Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

I think I'm going in that direction - unless I find documentation on how Votol has programmed it's "one lin".
A MAX485 transciever close to the Votol will definently provide accurate data.



You're welcome. I have found so much knowledge here, that would have taken ages to research on my own, so sharing my own research is like a must, for me.
Yes, if you put a max485 whit twisted cable the problem disappears, but you need to implement the rs485 protocol on your mcu.

I use a nextion display for the graphic part, and use a PICMICRO for comunication and use it to send by serial protocol the throttle/brake/lamp etc. Like a fly by wire!

I want to use the one-lin cable to read the data and the serial connection to make any change of the controller parameter by the display!
 
No, this controller is made only by siaecosys.
This has a fake CAN (not can-open standard) and need the siaecosys sw and his adapter.
Em150/2(sp) is sold only by siaecosys/qs motor group.
i think this is false information. where they sell the can adapter?
 
Yes, if you put a max485 whit twisted cable the problem disappears, but you need to implement the rs485 protocol on your mcu.

I use a nextion display for the graphic part, and use a PICMICRO for comunication and use it to send by serial protocol the throttle/brake/lamp etc. Like a fly by wire!

I want to use the one-lin cable to read the data and the serial connection to make any change of the controller parameter by the display!
I have some 485 transceivers, so don't need to implement the protocol in software :)
I'm using a Pi Pico to drive a small screen (waiting for the large touch screens to arrive).

Why not use the serial for reading when it's going to be connected anyway? It has the same data.
 
I have some 485 transceivers, so don't need to implement the protocol in software :)
I'm using a Pi Pico to drive a small screen (waiting for the large touch screens to arrive).

Why not use the serial for reading when it's going to be connected anyway? It has the same data.
Pi pico, like a bazooka to kill a mosquito 😅

Anyway, I prefer to have a boot signal because the direct connection to the controller on serial interference is unstable.
The one-lin is a standard and if a problem occurs, I can change a display with a new one (standard display) on the fly and lost only the programming capability.
 
Hello, just about done with a project and looking to get a bit more torque and pull from my setup.

Em200 controller
200A continuous battery
72V 32AH

QS138 70h v3 motor

Not quite sure exactly what to setup the settings on page 1 of the throttle values to. Runs great but I feel like it could be better! Thanks
 
Does new VOTOL controller unprogramed outputs 5 volt in its throttle pins? coz I connected the battery 72volt 70 Amp to the new brand votol and I measured the voltage output using Multimeter in the throttle pins but it showed me 0 volt nothing voltage output 🙏
 
Hello, just about done with a project and looking to get a bit more torque and pull from my setup.

Em200 controller
200A continuous battery
72V 32AH

QS138 70h v3 motor

Not quite sure exactly what to setup the settings on page 1 of the throttle values to. Runs great but I feel like it could be better! Thanks
I have em150 up to 170amp max
Qs138 70h v1
Runs great
From 0 to 100km 12seg speed 130km/h
Share a photo of your setup pag1 pag2
 
Hello, on my EM200 when I use my 3 speed switch and only on Mode 3 I have had the throttle go out on me twice. The bike stays on and everything works except the throttle does nothing.

After waiting 20-30 seconds and cycling the key a few times it works again.

QS told me to try one of two things:

“You need to reduce controller current limit, or increase battery discharge current”

I am running a 200A continuous battery and set the Busbar current on page 1 to 185. I am not using sport mode but have a 3 speed switch. For current limiting on page 2 I set that to 190A.

I am wondering if the settings for the 3 speed switch are incorrect for mode 3.

This is not my screen but should I change the settings on high mode for the 3 speed switch settings? Maybe it’s pulling too much or not enough??
 

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What exact model is yours?

I'm using the Votol EM-150.

Interestingly it is set to 280A in the app but the BMS tells me it actually even pulls 330A from the battery in real life during acceleration (maximum I saw until now, the refresh rate of my BMS screen isn't very quick so it might even be higher).

So yeah, it doesn't really seem like the Votol monitors the battery current all that well (at least mine doesn't)
That being said, it's plenty fun!
 
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I want to share, I’m tired of disruptions, the USB switching off during operation, I’m sick of it... I connected the RS232 cable from the motherboard and through the MAX3232 то TTL output, connection and communication problems are over forever, even though the day is all inclusive, there is no failure. Windows 10 - 64x
Безымянный.jpg
 
Estoy usando el Votol EM-150.

Curiosamente, está configurado en 280 A en la aplicación, pero el BMS me dice que en realidad incluso extrae 330 A de la batería en la vida real durante la aceleración (el máximo que vi hasta ahora, la frecuencia de actualización de la pantalla de mi BMS no es muy rápido, por lo que incluso podría ser mayor).

Sí, realmente no parece que el Votol controle tan bien la corriente de la batería.
Dicho esto, ¡es muy divertido!

I'm using the Votol EM-150.

Interestingly it is set to 280A in the app but the BMS tells me it actually even pulls 330A from the battery in real life during acceleration (maximum I saw until now, the refresh rate of my BMS screen isn't very quick so it might even be higher).

So yeah, it doesn't really seem like the Votol monitors the battery current all that well.
That being said, it's plenty fun!
mine controls the current perfectly
from 150 I changed it to 170
mine is EM-150sp1 max current 180
 
Hello, on my EM200 when I use my 3 speed switch and only on Mode 3 I have had the throttle go out on me twice. The bike stays on and everything works except the throttle does nothing.

After waiting 20-30 seconds and cycling the key a few times it works again.

QS told me to try one of two things:

“You need to reduce controller current limit, or increase battery discharge current”

I am running a 200A continuous battery and set the Busbar current on page 1 to 185. I am not using sport mode but have a 3 speed switch. For current limiting on page 2 I set that to 190A.

I am wondering if the settings for the 3 speed switch are incorrect for mode 3.

This is not my screen but should I change the settings on high mode for the 3 speed switch settings? Maybe it’s pulling too much or not enough??
Mine does that on long, very hot trips in the summer and between 2 people.
 
My pag2 votol 150 qs138 v1 70h
Bms 5min 300seg max currect
140 current continued
Wild, your settings aren’t even that much to push through the controller. Mine only does it on mode 3 though. I am not running a sport mode button. Is yours the same?
 
Wild, your settings aren’t even that much to push through the controller. Mine only does it on mode 3 though. I am not running a sport mode button. Is yours the same?
3 mode
Mode 1 100km/h 70a
Mode2 110km/h 140a
Mode3 120km/h 170a
I don't have a sport button
 
3 mode
Mode 1 100km/h 70a
Mode2 110km/h 140a
Mode3 120km/h 170a
I don't have a sport button
Thanks! Can you share with me what the two sides of the 3 speed settings are? What does the right side do and what does the left side do?
 
Hello, I appreciate the help.

I can't change some values like:
Regenerative, Max phase, sport current...

I can change and save most of the parameters, but when I save those mentioned and reconnect they return to the previous value. That is to say that only those are "blocked" or something like that


I was researching and it seems I should do something similar to this video but I haven't been able to do it. I haven an EM100. Thanks in advance.
1725630630423.png
 
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