New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[jeff.page.rides]

TSDZ2 Fluid Cooling

I’ve been working with this all summer. With several different leaks, different pumps, different tubing, different fluid routing, different fluids, and other difficulties. I finally have a fluid made to fill-up brushless Motors and it is working the way I wanted to from the start with no leaks. I can ride at 700 - 850 Watts all day long and the motor never gets more than 10-20 degrees warmer than the outside air. With all the same steps, but with only fluid in the left side of the case, and no external addons will keep the motor at 30 to 50 degrees warmer than the outside air at 700-850 watts. So that means you can ride at high watts at 100 degrees outside and note worry about overheating. I use a led temp display attached to the bottom of the 860C. It has 2 probes and both temps show, one I leave out in the air on the front of the bike the other one is in the oil in the motor. This also allows you to use a throttle and still have a temperature sensor. It’s cooler, quieter and it’s smoother, but unfortunately like everything I had to learn it all the hard way.

When the riding season is over in about 60 days I will be doing a step by step how-to, with directions and pictures so those that want to tackle this should be able to do it without all the mistakes I had to go through. I’ve attached a couple of photos, so you can see what I’ve done. I also added a new 42 tooth chainring from https://www.eco-ebike.com/collections/drivetrain-pedals/products/42t-chain-ring-for-tsdz2-narrow-wide-10mm-offset-110-bcd-solid-e-bike That works great and costs less than the other brand.

I’m trying to decide if I want to go through the effort to offer a kit with all the parts and fluid needed for both types, internal only and external cooling. There was a lot of trial and error finding the right fittings, the right type of hose, the right fluid the right pump, and everything else. To get all the right parts I had to go through several different suppliers, no one-stop-shop here. It’s a lot of work, but If I decide to do this they will be offered through,
www.electrifybike.com and possibly www.eco-ebike.com

 

[Elinx]

TSDZ2 Fluid Cooling

I’ve been working with this all summer.........

Gongrats with this true piece of art. You did a great job.

 

[LeftCoastNurd]

I'm curious what the coolant is?

Looks great. The pics of your recumbent were initially confusing but once I sorted out what I was seeing it made better sense

 

[jeff.page.rides]

I'm curious what the coolant is?

Looks great. The pics of your recumbent were initially confusing but once I sorted out what I was seeing it made better sense

I will give all the details when I do the how to, I am trying to find away to offer the fluid in small quantities. It only comes in large amounts enough to do 8 external systems with the smallest available amount, and it is not cheap.

 

[SlowCo]

I am trying to find away to offer the fluid in small quantities. It only comes in large amounts enough to do 8 external systems with the smallest available amount, and it is not cheap.

Why not use thin oil? Available everywhere in small amounts.

 

[Tom te B]

Hi, I am Tom and new in this forum.
I recently bought the tsdz2 48V 500W motor and installed it to a full suspension mountainbike.
I really like the torque sensing and the small form factor.

However I do like to have a higher cadence. The motor can do 4000 rpm which is about 90 rpm at the cranks. But way before that the power starts dropping, it feels like above 70 rpm power drops.

I do not fancy to go for the open firmware option, it looks rather complicated to me. I would rather swap the bare motor for an 36V one, and leave the 48V controller.

What will happen when I exchange the bare motor for a 36 V motor?
Who has done this before and can explain what will happen?
Whill it rev 33% higher because of the higher voltage?
Or is the motor speed controlled by some sort of encoder / hall sensors and is it restricted to 4000 rpm by the controller anyway?

Best Regards,
Tom

 

[leisesturm]

Hi, I am Tom and new in this forum.
I recently bought the tsdz2 48V 500W motor and installed it to a full suspension mountainbike.
I really like the torque sensing and the small form factor.

However I do like to have a higher cadence. The motor can do 4000 rpm which is about 90 rpm at the cranks. But way before that the power starts dropping, it feels like above 70 rpm power drops.

I do not fancy to go for the open firmware option, it looks rather complicated to me. I would rather swap the bare motor for an 36V one, and leave the 48V controller.

What will happen when I exchange the bare motor for a 36 V motor?
Who has done this before and can explain what will happen?
Whill it rev 33% higher because of the higher voltage?
Or is the motor speed controlled by some sort of encoder / hall sensors and is it restricted to 4000 rpm by the controller anyway?

Best Regards,
Tom

Your way will work, but it may not get you enough higher rpm than where you are now to be worth the guaranteed increased wear and tear on the 36V motor. It should be easy to calculate what your top speed is now, figure the % increase ... I'm no mathmetician but I don't think 36 to 48 is a 33% increase. I just ordered the 48/52V motor and the OSF. I am expecting 120rpm at the crank. I can de-rate the motor to 500W and keep the 120rpm cadence. I think this is a much better way of doing it than overvolting the 36V motor. If you think flashing the firmware is 'complicated', why not get a friend to do it? The instructions are easily available and the right kind of friend will understand them easily. If you lived in Portland, OR I'd have a go. I'm not afraid of doing it myself but it doesn't make any sense to do it when ECO Cycles has been so kind as to offer kits with the work already done. Good luck.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

I am trying to find a way to offer the fluid in small quantities. It only comes in large amounts enough to do 8 external systems with the smallest available amount, and it is not cheap.

Why not use thin oil? Available everywhere in small amounts.

You can try any oil out there, I wanted fluid that was made for this purpose, and from what I've read about it the motor should virtually last 10 times what it would last without any fluid in it. One of the fluids I tried along the way was automatic transmission fluid and it's thinner than motor oil, but the pump was a lot slower. When I took it apart to fix a leak it also stained the end cap of the motor that has the wires a dark color. I thought that was odd.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

Hi, I am Tom and new in this forum.
I recently bought the tsdz2 48V 500W motor and installed it to a full suspension mountainbike.
I really like the torque sensing and the small form factor.

However I do like to have a higher cadence. The motor can do 4000 rpm which is about 90 rpm at the cranks. But way before that the power starts dropping, it feels like above 70 rpm power drops.

I do not fancy to go for the open firmware option, it looks rather complicated to me. I would rather swap the bare motor for an 36V one, and leave the 48V controller.

What will happen when I exchange the bare motor for a 36 V motor?
Who has done this before and can explain what will happen?
Whill it rev 33% higher because of the higher voltage?
Or is the motor speed controlled by some sort of encoder / hall sensors and is it restricted to 4000 rpm by the controller anyway?

Best Regards,
Tom

Your way will work, but it may not get you enough higher rpm than where you are now to be worth the guaranteed increased wear and tear on the 36V motor. It should be easy to calculate what your top speed is now, figure the % increase ... I'm no mathematician but I don't think 36 to 48 is a 33% increase. I just ordered the 48/52V motor and the OSF. I am expecting 120rpm at the crank. I can de-rate the motor to 500W and keep the 120rpm cadence. I think this is a much better way of doing it than overvolting the 36V motor. If you think flashing the firmware is 'complicated', why not get a friend to do it? The instructions are easily available and the right kind of friend will understand them easily. If you lived in Portland, OR I'd have a go. I'm not afraid of doing it myself but it doesn't make any sense to do it when ECO Cycles has been so kind as to offer kits with the work already done. Good luck.

The controller is the same on a 48 Volt and 36 Volt system. But the firmware from the factory is not the same. I would not run a 36 Volt motor with a 48 Volt programmed controller. If you use the OSF software and put the settings so that it's a 36 Volt motor and you can safely run 52 Volt batteries on the 36 Volt motor, but not with the factory firmware. The OSF firmware also allows you to run a much higher cadence with both 36V and 48V motors.

 

[famichiki]

Example of the pressure exerted by the helical gear.
Wear of the retaining ring after 8000 km.

After better analysis, the wear on the retaining ring is not due to the helical gear but to the lateral movement of the main shaft which causes the friction of the retaining ring on the roller bearing which is captive. I am sorry for that.
This could be minimized by adding a teflon washer between the roller bearing and the C-clip on the no driving side.

Looking at the disassembled motor in front of me, it seems like outward pressure on the torque sensor assembly would instead be the cause of this.

The roller bearing slides freely over the torque sensor shaft and is a press fit up to the lip inside the motor case which does not contact the retaining ring, the retaining ring passes through the lip.

Inward pressure on the torque sensor by the helical gearing would slide it through the static roller bearing towards the non-drive side, increasing the space between the bearing and retaining ring. If anything, it would cause pressure between the outward side of the roller bearing and torque sensor.

So what could be causing excessive outward pressure on the torque sensor assembly? The 3 little springs that push the separate disc outward are weak, so was that disc fitted incorrectly? Or is there some unusual shimming going on with the 6902RS non-drive side spindle bearing? It may even be nothing extraordinary and just prolonged light contact given your mileage. Also consider that adding a teflon washer there may lead to the torque sensor discs excessively rubbing.

 

[leisesturm]

The controller is the same on a 48 Volt and 36 Volt system. But the firmware from the factory is not the same. I would not run a 36 Volt motor with a 48 Volt programmed controller. If you use the OSF software and put the settings so that it's a 36 Volt motor and you can safely run 52 Volt batteries on the 36 Volt motor, but not with the factory firmware. The OSF firmware also allows you to run a much higher cadence with both 36V and 48V motors.

I am not quite understanding. Are you saying you want to buy a 36V motor: https://www.eco-ebike.com/collections/tsdz2-accessories-parts/products/inside-motor-for-tsdz2. Or are you saying you just want to tell your 48V system controller that you have a 36V motor? Best thing to do is talk to David Hall at the link I just gave you. He knows more about these motors than you or I.

 

[Tom te B]

Yes, I am thinking about getting a 36V motor like in your link.

 

[Tom te B]

@Leisesturm,

I found this tip in your link to the 36V motor.
Tip: If you have a 48v or 52v stock system, you can replace the stock inside motor with a 36v motor for increased power towards the top end of RPM/cadence support, but it will run a little hotter.

Thanks!

 

[vass]

Waiting for the how to (and the price for the "oil" )
When i wanted to use "oil" for cooling my gaming pc i read a little bit about it, in the end mineral oil was the cheapest way to do it but it dmgs plastic in the long run (so maybe a controller failure will happen if used here) , the best was 3M Novec but it was so expensive that it would be better to buy 2 pcs

I am trying to find a way to offer the fluid in small quantities. It only comes in large amounts enough to do 8 external systems with the smallest available amount, and it is not cheap.

Why not use thin oil? Available everywhere in small amounts.

You can try any oil out there, I wanted fluid that was made for this purpose, and from what I've read about it the motor should virtually last 10 times what it would last without any fluid in it. One of the fluids I tried along the way was automatic transmission fluid and it's thinner than motor oil, but the pump was a lot slower. When I took it apart to fix a leak it also stained the end cap of the motor that has the wires a dark color. I thought that was odd.

 

[maximusdm]

Hello,

I did a hardware calibration of the torque sensor. The sensor reads value and has not error, but it does not change on pedal press. Stays almost fix value. If i move the small black part with the magnet and hall sensor, the values change, but still on press nothing.
I opened the motor twice and I found not visual problems.
Why does the sensor value not change on force?
Also is there a way to simulate pedal force without installing it on motor? I read the wiki but is not very clear how to do it with 2 screwdrivers.

Maybe someone knows better how a torque sensor works and has some ideas.

Thanks!

 

[leisesturm]

1. Why does the sensor value not change on force?
2. Also is there a way to simulate pedal force without installing it on motor?
3. I read the wiki but is not very clear how to do it with 2 screwdrivers.
3a. Maybe someone knows better how a torque sensor works and has some ideas.

1. It probably is changing, however, it is calibrated to record force levels FAR ... FAR in excess of anything you can generate with your fingers.
2. No. See answer 1. Above. The whole system has to be assembled and the test weights need to work through the leverage of the ~6"+ crank length to generate meaningful signal levels.
3.I skimmed the wiki and did not take away anything involving Screwdrivers. What I took away was that calibration could involve known weights like large bags of sugar, or flour, or children(!). I can't see how you could simulate a 'known' weight with two Screwdrivers. I would probably be unconscious after two Screwdrivers but your alcohol tolerance might be much higher.
3a. It has been explained to me how the torque sensor works. To have better ideas than the ones in the wiki, I would need to know what exactly is your issue? Is your motor operational or not?

 

[Andrew707]

Hello,

Today, I've wanted to do heat dissipation improvement on my motor following tutorial on wiki, replace the blue gear, regrease everything and silicone seal the housing for extra waterproofness. Everything went quite well until I had to test it out... And the motor is not working properly. After pedalling harder I noticed that power drops and there's this weird sound coming out of the motor like "wrum wrum" (here's a short video with that sound).

I have 2800km on this motor and this is the first time I opened it up. The blue gear seemed fine but I still decided to replace it with a new one. To regrease everything I've used ParkTool PPL-1 PolyLube 1000.

Here are some pictures of my progress: https://imgur.com/a/gKUjd30

So yesterday I soaked blue gear in biodegradable degreaser for a few hours, then used toothbrush trying to clean the inside and then put it under hot water, dried and used isopropyl alcohol to clean inside again and tried it in the motor. Unfortunately, it's still making that sound. I believe grease got inside the bearing and it's not going anywhere now... So I ordered a new brass gear just to try it out. But it may take a couple months to arrive.

Also, I've tried to hammer out roller clutch bearing using a socket but it came out with the outer ring. Still want to disassemble it to see how it looks like inside but I'm running out of ideas what else to do with my limited tools... Here are some pics: https://imgur.com/a/JTCLktT

Today I finally disassembled the roller clutch bearing. It was interesting to see how does it work inside. Also, I found that the rollers were quite greasy. Here are some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/gN1zkfd

I soaked in degreaser my other blue gear overnight. Then used a screwdriver which fits perfectly inside to spin the rollers in the degreaser, hot water and isopropyl alcohol. Dried everything up and the rollers were quite loud when spinning them so that means the inside of the bearing probably got cleaned up as well. Put everything together and my motor is still slipping and making that weird sound. I honestly don't know what else to do. Right now I'm seriously considering just buying a new motor again...

Hello,

Just want to share an update on this.

Few weeks ago I've got that weird sound problem described above. Tried many things and nothing worked. Recently finally received brass gear and put it in without any grease at all (just to test it out for like 100 meters) and the motor made the same sound again and power dropped. So the problem wasn't in the greased gear.

Few days ago I've got a new controller. Before putting it in I once again dissassembled the motor, tried to remove the thermal paste from copper wires (I don't think that was a problem but was still worth a try), then I bent even more the waved spacer and put everything back and tightened the screws as much as I could. And the problem almost went away! Right now it briefly makes that sound when I'm "topping out", e.g. biking very fast when the motor cuts out. So as long as I bike normally then everything is fine.

My guess is that maybe that waved spacer somehow impacted the magnets position and prevented the motor from working properly??

Oh, and at the same time I followed eco cycles tutorial to install the lights which worked out pretty great!

Here are some pics of the work I've done: https://imgur.com/a/koBEnzJ

 

[Andrew707]

...my story continued...

So I was extremely happy that after two months I can finally ride my bike again so I went to test it out on a longer ride. I biked ~50km no problem until suddenly the power dropped and the screen started showing E04 error code on my VLCD5 display.

After testing things out a little bit more today seems like after I turn on the system, the motor works perfectly fine for like half a minute and then throws E04. If I continue biking like that occasionally it starts working again for a short period of time and comes back to E04.

I checked documentation and it says that E04 is related to motor blocking:

ERROR_MOTOR_BLOCKED parameters for blocked motor or wheel control. They have been moved to config.h to be able to easily modify them according to your needs. The default values are for immediate intervention and to preserve the blue gear. Change them in case of unwanted interventions.
MOTOR_BLOCKED_COUNTER_THRESHOLD, intervention time from 1 to 10 (1 = 0.1 seconds) MOTOR_BLOCKED_BATTERY_CURRENT_THRESHOLD_X10, current from 10 to 50 (30 = 3 Amp)
MOTOR_BLOCKED_ERPS_THRESHOLD, number of revolutions below which the motor is considered to be stopped. Higher values anticipate the intervention, from 10 to 20 ERPS.

I've tried flashing the motor with different values and E04 keeps showing up. Also, I didn't properly understand what those values mean and why they would come into effect.

Also, when I first tried out the brass gear, I put it in with almost no grease and biked for a few blocks around. Later I found lots of gold dust inside. I've cleaned everything carefully and then properly greased it before going on that 50km test ride. Do you think that somehow could've any impact on E04 error?

[img=https://i.imgur.com/Ego5xy5.jpg][/img]

Any ideas what could be wrong?

 

[famichiki]

Also, when I first tried out the brass gear, I put it in with almost no grease and biked for a few blocks around. Later I found lots of gold dust inside. I've cleaned everything carefully and then properly greased it before going on that 50km test ride. Do you think that somehow could've any impact on E04 error?

I'm out of ideas sorry, but want to say you did an excellent job with the lights. I don't know if the metal shavings would cause that error, but if they got into the motor or other electrical contacts then it can't be healthy.

A few people have posted about their brass gear being chewed up even when properly greased. I was going to fit one myself but seeing their photos changed my mind. Instead I've modified my motor to make it easier to change the blue gear on the road, all that's needed is the lock-ring tool and a couple of torx keys. But probably now something else will break instead.

Reading about other motors, I find it amusing that when they come with plastic gears people change to metal for reliability but when they come with metal gears people change to plastic to reduce the noise. :lol:

 

[mctubster]

A few people have posted about their brass gear being chewed up even when properly greased. I was going to fit one myself but seeing their photos changed my mind. Instead I've modified my motor to make it easier to change the blue gear on the road, all that's needed is the lock-ring tool and a couple of torx keys. But probably now something else will break instead.

Reading about other motors, I find it amusing that when they come with plastic gears people change to metal for reliability but when they come with metal gears people change to plastic to reduce the noise. :lol:

Carbon belts are where it is at https://www.cyclingabout.com/carbon-belt-drive-everything-you-ever-need-to-know/

Including inside the quiet e-Bike motors

 

[vass]

Can you pedal with the motor off easly ? did you try to run the motor out of the bike.
I had a "similar" problem when i didnt use the metal part (dunno the name) on the case side on my full susp bike.
I think the motor twisted or something without that part, it became harder to pedal (and had some errors)

One last resort thing is to open up the motor and check inside and clean it (and put some thermal grease while you are at it)
(step 2 off https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-improve-motor-heat-dissipation)

...my story continued...

So I was extremely happy that after two months I can finally ride my bike again so I went to test it out on a longer ride. I biked ~50km no problem until suddenly the power dropped and the screen started showing E04 error code on my VLCD5 display.

After testing things out a little bit more today seems like after I turn on the system, the motor works perfectly fine for like half a minute and then throws E04. If I continue biking like that occasionally it starts working again for a short period of time and comes back to E04.

I checked documentation and it says that E04 is related to motor blocking:

ERROR_MOTOR_BLOCKED parameters for blocked motor or wheel control. They have been moved to config.h to be able to easily modify them according to your needs. The default values are for immediate intervention and to preserve the blue gear. Change them in case of unwanted interventions.
MOTOR_BLOCKED_COUNTER_THRESHOLD, intervention time from 1 to 10 (1 = 0.1 seconds) MOTOR_BLOCKED_BATTERY_CURRENT_THRESHOLD_X10, current from 10 to 50 (30 = 3 Amp)
MOTOR_BLOCKED_ERPS_THRESHOLD, number of revolutions below which the motor is considered to be stopped. Higher values anticipate the intervention, from 10 to 20 ERPS.

I've tried flashing the motor with different values and E04 keeps showing up. Also, I didn't properly understand what those values mean and why they would come into effect.

Also, when I first tried out the brass gear, I put it in with almost no grease and biked for a few blocks around. Later I found lots of gold dust inside. I've cleaned everything carefully and then properly greased it before going on that 50km test ride. Do you think that somehow could've any impact on E04 error?

[img=https://i.imgur.com/Ego5xy5.jpg][/img]

Any ideas what could be wrong?

 

[Andrew707]

I've modified my motor to make it easier to change the blue gear on the road, all that's needed is the lock-ring tool and a couple of torx keys. But probably now something else will break instead.

Can you please share some pics how it looks like?

Can you pedal with the motor off easly ? did you try to run the motor out of the bike.
I had a "similar" problem when i didnt use the metal part (dunno the name) on the case side on my full susp bike.
I think the motor twisted or something without that part, it became harder to pedal (and had some errors)

One last resort thing is to open up the motor and check inside and clean it (and put some thermal grease while you are at it)
(step 2 off https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-improve-motor-heat-dissipation)

Yes, I can pedal easily with the motor off. There are no issues. And when it works after system start up I don't hear any strange noises and everything seems normal. I'm a bit reluctant to open it up again since I already nicely put everything together and silicon sealed the case... Also, all my problems started after I decided to do this completely unnecessary but nice to have heat dissipation improvement... So far it cost me countless hours of work, couple hundred dollars, lots of headache and not being able to ride my bike for two months

Any other info what E04 means and what causes it to show up would be greatly appreciated. Maybe somebody who was contributing to OSF saw something useful in the code?

 

[sysrq]

Guys, I'm not sure what the problem is with the motor moving, if its fully located on the crank side of the BB and the non crank side plate is correctly installed ( yes you may well have to shim it with spacers to get the bolts correctly torqued ) and the large nut is correctly torqued,

Its hard with full suspension bikes because you are only relying on friction to hold it. If you do off road then the locking nut can come loose. Having a torque arm makes sense.

The stock motor attachment reacts torque with the torque arm. The "securing plate"
Exploded View.jpg
is not about transmitting torque. It gives a load path for up / down forces on the motor. Without the securing plate a force on the motor housing puts the casting is bending in a way likely to break it like you see in this photo
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=2775#p1395963

Reacting the torque in friction is not what the design relies on. That is solid engineering practice. Friction is hard to estimate, surface contamination is a factor, torques are hard to ensure and even if a torque wrench is used the preload is not accurately know, etc.

But I can see why people with rear suspensions like the idea of using friction. They don't have a place to install the torque reacting plate. So I ran a few calculations to see how feasible it is. Assumptions:
0.2 coefficient of friction
Torque to react 80 N-m
Bottom bracket effective radius 19mm
No factor of safety
Two friction surfaces (both sides of the bottom bracket)

Pre-load you need from the M33.5 locknut: 10,526N (2366 lb).

To get there you need to apply 66N-m torque (49 ft-lb), but that is not an accurate calculation because differences in thread friction throw it off. I would at least double the torque applied and closely watch to see if it slips. Can the wrench that comes with the unit apply 135N-m (100 ft-lb)? Maybe. It is probably best to extend it. If you extend it and apply 100lbs at 1 foot you are close. Maybe maybe not. That is definitely more preload than an engineer would expect from that wrench. Would it hurt the TDSZ2? Would the preload hurt the TDSZ2? I can't tell for sure. There is an inside radius on the casting that would see more stress.

I like the serrations Bafang puts in their unit. Serrations work, how well they work requires close analysis. If I had rear suspension bike I would try this Nord-Lock serrated washer if you have enough threads showing. It is big enough. It is cheap. Maybe it would work if torqued highly, say 100 ft-lb.
91074A145_ZINC-COATED STEEL WEDGE LOCK WASHER.png

Will the nord-lock washer work with low torques (40Nm) bellow the ones recommended in nord-lock data sheet.
According to the video below screw gets stretched due to cams when untightening the nut (not sure if this will not compromise the axle assembly and torque sensor).
https://youtu.be/WbLS3rGtKDM
Could using Loctite or jamnut method be more suitable in this application?

 

[Swannking]

I've modified my motor to make it easier to change the blue gear on the road, all that's needed is the lock-ring tool and a couple of torx keys. But probably now something else will break instead.

Can you please share some pics how it looks like?

Can you pedal with the motor off easly ? did you try to run the motor out of the bike.
I had a "similar" problem when i didnt use the metal part (dunno the name) on the case side on my full susp bike.
I think the motor twisted or something without that part, it became harder to pedal (and had some errors)

One last resort thing is to open up the motor and check inside and clean it (and put some thermal grease while you are at it)
(step 2 off https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-improve-motor-heat-dissipation)

Yes, I can pedal easily with the motor off. There are no issues. And when it works after system start up I don't hear any strange noises and everything seems normal. I'm a bit reluctant to open it up again since I already nicely put everything together and silicon sealed the case... Also, all my problems started after I decided to do this completely unnecessary but nice to have heat dissipation improvement... So far it cost me countless hours of work, couple hundred dollars, lots of headache and not being able to ride my bike for two months

Any other info what E04 means and what causes it to show up would be greatly appreciated. Maybe somebody who was contributing to OSF saw something useful in the code?

A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.

 

[mctubster]

Yes, I can pedal easily with the motor off. There are no issues. And when it works after system start up I don't hear any strange noises and everything seems normal. I'm a bit reluctant to open it up again since I already nicely put everything together and silicon sealed the case... Also, all my problems started after I decided to do this completely unnecessary but nice to have heat dissipation improvement... So far it cost me countless hours of work, couple hundred dollars, lots of headache and not being able to ride my bike for two months

Any other info what E04 means and what causes it to show up would be greatly appreciated. Maybe somebody who was contributing to OSF saw something useful in the code?

A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.

Did you do the temp sensor mod? Do you have it correctly configured in the firmware?