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Mid drive chain efficiency and longevity tips

My waxed chain has over 350 miles on it. I haven't touched it but now it's starting to skip under load on the highest gear (14t). It's still shifts smoothly and the chain is quiet. No doubt that 14t sprocket is worn but 350 miles would be too soon compared to my old ways.

@add - I use inexpensive KMC Z6 chains and should probably up the quality of chains I use but since I have a history of them it serves as a good comparison.
By skipping, do you mean it jumps to the next lower gear? I had that problem on my 8 spd freehub (this was before waxing). Tried just about everything, none of which helped. In the end I found the derailleur hanger was slightly bent (after I bought a derailleur hanger alignment tool), straightened it with the tool and no more skipping. Not saying that's your problem but something to think about
 
By skipping, do you mean it jumps to the next lower gear? I had that problem on my 8 spd freehub (this was before waxing). Tried just about everything, none of which helped. In the end I found the derailleur hanger was slightly bent (after I bought a derailleur hanger alignment tool), straightened it with the tool and no more skipping. Not saying that's your problem but something to think about
I've had that happen. My hanger straightening tool was smooth-jawed Channel-Locks.
Also works for adjusting caliper brake camber/toe. Oh, that BBS02 ate some derailleurs and chains.
Broke a couple derailleurs. 2.
Dude even sent me a new one. Thing went 1/2 a block and ate the derailleur.
(probably before I straightened the hanger)
One was a uhh. "SRAM X4" I think? Bottom line is mid drives have broken, absolutely broken 2 derailleurs for me.
Sometimes you gotta bend cages and everything, and lemme tell ya, you should.
 
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Tbh, I'd recommend waxing all kinds of chains like that. Motorcycle, chainsaw, industrial, all of them.
Great idea with the chainsaw. I just bought this one Robot or human? but haven't used it yet.

edit: A little more reading and not so good idea. Chainsaw is in much dirtier environment than a bicycle chain (on pavement). The saw dust will strip the wax in no time.
 
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Great idea with the chainsaw. I just bought this one Robot or human? but haven't used it yet.
Idk about chainsaws, I think that's too high rpm, and most come with oilers.
Will test tomorrow. Y not? :LOL:
Drain the oiler and flush it out, wax the chain and see what happens.
There's something around here I could cut on, I'm sure. Back of mind says that might fail.
Never know unless you try, though. That one you linked there would be a prime candidate. Maybe not the Stihl real chainsaw.
I'll be using a Stihl saw.
 
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After that, I just mixed 10% microcrystalline wax + 90% fully refined paraffin wax, added 1% WS2 and I've been happy ever since.

I've been wanting to add some LDPE wax to make the wax harder and tougher at the same time, but that'll wait until I've finished my current group buy.
What's the purpose of the microcrystalline wax? Does LDPE wax make it harder or should it be HDPE wax?
 
What's the purpose of the microcrystalline wax? Does LDPE wax make it harder or should it be HDPE wax?
Microcrystalline wax disrupts the linear chains of paraffin wax and makes it flake less. It also improves metal adhesion.

Polyethylene wax (LDPE wax in this context, even though mine's melting point is 113-115C lmao) acts as a sort of rebar with its super long chains. It makes the wax harder and tougher simultaneously; it mainly prevents cracks from spreading and minimize flaking under surface abrasion (water + sand) or under pressure (chain load + abrasives). It also disrupts the crystalline wax structure, just differently.

Commercial wax mixes tend to employ these "composite" waxes to balance low friction and high treatment lifetime, which is something wax DIYers tend to miss.
 
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Great idea with the chainsaw. I just bought this one Robot or human? but haven't used it yet.

edit: A little more reading and not so good idea. Chainsaw is in much dirtier environment than a bicycle chain (on pavement). The saw dust will strip the wax in no time.
Possible. I'll find out tomorrow if I can. I think like, gas ones are around 6K rpm and the hydraulic ones are like 10K.
Whoops, the gas ones are much faster than I thought, hydraulic must be like 20K, they're almost subsonic.
I doubt wax works at those RPMs. :(
 
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Possible. I'll find out tomorrow if I can. I think like, gas ones are around 6K rpm and the hydraulic ones are like 10K.
Whoops, the gas ones are much faster than I thought, hydraulic must be like 20K, they're almost subsonic.
I doubt wax works at those RPMs.
I'm sure "wax" could work just fine in those.
You just need a wax base that adheres much more strongly to metal than fully refined paraffin wax, which does exist.

Of course, considering that these chains aren't full on roller chains, waxes don't make a lot of sense.
 
I'm sure "wax" could work just fine in those.
You just need a wax base that adheres much more strongly to metal than fully refined paraffin wax, which does exist.

Of course, considering that these chains aren't roller chains, waxes don't make a lot of sense.
They roll on pins..
I think at those speeds wax would melt quickly. 13,500 rpm.
 
No matter the lube, adding a pinch or 2 of Boric Acid to it is likely to improve it no end.

The trick to very fine BA is to put it in a coffee grinder, then put the coffee grinder in the bottem (coldest) of the freezer to get the granules brittle.
Take the grinder out, plug in and grind. Repeat 2 or 3 times.

NB
Boric Acid (B₂O₃)
NOT
Borax or anything with Sodium (Na) in the formula. ie: NOT Na₂B₄O₇·10H₂O
 
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This new Hycline chain was degreased with Silca Ultimate Chain Stripper then immersion hot waxed with pure Gulf Wax. Chain currently has 250 miles on the wax (was re-waxed at 190 miles). Chain gauge shows 0% wear (would barely fit between the links). I will be lengthening the interval between re-waxing while monitoring chain wear with the gauge. Smooth shifting and quiet so far.

IMG_0389.jpeg
 
Microcrystalline wax disrupts the linear chains of paraffin wax and makes it flake less. It also improves metal adhesion.

Polyethylene wax (LDPE wax in this context, even though mine's melting point is 113-115C lmao) acts as a sort of rebar with its super long chains. It makes the wax harder and tougher simultaneously; it mainly prevents cracks from spreading and minimize flaking under surface abrasion (water + sand) or under pressure (chain load + abrasives). It also disrupts the crystalline wax structure, just differently.

Commercial wax mixes tend to employ these "composite" waxes to balance low friction and high treatment lifetime, which is something wax DIYers tend to miss.
I've also been wanting to try and add some LLDPE to my wax although it will increase the melting temp from previous experience in mixing PEs into wax so may need to up my melting game. When I was looking into awhile ago I settled on LLDPE for some reason, longer chains with shorter branches sounded better for this application but maybe LDPE would be better due to lower melting point. I remember Silca talking about super some exotic super long chain wax they use for their endurance chip and my first thought was, well that just sounds like polyethylene.
 
You run down to 14T on a mid drive?
Yes to keep the cadence down. I run a 52t up front. I'd run a bigger lekkie ring up front so I could run a higher tooth count in the rear but after discussions with Lekkie engineering they don't and won't. Any other chain rings I've tried don't have the correct offset for the BBSHD.

By skip a tooth I mean it stays in the same gear but the chain climbs over the sprocket teeth.

Maybe my derailleur is getting old and not keeping enough tension there????
 
By skip a tooth I mean it stays in the same gear but the chain climbs over the sprocket teeth.
I am trying to imagine what your chain looks like after it skips a sprocket tooth. Wouldn't the chain sag between the sprocket and chainring? What kind of noise does it make when it skips? Do you have to stop and pull the chain back over the skipped tooth?

Edit: Can you post a good photo of your 14T sprocket? I am wondering how the wax caused the skip, or it would have skipped anyway w/o wax. Difficult question to answer.
 
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Ive dont ride alot but when i do the welsh mountains aint to kind to a bike so wax is out of the question so after a ride if i can be arsed ill wd40 the chain drive out dirt and water then use a dry ceramic dry lube and leave it be any extra watts my chain needs soon gets loosened up.

Damn as kids we would grab a drop handle rusty wreck from the tip and ride it about dry chain wet it up in the river and peddle away no tyres flat out on the rim skidding down all the steep hills to get as fast as we could into the park and hit the big jump.

Broke my leg obviously and a friend both lol but made us tougher still dull enough to brake an arm year later on a bike too but finally found some skill then.
 
Microcrystalline wax disrupts the linear chains of paraffin wax and makes it flake less. It also improves metal adhesion.
Less flakes/ better metal adhesion are desirable properties in chain wax. I'd love to try some. Where is a good source in the US? Thanks!
 
I've also been wanting to try and add some LLDPE to my wax although it will increase the melting temp from previous experience in mixing PEs into wax so may need to up my melting game.
How many watts is your wax cooker? You can add a PID controller + SSR for precise temp control. I've seen both for as little as $30.
 
As the wax flakes off, some of it undoubtedly gets between rear brake pads and rim or disc. Have any of you noticed compromised rear brake performance?
 
As the wax flakes off, some of it undoubtedly gets between rear brake pads and rim or disc. Have any of you noticed compromised rear brake performance?
You mean flakes jumping from the chain, flying above the cassette, through the wheel avoiding moving spokes, and then right on the brake pads ? I'm undoubtedly doubtful this may practically happen.
 
Less flakes/ better metal adhesion are desirable properties in chain wax. I'd love to try some. Where is a good source in the US? Thanks!
I found mine at a local art store (80C melt, ASTM 27 hardness).

I assume your art stores in the US have similar supplies.
 
I found mine at a local art store (80C melt, ASTM 27 hardness).

I assume your art stores in the US have similar supplies.

Google AI overview says some candles contains Microcrystalline wax to get certain properties. I started waxing with candles (from Dollar General) + WS2. It is a softer wax than refined Paraffin wax (Gulf wax) that I have. I will have to go back to the candle wax (with WS2 or without) on a new chain to see how it performs and whether it flakes less. I've gotten 500 miles on candle wax + WS2 with no noise or shifting problems, but that was with a used chain where some of the old wet lube remained between the pins and rollers which may have skewed the test results.
 
Google AI overview says some candles contains Microcrystalline wax to get certain properties. I started waxing with candles (from Dollar General) + WS2. It is a softer wax than refined Paraffin wax (Gulf wax) that I have. I will have to go back to the candle wax (with WS2 or without) on a new chain to see how it performs and whether it flakes less. I've gotten 500 miles on candle wax + WS2 with no noise or shifting problems, but that was with a used chain where some of the old wet lube remained between the pins and rollers which may have skewed the test results.
Most candles do not contain any microcrystalline wax whatsoever. If you don't have an information sheet about the candle wax you're buying, assume that you're just buying semi-refined paraffin wax with some stearic acid added in.
 
You mean flakes jumping from the chain, flying above the cassette, through the wheel avoiding moving spokes, and then right on the brake pads ? I'm undoubtedly doubtful this may practically happen.
I see signs of wax flakes everywhere, chain stay, , seat stay, spokes, rim. I don't see it on the braking surface of the rim but that does not mean none landed there.
 
I have been super happy with my first waxed chain last year on dirty mtb use. Super quiet and not much dirt sticks to it.

The part I cant figure out is the re waxing. Am I supposed to completely strip it again with solvent and start over every time?

I fear anything other than complete strip would contaminate my wax pot.

After the first hot wax I would just hose it off after each dirty ride and reapply drip wax.

I ride 9speed chains so for $15 I can swap new chains every few months but that feels wasteful.
 
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