MadRhino
100 GW
Because it is a popular bike yes. Not for my riding requirements.okp said:
Back after so many years ! Buzzraw 750x upgrade !
- Thread starter okp
- Start date
I'm the new owner of this Buzzraw X 750. I have to admit that it's a blast to ride with the full suspension. I like also the simplicity of the bike but I've also to acknowledge that mechanics is not my favorite hobby! Just to adress a little noise from the brakes is not enjoyable but I'll learn that over time.
I've also ordered today on eBay a Bafang Trigger to mix the riding style. In full honesty, I like pedaling and it's good for my health too.
I'm wondering if it's possible to upgrade the torque of the bike. It's already decent (but I need to pedal hard to get it), but I would like to get a mad torque (and by doing so, probably gain also some top speed like 45/50km/h maximum).
What are the options. I don't have the Pedal X version, so basically the remaining possibilities are either voltage (it's already 48V), or some ESC unlock stuff... or change the rear hub... or a bit of everything.
What do you think folks ?
I've also ordered today on eBay a Bafang Trigger to mix the riding style. In full honesty, I like pedaling and it's good for my health too.
I'm wondering if it's possible to upgrade the torque of the bike. It's already decent (but I need to pedal hard to get it), but I would like to get a mad torque (and by doing so, probably gain also some top speed like 45/50km/h maximum).
What are the options. I don't have the Pedal X version, so basically the remaining possibilities are either voltage (it's already 48V), or some ESC unlock stuff... or change the rear hub... or a bit of everything.
What do you think folks ?
that motor can handle more than the 750 watts that company is throwing at it. like a premade esk8 the controller will most likely be locked and not adjustable so you will need a better motor controller and possibly a battery upgrade for more amp output and or voltage. im sure you can easily double or tripple your power output.
markz
100 TW
You should have looked for a frame and then buy a mxus 3kw or Leaf 1.5kw and a 48V 50A controller once you received the frame to get the dropout widths on the frame correct with the motor.
I am sure there are lots to choose from on https://www.aliexpress.com if you know what the proper search term is, banana ebike doesnt seem to work, mini ebike either, super 73 neither.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/ebike-building-directions/87901-list-of-ebike-frames-specifically-for-bafang-bbshd-bbs03
I am sure there are lots to choose from on https://www.aliexpress.com if you know what the proper search term is, banana ebike doesnt seem to work, mini ebike either, super 73 neither.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/ebike-building-directions/87901-list-of-ebike-frames-specifically-for-bafang-bbshd-bbs03
thanks Battosaii - Yeah markz, that was also an option but I had this flash opportunity to get something which on the paper is already very decent and it's a great ride. I've managed to access to the Bafang programming menu (password was 1919) and added some PAS (from 5 to 9). So now, the more I pedal, the more I continue to accelerate so I'm wondering how this will do without the pedaling and the Bafang throttle trigger that I ordered.
So maybe I'm too much used to customize or upgrade stuff, and I apply this principle to everything, but a little more power would be cool too... or stronger pedaling from my side !
From what I heard, the stock BAC855 peaks at around 3.5kW. With BAC2000 controller, it peaks at around 6-7kw.
I'm also looking for some cool lights and mudguards. At this moment, when I ride on some areas where you have little water (because they clean the roads), I'm not protected at all.
This kind of mudguards
So maybe I'm too much used to customize or upgrade stuff, and I apply this principle to everything, but a little more power would be cool too... or stronger pedaling from my side !
From what I heard, the stock BAC855 peaks at around 3.5kW. With BAC2000 controller, it peaks at around 6-7kw.
I'm also looking for some cool lights and mudguards. At this moment, when I ride on some areas where you have little water (because they clean the roads), I'm not protected at all.
This kind of mudguards
hey folks,
a quick update and guidance request. I'm actually using classic disc brake Tektron and I would like to upgrade that to a better standard.
I'm wondering which I should go for ? Shimano or Tektron Mineral ?
it seems the brakes don't have two wires as an output but just one; so I need to take the (e) electrical version
https://www.probikeshop.fr/frein-avant-ou-arriere-magura-mt5e-2-aa7/129823.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvZ3eh-mx6gIVQ9iyCh1NwQY-EAQYBCABEgJ2svD_BwE&gshop=FR&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIvZ3eh-mx6gIVQ9iyCh1NwQY-EAQYBCABEgJ2svD_BwE:G:s
Either MT4e or 5e
Front: Magura MT4e, 2-piston caliper, 180mm x 2.0mm rotor - Rear: Magura MT4e, 180mm rotor x 2.0mm rotor
a quick update and guidance request. I'm actually using classic disc brake Tektron and I would like to upgrade that to a better standard.
I'm wondering which I should go for ? Shimano or Tektron Mineral ?
it seems the brakes don't have two wires as an output but just one; so I need to take the (e) electrical version
https://www.probikeshop.fr/frein-avant-ou-arriere-magura-mt5e-2-aa7/129823.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvZ3eh-mx6gIVQ9iyCh1NwQY-EAQYBCABEgJ2svD_BwE&gshop=FR&ef_id=EAIaIQobChMIvZ3eh-mx6gIVQ9iyCh1NwQY-EAQYBCABEgJ2svD_BwE:G:s
Either MT4e or 5e
Front: Magura MT4e, 2-piston caliper, 180mm x 2.0mm rotor - Rear: Magura MT4e, 180mm rotor x 2.0mm rotor
markz
100 TW
Dont do mineral oil, go disc with cable and upgrade to BB7 and start using the regen braking if you can on direct drive.
edit - and 203/205/215/255 rotor
edit - and 203/205/215/255 rotor
MadRhino
100 GW
The Tektro hydro brakes are not top brakes, but they are twice a BB7, or any other cable brake. Upgrade means better. :wink:
Upgrading to Magura or Shimano big brakes is best if you want to use mineral oil.
Upgrading to Magura or Shimano big brakes is best if you want to use mineral oil.
thanks both. I don't get your point on BB7 as to me brakes are a full kit component. When I look at all the feedback on the Magura 5, it seems be better than what I have right and it seems a direct fit on my buzzraw
https://fasterbikes.eu/en/365/magura-mt5e-hydraulic-disc-brake-for-bafang
what do. you mean when you say "they are twice a BB7"? I've looked at BB7 and it seems it's a model from Avid.
Sorry, I'm looking to document myself but a little bit lost as after all my search, the Magura MT5e was the top notch solution but seems it's not!
https://fasterbikes.eu/en/365/magura-mt5e-hydraulic-disc-brake-for-bafang
what do. you mean when you say "they are twice a BB7"? I've looked at BB7 and it seems it's a model from Avid.
Sorry, I'm looking to document myself but a little bit lost as after all my search, the Magura MT5e was the top notch solution but seems it's not!
MadRhino
100 GW
The first condition of a proper brake for the extra weight and speed of ebikes, is the brake pad surface. You want a big brake, twice the pad surface of small brakes. Then, not only the pads are bigger (or a set of 4 small), but also the caliper size and it does shed twice the heat.
Next is the lever, because the brake efficiency is only for half of its performance. It is the control that makes possible the shortest braking distances: constance is making predictability and modulation is making precision. Some good brake levers are simple with minimal tuning but designed with excellent modulation, some other are tunable to rider’s preferences (reach and bite point).
Any basic big caliper paired with one of the best lever, will stop you shorter than the very best calipers with a crap lever. Levers don’t interchange with all brakes, and some are pretty expansive. Best is to choose a big brake that has the lever you like already.
One more thing. Care more about the brake itself than e-brake compatibility. Brake switches are cheap and easy to instal separately, which is much better for many. I personally, prefer the brake independant of the regen switch, and some prefer a variable regen to a switched ebrake lever. A good front brake will always stop you shorter than any regen.
Next is the lever, because the brake efficiency is only for half of its performance. It is the control that makes possible the shortest braking distances: constance is making predictability and modulation is making precision. Some good brake levers are simple with minimal tuning but designed with excellent modulation, some other are tunable to rider’s preferences (reach and bite point).
Any basic big caliper paired with one of the best lever, will stop you shorter than the very best calipers with a crap lever. Levers don’t interchange with all brakes, and some are pretty expansive. Best is to choose a big brake that has the lever you like already.
One more thing. Care more about the brake itself than e-brake compatibility. Brake switches are cheap and easy to instal separately, which is much better for many. I personally, prefer the brake independant of the regen switch, and some prefer a variable regen to a switched ebrake lever. A good front brake will always stop you shorter than any regen.
thanks a lot for the explanation. It's very nice of you ! it helps me to move in my understanding journey
I've noticed something that I would like to share with you.
I still have the Super73 SG1 from my friend; which is 250W and I have a stronger acceleration, or with less pedaling I can get more torque. It's very weird because it's "only 250w" vs the 750W I have in my Buzzraw.
That's the S73
and my Buzzraw 750
Do you believe an EggRider v2 would unleash the power of my 750?
I've noticed something that I would like to share with you.
I still have the Super73 SG1 from my friend; which is 250W and I have a stronger acceleration, or with less pedaling I can get more torque. It's very weird because it's "only 250w" vs the 750W I have in my Buzzraw.
That's the S73
and my Buzzraw 750
Do you believe an EggRider v2 would unleash the power of my 750?
markz
100 TW
Sellers will literally state anything to get a sale.
Sellers will have the exact same motor on their site, yet they will be listed as 250W to cater to the Aussie's/UK'ers, or 500W to sell to whatever place has 500W law, or 750W to sell to the Americans...... or-1500W-to-sell-to-the-Canucks.
Aside from that gaff, more torque would mean the motor is wound differently inside. You can buy motors in a 3T winding, 4T, 5T....12T or maybe higher, just the amount of winds the wire is wound, which is the size of the wire to fit in the motor slots. They all have the same amount of torque, and power, its just that you have to change things (controller, wheel size, etc) on a 4T to meet a 12T. There is a whole thread on that, MYTH of High Power Motor vs High Torque Motor, no, they both have the exact same power and torque.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64907&p=974291&hilit=myth#p974291
Justin talks about it in one of his new videos. I highly HIGHLY suggest you take a few hours over a cpl weeks and listen to it, make notes.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbKIWz7uAeDSMgulTonKk6w/videos?pbjreload=101
This title is good, Deep Dive into Ebike Motor and System Efficiency
Understanding Everything about Hub Motor Drive Systems - Spezi 2020 Live Presentation
Take a tour of Grintechs old store/warehouse
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxB2j-egWcQ&pbjreload=101
Sellers will have the exact same motor on their site, yet they will be listed as 250W to cater to the Aussie's/UK'ers, or 500W to sell to whatever place has 500W law, or 750W to sell to the Americans...... or-1500W-to-sell-to-the-Canucks.
Aside from that gaff, more torque would mean the motor is wound differently inside. You can buy motors in a 3T winding, 4T, 5T....12T or maybe higher, just the amount of winds the wire is wound, which is the size of the wire to fit in the motor slots. They all have the same amount of torque, and power, its just that you have to change things (controller, wheel size, etc) on a 4T to meet a 12T. There is a whole thread on that, MYTH of High Power Motor vs High Torque Motor, no, they both have the exact same power and torque.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64907&p=974291&hilit=myth#p974291
Justin talks about it in one of his new videos. I highly HIGHLY suggest you take a few hours over a cpl weeks and listen to it, make notes.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbKIWz7uAeDSMgulTonKk6w/videos?pbjreload=101
This title is good, Deep Dive into Ebike Motor and System Efficiency
Understanding Everything about Hub Motor Drive Systems - Spezi 2020 Live Presentation
Take a tour of Grintechs old store/warehouse
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxB2j-egWcQ&pbjreload=101
Hey folks, I hope you are all good and safe. Back from a few holidays and focusing on the bike that I will use to commute to work.
I've so far very happy with it, rides very well BUT I would like more torque. When I push full throttle as an example and even push very hard, the acceleration is very mellow. The bike catches speeds after some seconds and I reach around 40km/h top speed average.
I've put an Eggrider v2 in order to be able to swap (and lock) the ECO/SPORTS mode. In other terms, it's only possible to unlock the sports mode using the phone APP. In case of a police control, I just switch ON/OFF and it's locked on ECO mode.
This is what my bike looks like
So my plan now is somehow simple.
- Buy a BBSHD motor from lunacycle (hope I can get the ludicrous version)
- Keep the 60/20T belt ratio that I already have
- Buy a rear wheel
- Build a 52V battery pack using a POLLY DP-9 (or HAILONG) so I can get 14S6P - 83 cells.
- Buy a 14S Li Ion BMS (no idea which one to get, a blue tooth would be dope !)
There're still blurry areas, cause the BBSHD has controller included, which mean that the area which was hosting the existing controller and where the battery support relies is going to be empty (not that a big deal but well).
I was also looking to put the 14S pack inside the saddle, but again... it may looks easier on photos than it is to do.
So voilà,
If you have any suggestion, please go for it !
I've so far very happy with it, rides very well BUT I would like more torque. When I push full throttle as an example and even push very hard, the acceleration is very mellow. The bike catches speeds after some seconds and I reach around 40km/h top speed average.
I've put an Eggrider v2 in order to be able to swap (and lock) the ECO/SPORTS mode. In other terms, it's only possible to unlock the sports mode using the phone APP. In case of a police control, I just switch ON/OFF and it's locked on ECO mode.
This is what my bike looks like
So my plan now is somehow simple.
- Buy a BBSHD motor from lunacycle (hope I can get the ludicrous version)
- Keep the 60/20T belt ratio that I already have
- Buy a rear wheel
- Build a 52V battery pack using a POLLY DP-9 (or HAILONG) so I can get 14S6P - 83 cells.
- Buy a 14S Li Ion BMS (no idea which one to get, a blue tooth would be dope !)
There're still blurry areas, cause the BBSHD has controller included, which mean that the area which was hosting the existing controller and where the battery support relies is going to be empty (not that a big deal but well).
I was also looking to put the 14S pack inside the saddle, but again... it may looks easier on photos than it is to do.
So voilà,
If you have any suggestion, please go for it !
update of the day
- BBSHD 100mm no display ordered from AliExpress
- Polly DP9 52V battery housing ordered. I'll build a 14S6P pack inside it.
- Rear Wheel : Under discussion with Coast Cycles. I may also order the stuff to use a chain in the future if the belt tends to fails because of the torque.
- ASI855 controller : from Marcin ES - discussion on going.
I don't see the upgrade as a big tasks; mostly plug and play stuff.
What would you suggest for the 14S BMS?
- BBSHD 100mm no display ordered from AliExpress
- Polly DP9 52V battery housing ordered. I'll build a 14S6P pack inside it.
- Rear Wheel : Under discussion with Coast Cycles. I may also order the stuff to use a chain in the future if the belt tends to fails because of the torque.
- ASI855 controller : from Marcin ES - discussion on going.
I don't see the upgrade as a big tasks; mostly plug and play stuff.
What would you suggest for the 14S BMS?
self update
- I got the BBSHD
- the ASI855 is paid and will be shipped soon
- Rear wheel should be ordered soon
- 14S BMS : I went for the Neptune 15
- DP9 housing : delivery soon
I will be using (and starting with the original 60/20T belt) and wondering which cells should I go for the battery pack.
14S6P will be 84 cells. I plan to go for 3000mah/cell. And hesitating between 30Q (15A/cell) or VTC6 (30A/cell).
For the charger, I believe 4A charging current is decent although I could double that value and charge at 8A.
I also took the time to revisit my fenders and add a bit of aramide/carbon and some pixel dust for the sake of it
- I got the BBSHD
- the ASI855 is paid and will be shipped soon
- Rear wheel should be ordered soon
- 14S BMS : I went for the Neptune 15
- DP9 housing : delivery soon
I will be using (and starting with the original 60/20T belt) and wondering which cells should I go for the battery pack.
14S6P will be 84 cells. I plan to go for 3000mah/cell. And hesitating between 30Q (15A/cell) or VTC6 (30A/cell).
For the charger, I believe 4A charging current is decent although I could double that value and charge at 8A.
I also took the time to revisit my fenders and add a bit of aramide/carbon and some pixel dust for the sake of it
So I'm moving forward.
I received my BBSHD & ASI855 but I don't have the harness to connect them...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CF49m9NKaBA/
Here are what I have so far. It seems I will need to duplicate some pins as there are only 8 on 1 side... and much more on the other (ASI)
I received my BBSHD & ASI855 but I don't have the harness to connect them...
https://www.instagram.com/p/CF49m9NKaBA/
Here are what I have so far. It seems I will need to duplicate some pins as there are only 8 on 1 side... and much more on the other (ASI)
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