new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

Nothing is simple with this. Had to file for an hour to make that work . I still got to file the other washer and the lawers lip on the other side. Please tell me if the wheel is on the right side of the bike. Hope to get this thing going tommorow. Also is it ok to charge the batteries tonight when I get back from posting this. Will be at the library tommorow for some final answers. Thanks Latecurtis.

 

[DrkAngel]

Hmmm ... that's funny ...

Is the washer only partially seated into the indentation?
Or did you file away much of the torsional strength of the fork?

Yes you can insert much larger pictures!
If you are using 12% ... try 25% again!

 

[DAND214]

It appears you need another washer in the pic. Needs to be a little above the shock/lip orthe nut will crack the fork.

Sorry LC but all the plugs were all per setup to plug together. Only thing you needed was to make the connection to the controller.

None of the wiring I sent was for the controller, just power for the controller.

As for the size of the pic, it's not too small just not detailed to see what is what. Take multipul pics of what you did from above not in front of it. Too confusing that way.

Yeah, the multistar 6s 16000mah would work the best for you.

Yes the standard frt brakes will do fine if adjusted correctly.

so you say, it's all permanetly done.
Hope it's correct.

Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

Nothing is simple with this. Had to file for an hour to make that work . I still got to file the other washer and the lawers lip on the other side. Please tell me if the wheel is on the right side of the bike. Hope to get this thing going tommorow. Also is it ok to charge the batteries tonight when I get back from posting this. Will be at the library tommorow for some final answers. Thanks Latecurtis.

Do not remove any of the "Lawyer Lip" you want-need that extra strength!
Add 2nd or thicker washer.

Read instructions for proper wheel mounting or
look for "direction of rotation" or arrow on motor or
put disc on side that has disc brake mounting points.
(For directions ... might need to find Chinglish >> English dictionary?)

Use multimeter to confirm all connections before connecting batteries.
Might be a good idea for 2nd person to independently confirm all circuits being proper!
Highly recommend installing fuse or fuses before hooking up anything!!!

 

[DrkAngel]

Your original eZip batteries were
24V 10Ah(SLA) = 240wh
but if run out in ½ hour supplied 120wh.

36V 22Ah(SLA) = 792wh
but if run out in ½ hour supplied 396wh.

44.4V 10Ah(LiPo) = 444wh
Actual metered will supply ~400wh
So, same battery usable capacity as 36V 22Ah SLA

But!
Original eZip motor with 36V controller was limited to < 1000w use.
New hub motor - controller might drain higher than 2000w!
So ... dependent on throttle use ... you might have ~½ the range of your 36V 22Ah oem eZip motor rig.

Your new eZip rig with 1000w motor will have nearly identical specs.

 

[DAND214]

Your original eZip batteries were
24V 10Ah(SLA) = 240wh
but if run out in ½ hour supplied 120wh.

36V 22Ah(SLA) = 792wh
but if run out in ½ hour supplied 396wh.

44.4V 10Ah(LiPo) = 444wh
Actual metered will supply ~400wh
So, same battery usable capacity as 36V 22Ah SLA

But!
Original eZip motor with 36V controller was limited to < 1000w use.
New hub motor - controller might drain higher than 2000w!
So ... dependent on throttle use ... you might have ~½ the range of your 36V 22Ah oem eZip motor rig.

Your new eZip rig with 1000w motor will have nearly identical specs.

Unfortunatly he now only has about 4.5Ah at 44.4v. So less than half of what you listed and it will be a one run deal.
LC insists, no alarms! So run it till it drops and throw it away is what I am worried about.
Hundreds of dollars and xx hours of support from this great community just makes me sick.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

front kit is installed no cracks in the fork. getting a reverse polarity reading on the charger though. It cant be my wiring. something to with the parallel board I think. I don't know if I can charge my batteries. Everything else is ready to go. Don't know what to make of that though.

 

[mark5]

Unfortunatly he now only has about 4.5Ah at 44.4v. So less than half of what you listed and it will be a one run deal.

Don't worry, he said he combined the packs. I hope that means he somehow from intuition made 2 10Ah packs.

 

[DrkAngel]

4x 22.2V @ 4.5Ah = 44.4V @ 9Ah = 44.4 x 9 = 399.6Wh

 

[latecurtis]

No! You guys misunderstood me. I combined both packs for 10 ah each like you said awhile ago. But when I hooked them up to the parallel board. The charger said reverse polarity.
Me and Douge went to my house and I hooked everything to the controller with the controller switch on and I fried out a plug. I took off all the tape and the 4 - Lipos are as they were now.
I don't know how to hook up 4 Lipos to charge or run the bike. I have officially given up on trying to do it.

However all may not be lost!! I made a deal I did not really want to make but did. I traded the specialized for a trek with a full cromolly frame. The front wheel kit that was on the Specialized was never uninstalled. Douge took the goose-neck and forks wheel kit I successfully installed are on the trek. I am bringing over to his house both chargers. The batteries and controller are there.

I wont be online as much as I am giving back the Toshiba tablet for Douge to install and hook up everything and make it work. Hopefully in a few days I will have a fully functional e bike.
He will show me how to charge the batteries and it should be rolling at about 27 mph. Please help him if he needs it. Because your really helping me. I got in way over my head on this one but at least I can take credit for installing the front kit onto the bike. Now hopefully Douge, with your help can finish the job. He has a phone and internet at his house. I will leave him my log on information and hope for the best.
Sincerelly Latecurtis out.

 

[DrkAngel]

That is why I told you to test with multimeter ... to make sure you hooked everything up properly.
Multimeter tells you voltage and polarity (pos & neg)
I diagramed up as simple and idiot proof as possible ... ?

 

[mark5]

But when I hooked them up to the parallel board. The charger said reverse polarity.

Me and Douge went to my house and I hooked everything to the controller with the controller switch on and I fried out a plug.

Hope the plug was the only thing fried.

Now there's a new opportunity with his friend Doug to get things right.

 

[DAND214]

But when I hooked them up to the parallel board. The charger said reverse polarity.

It only plugs into the para-board one way!
Red to Red and Black to Black. Bannas into charger red to red and again black to black.

What a Frokin shame.

I guess it was ust too easy.

Me and Douge went to my house and I hooked everything to the controller with the controller switch on and I fried out a plug.

Hope the plug was the only thing fried.

Now there's a new opportunity with his friend Doug to get things right.

If you fried a plug while hooking up the controller, you've might of done in the controller.

Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

The charger told you you had reverse polarity? - hooked up backwards!
So you plugged it into the controller anyways?
The same wrong way? - backwards!
Ouch!

Don't know if I can say anything ...

 

[mark5]

Could be LC didn't follow the red female black male convention at the packs' plugs. Should check polarity there. LC's friend will need a multimeter. He needs to fix that before plugging anything together again.

 

[DrkAngel]

But when I hooked them up to the parallel board. The charger said reverse polarity.

Me and Douge went to my house and I hooked everything to the controller with the controller switch on and I fried out a plug.

Hope the plug was the only thing fried.

Now there's a new opportunity with his friend Doug to get things right.

Yeah ... hopefully!
But controllers usually fry when hooked up with reverse polarity.
If lucky the connector fried quick enough ... ?

Can't emphasize enough again! the importance of a fuse!

 

[DrkAngel]

That is why I told you to test with multimeter ... to make sure you hooked everything up properly.
Multimeter tells you voltage and polarity (pos & neg)
I diagramed up as simple and idiot proof as possible ... ?

The charger told you you had reverse polarity? - hooked up backwards!
So you plugged it into the controller anyways?
The same wrong way? - backwards!
Ouch!

Don't know if I can say anything ...

Sorry ... frustrating ...

Possible problems:
1. Hooked up backwards Most likely!
2. Hooked up as 24s instead of 2x 12s - might overload charger and controller?
(Doesn't understand serial vs parallel?)
3. Some funky parallel board miswire?

Solution
Rip apart all the parallel board crap
Look at my last KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) diagrams
Make sure each 6s2p is pos to pos, neg to neg and balance to balance, using power Y, power Y and balance Y
Use multimeter and test polarity and voltage Pos & neg and >44.4V <50.4V
Add fuse!!!
Rig as "Run"

Pray controller not destroyed ...
Connect to controller after confirming positively Positive to Positive input,
Negative to Negative input etc.

Charging
Until 3rd balance Y acquired ...
Separate 2 6s2p in center
Confirm Pos & Neg with multimeter
Plug into charger - Pos, Neg and balance
Set to Lipo 6s Balance 2A or 3A
Charge

Repeat with 2nd 6s2p ...

I have nearly infinite patience with machines (computers etc ) they are only what they are ... and it is my responsibility to understand them if I want to deal with them.
With full grown humans ... I expect a modicum of reasonability or I just can't afford to invest too much patience towards them.

 

[mark5]

Latecurtis and Douge:

Here's the convention for attaching bullet connectors to lipo packs and controllers:

1. You see in the picture where the battery side's black wire goes to a male connector and the red wire goes to a female connector. That's how it has to be on the battery side.

2. On the controller side it has to be the opposite way. The controller side's black wire goes to a female connector and its red wire goes to a male connector.

If you swap one side's (battery or controller) M/F +/- orientation but not the other side you'll probably damage the controller.

You need to make sure 1 and 2 above are the way described before plugging anything together again.

 

[DrkAngel]

Original package included
4 6s1p Lipo Bullet connectors
2 dual power Y Bullet to batteries Anderson to charger and controller
2 Balance Y

Take 2 top batteries
Take 1 power Y hook to both batteries red to red black to black
Confirm 22.2V+ and proper pos and neg
Connect balance Y = splitter to both balance connectors
You now have 6s2p pack

Repeat with lower 2 batteries


You are now rigged for charging one 6s2p at a time
Connect 1a and 1b to charger
connect shared balance wire to charger
Set charger to
Lipo
Balance
6s
3A
begin Balance (charge)

Repeat with 2nd 6s2p

Run
Both packs charged and balanced
Connect 1b to 2b - Black to Red they will plug into each other
Confirm 1a to 2a = ~50V and Red positive Black negative
Connect 1a and 2b to controller making certain that positive goes to positive input, negative to negative
Ready to roll

 

[DrkAngel]

Take your multimeter, and check your present rig and tell us what voltage and polarity you created.

 

[DAND214]

Original package included
4 6s1p Lipo Bullet connectors
2 dual power Y Bullet to batteries Anderson to charger and controller
2 Balance Y

Take 2 top batteries
Take 1 power Y hook to both batteries red to red black to black
Confirm 22.2V+ and proper pos and neg
Connect balance Y = splitter to both balance connectors
You now have 6s2p pack

Repeat with lower 2 batteries


You are now rigged for charging one 6s2p at a time
Connect 1a and 1b to charger
connect shared balance wire to charger
Set charger to
Lipo
Balance
6s
3A
Charge

Repeat with 2nd 6s2p

Run
Both packs charged and balanced
Connect 1b to 2b - Black to Red they will plug into each other
Confirm 1a to 2a = ~50V and Red positive Black negative
Connect 1a and 2b to controller making certain that positive goes to positive input, negative to negative
Ready to roll

Thanks DrkAngel for your help. I have tried to aim him in the right direction, so your help is really appreciated.
The pic shows what I sent but not how it was shipped.
I had matched up packs, the y harness was taped red to black and the ends open. Sent extra Andersons for thr controller or charger.
I really thought it was kinda self explanitory.
Called him and said to ask if he had any questions, just call.

So now LC has the wheel installed,. still very worried if it,s even titght enough

I know LC is a little hyper and also very tight on the money side.

So as much as I want to give up, I als0 want this project running.

Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

Damn! ...

Fraid I'd have to be "hands on" to autopsy that massacre ...

Hopefully he didn't chop up any of the original connectors ... ?

Final Points!
#1. Learn how to, and use, your multimeter!
#2. A <$1 fuse can save you hundreds of dollars of heartache!
#3 KISS©® (Keep It Simple Stupid)
Get functional 1st.
Grow your knowledge and ability.
Learn to walk before you take off running.
You can always get more complex later ...

... might have nightmares about bare wires twisted together under all that tape

 

[latecurtis]

I just thought it would be helpful to better understand what needs to be done to rectify the situtation by clearly showing the mistake that was made yesterday. The first was a simple reverse polarity reading when I hooked up the charger for the first time. I dont know where that came from as it is kind of hard to screw up with red and black wires and black and white wires comming from the parallel board.

the fried plug was an obvious mistake as the controller was turned on in the metal box with the Lipos on top of them in their box. The only reason Douge did not get shocked was I warned him he was hooking it up hot. I thought since the throttle was not pressed that nothing would happen. I was going to hook up a kill switch for the throttle but did not have one, I was wrong and am admitting my mistake. If I have to get a new controller than I will. Also hopefully this diagram will solve the mystery of the missing lipos. There are still 4 Lipos as I just unhooked the plugs and took apart the wiring harness I made to combine them. Also checked and red is to red and black to black. I dont get that charger reading.

Also Douge helped me with the decision to mount the controller where it is now. I agreed as I did not really want two metal boxes in the basket. I was just struggeling with where to put the controller. It now looks like a professional set up. Also I am really kind of out of it as I finally realized that Dan sent me two Lipo bags. I did not know what they were until now. I was throwing out the empty box and discovered them.

It seems like the Lipo bags will fit perfect in the metal box. I also discovered where the wires come out the Lipo bag. I am wondering how long I can get bullet plug extenders and balance plug extenders for Lipos. The Lipo bags can be turned in so the wires come out the bag in the front of the box and go around the bag to the back of the box where the holes are drilled.

I dont know if I dare say that you would not have to watch them during charging but I do know that it would reduce the chances of any sparks escaping and starting a fire dramattaclly. Almost a 0 % chance with a setup like that. Also I bought a fire extingusher from Douge so I dont fear Lipo fires anymore. Talk about them all you guys want. Its not going to happen to me.

I could use a link for really long bullet plug and balance plug extenders. Lets go with about 16 to 18 inches. Then a wiring harness for the controller hookup. and a seperate harness for the parallel charging. 4 extenders for the balance plugs and a third Y extender I think. I will step back and leave the rest up to Douge and you guys. I hope I wont need a new controller and can get the plugs and connectors needed to finish the job.

I want to move on to my next build which I talked to Douge about earlier. A 20 inch BMX build.
As long as I can get a seat high enough and raise the handelbars It will work good for me.
I remember that 1500 watt brushless motor which looked very similar to the MY1020 motor on the currie. It was only about 7 pounds I think. About half the weight and 50% higher output than the MY1020 brushed motor. The thing is it would be impossible to use it on a 26 inch bike as they dont make a wheel sprocket big enough. It is rated over 6000 rpm I think. Ill be looking it up tommorow.
It will be the fork motor prototype. With a 20 inch wheel it will work well. Very well at about 42 mph.LOL.


Latecurtis out.

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GARTT1600kv-1500w-Brushless-Motor-for-500-Align-Trex-RC-Helicopter-/251470592125?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a8cd0b87d

Man I hope that's around next month when I get money again

 

[latecurtis]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRUSHLESS-MID-AXIAL-MOTOR-48V-1500W-CONTROLLER-E-SCOOTER-E-BIKE-QUAD-BIKE-CAR-/201060585451?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed0250feb

That was the original motor I was talking about.