New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[casainho]

I've read through the wiki and it is really informative. However, there are still a few things I'm wondering about:
How do I keep the firmware updated or change certain settings if I don't have a PC (only Apple computers here)? Can this be done over bluetooth with and android phone if I order the SW102 display?

I own a PC but running Linux, so, I need to follow specific instructions. For Windows will be other instructions. For MAC also others. So, if no one documented yet the process on MAC, do it for yourself and then share here or on the wiki, for the next ones.

Is the temperature sensor install really plug-and-play? As in: stick it on the motor, connect it to the new controller I'll be ordering and off I go?

Follow the wiki guide on How to install motor temperature sensor: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-motor-temperature-sensor

 

[phm2000]

Hi

I should change my torque sensor.
Should I hit with hammer on axis to enter it or not (it's hard with hand) ?

 

[andrea_104kg]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000121407019.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.33033f49VejZBU&algo_pvid=db15b36c-1467-4e2c-a624-f73966193a4d&algo_expid=db15b36c-1467-4e2c-a624-f73966193a4d-9&btsid=d4af5e3c-782f-4d81-940a-fd94eb0ac571&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1,searchweb201603_52

this is it a torque replacemente suitable for tsdz2?

 

[casainho]

Hi

I should change my torque sensor.
Should I hit with hammer on axis to enter it or not (it's hard with hand) ?

Yes, I do hit with the hammer but very slow and making sure the path is clear.

 

[casainho]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000121407019.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.33033f49VejZBU&algo_pvid=db15b36c-1467-4e2c-a624-f73966193a4d&algo_expid=db15b36c-1467-4e2c-a624-f73966193a4d-9&btsid=d4af5e3c-782f-4d81-940a-fd94eb0ac571&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1,searchweb201603_52

this is it a torque replacemente suitable for tsdz2?

That is just one coil, it is not the biggest part of the torque sensor. That coil and wires are very fragile - very nice to be able to buy them at unit!! That is why I like a lot TSDZ2, the repair parts are very cheap!!!!!!

 

[raven4is]

Hello,
I just bought a tsdz2 kit,
had some problems with chainline, for now grinding the housing got my chain line to 53mm,

Can somebody tell me if i can find the crank arm (righ one) with 0 Offset ?
But shipping to UK or Europe ?

The bafan crank arm has 0mm offset ?

https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p121/TSDZ2_Replacement_Cranks.html#/

Thanks!
Still trying to get best fit before getting OpenSource Firmware to set

 

[phm2000]

Hi

I should change my torque sensor.
Should I hit with hammer on axis to enter it or not (it's hard with hand) ?

Yes, I do hit with the hammer but very slow and making sure the path is clear.

Thanks, I'll try it

 

[phm2000]

Hello,
I just bought a tsdz2 kit,
had some problems with chainline, for now grinding the housing got my chain line to 53mm,

Can somebody tell me if i can find the crank arm (righ one) with 0 Offset ?
But shipping to UK or Europe ?

The bafan crank arm has 0mm offset ?

https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p121/TSDZ2_Replacement_Cranks.html#/

Thanks!
Still trying to get best fit before getting OpenSource Firmware to set

The Bafang crank arms have a small offset, but not 0, I'm loocking for that too.
I'm using tsdz2 left crank arm and bafang right.
Are there crankarms with smaller offset than Bafang ?
I saw that but I don't know if it's better than bafang or not.
http://www.shop.future-bike.it/futurebikeshop/prodotto/pedivella-dritta-atq-per-active-torque/

Ideal should be, bafang left and 0 offset right

 

[raven4is]

Hello,
I just bought a tsdz2 kit,
had some problems with chainline, for now grinding the housing got my chain line to 53mm,

Can somebody tell me if i can find the crank arm (righ one) with 0 Offset ?
But shipping to UK or Europe ?

The bafan crank arm has 0mm offset ?

https://www.electrifybike.com/store/p121/TSDZ2_Replacement_Cranks.html#/

Thanks!
Still trying to get best fit before getting OpenSource Firmware to set

The Bafang crank arms have a small offset, but not 0, I'm loocking for that too.
I'm using tsdz2 left crank arm and bafang right.
Are there crankarms with smaller offset than Bafang ?
I saw that but I don't know if it's better than bafang or not.
http://www.shop.future-bike.it/futurebikeshop/prodotto/pedivella-dritta-atq-per-active-torque/

Ideal should be, bafang left and 0 offset right

I am looking if i find 0 offset i will write here, thinking in writing a page with instruction and checks before buying witch parts and what to check for good fit.

I just measured a bit the difference, on my setup is already 2,5 mm to the right becasue of the frame hitting the case
but now from crank arm to frame inside i have
left : 15mm
right 44mm

so if the crank arm in the link you just sent is 20mm less it would be 15 - 24 mm .. in perfect fit of motor would end up 17,5 left - 21,5mm right that would be more than perfect, i will check about delivery cost and i will update

50 euro with shipping,
but searching i found this

https://www.amazon.com/BAFANG-Electric-Essential-Accessary-Accessories/dp/B07C5GZP6D?_encoding=UTF8&path=%2FBAFANG-Electric-Essential-Accessary-Accessories%2Fdp%2FB07C5GZP6D&useRedirectOnSuccess=1&th=1&psc=1

an in description is this i think is shipped from China
Product description
This is a replacement straight crankarm (no offset) that is the same as what is shipped with the BBS01 & BBS02 drive units
it seems its diamond tapered, so it seems like the right one, as it was reffered. the bafang has 0 or better told 5mm )
I will order as is cheaper with expres shipping is Romania is 28 usd only right side crank arm.

 

[ImpulsePurchase]

Hi

I should change my torque sensor.
Should I hit with hammer on axis to enter it or not (it's hard with hand) ?

Hitting with a hammer isn't a problem. I would remove the pedal shaft first though. There is a roller bearing in the centre of the housing that the torque sensor fits into (and spins on) and it is this that has a tight fit. If you remove the pedal shaft you can see how far onto the bearing you are so you can get a good fit. Its worth putting a little extra grease onto the bearing beforehand too.

Ideally you would use a press to push it in but I didn't have one big enough so used a hammer. Try not to directly strike the torque sensor - use a bit of wood or something to spread the impact a little.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Just wiring up a harness for a bike and long term plan is to fit the SW102 if the KT-LCD3 display eventually reaches its maturity date. Now the KT-LCD3 we have received from PSW Power has a connector which looks the same connector as the Bafung SW102. Does anyone know if the wiring pins are the same as that would be just too convenient, unplug the LCD3 and fit the SW102 ?

 

[phm2000]

Hi

I should change my torque sensor.
Should I hit with hammer on axis to enter it or not (it's hard with hand) ?

Hitting with a hammer isn't a problem. I would remove the pedal shaft first though. There is a roller bearing in the centre of the housing that the torque sensor fits into (and spins on) and it is this that has a tight fit. If you remove the pedal shaft you can see how far onto the bearing you are so you can get a good fit. Its worth putting a little extra grease onto the bearing beforehand too.

Ideally you would use a press to push it in but I didn't have one big enough so used a hammer. Try not to directly strike the torque sensor - use a bit of wood or something to spread the impact a little.

I succeed in, I heat inside motor with an air dryer and then I put torque sensor without difficulty

 

[jimmyfergus]

Now the KT-LCD3 we have received from PSW Power has a connector which looks the same connector as the Bafung SW102. Does anyone know if the wiring pins are the same as that would be just too convenient, unplug the LCD3 and fit the SW102 ?

Sadly no - different wiring.

 

[Nick2]

Regarding the crank offset, I was also looking at it, found in my garage one old left crank with zero offset. Then I discussed it with the bike mechanic, he told me that he can convert it to the right crank (basically drill out the left thread and put a new bushing with the right threading). Then I measured It against the original Tongsheng crank, the difference is 8mm only, so I concluded it is not worth the effort. Also there are different types and shapes of pedals available, so I bought the narrowest pair that I could find. I believe that alone reduced the Q factor by 15 - 20 mm.

 

[mctubster]

Regarding the crank offset, I was also looking at it, found in my garage one old left crank with zero offset. Then I discussed it with the bike mechanic, he told me that he can convert it to the right crank (basically drill out the left thread and put a new bushing with the right threading). Then I measured It against the original Tongsheng crank, the difference is 8mm only, so I concluded it is not worth the effort. Also there are different types and shapes of pedals available, so I bought the narrowest pair that I could find. I believe that alone reduced the Q factor by 15 - 20 mm.

From an earlier post I made

I have been obsessing over Q Factor for some time now. I bought some replacement cranks and measured against the bundled TSDZ2 cranks. Here are the results for my bike with bottom bracket width 70mm.

Original TSDZ2 crank arms (edited to make clearer)
206mm (offset 26mm to the right)

Shimano crank arm drive side (Shimano STePS FC-E6000) (kept original TSDZ2 crank arm non drive side to decrease the offset)
199mm (offset 19mm to the right)

Bafang straight crank arm drive side (AC08-2) (kept original TSDZ2 crank arm non drive side to decrease the offset)
193mm (offset 13mm to the right)

 

[famichiki]

I have a 48V motor and just bought a 52V battery and intend to use the OpenSource firmware, but first I want to try it out with the factory firmware for comparison.

...

Also they seem to only have one version of the 52V factory firmware for download, but should there be different versions for throttle/non-throttle?

The 52v profile works with or without a throttle, on 6 pin or 8 pin systems, FYI

Do you know if it's ok to perform the temperature sensor modification while still running the factory firmware? In preparation for running the OSF later. Or is that going to mess with the throttle input? I have the 8 pin system.

 

[obcd]

No, it's not ok.

It will be seen as a throttle signal. The temperature sensor outputs a voltage equivalent to the temperature. A throttle outputs a voltage depending upon it's position.

Maybe, if the throttle input could be disabled on the factory firmware, it would be ok. No idea if that's possible.

 

[eyebyesickle]

I have a 48V motor and just bought a 52V battery and intend to use the OpenSource firmware, but first I want to try it out with the factory firmware for comparison.

...

Also they seem to only have one version of the 52V factory firmware for download, but should there be different versions for throttle/non-throttle?

The 52v profile works with or without a throttle, on 6 pin or 8 pin systems, FYI

Do you know if it's ok to perform the temperature sensor modification while still running the factory firmware? In preparation for running the OSF later. Or is that going to mess with the throttle input? I have the 8 pin system.

I only connect the temp sensor with mini jst connectors so you can remove it as needed, so I say you absolutely can prepare ahead of time, just do it with a connector and leave the connector unplugged so it won't mess with the throttle signal...

 

[Pingu_3D]

TSDZ2 + LCD3 + v0.20.1 beta, 36v motor with 48v battery, ridden PAS mode and eMTB and seems to work well

But I couldn't get my speed sensor to work, tested at multiple distances from the magnet so I'm pretty sure it's faulty.

I would prefer to remove the faulty speed sensor because I use a gps for speed, trip etc. but can anyone tell me if the firmware needs this value to perform any essential calculations other than populating the speed/trip fields? Will my experience be compromised if I don't bother contacting PSW Power for a replacement?

 

[casainho]

TSDZ2 + LCD3 + v0.20.1 beta, 36v motor with 48v battery, ridden PAS mode and eMTB and seems to work well

But I couldn't get my speed sensor to work, tested at multiple distances from the magnet so I'm pretty sure it's faulty.

I would prefer to remove the faulty speed sensor because I use a gps for speed, trip etc. but can anyone tell me if the firmware needs this value to perform any essential calculations other than populating the speed/trip fields? Will my experience be compromised if I don't bother contacting PSW Power for a replacement?

I wish to develop a feature to disable the speed sensor so user can keep riding if it fails - as it is easy for the magnet to fail if doing MTB and a stick get on the wheel.

I don't know how firmware behaves currently.

 

[LeftCoastNurd]

TSDZ2 + LCD3 + v0.20.1 beta, 36v motor with 48v battery, ridden PAS mode and eMTB and seems to work well

But I couldn't get my speed sensor to work, tested at multiple distances from the magnet so I'm pretty sure it's faulty.

I would prefer to remove the faulty speed sensor because I use a gps for speed, trip etc. but can anyone tell me if the firmware needs this value to perform any essential calculations other than populating the speed/trip fields? Will my experience be compromised if I don't bother contacting PSW Power for a replacement?

when my magnet got knocked askew, the TSDZ2 behaved totally irrationally, with erratic power. put it back in the right place, and it started working smoothly again. I was running the stock firmware

 

[ImpulsePurchase]

I remember someone asking this question before but can't remember if there was a reply.

Does anyone know the specs or a supplier of the springs for the torque sensor?

My motor stopped giving any power(I only have about 20 miles on it so far). Something meant that the bottom sheet of the torque sensor rotated, which pulled the plug from the controller and then must have wrapped around the springs so they are all somewhat out of shape.

Do you get springs with a replacement torque sensor?

Thanks

 

[phm2000]

I remember someone asking this question before but can't remember if there was a reply.

Does anyone know the specs or a supplier of the springs for the torque sensor?

My motor stopped giving any power(I only have about 20 miles on it so far). Something meant that the bottom sheet of the torque sensor rotated, which pulled the plug from the controller and then must have wrapped around the springs so they are all somewhat out of shape.

Do you get springs with a replacement torque sensor?

Thanks

I add the same trouble after 20km with new motor, I had the chance the seller sent me torque sensor with springs. I don't know where you can find only springs. Sorry

 

[esteel]

Hello, I’m using the TSDZ2 with KT-LCD3 Display, and am wondering if it can be upgraded to KT-LCD8 with the same firmware?

 

[bagirafutar]

Hi,

I own an Omnium cargo bike, with a 750w, 48V TSDZ2 mounted on it. I am thinking of selling it and getting a Riese und Müller Packster 80, with a Performance Line CX gen2 motor. I go uphill a lot.

I once had the opportunity to ride the Packster 80, but only for about 5 minutes. The Bosch drive seemed to work much more "flawlessly" if I can put it this way. Although it is only a 250/350W engine, it seemed to be much stronger, delivering it's power much better. When I stopped pedaling, the motor cut off almost instanteniously. The TSDZ2 takes a noticable amount of time for the chain to come to a stop after I stop pedaling. This makes changing gears on my IGH a hassle, because I am always waiting for the motor to come to a stop.

The TSDZ2 seems to have a lot of flex somewhere inside - either the crank axle itself, or the motor somehow, I don't know for sure.

On the TSDZ2 I regularly reach the motor's max. cadence, when I loose all support from the motor. It is very annoying, because with my current gearing, my max. speed is around 34-35 km/h, after this the motor cuts off. The Bosch has much more flexibility in this concern, as I can spin the cranks faster, and still get help from the motor.


So my question comes down to this: has anyone had the chance to properly compare these two mid-drives? Is it just me feeling that the Bosch system is a much better tuned system, and is a much better feeling to ride? (Edit: I am talking about the stock firmware for the TSDZ2. I am aware of casainho's opensource firmware, but I still have 2,5 years of warranty on my drive which I do not want to void by installing it. And it also wouldn't help the flex and the cadence-issue, for example.)

Thanks!

Zoltán