New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[mctubster]

I will install temperature sensor to my TSDZ2. Wiki says to use LM35 sensor. Is LM335 also usable? I can get that on my local electronic shop. Here is datasheet: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm135.pdf

Isn't the 335 the Kelvin version? I believe you want the 35 which is the Celsius version. So in my opinion, no it won't work unless there is a config option for that sensor. Someone coding will know off the top of their head.

 

[dameri]

I will install temperature sensor to my TSDZ2. Wiki says to use LM35 sensor. Is LM335 also usable? I can get that on my local electronic shop. Here is datasheet: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm135.pdf

Isn't the 335 the Kelvin version? I believe you want the 35 which is the Celsius version. So in my opinion, no it won't work unless there is a config option for that sensor. Someone coding will know off the top of their head.

Local shop has description of LM335: Precision Temperature Sensors -40/100°C 2°C-error

 

[dameri]

I will install temperature sensor to my TSDZ2. Wiki says to use LM35 sensor. Is LM335 also usable? I can get that on my local electronic shop. Here is datasheet: http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm135.pdf

Isn't the 335 the Kelvin version? I believe you want the 35 which is the Celsius version. So in my opinion, no it won't work unless there is a config option for that sensor. Someone coding will know off the top of their head.

Local shop has description of LM335: Precision Temperature Sensors -40/100°C 2°C-error

I think now I found the right one, it was LM35DZ at local shop.

Description:

calibrated temperature sensor that produces a linear voltage equal to the absolute temperature

operating voltage: +4 ... 30VDC

nominal output voltage: 250mV @ +25°C

nominal temperature coefficient: 10mV/°C

own power consumption: 60µA

current output capacity: max 10mA

accuracy: ±0.6°C @ +25°C

nonlinearity: ±0.2°C

operating temperature: 0°C ... +100°C

 

[mctubster]

I think now I found the right one, it was LM35DZ at local shop.

As long as it has three legs, it will be OK - the packaging is 100% plastic though, the T package has a metal end with a hole for mounting that I would likely conduct the heat a little better. Anyway as long as you buy from a reputable seller, there are a lot of Chinese fakes around

 

[andrea_104kg]

Extreme solution for cooling motor

 

[andrea_104kg]

I opened the engine, the first problem is that it doesn't have a flat surface so I had to put some copper plate plates to make it fit between one screw and another.
Then I used the dremel to make two beautiful buttonholes on the crankcase.
I folded a 0.6 mm copper sheet to make fins and inserted them into the slots. The fins are held in pressure by the thin stainless steel wire. Obviously there are still "holes from which water could enter, you can't see in the photos but I filled everything with black refractory silicone.
The problem of heat can be said to be solved at -20 degrees compared to before.
- if I keep street mode at 350w the engine does not exceed 65-70 degrees even after long climbs
- if I go on long climbs over 500w I arrive at 80 degrees where before it was over 100,
- The temperature rises very slowly, the climb must really be long, otherwise the temperature does not reach 80 degrees.
- all this with 30 grades ambient temperature at the start I think that as soon as it refreshes a little it will still improve
- the fast climbs on the road to the max from warm engine to 60 ° no longer make me reach 103 ° in 500mt of climb but at 75 °
with an external temperature of 13-14 degrees I was able to laugh at 90 degrees, so the change was extreme but decisive
Of course if now the blue gear breaks and I have to take it down everything I have to ask for the holidays ...

 

[mctubster]

I opened the engine, the first problem is that it doesn't have a flat surface so I had to put some copper plate plates to make it fit between one screw and another.
Then I used the dremel to make two beautiful buttonholes on the crankcase.
I folded a 0.6 mm copper sheet to make fins and inserted them into the slots. The fins are held in pressure by the thin stainless steel wire. Obviously there are still "holes from which water could enter, you can't see in the photos but I filled everything with black refractory silicone.
The problem of heat can be said to be solved at -20 degrees compared to before.
- if I keep street mode at 350w the engine does not exceed 65-70 degrees even after long climbs
- if I go on long climbs over 500w I arrive at 80 degrees where before it was over 100,
- The temperature rises very slowly, the climb must really be long, otherwise the temperature does not reach 80 degrees.
- all this with 30 grades ambient temperature at the start I think that as soon as it refreshes a little it will still improve
- the fast climbs on the road to the max from warm engine to 60 ° no longer make me reach 103 ° in 500mt of climb but at 75 °
with an external temperature of 13-14 degrees I was able to laugh at 90 degrees, so the change was extreme but decisive
Of course if now the blue gear breaks and I have to take it down everything I have to ask for the holidays ...

Very impressive. Shows how good an insulator air is. Also what is the bike, very serious looking pivot points.

 

[casainho]

Motor not working but pulling power from battery
I got an issue that I never saw no one mention it. It was strange and at start I thought it could be something with our OpenSource firmware but I am now thinking it is an hardware issue because lately it happens much more frequently.

It happens like this: I feel the motor is not assisting at all although I look at LCD and I see motor power that increases as expected when I put more human on pedals, although, I see the motor power get to max value of only 220 watts. There is no noise on the motor while this happens. When this happens, usually, if I restarting pedaling the issue disappears.

Does anyone knows what is happening? I need to discover and then I want to update the TSDZ2 wiki with this issue and the solution.

After opening the motor, I verified that the blue gear was damaged. Luckily not that much and because of that it didn't fatal failed when I was far from home on mountains.

 

[adam B]

Does anyone no why all the 52v controllers are out of stock everywhere??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dameri]

Does anyone no why all the 52v controllers are out of stock everywhere??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it is same controller as 48 V version, because there is no 52 V version of TSDZ2. Only 36 V and 48 V versions and you can put 52 V battery to 48 V version.

Here is 48 V controller: http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2016-7n-kxr0

 

[ezrider1199]

Hi all,

I looked at the wiki and drew up a quick throttle and brake wiring diagram before i start hacking things up. If someone can confirm if its correct I would appreciate it. Thank you

 

[mctubster]

Hi all,

I looked at the wiki and drew up a quick throttle and brake wiring diagram before i start hacking things up. If someone can confirm if its correct I would appreciate it. Thank you

The brake cable is active low, that is it already has 5 volts on it. When you brake the switch connects the 5v brake wire to ground, essentially shorting it, activating the braking circuit.

Assuming you have two wire brake sensors, eg a switch or magnetic you need to connect one wire to the brake wire and the other wire of the brake lever to ground.

If you have three wire brake sensors, then you need all three. Need more info in that case

 

[RicMcK]

I don't know how to post new topics to this forum (I just changed the subject). Please advise.

I just finished installing a 750W@48V system on my touring bike with dropped bars. I primarily use this bike for commuting and getting around town (in Settle WA). It makes me feel 30 years younger. I updated to the LCD3 & temperature sensor. The only issues I had was the wiring description for the 8 wire motor to the LCD3 has the yellow and green wires reversed. I took the 6 pin connector set from the VLCD5 button controller and made a quick access plug for future updates to the LDC3 firmware, so I don't have to open the case again. I had to drill holes in the rear mounting brackets for the shifting cables as they run under the bottom bracket. I am still struggling to find a solution to adding 2 front chainrings. I can easily mount 2 rings, but I can't find a front derailer with enough travel to reach the outer chainring due to the offset. I mounted the selector switch on the dropped bars under the front brake lever. I can easily operate it with my fingers while having my hands on the brake hoods

The firmware upgrade is FABULOUS. I want to thank EVERYONE who has helped make this happen at Casainho, OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki, and jbalatutube for the YouTube videos to show how to do it all.

I have only taken it on a short ride this far but I can say the firmware upgrade is GREAT.

Other than the duel front chainring issue (which I think I can solve with a creative mount for the front derailer,) I need a good headlight and a place to mount it as the center of the bars are consumed by the display and lengthen the control button wire.

If anyone has suggestions on the dual chainring (not the off the shelf steel ones) and a good headlight please let me know.

Thanks, Rick McK Seattle WA

 

[jimmyfergus]

The only issues I had was the wiring description for the 8 wire motor to the LCD3 has the yellow and green wires reversed.

Odd - I wired mine following the wiki and everything seems to work(?)

I had to drill holes in the rear mounting brackets for the shifting cables as they run under the bottom bracket.

I think a lot of people have had no issues with leaving out the mounting bracket, and just rotating the motor forward until it meets the frame (which is where it would go under torque). Ideally with some sort of rubber (some innertube?) between frame and motor.

I need a good headlight and a place to mount it

Most headlights mount to the fork crown, and that works out nicely. I've been very happy with Busch & Muller lights, and it seems from recent posts that the wiring works quite well for at least their 80 LUX models. It's usually worthwhile to order from Germany where these things seem to be much cheaper, especially if you want other stuff too to offset the shipping, e.g. http://bike-discount.de.

 

[ezrider1199]

Hi all,

I looked at the wiki and drew up a quick throttle and brake wiring diagram before i start hacking things up. If someone can confirm if its correct I would appreciate it. Thank you

The brake cable is active low, that is it already has 5 volts on it. When you brake the switch connects the 5v brake wire to ground, essentially shorting it, activating the braking circuit.

Assuming you have two wire brake sensors, eg a switch or magnetic you need to connect one wire to the brake wire and the other wire of the brake lever to ground.

If you have three wire brake sensors, then you need all three. Need more info in that case

I got it. Thanks!

 

[csbike]

hi all,
I am waiting for my LCD3 to arrive. But today i noticed something I had never paid attention to on my VLCD5.
When I turn it on and all the LCD segments light up, there is a "POWER" label that never shows up during usage. What is it for? is it for the TSDZ2? Is it for other motors?

thanks

 

[dilkes]

I'm considering installing a TSDZ2 on a friend's cargo trike. It may be a bit of a non-standard set up because of the bottom bracket config.

Does anyone know where I can find an engineering type drawing that shows all the dimensions of the motor?

 

[mctubster]

I'm considering installing a TSDZ2 on a friend's cargo trike. It may be a bit of a non-standard set up because of the bottom bracket config.

Does anyone know where I can find an engineering type drawing that shows all the dimensions of the motor?

 

[vadda]

Motor not working but pulling power from battery
I got an issue that I never saw no one mention it. It was strange and at start I thought it could be something with our OpenSource firmware but I am now thinking it is an hardware issue because lately it happens much more frequently.

It happens like this: I feel the motor is not assisting at all although I look at LCD and I see motor power that increases as expected when I put more human on pedals, although, I see the motor power get to max value of only 220 watts. There is no noise on the motor while this happens. When this happens, usually, if I restarting pedaling the issue disappears.

Does anyone knows what is happening? I need to discover and then I want to update the TSDZ2 wiki with this issue and the solution.

After opening the motor, I verified that the blue gear was damaged. Luckily not that much and because of that it didn't fatal failed when I was far from home on mountains.

Thanks for the feedback
How many Km have you on the Blue gear ?

 

[casainho]

Thanks for the feedback
How many Km have you on the Blue gear ?

I don't know but I know I gave hard times in last months in mountain biking.

But all the teeth seemed to be good unless 5 of them that were like kneaded. I would say it was because of suddenly strong force.

I think that we should use low value on the current ramp configuration and make sure that code has no issues.

Maybe we could force a limit of max current/torque untill the motor has some rotation, like do not let the motor push the gears at max torque at startup but increase that value as the motor speed increases -- like also a ramp up of torque with motor speed ramp up, so the force is distributed over all teeth due to the rotation of the gears -- does this make sense?? Anyone that knows how to calculate an approximation of force on the gears??

 

[LevelsAndMaps]

Anyone that knows how to calculate an approximation of force on the gears??

we could look at it from a T1 torque + T1 power vs T0 torque and speed.

basically compare the current requested torque and power levels versus 0.1 seconds ago.

that should indicate if you are catching up to the pedal request or still pushing higher in demand.

PS: I am a designer, not a software engineer Don't trust a word I say.

 

[RicMcK]

I am still messing with my new setup. It is 48V-750W with an LCD3 and temperature sensor, on a touring bike with dropped bars.

It seems as if the motor will only put out 300W max (I think), is this because I don't have the assist level multipliers set correctly?

motor control settings. Motor voltage type "0" Motor power limit 750W

Assist level questions:
5 levels
assist multiplier all default settings

Next, when cruising or low peddle force the system seems to drop in and out. I am running 175mm cranks so I only spin at 60-80 RPM. If I shift to high gear, slower cadence- more force the motor seems to kick in. The display shows about100 W and cycles on and off. I don't think I am peddling "in squares" so the torque sensor should be getting a constant single.

So my question is what settings do I need to adjust to get the motor to give me my 750W at assist level 5? And why does it fade on and off at light peddling force while spinning or riding easy?


PS: I am still messing with setting up 2 chainrings when I get it working I will post a description and photos.

Thanks
Rick McK Seattle

 

[Henro]

Hi everyone, I'm in the middle of setting up the Electrify Bike Kit with prewired connectors, and while I had no problems installing the firmware, I'm having some issues with the temperature sensor installation.
I believe this is the 8 wire version, since it came with a throttle and I counted 8 wires coming from the "controls" cable.

After cutting the orange wire, the motor would no longer boot properly, and the display would show the "88888" screen (all pixels activated). Reconnecting the wire resolved the issue. So I soldered a plug in parallel to what I understand are the throttle wires like the wiki says. GND to the black wire, 5v to the white wire, and signal to the orange wire. No issues until I plug in the temperature sensor, which gives me the "88888" screen once again.

After a few times fiddling with it, a new issue arose. Now the motor boots as soon as I plug in the battery, functions normally, but when I try to turn it off the pixels disappear and the backlight stays on. At that point it's frozen and I have to unplug the battery to get anything to happen.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice you can provide.

Update:
I've reflashed the firmware, and the same problems persist.

 

[mctubster]

I am still messing with my new setup. It is 48V-750W with an LCD3 and temperature sensor, on a touring bike with dropped bars.

It seems as if the motor will only put out 300W max (I think), is this because I don't have the assist level multipliers set correctly?

motor control settings. Motor voltage type "0" Motor power limit 750W

Assist level questions:
5 levels
assist multiplier all default settings

Make sure when you are turning on the system, that your feet are not on the pedals until the screen fully initialises. Each time the system boots the torque sensor calibrates and may be reading low if the above happens.

If you are not doing that please post your multiplier levels and firmware level as there were a few bugs fixed re assist level but they were generally over-assisting, not the other way around

 

[mctubster]

Hi everyone, I'm in the middle of setting up the Electrify Bike Kit with prewired connectors, and while I had no problems installing the firmware, I'm having some issues with the temperature sensor installation.
I believe this is the 8 wire version, since it came with a throttle and I counted 8 wires coming from the "controls" cable.

After cutting the orange wire, the motor would no longer boot properly, and the display would show the "88888" screen (all pixels activated). Reconnecting the wire resolved the issue. So I soldered a plug in parallel to what I understand are the throttle wires like the wiki says. GND to the black wire, 5v to the white wire, and signal to the orange wire. No issues until I plug in the temperature sensor, which gives me the "88888" screen once again.

After a few times fiddling with it, a new issue arose. Now the motor boots as soon as I plug in the battery, functions normally, but when I try to turn it off the pixels disappear and the backlight stays on. At that point it's frozen and I have to unplug the battery to get anything to happen.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice you can provide.

Update:
I've reflashed the firmware, and the same problems persist.

Re the first issue ... it sounds like the wiring loom you have - has different colours ... I would double check with Electrify, but I suspect they are having that harness custom made so the wiki is not correct. It sounds like orange was one of your data lines going to the screen. You should be able to trace what the colour of the throttle wire is by finding what colour wire from the loom goes to the THR solder pad in the image below



Re the second issue. No idea what is going on. Really hope you haven't damaged anything by connecting the temp sensor output to the display data line in parallel. Someone else hopefully has seen your issue before.

Good luck