New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[casainho]

Hello to all TSDZ2 fans.
1. I changed the display to Bafang 860c, I uploaded the software to the display (1.1.0) and engine (1.1.1), everything works fine except for one thing. I have a temperature sensor installed in the engine and when it activates in the options in the 860c, it shows the correct temperature, but interestingly, the engine does not support. The temperature is not exceeded in terms of the temperature range. What could be the reason? Everything worked on the old KT LCD3, so I conclude that something needs to be changed in the 860c settings.

Ad 1. solution: poor connection between sensor and controller

2. I performed the pressure sensor measurements according to the available guide on the OS project website for TSDZ2. In the 860c settings, I set the calibration to "on" and set the ADC values ​​and weight according to the thin lines plotted on the graphs below. But why after calibration, when I put, for example, 10 kg on the pedal, I still read the value from before the calibration, and not the new one that I set? Is this the correct symptom or am I doing something wrong?
ADC.jpg

Thanks for any suggestions.

Try to reset the display configurations, please report if it qorks or not.

The ADC value of torque sensor is the raw value. What is changed with the calibration is the calculates approximated value of weight on the pedals.

 

[charakaSamawry]

Having some problems with a mad chirping sometimes squealing squeaky sound… took it apart and regreased and refit and was fixed for 5 miles but then returned but worse.. have tightened the cranks, may have over tightened when refitting and pulling the crank arm on I went and sheared the 8mm crank bolt so maybe a bit to tight but hasn’t realised the crank has bottomed out and was already quite forceful to get the crank pulled on.
Doesn’t seem like it’s coming from the crank but from the chain ring/main gear. Bearings all seemed ok when I took it apart and seals were lightly greased too

 

[Elinx]

Having some problems with a mad chirping sometimes squealing squeaky sound…....

Have you tighten (again) the BB ring?
Because if this ring comes off slightly a small bit, you get also that creaking sound.

 

[ahagge]

THANK YOU Elinx! I'd already self-diagnosed the issue a few weeks ago when it happened to me, but it's comforting to know that it's a common issue and that symptoms match what I heard (creaking sound when pressing hard on the right crank). I was afraid there was something wrong internally, as it started when I did a hard climb.

Hopefully your post will help others with similar experience.

 

[Akita]

I have a squeaky sound when I start sometimes.
Hear at every pedal stroke.
Then disappears at a slightly higher load and higher speed.
Where does that sound come from?

 

[Elinx]

...
Where does that sound come from?

Same question, same answer

 

[Akita]

...
Where does that sound come from?

Same question, same answer

BB ring is tightened but the sound remains so it must be due to something else. What?

 

[Elinx]

....

On the back of the tsdz2, That mount tightened could be help too.
Because of the power of the motor at lower cadence, every bit of possible motor movement, because of these mounts will be heared.
So retighten all mounts very good and check this on regular base.

 

[berrymanp]

... it works for 5 sec and then gives me e08 which I believe is over voltage.

The newest version ....

No, it is the speed sensor.
See the display manual of v0.20.1C

E08 - ERROR_SPEED_SENSOR
Faulty speed sensor or magnet too far away.

There should be no problem to run the motor on a higher Voltage, if you set the right cell number and cutoff Voltage in the first tab (basic settings) of the configurator.

The new versions are far more improved and the settings of mbrusa's versions are not (always) the same as with marcoq's version.
With mbrusa's version it is also possible to configure some settings afterwards with the display button's.
It is advised to read the manuals that come with his OSF versions.

Hello, recently got TSDZ2, and after I installed it, took it for a test ride. it gave me error message 8, torque fault. However the speed sensor was connected, and reading my speed while riding. Any clues?

 

[Elinx]

..... recently got TSDZ2, .... it gave me error message 8, torque fault....Any clues?

You quoted my (complete?) message, but as you can see I refer to a version of OSF.
It depends which version is flashed?
For stock FW E08 is low voltage
OSF v0.20.1B E08 is over voltage
OSF v0.20.1C E08 is speed sensor

So non of them give torque fault

 

[SlowBiker]

Hello guys,
a question about the least intrusive way to install hydraulic brake sensor on TSDZ2:

I have a 36v 250w TSDZ2 with VLCD5 with the 6 Pin controller.
On the rear side of VLCD5 I have the 3 rectangular ports with 3 pins each, for the ebrakes and throttle, but from what I understand in dozens of hours of web searching, these 3 ports should be functioning only on VLCD5 with 8 pins, and not on mine.
So now is the problem: what is the easiest method to install 2 simple magnet brake sensor for hydraulic brakes?
I have seen the wiki but I would like to avoid cutting the main controller cable, solder, etc... so maybe there is some other "tricks in the sleeve" with extension or Y cables, or other "black magic" that I don't know yet?

I come from the BBS02 world, and I'm really a newbie on the TSDZ2 universe!

 

[sysrq]

Looks like finally developed some thin crack in the plastic cover above the pinion gear due to friction caused by chainring. Probably one of the solutions is to move the chainring outwards by a millimeter and glue some piece of plastic above the crack.
Another option would be plastic welding.
J-B Weld PlasticBonder is said to be slightly more flexible.
Or maybe just use some oil resistant silicone adhesive from the other side, so that in case it falls of it won't damage anything compared to epoxy.

 

[soblik]

Hello to all TSDZ2 fans.
1. I changed the display to Bafang 860c, I uploaded the software to the display (1.1.0) and engine (1.1.1), everything works fine except for one thing. I have a temperature sensor installed in the engine and when it activates in the options in the 860c, it shows the correct temperature, but interestingly, the engine does not support. The temperature is not exceeded in terms of the temperature range. What could be the reason? Everything worked on the old KT LCD3, so I conclude that something needs to be changed in the 860c settings.

Ad 1. solution: poor connection between sensor and controller

2. I performed the pressure sensor measurements according to the available guide on the OS project website for TSDZ2. In the 860c settings, I set the calibration to "on" and set the ADC values ​​and weight according to the thin lines plotted on the graphs below. But why after calibration, when I put, for example, 10 kg on the pedal, I still read the value from before the calibration, and not the new one that I set? Is this the correct symptom or am I doing something wrong?
ADC.jpg

Thanks for any suggestions.

Try to reset the display configurations, please report if it qorks or not.

The ADC value of torque sensor is the raw value. What is changed with the calibration is the calculates approximated value of weight on the pedals.

Everything works as it should.

Thanks for explaining what this calibration is about.

The final problem that appeared was the incorrectly counted kilometers of the route. I have already seen this problem in this topic and it is associated with the change of the program code. Maybe someone could throw this file with changed rulers so that the display correctly calculates the distance.

 

[shaddi]

Just wanted to leave some infos about using a Shimano Alfine 11 hub gear with the Motor. To make it short: Don't do it! The stress on the mechnanics are just too high. I damaged mine almost completly. Only some gears are usable, the rest is "jumping through with loud noises"

 

[Christiaan]

Hi There,

A beginner question.

Just flashed the latest firmware in the motor and sw display.
I was trying it out and I get the following messages after powering on.

It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?

Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Elinx]

.....

It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?...

imho does that mean an open connection for the (magnetic) brakes switch, so your motor won't rotate because the controller thinks you brakes are pulled.

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-brake-sensors

 

[neil54]

Hi all,

any idea what could cause the motor to whine really loudly after I changed the blue gear?

Any tips on what to try to stop the whining would be great.

Many thanks

 

[Christiaan]

.....

It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?...

imho does that mean an open connection for the (magnetic) brakes switch, so your motor won't rotate because the controller thinks you brakes are pulled.

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-install-brake-sensors

Thanks for the answer. Just measured the cable again however there is no continuity in the brake circuit (no short). So the circuit is not closed.
So the system should not see the brakes I think

.

 

[Christiaan]

Maybe good to mention. I bought such a cable.


And used this schemetic to wire it to a 6 pin male connector (so used exactly this picture):

https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-SW102-to-TSDZ2

 

[raylo32]

I just went through this whilst trying to install a new controller pre flashed with OSF, 850C display, and new matching Bafang cable set. I found that the these Bafang displays show "error: brakes" when they are failing to communicate with the controller. I concluded that I got a bad controller. I re-installed my OEM controller and the bike and motor are working correctly again... OSF on the VLCD5 not on the new Bafang color display that I got with the defective controller.

Hi There,

A beginner question.

Just flashed the latest firmware in the motor and sw display.
I was trying it out and I get the following messages after powering on.

It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?

Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

D451387D-4FA9-4391-B08E-8092D39B82E5.jpeg

E0087311-DF96-4F8C-989B-5F9863316618.jpeg

771C474F-D9EC-44A1-85E6-8F3B267FCEA7.jpeg

 

[Christiaan]

I just went through this whilst trying to install a new controller pre flashed with OSF, 850C display, and new matching Bafang cable set. I found that the these Bafang displays show "error: brakes" when they are failing to communicate with the controller. I concluded that I got a bad controller. I re-installed my OEM controller and the bike and motor are working correctly again... OSF on the VLCD5 not on the new Bafang color display that I got with the defective controller.

Hi There,

A beginner question.

Just flashed the latest firmware in the motor and sw display.
I was trying it out and I get the following messages after powering on.

It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?

Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

D451387D-4FA9-4391-B08E-8092D39B82E5.jpeg

E0087311-DF96-4F8C-989B-5F9863316618.jpeg

771C474F-D9EC-44A1-85E6-8F3B267FCEA7.jpeg

So you mean the controller in the motor could be bad. Yes I got it from China. Are these known to be DOA? Would be a pity. I thought I made a wiring mistake however the cable seems to checkout with my multimeter.
I can connect with the controller and read and flash it via USB.

 

[Elinx]

...... no continuity in the brake circuit (no short). So the circuit is not closed.
So the system should not see the brakes I think
....

If there are no brakes, the connection, with 2 wire magnetic brake switches, must be closed to GND (black 8 and white 4 in the connection schematic) .
I your case (open connection) the brakelevers are "pulled on", so the motor can't run.
In case of a 3 wired connector. Look carefully that you haven't a connection to Vcc.

 

[Christiaan]

...... no continuity in the brake circuit (no short). So the circuit is not closed.
So the system should not see the brakes I think
....

If there are no brakes, the connection, with 2 wire magnetic brake switches, must be closed to GND (black 8 and white 4 in the connection schematic) .
I your case (open connection) the brakelevers are "pulled on", so the motor can't run.
In case of a 3 wired connector. Look carefully that you haven't a connection to Vcc.

Thanks for the feedback.
My tsdz2 came with a 6 pin plug. So I don’t have the vcc and it is also not wired up by me.
Pulling the brakes closes the circuit. The brakes in the non pulled situation are open.
But based on your feedback I also tried with a closed circuit but that does not change or influence the failure mode.

 

[skestans]

Just wanted to leave some infos about using a Shimano Alfine 11 hub gear with the Motor. To make it short: Don't do it! The stress on the mechnanics are just too high. I damaged mine almost completly. Only some gears are usable, the rest is "jumping through with loud noises"

Bummer. I was considering an Alfine (but the one with less gears, I think 7?) but I guess I won’t. AFAIK shimano also makes a beefier nexus 5 for their ebikes, maybe that one would work and handle the torque.

 

[skestans]

Looks like finally devoped some thin crack in the plastic cover above the pinion gear due to friction caused by chainring. Probably one of the solutions is to move the chainring outwards by a millimeter and glue some piece of plastic above the crack.
Another option would be plastic welding.
J-B Weld PlasticBonder is said to be slightly more flexible.
Or maybe just use some oil resistant silicone adhesive from the other side, so that in case it falls of it won't damage anything compared to epoxy.

I would get a replacement cover. They don’t cost much (I think I paid 15$ delivered for mine on aliexpress) and then you don’t have to worry about whether the plastic is properly fixed or whether water/grime will seep into the main gear chamber.