Does it rub with the side cover in place? Are there wear marks on the stator?
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Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor
- Thread starter neptronix
- Start date
yantra yatra
⚡ Regular
Ok you can you can remove the cable side hub cover with the stator like this
The cover on the cable side doesn’t spin freely as the other side does
I don’t know if this is the problem… but it dragged a lot (more) and made noise when in the wheel
The stator and rotor appear to be intact to my untrained eye. Not sure what the problem is
The cover on the cable side doesn’t spin freely as the other side does
I don’t know if this is the problem… but it dragged a lot (more) and made noise when in the wheel
The stator and rotor appear to be intact to my untrained eye. Not sure what the problem is
Attachments
yantra yatra
⚡ Regular
I can’t tell if these are rub marks on the rotor or just marks from when then side covers were off and stator was off centre during removal. The stator doesn’t appear to show obvious signs of rubbing
Edit: ok it looks like there is some rubbing here. Hard to see with the statorade on so I had to wipe some off
Attachments
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Anyone have the dimensions for the leaf 1500 to plug into the grim spoke calculator?. I want to try and remount my motor into a 20 inch grim rim. It's currently in a 24 rim which I don't to disassemble until I know it will fit in the 20 inch rim. Thx
Yep, you could do it like that.
Watch out, these magnets are enormously strong. When handling it, i suggest wearing thick leather gloves, especially when putting the stator back in - because your hand could get pinched ( to put it lightly.. )
See the end of this video for what to expect when putting it back together:
I would inspect the magnet rotor for signs of scraping... and also check the bearings.. since they may be the cause of any scraping.
Watch out, these magnets are enormously strong. When handling it, i suggest wearing thick leather gloves, especially when putting the stator back in - because your hand could get pinched ( to put it lightly.. )
See the end of this video for what to expect when putting it back together:
I would inspect the magnet rotor for signs of scraping... and also check the bearings.. since they may be the cause of any scraping.
yantra yatra
⚡ Regular
The rotor and stator are contacting. You can feel in a certain spot very strongly. The magnets grabbing, contacting, rubbing and scraping.
Leafbike told me to remove a rubber seal on the cable side, but it's not that. The drag is very strong, not from the side cover.
Any suggestions? I guess the motor is a write off.
Leafbike told me to remove a rubber seal on the cable side, but it's not that. The drag is very strong, not from the side cover.
Any suggestions? I guess the motor is a write off.
yantra yatra
⚡ Regular
slaphappygamer
🚴♂️ Mega poster
My hub motor has the same cassette. I thought something was missing too. But no.
yantra yatra
⚡ Regular
It has a rotating part - the outermost part of the freewheel - hard up against the dropout/frame. It prevents the freewheel from spinning freely, and causes aluminium shavings to come off if you spin the wheel and freewheel. I wonder if pressure on the freewheel from tightening the axle nuts causes the stator to go off centre, the resistance from the motor got a lot worse after after tightening the axle nuts. I will take it to a bike mechanic but most won't touch or wouldn't know what to do with it.
It looks like you’re missing the washer between the inner part of the dropout and axle flat. You won’t have clearance without it and will ruin your frame.
yantra yatra
⚡ Regular
do you need to put those washers on both sides, inside the frame? I put it on last time, I didn't get an installation guide with the kit, that I can recall.
Apartunis
⚡ Regular
You have to have a shoulder on the axle that protrudes past the freewheel at least a little bit. It's good practice to use a washer that provides a larger clamping surface against the frame than the axle has, to help prevent the axle face from digging into the dropout.
Alternately, you can use a narrower freewheel, like one with 5 or 6 speeds instead of 7. If that allows the axle shoulder to extend past the freewheel, then you won't have to add a washer or spacer.
yantra yatra
⚡ Regular
ok so I should fit round washers on the inside of the frame between the freewheel and the frame, ( and also on the other side) and should I also use the ‘lock’ washers with the protruding section on the outside of the frame between the torque arm and the frame? It would be helpful if they just had basic instructions and diagrams, or a video. I have to stretch the frame a bit already to get it to fit and there is not enough axle to put the nuts on fully with all the washers installed (with torque arms as well). I guess once you know what to do it might be easy but for a first timer this is too complicated (a box of parts and no instructions)
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The inner washer is the more important one to keep from destroying your dropout. And on the disc side (if you use disc brakes), it is also needed for the brake caliper to align properly with the disc.
Split lock washers? Should be the last thing just before the nuts. They are to keep the nuts from unscrewing.
hillslayer@
🚴♂️ Mega poster
The washer with a tab usually go inside the frame, torque arms don't need a washer over them .
Allex
📗 Minor legend
Can some one confirm the bearing size on 1500W 35mm leaf? On both sides that is. Need to replace mine aftre 10yrs of use.
Apartunis
⚡ Regular
Front or rear? If rear, freewheel or cassette?
Allex
📗 Minor legend
Freewheel rear
yantra yatra
⚡ Regular
I fixed the problem I was having with correct configuration of washers. I don't remember getting an instruction page with the motor, but that would be handy to have available online. Had a brake disc come loose... lots of fiddly things to deal with. If you're quite good with these things I guess you can dial them in for low maintenance.
There are quite a few instructional articles and videos online
www.ebikeschool.com
How To Install Hub Motor Washers
The Toecutter
🚴♂️ Mega poster
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,693
Do you think if we collectively pestered Leafbike asking them to make a smaller, lighter, substantially more-efficient version of the Leafbike 1500W that they would eventually listen? I'd love to get this motor down to 8 lbs for similar capabilities at maybe 2-3x the cost. But even something much less radical, say, keeping the current 1500W design except upgrading it to 0.2-0.25 mm laminations, would still be greatly appreciated to the point where I'd feel obligated to buy that improved motor in either 3T, 6T, or 11T form even with a 50% price increase.
I think Grin is more likely to listen to such a request, whether it's as minor as upgraded laminations or as radical as a complete motor redesign using improved technology. These All-Axle motors impressed me thus far, and I'm only running 1500W split between the two, currently on Schwalbe Tryker 20x1.5" on the front wheels(these tires were from 2018, barely used, and in excellent shape when I recently installed them). If I could get the equivalent of a Grin All-Axle side-build with a Leafbike 1500W 3T in a 20" double-wall or even better a 16" DoT rim, I'd totally buy that instead of the Grin. The Grin All-Axle uses 0.35mm laminations, if I recall correctly. They have less stator/rotor mass/area and are thus no worse than a Leafbike 1500W in cogging losses from what my legs can tell, but the Grin all-Axles up front aren't going to be doing 10 kW peaks, ever. A Leafbike 1500W with ferrofluid and hubsink is a 10 kW peak motor. The Grin all-axles up front? Maaaaybe 6 kW peak each with some wiring/connector edits, and I'm 100% confident they each can reliably handle 3 kW peak as they currently are since I know there are people already doing that(the connector the Grin All-Axle comes installed with is the bottleneck, limited to 45A cont).
bUt I'd LiKe MoAr!
I think Grin is more likely to listen to such a request, whether it's as minor as upgraded laminations or as radical as a complete motor redesign using improved technology. These All-Axle motors impressed me thus far, and I'm only running 1500W split between the two, currently on Schwalbe Tryker 20x1.5" on the front wheels(these tires were from 2018, barely used, and in excellent shape when I recently installed them). If I could get the equivalent of a Grin All-Axle side-build with a Leafbike 1500W 3T in a 20" double-wall or even better a 16" DoT rim, I'd totally buy that instead of the Grin. The Grin All-Axle uses 0.35mm laminations, if I recall correctly. They have less stator/rotor mass/area and are thus no worse than a Leafbike 1500W in cogging losses from what my legs can tell, but the Grin all-Axles up front aren't going to be doing 10 kW peaks, ever. A Leafbike 1500W with ferrofluid and hubsink is a 10 kW peak motor. The Grin all-axles up front? Maaaaybe 6 kW peak each with some wiring/connector edits, and I'm 100% confident they each can reliably handle 3 kW peak as they currently are since I know there are people already doing that(the connector the Grin All-Axle comes installed with is the bottleneck, limited to 45A cont).
bUt I'd LiKe MoAr!
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Apartunis
⚡ Regular
At some point would it not be unhelpful to further thin the laminations due to transferring thickness from steel to adhesive layers? Taken to extremes, a stator of .01mm thick lams would be mostly glue and not magnetic material. This implies some point at which thinner lams do not help because the magnetic material density is decreased by more than eddy current losses are decreased.
I failed to get Leafbike over some years to listen to a single suggestion. And they're aware that i accidentally helped make the motor popular. Not surprising that a mainland Chinese business would ignore it's customers though.
0.27mm lams in a DD would be the perfect counterbalance to the stronger magnets they put in the all axles.
Grin is more likely to listen to suggestions. But maybe risk averse due to the current economy.
I'm keen to see what the axle interface upgrade on the 45mm motor looks like. Hopefully it can handle most of it's electric potential
0.27mm lams in a DD would be the perfect counterbalance to the stronger magnets they put in the all axles.
Grin is more likely to listen to suggestions. But maybe risk averse due to the current economy.
I'm keen to see what the axle interface upgrade on the 45mm motor looks like. Hopefully it can handle most of it's electric potential
