Decided to restore the broken casting. Where it is possible imposed seam welding. Inside the lined surface. Also modified the surface of the body Motor, it is well found support in the frame in two places where attached metal plate and on the other hand frame. On the bb did back mounting bolts fixation. Extended mounting bolts metal plate and planted on lock thread. Now design looks very strong. I understand that Weld much weaker factory casting, but let's try welding. If it will break, I buy another set)) p.s. also has established a bronze gear. It is quite heavy (162 grams). Turner reduce weight, removing the extra metal. It looks strong enough even now and weighs (102 grams).
New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
Hi Casainho!
I'm really excited to try out your Open Source Firmware with LCD3 - I compiled the latest firmware and flashed the controller and the LCD3. When I first plugged it in, it kept running the motor until the max speed (which it then reduced): throttle worked and brakes stopped everything, but I didn't do any more digging, and wanted to have a functional bike for a bit. I then tried to reflash back to my original improved original firmware and LCD3 I had before, and it didn't work. Then I reflashed the Open Source TSDZ2 firmware and appropriate LCD3 firmware for it, and now using the LCD for debugging, I have throttle and torque signals (zero at rest, and engaged when activated), but the motor doesn't turn. I'm not sure where the error is: maybe blown MOSFETS, but my current stated maximum 18, and it had no load just for 10-15 seconds.
I'm curious if I'm supposed to flash some option bytes and different eeprom values for the Open Source Firmware for the TSDZ2 controller. Could you give me any advice?
Update: turns out that the option bytes and eeprom were incorrectly configured - I got my original configuration back after re-flashing the original eeprom/option bytes and the updated firmware. I tried re-flashing the Open Source Firmware and matched LCD3, but it didn't work (values work in debugging, but the power doesn't transfer to the controller - no longer keeps the motor on).
Also, I realized my guide for the windows made reference to .bin files, where the windows program can only read .hex files: not sure if there is an easy way to convert or upload the files to .hex (I know how to compile both, but can't find the option_bytes.hex for the LCD3. I will get on this because what you did is really awesome!
I'm really excited to try out your Open Source Firmware with LCD3 - I compiled the latest firmware and flashed the controller and the LCD3. When I first plugged it in, it kept running the motor until the max speed (which it then reduced): throttle worked and brakes stopped everything, but I didn't do any more digging, and wanted to have a functional bike for a bit. I then tried to reflash back to my original improved original firmware and LCD3 I had before, and it didn't work. Then I reflashed the Open Source TSDZ2 firmware and appropriate LCD3 firmware for it, and now using the LCD for debugging, I have throttle and torque signals (zero at rest, and engaged when activated), but the motor doesn't turn. I'm not sure where the error is: maybe blown MOSFETS, but my current stated maximum 18, and it had no load just for 10-15 seconds.
I'm curious if I'm supposed to flash some option bytes and different eeprom values for the Open Source Firmware for the TSDZ2 controller. Could you give me any advice?
Update: turns out that the option bytes and eeprom were incorrectly configured - I got my original configuration back after re-flashing the original eeprom/option bytes and the updated firmware. I tried re-flashing the Open Source Firmware and matched LCD3, but it didn't work (values work in debugging, but the power doesn't transfer to the controller - no longer keeps the motor on).
Also, I realized my guide for the windows made reference to .bin files, where the windows program can only read .hex files: not sure if there is an easy way to convert or upload the files to .hex (I know how to compile both, but can't find the option_bytes.hex for the LCD3. I will get on this because what you did is really awesome!
This is my solution to mount to the frame when the stock solution doesn't fit: I had a sideways hose clamp for a while, and it worked great, just changed to this setup, as I realized it was possible - will update if this doesn't work, but currently trying to get the open source firmware working on my machine 
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John and Cecil
10 kW
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2018
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- 529
MaartenL said:
I cannot give you a number from the center of the bb as I do not know how you plan on shimming it. I measured my motor for you (rough measurement plus or minus a few millimeters) from the edge of the bottom bracket casting to the center-line of the 42t offset chainring. I am getting about 17mm +/-. I believe I read the stock offset chainring is about 5mm so I would assume a non offset chainring would be about 22mm +/-.
Also you might want to measure how far back the chainstays get wider than the bb to make sure the engine housing plate is not going to hit that before reaching the bb, otherwise you will need to put a washer(s) between the bb and the engine housing until it does not make contact with the chainstays, and thus increasing the chainline measurement.
casainho
10 GW
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- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,047
I am now only using the OpenSource firmware in my ebike and I use it daily. Also I will do a hard trail in some days of 75kms + 60kms and I will need to manage very well the batteries packs power other way I will not be able to finish, so limiting the power on LCD is a must, so I really need to have OpenSource firmware working well.pawepie said:
Right now, the only thing missing is startup from torque sensor because right now it only does human power that is zero if cadence is zero, so don't startup the motor if pedals are stopped.
To help you, I need to follow your steps! So, please give me your github account so you can write a wiki page with the steps you are doing to flash and I will follow and correct them - and yes, this way we will be helping the next ones
Hillhater
100 TW
pawepie said:This is my solution to mount to the frame when the stock solution doesn't fit: I had a sideways hose clamp for a while, and it worked great, just changed to this setup, as I realized it was possible - will update if this doesn't work, but currently trying to get the open source firmware working on my machine
.. that is a seriously BAD IDEA !!Do not ride like that.
You have strapped the motor casing to the swing arm which moves independent to the bbracket to which the rest of the drive is fixed .
feketehegyi said:
Hey thats really cool! Thx for your work. Would be nice to have to OpenSource Firmware being controlled by android phone! :wink:
In my opinion it would make more sense to leave the lcd3 path and go straight to an app for the opensource firmware.
nodemcu devel board with wifi included would be very easy to attach and costs only 3 dollars.
one other thing: could you make a drawing of the pin out of your poor man connector?
so which pin of tsdz2 male connector do we need for flashing / powering? thx!
jbalat
10 kW
Some cool stuff going on here!
Question
To program the lcd3 without connection to the motor can I just use 5v to j7 from the dongle ?
Question
To program the lcd3 without connection to the motor can I just use 5v to j7 from the dongle ?
TomTom,
Yes, that is the FS design but there is also a hardtail one with more to follow I'm sure. The manufacturers are ready and able to meet individual design criteria as well.
The Bafang M600 is my target motor not the Ultra. Much lighter at 3.4kg and a 176mm Q factor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZR0gFy1xIGQ
Bafang will always make kit motors but they seem to be going toe to toe with the EU integrated motor/battery designs in a big way. https://www.bike-eu.com/home/nieuws/2017/08/bafang-introduces-m500-mid-motor-for-e-mtbs-10130989
At this time though regarding the TSDZ2 Q Factor is about as good as it is going to get. I was not a fan of mid drives based on the BBS motors and their cadence sensing PAS and am thankful it came along and turned me on to the possibility of torque assist going forward. I'll stick with it until something develops with the M600 no problem.
Yes, that is the FS design but there is also a hardtail one with more to follow I'm sure. The manufacturers are ready and able to meet individual design criteria as well.
The Bafang M600 is my target motor not the Ultra. Much lighter at 3.4kg and a 176mm Q factor: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZR0gFy1xIGQ
Bafang will always make kit motors but they seem to be going toe to toe with the EU integrated motor/battery designs in a big way. https://www.bike-eu.com/home/nieuws/2017/08/bafang-introduces-m500-mid-motor-for-e-mtbs-10130989
At this time though regarding the TSDZ2 Q Factor is about as good as it is going to get. I was not a fan of mid drives based on the BBS motors and their cadence sensing PAS and am thankful it came along and turned me on to the possibility of torque assist going forward. I'll stick with it until something develops with the M600 no problem.
.. that is a seriously BAD IDEA !!Do not ride like that.
You have strapped the motor casing to the swing arm which moves independent to the bbracket to which the rest of the drive is fixed .
[/quote]
Thanks for pointing that out! The swing arm distance travelled there is small, but that could cause something to crack for sure.
John and Cecil
10 kW
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2018
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- 529
pawepie said:
Perhaps you could run something between the bb and the swing arm pivot and then anchor the motor up over the bb and around the seat tube. Perhaps an open ended stainless clamp could slip through the opening while being pressed up tightly against the bb and then attached to a heavy duty cable tie which goes around the seat tube.
feketehegyi
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2018
- Messages
- 117
vscope said:
Thanks! My ST-Link V2 Programming Unit is ordered already, so it takes some time till I can play with OpenSource Firmware. I can also imagine that the app will be capable to deal with both original and casainho's firmware.
I'll try out if data can be sent via Bluetooth, however it's a relative frequent communication between Display and Motor.
I've not heard about nodemcu yet. It seems to be an Arduino like board.
Regarding to your question, I've used hurzhurz's documentation. Take care this is the female one going to LCD. Pin out:
https://github.com/hurzhurz/tsdz2/blob/master/pinout.md
Serial communication:
https://github.com/hurzhurz/tsdz2/blob/master/serial-communication.md
Hillhater
100 TW
The The VLDC5 display has a USB port.
Does anyone know if this has any functionality beyond 5v phone charge point ?
Could it be adapted as a controller programming link conection point ?
Does anyone know if this has any functionality beyond 5v phone charge point ?
Could it be adapted as a controller programming link conection point ?
casainho
10 GW
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- Feb 14, 2011
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Here a DIY Bluetooth module that can even turn on/off the motor controller -- this module works for KT motor controllers, so it is just equal for TSDZ2: https://opensourceebikefirmware.bitbucket.io/development/Motor_controllers--BMSBattery_S_series--Bluetooh--DIY_Bluetooth_module.htmlfeketehegyi said:
And here an example of an Android app that communicates to a Bluetooth module and sends and receives data in real time from the motor controller (in this case from an electric unicycle): https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki/EGG-app
jbalat
10 kW
Using stm32 cube programmer in Windows with 5v from the stlink to j7
It would not connect to the lcd but recognised the stlink.
I pressed erase. The lcd3 power has gone off and it's been thinking for 10 minutes.. should I leave it ?
Actually nothing happened.. it won't connect. Any ideas gurus ?
It would not connect to the lcd but recognised the stlink.
I pressed erase. The lcd3 power has gone off and it's been thinking for 10 minutes.. should I leave it ?
Actually nothing happened.. it won't connect. Any ideas gurus ?
Attachments
Interesting. Thanks for the links.Hillhater said:There is a thread on new integrated motor bikes further down in this forum....not all cheap options though.tomtom50 said:
But i posted this commet before..
"complete bikes apearing daily for the Bafang Ultra and Max drive units..
Some well below $2k
https://ansbernbikes.en.alibaba.com/product/60774206054-806314918/2018_Hot_Sale_CE_Approved_27_5_3_0_Full_Suspension_Bafang_48V_1000W_21AH_Mountain_Electric_Bike.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.prewdfa4cf.19.6c5e7cb5hpRLYi
https://ansbernbikes.en.alibaba.com/?sp ... 15e5UzuiwM
eyebyesickle
10 kW
tomtom50 said:
Great, let me know if there are any problems, some versions need the program memory flashed to a different file also :/
Which I can provide as needed and if it comes up alot I'll edit the doc. 82 works fine for 52v though it seems, it's was the program memory problem I describe above in this case...
jbalat
10 kW
eyebyesickle hi.. i found your guide.. thank you.
https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch
which is pretty cool. Im trying to erase the LCD but it wont because it says its protected...
Also the bin files posted need to be in hex format so i'm thinking they could be converted
https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch
which is pretty cool. Im trying to erase the LCD but it wont because it says its protected...
Also the bin files posted need to be in hex format so i'm thinking they could be converted
