Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

skWarDog said:
Duck, In your Power Profiles, go to "Acc", then press and hold the left button until the numbers disappear and you see "----" in all 3 profiles. You will have much better acceleration...

Also, set your "Pwr Timing" to at least 1.4 - 2.5 from +0.53
"Control Method" to "Auto"
"SPD Smooth" to as high as you can
"LS Enable" to "Off"
"Acc off on Brake" to "No"

Then do an "Autodetect" and fine-tune from there
Click to expand...
Thanks for this. This got me sorted, although not sure which setting is was since I changed them all at once then it worked. :roll: :lol:
Initially I just changed the Pwr timing without changing anything else and at WOT it would chew over 60A. :shock: Doing another auto-detect fixed that after it adjusted the angle corr to about -8 degrees.

Now I'm trying to figure out the OVS settings. OVS 1 and 2 seem to get me from 50kph to 55kph, however setting any of the higher OVS settings doesn't get me any faster. It does when the wheel is off the ground, however can't seem to do it when riding. At top speed it is chewing a lot of amps, so I wonder if my settings are still off.
Has anyone else with a Mini-E managed to get very high speeds using OVS on lower voltages?

Cheers
 
At 92V you will have full power. If you have above that voltage the controller will limit your power untill Voltage drops to 92.

Here I have max-e, Mxus 4t in 24" wheel at 36V, OVS is set to 7, max speed is around 60km/h
 
Mammalian04 said:
Hey guys. I keep having a problem with my BMS on bank 4 when charging my batteries.

The battery is 15 Hobbyking 4s2p 8400mah LiFe packs. I have them set up in 5 series and 3 parallel packs for 20s3p.

It charges all the cells evenly for most of the charge, and then towards the end of the charge, the bank 4 cells spike in voltage. In fact, I have seen it spike to 3.78v, which is more than my BMS set maximum (3.65v). I have attached photos of another charge and it is once again spiking (done this 4 times).

Do I have the following set up right? I thought I knew which voltages are supposed to be higher or lower for balancing to happen correctly but that may not be the case.
Click to expand...

No not right, you will ruin your battery having Charge Cutoff: 74.8v (3.74v per cell)
You need to set charge cutoff to 73(3,65V per cell) as maximum!
 
I apologize in advance for not reading the whole thread. Maybe my question is already answered somewhere else...

Is anybody using the domino twist grip (5 kOhm Pot) in combination with the mini-E?

I used the the magura twist grip (also 5 kOhm) for a while and had big problems with jerking at full throttle. I tried several settings and could not find any solution for that. But when I changed to a cheap chinese throttle with hall effect sensor the jerking dissapeared and the "take off" of my motor became much better.

Regarding the grip itself and the max. angle at full throttle, the domino twist grip is my favourite but it has the same technology as magura grip. Will I suffer the same problems with the domino?
 
I am using a domino on my max-e, it works perfectly and has for the last 18months (4000kms) I do not have the micro switch hooked up though as I'm using the variable regen. It sounds like you need to run the throttle linear mapping routine,
 
Seven said:
It sounds like you need to run the throttle linear mapping routine,
Click to expand...

I tried the throttle linear mapping routine several times with all kinds of "tricks" but nothing solved the jerking problems.
 
Question...

I have put the power supply and charge coil on-board the bike I'm building... Then using the switch (below) to engage the charging coil - when at position 1+2 (one is the coil and 2 is a phase wire).

charge switch.jpg


...If the coil is left engaged by mistake (not switching the coil off) and then opperated the controller will be damaged. So I want to put a relay to cut the throttle if the coil is still engaged... by installing a lead from the coil connection (at position 1) to a relay.

When charging the relay would engage and disable the throttle because there is a constant current flow - however, if the bike was to be ridden, the phases are pulsed - so the relay would turn off and on fast... and cut the throttle when each pulse is delivered to the phase with the coil attached. Will the relay be effective??

Is this correct?? are there any other ways to trip the relay??
 
-relay could be on the neg charge lead side of the coil circut, not the phase wire side(?)

alternatively a relay a or fet could be installed on the 54v psu output, that engages the coil only when the psu is plugged in.

in this case the controller disables the throttle by iteslf when it senses the charge current and goes into charge mode, so that should work fine to stop...people blowing up the controller by spinning up the wheel when the coil is engaged :|

but better check with adaptto cause its possible twisting the throttle while the bike is charging could damage things, even though it seems turned off. i think i saw something in the manual about it, but it could be just when the coil is still connected after charge they were referring to.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Well if my experience is anything to go by, the bike will fully run when plugged into the charge lead...and give unlimited power, at the risk of blowing Fets.

Cheers
Click to expand...
was this the incident when the neg- battery lead was plugged into the neg charge lead instead of the neg-supply lead on the controller?

on all my adaptto controllers the throttle is inactive when 'CHARGE' is visible on screen
 
...PSU plugged in or not, it's the coil being introduced into the circuit which is the problem. I need to cut the throttle when the switch is in position 1+2, weather the PSU is plugged in or not.... To cut the throttle would mean that the bike could not be ridden when the switch is in 1+2.

...So, is there a problem using a phase wire to trip a relay - given that it is pulsing?? I am thinking the wheel may start to turn (2 phases) then by the third phase (for example) the relay trips and cuts the throttle.... on-off-on-off etc.if the wheel is turning. It will alert the user that something is wrong (as it won't work properly) - and this hopefully will bring attention to the fact that they have not switched the big red switch to RUN... and has been left on CHARGE.

Ideally the throttle will be cut when the switch is in 1+2 regardless of there being power going through the phases. Is there any other way of sensing the engagement of the switch position in order to trip a relay.
 
ridethelightning said:
was this the incident when the neg- battery lead was plugged into the neg charge lead instead of the neg-supply lead on the controller?

on all my adaptto controllers the throttle is inactive when 'CHARGE' is visible on screen
Click to expand...
Yes. Although it doesn't matter if you don't set charge...it all still works as per normal.

Cheers
 
Hello Everyone!

Welcoming November and the season of new builds with a bunch of news:

1) Revised controllers (improved Power PCB) are now ready for sale! Each controller is equipped with PAS and On/Off switch by default from NOW!

2) Brand new Midi-E controller

3) Already 2 official dealers for more convenience

To find out more please visit our web-site: http://adaptto.com/

electric_bicycle_controllers.png
 
Ideally the throttle will be cut when the switch is in 1+2 regardless of there being power going through the phases. Is there any other way of sensing the engagement of the switch position in order to trip a relay.[/quote]


perhaps a strong,small magnet embedded in the switch handle, that connects a magnetic reed switch ONLY when in RUN position, that completes a circut enabling the throttle signal.
note: this can not be the red display cable wire because that would also turn off the dispaly, and not allowing the controller to charge. will need to be on the throttle output wires themselves somewhere....(perhaps the throttle wiper wire?)
 
ridethelightning said:
Ideally the throttle will be cut when the switch is in 1+2 regardless of there being power going through the phases. Is there any other way of sensing the engagement of the switch position in order to trip a relay.


perhaps a strong,small magnet embedded in the switch handle, that connects a magnetic reed switch ONLY when in RUN position, that completes a circut enabling the throttle signal.
note: this can not be the red display cable wire because that would also turn off the dispaly, and not allowing the controller to charge. will need to be on the throttle output wires themselves somewhere....(perhaps the throttle wiper wire?)
Click to expand...

Perhaps I've been running what you described above:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62650&start=150#p1029494
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=62650&start=150#p1032033

Then I think could be a useful information to Adaptto controller owners the following rumor:
Allex said:
Actually, I think Adaptto is working on active BMS.
Click to expand...

This was the imbalance the last time I reached LVC. 0.149V is considered a good value? I would like to have an active BMS that allow a max imbalance of 0.002V when I hit LVC.
20151101_130835_1.jpg
 
It is pretty normal that cells can get out of balance when you discharge below 3,2 But by how much is hard to tell. It may also be that one of the cells have less capacity in that group.
 
Hi all. I did a couple of videos.

The first, I always wanted to know what the max-e looked like up close with connectors. This is for anyone who doesn't have one already. This is the 10 kw version.
[youtube]mgxmT9MBggg[/youtube]

After installing the max-e yesterday, I did a couple of short speed runs on OVS 2, 4, and 7. I know it's not as fast as several of you but was excited about it. It's fastest I've been 50+ mph/ 80 kmh. I was still accelerating when I let off the throttle. Next will be find longer road :) Still need to figure how to tune it more also. This controller is awesome! Gained 25% more speed just with controller.
[youtube]OFd8y8AwRMQ[/youtube]
 
About max speed I have the same problem, I lowered the Speed ratio until the Adaptto display tells the same as my GPS. Anybody else noticed this difference?
 
Hi Allex, you might mention to Adaptto to check their Max-E case milling jig. The holes in my metal case did not line up with the holes in the plastic end cap. The end cap is correct with the metal case being way off center to one side. I had to mangle the case up pretty bad to get it to work without taking the end cap off (as I hear that voids warranty). Unfortunately, it also isn't square and I already used a prior Max-E template (that was square) to drill my frame so now that is wallowed up too to fit the Max-E. It only takes 1 second to check that it is properly milled so hopefully they can do this in the future.
 
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