jonescg's eCRX pre-build thread!

Will be following this one close. The CRX in that condition (unmodified... riced out...spoiled) is getting very hard to find so the car alone is a great thing to have in 2018. Once it's fully electric it will be a treasure.


Im missing my old hoist...shed. So know how you feel about not wanting to start new projects without the space and gear.

Kurt.
 
Yeah it might seem like staling, but the reality is I would take just as long, if not longer if I wasn't set up for the job but started anyway.

Batteries are sorted - just have to find a way to make them fit. I can go for range or power. Not sure which is better, but in all reality range will be the main thing I want the CRX for - 200 km at highway speeds is the goal. I reckon these energy dense cells (208 Wh/kg) might be the way to go but the volume they occupy is still pretty big. It won't set the world alight, but 3 C peaks are OK for fun up to 100 km/h.

SloCo - yeah I have been following Arlin's work for ages. And he proves that the Leaf motor can take a lot of abuse. But just in case I can get a complete motor/inverter assembly it would be good to know if I can transplant the whole lot. No big deal otherwise - the PM150DXR inverter will be more than enough for the job. But it would also be good to save about $8000 in inverter spend.
 
Then look at the work Paul has done to control the Nissan Leaf motor. He sells boards to drive AC and DC motors. You would have to buy the 3 IGBT half bridges needed to get the power to the motor also. But that should be a lot less expensive in total than the $8k for an inverter you quoted.

Here is the driver board:
https://pandspowerelectronics.ecwid...rol-Driver-Board/p/59121602/category=22093524

And the resolver to encoder board:
https://pandspowerelectronics.ecwid...to-Encoder-Board/p/99847539/category=16287307

Here's a video showing Paul controlling the Nissan Leaf motor:

[youtube]qzlLh8xxx1g[/youtube]
 
jonescg said:
But it would also be good to save about $8000 in inverter spend.

You should be able to do one of my kits for about 1/2 of this or less.
 
Arlo1 said:
jonescg said:
But it would also be good to save about $8000 in inverter spend.

You should be able to do one of my kits for about 1/2 of this or less.

I'm sure I can get it cheaper - but not as cheap as a home-brew.
 
Kurt said:
Im missing my old hoist...shed. So know how you feel about not wanting to start new projects without the space and gear.

Kurt.



It gets installed on Wednesday :D
 
Oh man this is so good.
CRX on Hoist.jpg

So it turns out the space available isn't as good as I thought. I'll still have to pull the tank out to know for sure, but it looks like some important structural spars are in the way of where I'd like my pack to go.
I can easily fit 6 of my liquid cooled modules in, but 8 would be unlikely. Unless I start to stack two modules on top of the others...
 
I have shop envy. :bolt:
 
Well folks, 12 years and 4 pages of posts, I'm finally starting my CRX conversion. The motivation to start it now is bittersweet.

Sweet because I'm finally settled in a nice big workshop, I have a steady job that pays well, and I've got enough DIY EV experience under my belt that I can start with confidence. I also have a spare vehicle on loan so having the car off the road for a year is no big deal. The Leaf motor is in the shed waiting for it's new chassis and I'm happy with my charging options.

Bitter because my wife has more or less dumped me. In 2020 she had a massive anxiety spiral which took her years to recover from, and when she did, she came through without me. Despite my best efforts to keep the flame alive, she's only pushed away harder, so we're going to split up. It's a bit awkward as we're still living together like flatmates (as we have for the past 4 years anyway) but it's clear we're only married on paper. I might not have a workshop for these sorts of things in a years time, so I might as well get this project done while I can.

Anyway, enough country and western song. Time for some pictures:
I wanted to keep the fuel lines in tact in case someone wanted to buy them, so I had to pull the dash apart to access them. I hope to never do that again, so I'm tempted to do a custom dashboard with new wiring to only key services. The heater core was blocked, so it had to come out anyway. Because I still need de-fogging on the windscreen and I want to put aircon back in, I might as well put a PTC electric element in place of the heater core.

The rear engine mount (aka steering subframe) has a big crack in it. It's probably been that way for a decade, but I'll have to patch that up with a welded plate, and paint over it ahead of the inspection. I might be able to find one at a wreckers, but at that point I wonder if a custom frame is better, one complete with Leaf motor pickups instead?
 

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Design for the battery is settling...
 

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Identified a massive crack in the rear engine / steering subframe which needs to be replaced. Luckily the aftermarket racing community has solutions. Once this is repaired I can work on mounting the Leaf motor and get some new driveshafts made up.
 

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New subframe arrived, so I spent the weekend cleaning up the power steering rack and tack welding the mounts in place.
I won't get it painted up until I know where the Leaf motor's novel mounts will go. I've got a few options, including the original pickups, but I have a feeling it needs to go to the right as far as practical.
 

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Did a quick test fit of the new subframe. Turns out the rear engine mount will be one of the easier jobs. I still need to shave 6 mm off the face of the transaxle so I can fit a plate for an engine mount.
 

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Did a quick test fit of the new subframe. Turns out the rear engine mount will be one of the easier jobs. I still need to shave 6 mm off the face of the transaxle so I can fit a plate for an engine mount.
Are you turning it into a Rear-wheel drive car, or all wheel drive?
Snapped subframes are sadly, a common issue on the old CRX'es.
 
No, still front wheel drive. The broken subframe is the rear engine mount, also known as the steering rack subframe. I think this chassis was in a motorway crash once, as there's significant repairs to the tail end, as well as evidence of front end damage.
I'm told a new front subframe is worthwhile too. More rice!
 
I didn't see the crack in the old one. Sometimes they crack because of excessive fatigue (high mileage on rough roads), under-engineered or poorly designed.

Are you going to powdercoat the new one?

PS: I like your motor cradle roping system! What does that powerplant weigh?
 
I didn't see the crack in the old one. Sometimes they crack because of excessive fatigue (high mileage on rough roads), under-engineered or poorly designed.

Are you going to powdercoat the new one?

PS: I like your motor cradle roping system! What does that powerplant weigh?
1718605079403.png
Highlighted for clarity.
Yeah probably fatigue, but I do know this car has been in a crash too.
The frame will be powder-coated but only after I work out where all the mounts need to go.
The motor is about 70 kg.
 
Good to see it under way mate, whats the goal for range?
Aiming for 29 kWh, which given the efficiency of the car, should give at least 200 km of highway range. Won't know how much battery I can have until I get to the battery building stage - the last step in the process.
 
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OK I see it now. That's a bad crack, glad you identified it before it could cause further problems! I have seen one so bad it was causing black streaks when reversing because the wheels were pulling so far out of alignment when backing up!
 
Few parts have come in, and a few more on order. It's mostly suspension and car stuff at this stage, but it is a restoration project after all. I've ordered a new front engine subframe as I'm told the OEM part was a bit soft where the caster rods bolt up, and I really needed something easier to weld some vibration damping motor mounts to.
I also got one of my Leaf driveshafts - the one with the bearing support bracket. The bearing feels a bit loose, so I might yet end up buying a new set. After all, they will be mated with the Honda outer driveshafts.
Finally I also got a new radiator and fans. I hope to control the fan speed with a PWM controller and a thermistor so they aren't running at full speed when it's supposed to be quietly charging in the garage.
I'm wondering if I should put the aircon condenser behind this given it won't be getting anywhere near as hot as an ICE radiator...
 

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