New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Are you using both the display buttons and the remote? The assist level is changed via UART protocol between the LCD and controller. Are you getting other funtionality like walk assist or lights activated? Are you getting speed and distance reading?
 
Hey guys,

I converted my bike with TSDZ2 last year and love it. I have installed emmebrusa firmware for VLCD6 and has been fine, I have done cca 2500km.

But yesterday I discovered a problem:
I have front and rear lights installed. I realized, that rear light was lit on, even when lights are toggled OFF. If I turn ligths ON, front also turn on, and rear becomes brighter. It looks like there is some leakage current flowing to lights connector and rear has lower threshold than the front. When I was buying the lights I was conscious babout max 3W together, and I believe that I am below this limit.

Anybody had similar issue?
 
Hello,
Anyone got any ideas on how to extract data from the 860c display?
Project name: CyberTrike (I.C.E. Trike fitted with TSDZ2 running OSF).
Thanks in advance.
Dan
 
What specifically do you mean by "extract data"? What do you need to do?
We want to get the various metrics out in real time at least. Voltage, current, speed, etc.

We notice the historical data graphed and wonder if it's best to query the display, if possible, every few minutes.

The destination is a linux box, raspberryPi or similar, for posting data to the net.
 
We want to get the various metrics out in real time at least. Voltage, current, speed, etc.

We notice the historical data graphed and wonder if it's best to query the display, if possible, every few minutes.

The destination is a linux box, raspberryPi or similar, for posting data to the net.
Tap the serial comms - I use a couple of ftdi serial ports, don't connect the TX lines, connect one RX to the RX of cable between the tsdz2 and the display, and the other RX to the TX line of the cable between the tsdz2 and the display. Then you can use two instances of putty to look at what's being sent to/from. stock fw is 9600 baud, os fw is 19200.

the protocol is straightforward - but it's probably only documented in the source code of the respective open source firmware.

If you're using the stock firmware - this might be useful tsdz2/serial-communication.md at master · hurzhurz/tsdz2
 
Are you using both the display buttons and the remote? The assist level is changed via UART protocol between the LCD and controller. Are you getting other funtionality like walk assist or lights activated? Are you getting speed and distance reading?
Yeah there’s no response from display buttons or remote buttons. Would you mind explaining UART protocol? The lights button, info button, speed and distance readings are all working fine yes
 
I have the 48V and it has worked fine for the last 5 years, but this last weekend when I started out and pressed on my bike petal instead of the motor kicking in, it made a strange buzzing/grinding sound the whole time I was applying pressure to the pedal and provide no power assist. I stopped pedaling and started pedaling again several times and finally the motor assist kicked in and it sounded normal. This would happen again several more times on my ride. Not sure what the issue is, any ideas?
 
I have the 48V and it has worked fine for the last 5 years, but this last weekend when I started out and pressed on my bike petal instead of the motor kicking in, it made a strange buzzing/grinding sound the whole time I was applying pressure to the pedal and provide no power assist. I stopped pedaling and started pedaling again several times and finally the motor assist kicked in and it sounded normal. This would happen again several more times on my ride. Not sure what the issue is, any ideas?
maybe some connection is bad ? maybe bearing needs to be replaced ? open and check
 
Remade connections and no change. Opened it up and all the gears and bearings looked and worked as expected. I'm wondering if it's the torque sensor input. Is there a way to test this?
 
Been reading and watching trouble shooting videos. I now believe it's the one-way clutch in the blue gear. Ordered a metal gear and should get it Friday.
 
Been reading and watching trouble shooting videos. I now believe it's the one-way clutch in the blue gear. Ordered a metal gear and should get it Friday.
it's better and cheaper to replace only bearing-one-way clutch in the blue gear
 
Hi, what could be the reason for engine spinning empty and transfering no power to the chain while pedaling? Issue only occurs when pedaling. Using throttle works fine. Only pedaling is affected and even that sporadically. When pedaling engine will send power for a few seconds then cut out of all power while the engine itself is still whirling and spinning (at a high rpm) but theres no effect. Also right when starting to pedal engine whirls to a really high rpm and emitting high pitched whirl for 2 to 3 seconds then drops down to normal rpm.

Neighbour brough the engine to me for maintenance to lubricate. It was loud and had intermittent power cutout issues. Opened up the main gear cover and lubed up with shimano grease for ball bearings. Now while the engine is nice and quiet power cutout issue while pedaling escalated to the point of failure.

This is gen1 tsdz2 engine with straight teeth on the main gear.

I spent about two hours researching posts, read the github faq too and have not yet found a solution.
What could be at fault here? I never serviced tsdz2 before, only bafang.
 
Hi, what could be the reason for engine spinning empty and transfering no power to the chain while pedaling? Issue only occurs when pedaling. Using throttle works fine. Only pedaling is affected and even that sporadically. When pedaling engine will send power for a few seconds then cut out of all power while the engine itself is still whirling and spinning (at a high rpm) but theres no effect. Also right when starting to pedal engine whirls to a really high rpm and emitting high pitched whirl for 2 to 3 seconds then drops down to normal rpm.

Neighbour brough the engine to me for maintenance to lubricate. It was loud and had intermittent power cutout issues. Opened up the main gear cover and lubed up with shimano grease for ball bearings. Now while the engine is nice and quiet power cutout issue while pedaling escalated to the point of failure.

This is gen1 tsdz2 engine with straight teeth on the main gear.

I spent about two hours researching posts, read the github faq too and have not yet found a solution.
What could be at fault here? I never serviced tsdz2 before, only bafang.
could you post video?
 
Hi, what could be the reason for engine spinning empty and transfering no power to the chain while pedaling? Issue only occurs when pedaling. Using throttle works fine. Only pedaling is affected and even that sporadically. When pedaling engine will send power for a few seconds then cut out of all power while the engine itself is still whirling and spinning (at a high rpm) but theres no effect. Also right when starting to pedal engine whirls to a really high rpm and emitting high pitched whirl for 2 to 3 seconds then drops down to normal rpm.

Neighbour brough the engine to me for maintenance to lubricate. It was loud and had intermittent power cutout issues. Opened up the main gear cover and lubed up with shimano grease for ball bearings. Now while the engine is nice and quiet power cutout issue while pedaling escalated to the point of failure.

This is gen1 tsdz2 engine with straight teeth on the main gear.

I spent about two hours researching posts, read the github faq too and have not yet found a solution.
What could be at fault here? I never serviced tsdz2 before, only bafang.
This is very likely the clutch in the blue gear. This area should not get lubed. If this bearing/clutch gets lube, the clutch can not get a grip and spins freely.
 
Hopefully it's not cooked, but I think even at 10A you can still overheat it. The problem is the motor is effectively insulated inside the case and 10A = c.500W and even that's probably too much for a long time. It obv depends on things like the ambient temp but I'd never ride a tsdz2 without temp mods+sensor again having fried one motor.

As for reliability - yes it's a mixed bag with the tsdz2. I've had relatively few issues on both my bikes but I'm a city/trail rider. I don't do hardcore mtb/downhill - and I ride it like a bike in moderate assist (3 out of 7 for the fw I'm using).

If you don't have temp mods or a temp sensor, if you use a throttle, or expect to start in high gears or don't have brake sensors then I think you're likely to see failures much more often than if you do the opposite to all those things.

Even with temp mods and sensor I can still get the motor too hot on just city riding up relatively gentle, but long, hills and it throttles back - at UK ambient temps.

You could always try fitting a VESC + torque sensor to your bbs01 like casainho has done to his m500 OpenSourceEBike.github.io

I tried taking the long screws out of the motor housing unit to see the copper windings. I got all but one screw out that was stuck and the head started to wear off. I dont want to do that and then when its returned they complain about that.

I did hook up my old tsdz2 motor to their display and turn on and their display is fine. So ill send them pics and box it up and ship it back.

Thanks for the M500 info. Ill look at that and there are two other motors the photon and toseven.
 
Hi Everyone. So after my problems with the TSDZ2B where the motor failed i was able to send it back. I went on holiday for two weeks and the heat sink plate finally arrived that i didnt have when i first fitted the motor and it got fried. So after reading about other motors the Toseven didnt seem that great as its so new and i read the software is not really ready. The Photon has months to wait to get it and pretty expensive. I noticed the cost of the TSDZ2B went down a little from same supplier i got on Ebay for 270 UKP.

So i just got another TSDZ2B as its so cheap and fitted the heat sink mod. I been on a few long rides and the same ones that fried the last motor and so far its doing great. I also used coppaslip on the screws for the motor and so in a years time hopefully able to unscrew the motor housing and not have the screws get stuck.

My youtube turned up some videos from Tongsheng to do repair on the TSDZ2B. I saw that they say you need special extractor tool to replace the clutch. That does not look like its an easy tool to get hold of. I wonder if its really needed to replace the clutch. Also the availability of the TSDZ2B you have to go through a dealer to get a spare part clutch from reading the comments in the repair video. Hopefully i never have to replace the clutch again. When mine failed i bought a spare online and found that it didnt fit as you have to press another part into it which was impossible for me to do. As I had a working clutch from a previous broken tsdz2 and so was able to use that part instead. Otherwise i dont think i would have been able to fix it.

EDIT: I found the clutch repair tool for sale on PSPOWER. 50 USD. Great its available but also not cheap.


I also saw this upgraded 500/750 watt TSDZ2B that looks like a third generation motor as its not like the TSDZ2B that i have that is 500 watts. Different case shape but it does look similar. I wonder if its more robust? Why not call it a TSDZ2C. However i quite like that its the same name different power as could just use that in the UK. The case looks like it has heat sink fins built into it. Maybe they did some internal changes too but they don't mention that.


quote from the video:
"The new TSDZ2B motor of 500w/750w is coming soon, which is the upgraded version of TSDZ2B 250w with new appearence. The kit helps to covert your bike to an e-bike with max 500w/750w motor(Max torque:100Nm) and integrated torque sensor, which will bring you in-one riding experience from you and your e-bike since the motor outputs according to your pedaling force."

Anyone know if this is available to purchase or have the details about it ? I hope its more than just a case change and otherwise its all the same as before since it can already do 500/750 watt in theory (really needs a heat sink mod for it to handle it).

I notice in the video the motor is far forward and does not seem to have the metal frame holder any more. Could be they forgot to install it.

I saw on PSPOWER site they sell the case pretty cheap so if the new TSDZ2B has some heat sink built into the case can swap out the case as a spare part though it looks like a real hassle and also i question how much better it would be with some fins. Though i would need to know more about it.

 
Last edited:
What is now the best set to build a bike with TSDZ2B to have newest, greatest and best? :)

this motor and 860C display from Ali + temp sensor and thermal pads for motor?
Or take the 850C display together with the motor? I read that there are problems with flashing firmware to it?
48V battery 17,5ah - 24,5Ah?

Does the motor above comes also with throttle wires to install temp sensor or only option with throttle has it?

Is there anything in additional I need to order?
 
Last edited:
I installed the brass gear and that fixed the issue. It is noisier as I read it would be. Why is the blue gear better?
i wrote "bearing" but nylon is better mostly because it prevents from destroying much more than itself ...
 
I’ve just broken my KTLCD3 display. Is there any way to tell the difference between the old flashable version
, and the new non-flashable version. Is there any place still selling the old version ?
 
What's wrong? When you push the bike backwards, the motor starts to rotate and pulls the bike forward.
 
Well.. definitely did not expect this :shock:

[youtube]OyH2VON-hz4[/youtube]

I haven't even used it for more than 10km. The last 2km were rolling back after a
failed trip. Seems like a gear is stripped since the motor still engages but provides
no momentum. So this one is going back to seller and I'll give 8Fang a go instead.

Really disappointed as I did like this motor while it worked + now all the hastle
getting this sorted out.

So beware.. the quality is questionable.
Inside the blue gear is a "needle ratchet gear ". It's really delicate. I replaced one after 18 months. The replacement only lasted a few days.
Awful noise.
 
Back
Top