New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[RTIII]

Hi Folks,

Just FYI; I've noticed how sometimes people have a thread about their "build". So, I created one for my TSDZ2 powered butterfly, complete with links and pricing, and vendor names, and why I made the decisions I did. You can find it here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=88943&p=1296923#p1296923

Photos coming soon...

Always nice to get feedback.

RTIII

 

[leelorr]

I do remember the person in the video saying that their version was "special or custom" so it could handle the higher voltage. I wondered if he really knew that for a fact....

 

[itchyfoot42]

My 52V battery was fully charged to 58.73V and the motor refused to work. Been traveling since the install and finally assembled all the pieces - voltage-watt-amp meter (from Amazon: Power Analyzer - GT Power RC Power Analyzer With Backlight LCD Hight Precision (130A)
Sold by: JZCreater) and necessary connectors, plus the extension cable for the speed sensor. Cobbled an extension wire to connect to my good old George Forman grill. Discharged the battery to 54.0 volts. Tied up all the cables and found the connectors on my extension cable for the speed sensor were slightly different. Pins were the same but the motor connector had a flat spot and the extension had a raised ridge to provide centering of the pins. Did an demeril fix, but must have bent a pin or something as speed sensor is not registering.

Hopped on the Wild One and turned on the battery. Got 55.73 volts. Rats! Resting voltage came up. Turned the crank 1/8 turn and felt a judder. It works!!! Off for a 14 mile ride. Flat with slight inclines and rolling hills of various grades from 2-3% to 6+, none longer than a couple hundred yards.

Initial impressions: pretty close to what I hoped.

Level 1: my unassisted casual effort on flat terrain of 12 mph goes to 15-16. Watts .5 - 2.

Level 2: on slight rises my 10mph goes to about 13. Watts varied 2-5.

Level 3: on moderate grades (3-4%) my 8mph goes to 12-13, and I can accelerate! On 6% grades my strong effort 5-6 mph goes to 10-12. Watts varied 3-7.5.

Level 4: Couldn't really tell much difference between Level 3 and 4.

I rode for an hour, traveled 14 miles, and voltage dropped from 55.73 to 53.32. Looks like range won't be a problem. I was on the Bike Path from Kentucky Horse Park to Lexington, which I've ridden many times. Several rolling hills that I could never "slingshot" are now no problem to crest at 13-15 mph.

Noise: didn't hear any. I wear hearing aids but they are pretty good. I feel the motor in the seat of the pants but never heard it even on the steepest grades. Motor was warm to the touch but could keep my hand on it without discomfort. Ambient temp was low 80's.

Lots of hassle to assemble a do-it-yourself package, especially before feedback is available, but looks like the reward will be worth it. Will update after more experience, and time to do some more accurate tests. Still learning what info is available from the Power Analyzer - a neat device, but absolutely no way to easily mount it. Used 5 zip ties.

 

[RTIII]

My 52V battery was fully charged to 58.73V and the motor refused to work. [...snip...] Discharged the battery to 54.0 volts. [...snip...]

Hopped on the Wild One and turned on the battery. Got 55.73 volts. Rats! Resting voltage came up. Turned the crank 1/8 turn and felt a judder. It works!!! Off for a 14 mile ride. Flat with slight inclines and rolling hills of various grades from 2-3% to 6+, none longer than a couple hundred yards.

Initial impressions: pretty close to what I hoped.

Level 1: my unassisted casual effort on flat terrain of 12 mph goes to 15-16. Watts .5 - 2.

Level 2: on slight rises my 10mph goes to about 13. Watts varied 2-5.

Level 3: on moderate grades (3-4%) my 8mph goes to 12-13, and I can accelerate! On 6% grades my strong effort 5-6 mph goes to 10-12. Watts varied 3-7.5.

Level 4: Couldn't really tell much difference between Level 3 and 4.

I rode for an hour, traveled 14 miles, and voltage dropped from 55.73 to 53.32. Looks like range won't be a problem. I was on the Bike Path from Kentucky Horse Park to Lexington, which I've ridden many times. Several rolling hills that I could never "slingshot" are now no problem to crest at 13-15 mph.
[...snip...]

Thanks VERY MUCH, Itchy, for the first hand rider report - with voltage data! ...Can you confirm: this is with a standard, not custom, TSDZ2, 500W, 48V, right? Sounds like you have a throttle - does it work at the same time as the torque sensor system? Do you have the VLCD5 or the Xh-18?

Meanwhile, just so we can get a handle on all that data, here's a small snippet from my spreadsheet on cell pack voltages.

Note that the formatting here takes away white space, so I'm using the underscore, _, to keep the table spacing reasonable:

Table: Volts Per Cell
Horizontal columns: Cells / stack:
Vertical column: cell voltage
_______12____13_____14_____15____16____Cell condition at this voltage
4.2___50.4___54.6___58.8___63.0___67.2___CHARGE voltage
4.1___49.2___53.3___57.4___61.5___65.6___Full, resting voltage after float charge has dissipated
3.6___43.2___46.8___50.4___54.0___57.6___Nominal
2.8___33.6___36.4___39.2___42.0___44.8___Dead, needs recharge, EXCEPT LG MJ1
2.5___30.0___32.5___35.0___37.5___40.0___LG MJ1, dead, needs recharge

We have previously thought that the TSDZ2 motor was limited to 54.6v.

Therefore, in interpreting Itchyfoot's data, we see his discharge to 54v put it back in range of the unit, but the resting voltage back up to 55.73 is definetly ABOVE the previously believed ability of the unit!. Further, 53.32v is still well above the nominal voltage - it still should have a pretty large fraction of its charge available!

Fantastic Data! Just wish I'd had it BEFORE last Wednesday when I ordered my pack for my "48v, 500W" unit!

BTW, one more data point we need to figure out is cut-out voltage; what's the pack voltage when the system decides to cut you off? I may never find out - not brave enough with a new pack to drain it that far! But if anyone ever DOES drain theirs that far, please report and tell us! ...If the cut out voltage is at 3.0, then you can forget the extra storage the MJ1 gives you because you'll never be able to use it since it's designed to go to 2.5 and that appears to be how they get the claim of 3.5Ah / cell.

RTIII

 

[eyebyesickle]

Yeah, I am going to hook mine up to a variable power supply, and see when it cuts out. I am positive that some (maybe most thus far, this is new) 48v500w models will not run on a fully charged 52v... so I will test the 2 different sourced options I have to see if either have a different cutoff...

 

[itchyfoot42]

Motor is standard TSDZ2 48V 500W. XH18 controller. No throttle, only torque sensor.

At levels 3 & 4 it seems to have dirty electronics. My wireless bike computer reading drops to 2 mph, or even zero, when I switch to those levels on a hill, so my distance measurement could be off. Even if I'm not feeling assist it's there as my NuVinci is difficult to shift unless I ease up on pedaling. Never had that before the install.

The next unknown for me is how much, if any, does the rate of voltage drop change when it drops into the low 40's. Will I continue to get a 2.4 volt drop per 14 miles? If it is linear then my range in rolling terrain will be in the 80 mile ballpark. From other posts it appears to be linear to a point and then falls rapidly.

 

[eyebyesickle]

ugh, if I don't figure out another controller, I am going to have to SRAM DDM gear hub, with a 10 speed cassette, and a 52 front! AHAHAH will that get me fast enough? I don't really want all that going on in the drivetrain/cockpit though, doesn't sound like a good plan. I will have some stuff together this week I hope... I am really curious about this voltage limitation and a couple other things... want to really get to the bottom of it (although that may be impossible for me if there are different controllers going around for the 48v500...which I really do not think there is.)

 

[squee22]

See, it depends. Some people offer the xh 18 with the brakes, some with the brakes AND throttle, some with neither...

Some of the 9 pin connectors will be filled with 8 pins, so you can tap into them anywhere, some, only have 6... I have no ordered from everywhere, but I have got a couple, and I have eyes, and ears... so anyway... I was going to try to cover it all... yeah potted controller can be a thing... I guess the question is how bad do you want a throttle! =)

Thanks for the reply.
I do know a bit about electronics, as I'm an electrical engineer and an electrician, so I don't need turn by turn directions. Just to know generally where to look. I tried to figure it out when I got the motor but with the potted controller I can't see what is on the board.

I have thought about testing voltages (current limited of course) on the wire mentioned in an earlier post that stops the motor when grounded, to see if that is simply an analog to digital pin on the controller that determines the throttle position - or if it is indeed a hard motor cutoff like the previous post suggested.

Honestly though - I'm probably too lazy to get around to it for a long time, so unless someone already has figured this out - don't expect much from me

 

[squee22]

Anyway I am thinking of pulling this thing apart to take a look, maybe all it needs is to be packed with lithium grease ? Anyone have any links with pictures on how this thing comes apart ?

There are a few good youtube videos and images posted earlier on these pages. I intend to assemble and upload the video footage I took of me greasing the motor but I haven't gotten around to it yet and likely won't do that until mid july cause I have other obligations atm.

 

[squee22]

ugh, if I don't figure out another controller, I am going to have to SRAM DDM gear hub, with a 10 speed cassette, and a 52 front! AHAHAH will that get me fast enough? I don't really want all that going on in the drivetrain/cockpit though, doesn't sound like a good plan. I will have some stuff together this week I hope... I am really curious about this voltage limitation and a couple other things... want to really get to the bottom of it (although that may be impossible for me if there are different controllers going around for the 48v500...which I really do not think there is.)

I have a 52 front 16 back with a shinamo nexus 7 on 20 inch wheels (folding bike). Casual pedaling gets me to 29kph. Hard pedaling 30-36kph depending on road conditions. That is with a 36 volt battery and 350W motor.

 

[Norton]

I have a 52 front 16 back with a shinamo nexus 7 on 20 inch wheels (folding bike). Casual pedaling gets me to 29kph. Hard pedaling 30-36kph depending on road conditions. That is with a 36 volt battery and 350W motor.

This is good to know squee, I haven't bought anything yet. I did have a$940 amazon purchase coming but got spook by the battery pack and canceled that order. Now I'm reconsidering going with a Noname pack just to get my feet wet.

I have a Bike Friday. It's a 20" wheel folder. Mine is set up with a 3x10 drivetrain, road bike bars/levers, rim brakes. The water bottle mount is on the bottom of the top tube, so this would be a really low cg ebike.
I may even go with a 36V/350W system.
And I'll need a 52 front with the small wheels. How did you get the 52 on this drive? I see some vendors offer different chain rings, some don't.

I am really looking forward to a mid-drive on my lightweight, disc brake, FS Mtn bike. I'll definitely go with a 48V/500W system on that bike.

 

[RTIII]

ugh, if I don't figure out another controller, I am going to have to SRAM DDM gear hub, with a 10 speed cassette, and a 52 front! AHAHAH will that get me fast enough? I don't really want all that going on in the drivetrain/cockpit though, doesn't sound like a good plan. I will have some stuff together this week I hope... I am really curious about this voltage limitation and a couple other things... want to really get to the bottom of it (although that may be impossible for me if there are different controllers going around for the 48v500...which I really do not think there is.)

Hi eyebyesickle, AND EVERYONE INTERESTED IN GEARING with their TSDZ2...

I already "did the math" for you. Here's what you need to know:

Owner reports WAY up-thread on THIS thread indicate that the TSDZ2 is limited in its assistance range to about 90 Pedal-RPM. Beyond that, owners report, it no longer provides assistance. That had me concerned enough that I created a spreadsheet because I already knew that if I did nothing, I'd be losing some gearing since my bike started with a 40 / 52T chainring pair up front and the TSDZ2 comes with a 42T. Later, someone made a comment that got me the idea I should share the spreadsheet. So, I created a new thread to share it AND put the file up on a web server that I have access to.

That thread is here:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=88719

You'll want to update the spreadsheet with YOUR tire diameter, and insert YOUR gears into the various tables and it will compute everything for you. Any questions about it, just ask in that thread and I'll try and help.

Now, what else I can tell you is that the front gear is a 5 X 110 BCD size and the stock gear is offset to the center. To make a change, you take the entire aluminum plate off from the fasteners that are in an even smaller BCD than the gear mounting. The 110 BCD fasteners used are standard hard-to-get-a-grip-on females on the inside and the males are hex. I THINK that if you put a straight 52T (or any larger diameter than 42T gear) in the OUTER position, butted directly against the 42T, it will be the right spacing, but I haven't proven the point yet. (I was SUPPOSED to get my new 52T yesterday but the USPS let me down. :-( )

I decided that for me, the old freewheel was NOT OK, what with a 14T top gear. Further, just changing out the freewheel was not OK either because the last quality units with smaller gear sizes (higher speeds) were made in the 1990s and are long gone from the market. The failure rate of the only remaining manufacturers is atrocious - read the owner reviews!

THEREFORE, I'm converting over to a freehub system. You can read up on my efforts here - I think I outline this aspect reasonably well:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=88943

 

[RTIII]

I've got QUESTIONS that need answers!

1) Anyone have any data on the internals of the VLCD5 unit?

2) What's the USB port on the bottom of the VLCD5 unit for? Can I charge a phone with it, or plug it into a computer to upgrade firmware or something?

3) HOW ON EARTH do you get the wires to disconnect at their male / female connectors?! I tried to un-do one and could not for fear of damaging the wires!

4) Speaking o DISCONNECTING... It would solve a lot of my concerns if I could REMOVE the VLCD5 the way it's pictured on page 4 of this document (it's in Italian - haven't found one in English yet, though I found one in Chinese with SOME English - not quite good enough!):

http://keklos.it/tongsheng-keklos-display-VLCD-5-ita-v1-wm-rid.pdf

Two manuals in Chinese with some English can be found here:

http://www.cnebikes.com/download.html


....

For some answers, I downloaded the ENTIRE Tongsheng web site (http://www.tsbicycle.net), but didn't find much I could do anything with. MAYBE someone speaks (or at least reads!) Chinese who reads this forum? If so, here's the site map for Tongsheng:

http://www.tsbicycle.net/sitemap/FrontColumns_navigation01-btmnavFirstColumnId=45.html

Thanks!

 

[rick_cv]

First post and just wanted to thank everyone on this board. Been wanting to build and electric bike for a few years now. Commute most days by bike but get lazy sometimes and hop in the truck. Maybe this will get me riding 100% of the time. Researched this site often and almost settled on a BBS02 but I do like to pedal and the TSDZ2 seemed to fit my riding style better. Purchased it on Amazon actually and arrived in less than a week. Battery is from Luna and the frame is an old Prodeco found on craigslist and stripped of all its electronics. First ride today and is very fun. Still waiting for a few new parts and to finish wiring. Thanks again!

 

[RTIII]

[...snip...]
4) Speaking o DISCONNECTING... It would solve a lot of my concerns if I could REMOVE the VLCD5 the way it's pictured on page 4 of this document (it's in Italian - haven't found one in English yet, though I found one in Chinese with SOME English - not quite good enough!):

Answering my own questions today!

And the answer is: You press inward on the bottom edge of the electrical connection part and release it from the display proper. ...This is a rather old-school design and rather fragile. This means the VLCD5 display is NOT particularly well mounted and if there's ever too much stress on it, one single piece of plastic could make it release. ... Better to protect it from damage at all costs! I'm not aware of where we can get spares!

Here it is, all disassembled:

 

[RTIII]

First post and just wanted to thank everyone on this board. Been wanting to build and electric bike for a few years now. Commute most days by bike but get lazy sometimes and hop in the truck. Maybe this will get me riding 100% of the time. Researched this site often and almost settled on a BBS02 but I do like to pedal and the TSDZ2 seemed to fit my riding style better. Purchased it on Amazon actually and arrived in less than a week. Battery is from Luna and the frame is an old Prodeco found on craigslist and stripped of all its electronics. First ride today and is very fun. Still waiting for a few new parts and to finish wiring. Thanks again!

Welcome!

Yes, my unit arrived only three days after it actually shipped, 5 days in total - there was a weekend in the way!

I think most ALL TSDZ2 riders are sold on the I-don't-want-a-moped-I-want-to-pedal meme!

I haven't quite gotten to my first ride - still waiting on the battery.

But here it is, ready and waiting!

You can get more on the bike's "build page:"

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=88943&p=1297518#p1297518

 

[mscoot]

I've got QUESTIONS that need answers!

2) What's the USB port on the bottom of the VLCD5 unit for? Can I charge a phone with it, or plug it into a computer to upgrade firmware or something?

Yes! That's for phone charging. But it charges the phone really slow and is practically useless. I replaced my vlc5 with an xh18 display and don't miss loosing the usb-port.

Firmware upgrades? Maybe. Doesn't look like it from that video showing a tsdz2 connected to a computer that someone posted earlier:
https://youtu.be/tj2aYtma64o

 

[RTIII]

I've got QUESTIONS that need answers!

2) What's the USB port on the bottom of the VLCD5 unit for? Can I charge a phone with it, or plug it into a computer to upgrade firmware or something?

Yes! That's for phone charging. But it charges the phone really slow and is practically useless. I replaced my vlc5 with an xh18 display and don't miss loosing the usb-port.

Thank You! ... I have a super-short cable that has heretofore been completely useless, but in this application, I could set up a clamp to hold my "smart phone", so I can use a map application while I ride and have it hooked up so that at least the charge doesn't drop as much while riding! So, if I start with a full charge, it might be perfect to help keep that charge while I'm busy being mobile! ...Not as good as a faster charger, perhaps, but it would save me from having to buy another USB charging system and all the wiring, so, not practically useless to me! :wink:

 

[mscoot]

Thank You! ... I have a super-short cable that has heretofore been completely useless, but in this application, I could set up a clamp to hold my "smart phone", so I can use a map application while I ride and have it hooked up so that at least the charge doesn't drop as much while riding! So, if I start with a full charge, it might be perfect to help keep that charge while I'm busy being mobile! ...Not as good as a faster charger, perhaps, but it would save me from having to buy another USB charging system and all the wiring, so, not practically useless to me! :wink:

Yes, that's what I used it for. Using google maps for navigation I think it managed to charge the phone by some 5% over a 3 hour ride, but then I did turn off the screen every now and then.

You loose the batteri indicator on the vlcd5 display though. When you are charging a phone the battery indicator flashes. Interesting, but annoying. Because I'd rather like to know the state of the bike's battery than the fact that my phone is charging.

 

[RTIII]

Yes, that's what I used it for. Using google maps for navigation I think it managed to charge the phone by some 5% over a 3 hour ride, but then I did turn off the screen every now and then.

You loose the batteri indicator on the vlcd5 display though. When you are charging a phone the battery indicator flashes. Interesting, but annoying. Because I'd rather like to know the state of the bike's battery than the fact that my phone is charging.

Wow! :lol: That has me actually laughing! :lol: ...We don't NEED the VLCD5 to tell us when something is charging - the DEVICE ITSELF tells us! -face-palm- What a dumb design idea!

Meanwhile, in the "don't do that" department, last night I tried to fit the second chainring to the motor assembly and have some advice about what does NOT work.

My first attempt was to see if I could just replace BOTH the chainrings, the inner my bike's original 40T and the new outer 52T (also original size), but no, the 40T was just too wrong to even think about it - in particular because it incorporated an M6 female thread straight into itself - no separate nut - and this made it way too thick.

My second attempt was to put the new 52T between the stock TSDZ2 42T as the new inner and the mounting ring. That is, from the inside: Tongsheng supplied 42T, then my new flat 52T, then the mounting flange - all secured with the mounting hardware that came with the TSDZ2. It seemed to work except it was hard to turn - wasn't free. Inspection showed it was fouling on the rubber cap that protects - keeps grease in and dirt out - the electric motor's gear. It's just not practical to trim this protective cap. So, that failed. However, before removing the gears, I did confirm that the location would otherwise work in terms of gear spacing for shifting from inner to outer and back - the two mated side-by-side works fine.

For my next attempt, today, I'll try putting one on either side of the mounting flange, but my suspicion is that it'll be too wide for reliable shifting and I'll have to put them both on the outside.

...Note that WAY up-thread, people have reported getting two chainrings to work, but nobody gave details how - and I DID ask before proceeding! Details, we need details!

 

[eyebyesickle]

Ok, so digging in this week, it is clear there ARE some newer 48v units out. I have also been able to get more to the bottom of the controller situation, and am waiting on a full wiring scheme/programming instructions... I mean the XH18 has a headlight button... I suspect these can handle the full 52v nominal packs charged to 58.8. Either way... let me ask you guys what the word is going around:

1) What constitutes a 48v500w model
2) 48v350w?
3) What AMP rating is on your motor's sticker.
4) RPM rating?
5) Anyone heave a headlight plug?
6) does ANYONE have THROTTLE AND BRAKES hooked up to an xh18 that they didn't do themselves?

The newest models I got are 18A... and claim to have higher nM etc... the model I was getting, previously was stamped 15A... which was still actually 48v x 15a = 720 so hey... I figured right under legal limit.

Yes I know the 18A on 36v all day... and they say be careful, from what I have heard...


there is controller mods that have to be done to run throttle/brakes with xh18, NOT ONLY wiring... well - DEPENDING WHERE YOU GET IT FROM (it may already be setup)...

 

[RTIII]

Ok, so digging in this week, it is clear there ARE some newer 48v units out. I have also been able to get more to the bottom of the controller situation, and am waiting on a full wiring scheme/programming instructions... I mean the XH18 has a headlight button... I suspect these can handle the full 52v nominal packs charged to 58.8. Either way... let me ask you guys what the word is going around:

1) What constitutes a 48v500w model
2) 48v350w?
3) What AMP rating is on your motor's sticker.
4) RPM rating?
5) Anyone heave a headlight plug?
6) does ANYONE have THROTTLE AND BRAKES hooked up to an xh18 that they didn't do themselves?

The newest models I got are 18A... and claim to have higher nM etc... the model I was getting, previously was stamped 15A... which was still actually 48v x 15a = 720 so hey... I figured right under legal limit.

Yes I know the 18A on 36v all day... and they say be careful, from what I have heard...


there is controller mods that have to be done to run throttle/brakes with xh18, NOT ONLY wiring... well - DEPENDING WHERE YOU GET IT FROM (it may already be setup)...

Wish I knew where you were getting information from! I tried writing Tongsheng and got no reply. But then, I wrote them in English...

I've had my unit for ... not yet a week, and the vendor had said that they were out since before June 3 when I first tried to buy and then they got them in and immediately shipped, Friday, June 9 - 5 days in transit. ...I therefore it's logical that they just got their shipment in from Tongsheng and sent to me the next day, so I've got one of the youngest units out there. My unit says on the bottom sticker 48V 15A - should be 720 watts, in theory, but there was absolutely nothing in the form of a manual, or documentation of any kind whatsoever - only the sticker on the bottom. In case it helps, here's the sticker reads, in full:

Middle Motor TSDZ2
DC48v 4000 rpm 15A
Suzhou Tongsheng Bicycle Co Ltd M12C4076C00012

Mine is a VLCD5 type, as you probably remember. It has three connectors in the back (look like modern CPU fan sockets) and one on the bottom (USB). I have a throttle on order (but not the cut-out switches); will I be able to use it as-is?

Also, how does one UN-DO the round wire / cable fasteners? I tried to get one apart and was NOT successful for fear of damaging the wires! I was considering putting some liquid dish soap on the male part before connecting the remaining two!

 

[eyebyesickle]

You have to understand... a lot of these ALI retailers etc either have a friend that works in the factory, or perhaps are a 'shell' company themselves, actually setup by management at TS, as a 'side' project.

How I got one of my 'INS' with companies, being smaller scale, was DIRECTLY PAYING sales agents (ones with good communications)... as 'PROFIT SHARE'. Careful not to mention, bonus, or gift, much better to give as profit share. I have boots on the ground in key spots too, so sometimes they buy local, or source info.

We will see the wiring diagram and programming protocols I get... they should be legit, but who knows, I might get a picture with 2 plug ends and an arrow that says 'CONECT HERE" hahaahhahahaha (yes I know it is not spelled right). that is how it goes down. After weeks of talking etc... sometimes I, myself open a package, only to be HORRIBLY DISAPOINTED, like a little kid who didn't get **** for his birthday! hahaha, but seriously, rarely do I get excited, and it really really REALLY sucks to have the wrong thing show up after weeks of careful negotiation.

To get the wiring schematic, I had to tell them this:

WE ORDER 2 UNITS. SUPPOSED TO BE SAME. DIFFERNT MODELS. DIFFERENT OPTIONS. WE DONT WANT A PROBLEM, WE DONT WANT TO RETURN, WE WANT TO BUY MORE, BUT WIRING DIFFERENT. CONTROLLER PROGRAM DIFFERNT. WE NEED ALL WORK TOGETHER. DETAIL LOST IN TRANSLATION. WE HAVE EXPERCT ELECTRICAL ENGINEER. NEED DIAGRAM AND PROGRAMMING PROTOCOL . WILL FIX OURSELVES. NO CHARGE TO YOU, NO DISPUTE. BUT WE NEED DIAGRAM TO FIX WIRING PROBLEM, OR WE MUST RETURN

only even simpler, with EVEN MORE CAPS. Yes, I know its all caps. EVEN MORE CAPS I SAID!!! and clearly labeled photos. Don't forget that. It isn't easy... and I probably still won't come up with jack... who knows....

however, their verbatim/copy/paste response to me was:

"we will ask the engineer for the wiring diagram and the details, will let you know when we have it", and through this company, I have procured similar documents... so we may be in luck.

What I do know, is that I have not had to work very hard for my little plan yet...

48x18=864, and that is without a 52 fully charged! replace the chain cover with a 52 tooth... gives me a 42/52.... these 48v/18a units claim 90nM, and 100RPM... which is +10nM/+10rpm from what I understand... can't wait to get this on the road... I have been sick as a dog today, and over the weekend the water (well) was out... so I will get to it ASAP... I CANNOT WAIT TO RIDE TO THE LOCAL BEACH. It will be my first time! EVER, doing anything like that. In my ripe old age, I figure, it is about time to let my guard down, and enjoy myself! (GOT AN EXTRA THICK FOLDING LOCK FOR MY BIKE!!!! haah)


So, I will:

- add the lighting system to be controlled with the headlight
- clean up quick release throttle/brakes to wire harness, and get to the bottom of the programming protocol (for use with xh18)
- replace the inside gear, add the cover... (due to arrive anytime from FUTURE bike... he knows a little about the 18a controller, which is BRAND NEW, but communication in English is best by way of spreadsheet/data... and you fill it in and send, and then it can be filled out and sent back, to ensure accurate specs.)
- at this point, the system is putting out MAX and even OVER legal street wattage, so I have no reason to hot rod...
- I probably will see about slightly modifying replacement gear composistion/edge shape, to see if we can reduce noise further
- 'treat' motor when replacing internal gear of course...grease er up good with something nice... I have no background in this.... don't make me search forever people.... what should I put in this thing??? I'm gonna ask my buddy he deals with that stuff.. although I saw someone here doing it a few pages back I thought. I'll go look...

Ok, probably wont get to 45mph on a flat, without me burning my thighs or hooking up a gear hub with an 11 tooth freewheel... still what would that be... 35??? 40??? I could do the math, but instead I am talking **** again ... either way... I think after I finish the above, I will be happy...

can't wait until my futurebikes order gets here!!!! AHHHHH. He was supposed to send tracking but didn't, again, but I don't even care it's gotta be here soon, and he is responsive other than that one. Pretty sure it's shipped =P. Paid through paypal so I don't think anybody ever worries about that, as long as it isn't coming up on 6 months haahaha.

 

[itchyfoot42]

RTIII, my label is identical to yours except the SN has a 73 instead of your 76, and my last two digits are 06. Mine was shipped on Apr 5.

 

[robbinwang]

For my next attempt, today, I'll try putting one on either side of the mounting flange, but my suspicion is that it'll be too wide for reliable shifting and I'll have to put them both on the outside.

...Note that WAY up-thread, people have reported getting two chainrings to work, but nobody gave details how - and I DID ask before proceeding! Details, we need details!

I also meet this problem that the chain wheel of TSDZ is too wide for my front Derailleur.
The official chainline dimension of TSDZ is 51mm but my roadbike front derailleur is about 43-45mm.
Also the chainline is not very good because of the wide dimension.
I really want to know how to make 2 chainrings work well for this system.