Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

Thanks for the answers Madin and Altair.

My BMS settings are Cell Chem. Li Ion
So max: 4.200 Min. 2.750 Bal. 4.190 Crit. 2.250

If i change this to custom i can't put in 4,125. It's 4.120 or 4.130

Is this a "unlocked" FW feature ?
 
smurphy said:
If i change this to custom i can't put in 4,125. It's 4.120 or 4.130

Is this a "unlocked" FW feature ?

nope, the steps of tenths should be normal.
as said, thats the CHARGE voltage. In my case, a 20s pack charged to 82,5V (so 4,125V per cell).
You can set other values, that doesnt matter. The point is, you should set balaning V a bit higher than your maximum charge voltage, because a GOOD battery doesn't need balancing.
If you do not go outside the range of 3,3-4,1V, the battery will stay balanced very well on it's own, and the useful life will be much higher.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
atarijedi said:
Has anyone here bought or built a case for the Adaptto BMS? Or wrapped it in large heatshrink? I'd like to cover it up as much as possible and I'm wondering what others have done.
Careful how much you insulate it!
[youtube]gn-MSFksN2k[/youtube]

Cheers

Damn that happened because BMS was insulated too much?

It really does seem that BMS causes so many issues. I think that is one of the reasons I never had any fire issues because I never used a BMS.
 
Looks like BS on that BMS fire. Why would it start a fire in the first place while riding the bike? Did he have the balancing active while riding or what?
If the adaptto BMS is not balancing then it basically doing nothing, there is no current running through it whatsoever, this must have been a wiring problem?
 
Replying to madin-
Yes, the BMS cannot charge, but the controller does.
Doesn't it works like this?: When in balancing mode, the BMS drains the highest cell until its voltage has been dropped enough, then signals the controller to charge again. When the highest cell again reaches the treshold, the BMS stops the charger and begins again the cycle of draining the highest cell etc...
The result of this is that the battery voltage slowly rises during the balancing, until all the cells are at the maximum balancing voltage.
But to work like this, the settings in the controller should be such that the balancing voltage is slightly higher than the Max voltage, like your system is setup.
Mine is the reverse, but balancing still works :?
Last year there was a discussion on this very subject, and the concensus was that the balancing voltage had to be set lower than the Max voltage, so that's why I programmed it that way. But I would certainly like to have an official defenite answer from Adaptto in regards to the workings of the BMS.

Anyway, my battery is in excellent shape (it's a LiFePo4) and I very rarely leave the charger ON until it goes into balancing.
 
Allex said:
Looks like BS on that BMS fire. Why would it start a fire in the first place while riding the bike? Did he have the balancing active while riding or what?
If the adaptto BMS is not balancing then it basically doing nothing, there is no current running through it whatsoever, this must have been a wiring problem?
Yeah, I think you might be right Allex. At the time I put that video together and up until recently, I still wasn't clear on what actually happened.
This recent discussion on the BMS and your comments makes me realise I was wrong.

I 'think' what may have happened was a paralleled LiPo cell went to 0V (or very low) from failure, then the other paralleled packs were trying to bring it back up through the balance leads which got worse as he let off the throttle due to the voltage sag stopping causing a greater difference between the low voltage cell and the still charged cells.

Anyway, I'll stop saying it was a BMS failure, and I'll update the video description to reflect what I think actually happened.

Cheers
 
Yeah I remember the talk about the balance lead wire starting a fire. But either way, it is kind of still related to the extra complexity of the BMS and wiring. :)

It is still worth having a BMS and I plan on installing mine some day, more so for cell monitoring. I still haven't balanced charged or even paralleled my cells on my 20s14p 18650 pack. Used the bike for 1 season already and cells still within .01
 
Thanks Madin.

To bad that Adaptto isn't fully balancing a pack, just bleeding. All the rest is top, charging, stats, safety of the pack during a ride.

I have seen a balance wire go up in smoke... on the bench when strapping on a tiewrap in the wrong place ;)
 
Altair said:
Replying to madin-
Yes, the BMS cannot charge, but the controller does.
Doesn't it works like this?: When in balancing mode, the BMS drains the highest cell until its voltage has been dropped enough, then signals the controller to charge again. When the highest cell again reaches the treshold, the BMS stops the charger and begins again the cycle of draining the highest cell etc...
The result of this is that the battery voltage slowly rises during the balancing, until all the cells are at the maximum balancing voltage.
It excactly works like that.
Last year there was a discussion on this very subject, and the concensus was that the balancing voltage had to be set lower than the Max voltage, so that's why I programmed it that way. But I would certainly like to have an official defenite answer from Adaptto in regards to the workings of the BMS.

Anyway, my battery is in excellent shape (it's a LiFePo4) and I very rarely leave the charger ON until it goes into balancing.

I would say, do it as follows:
if you have a new, perfectly balanced battery, set the balancing V higher
(normally below 2mV on 18650 cells, the more parallel cells, the better it is)
if your battery becomes SLIGHTLY unbalanced after some cylces or time, set balancing V lower as max charge voltage
(is normal if only one parallel cell, or only a few..)
if you battery get HIGHLY unbalanced every time afresh, you should swap the bad cell

what LiFePo battery do you have, and how many cells in parallel?
 
Guys, my charging wires do get really hot after 3 minutes of charging. Do you know what I am doing wrong? Before that I have had a 20s, 2p LiPo Pack. Now I have a 12s15p LiIon pack. The charging cables are getting really hot after three minutes of chargin, the fan of the EATON charger is getting really noisy after some minutes. Supply current is 10 amperage. Charge current is 10A.
 
Wait, you charge a 12s battery that is 43,2V nominal with a charger thats delivering 55V?
This would mean that Eaton is pushing all of its power to the battery - 37Amps(have you checked the charge current on the main display?) right through the controller fets, this is why your wires gets hot. For eaton you must at least have 20s battery unless you reprogram it to a lower voltage - in this case you can have a 14s battery, But never a 12s
 
Ihave now installed a liddle fan on the cables and have put it outside where it is now 1 degree cold. I am now able to charge it already 12 minutes without the cables becoming too warm. :) #Sciencebro
 
Thanks madin,
My LiFePo4 battery is a 16S pack of 20AH pouches.
Here is a pic of the bike.
 

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No video yet, sorry. But soon.
Now that winter is here with 1 foot of snow already, I'm just waiting for it to compact enough to be able to go riding. :)
I'm also building another fatbike with larger tires and 2000W motor (this one has a 1000W BHT), and 18650 pack.
Should be finished in a month or two.
 
Merlin said:
ohhh myyy god.....there comes another Vector/Adaptto Fire *LOL :shock:

Yes, just so we are clear here. He should absolutely not use Eaton with his 12s battery. This will destroy the battery, can destroy the controller and worst case there will be a battery fire when the cells gets over charged at 4,6V each!
 
DasDouble said:
Ihave now installed a liddle fan on the cables and have put it outside where it is now 1 degree cold. I am now able to charge it already 12 minutes without the cables becoming too warm. :) #Sciencebro


Please read Allex's replies! You Are using 54v charger/power supply to charge a 50v battery! Think about it.
 
DasDouble said:
Ihave now installed a liddle fan on the cables and have put it outside where it is now 1 degree cold. I am now able to charge it already 12 minutes without the cables becoming too warm. :) #Sciencebro

good idea :lol: :lol:
no seriously, did you never check the current reading on the screen while charging?
 
Altair said:
Thanks madin,
My LiFePo4 battery is a 16S pack of 20AH pouches.
Here is a pic of the bike.

Waauw Thats a nice built Altair.
Where did you mount the PAS ?
Under the seatsprings ? Lol :)

Seriously now, very nice bike and i like the footpegs.
How did you make the batterycase ?
Been thinking also about a fatbikebuild for my BBS HD.
But want to go "Fully" on that.
 
Altair said:
Thanks madin,
My LiFePo4 battery is a 16S pack of 20AH pouches.
Here is a pic of the bike.

looks awesome 8)
if you find some time, you should start a build thread^^
 
Yes I know I should have made a build thread long ago. Too much work, too little time. Crazy life.
Under the battery there is an L-shaped aluminium plate bolted to the two frame tubes, that supports the weight of the battery.
Then the sides and top of the box are made with textured ABS that is bendable with heat.
The controller is strapped to the downtube, in the tapered section of the box.
The display is fixed to the toptube with a custom-made adapter. Very solid, and out of harms way.
Love the Adaptto, but not 100% compatible with mid-drives.
I hope the new version addresses this.
 
Allex said:
Merlin said:
ohhh myyy god.....there comes another Vector/Adaptto Fire *LOL :shock:

Yes, just so we are clear here. He should absolutely not use Eaton with his 12s battery. This will destroy the battery, can destroy the controller and worst case there will be a battery fire when the cells gets over charged at 4,6V each!


No, it doesn't. Because I am watching the battery voltage. The current says it is 36 Ampere I have a 12s 15 P battery Samsung 30 Q cell inside. Every single cell is 3.45 ampere hours. That means that I have a bettery with 51 A hours. A current of 36 ampere hours means that it has nearly 0.72c rate. = No fire as as long as it stays under 4.2v
 
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