but I changed my mind and threw away both the tire and mousse:


It was really bad when I started to pull it out :oop:

The cl1400 is on the bike now:


I told Hackey this week that it was happening and asked for the unlocked firmware.
But I havent been able to reach him yesterday or today, so I just went frock it and used the old settings.
Now I am at 800pA and 400bA, I tried 900pA, but then it cuts out if I am too fast on the throttle.
(I cant set the protection over 1000A with the standard vesc firmware)