new tsdz8 pswpower
- Thread starter pxl666
- Start date
I've had a new controller for mine and it's got different firmware, the original I bought was the same as yours but the new one is too powerful imo, there's not much difference between all levels, level 1 feels more powerful than level 3 on the old controller
Yeah i did see that but I can't be bothered to wait for parts etc with no guarantee it will sort it, I got no patience
, new motor is on way !I'm not keen on the new firmware,I find it too powerful in level 1 and a drain on the battery, I mean it feels great and works a treat but I would prefer a lesser option to save batteryI have the TSDZ8, and before updating the firmware, 1 and 2 had no power. With the latest upgrade it is excellent, good power and quiet. You do need the Jlink to do the upgrade, but it is very simple to do.
Good directions here:
The files needed are linked on that page.
Bought Bafang BBSHD 1000W cadence sensing motor with 46T chainring to see what it's like compared to my
TSDZ8 750W torque sensing motor with an aftermarket 52T chainring.
Using the same bike, just switched motors and the same 52 volt battery but different display.
I don't use a throttle, and as previously explained I want to pedal to get some exercise on my ~50km each way commute.
It's early days with the BBSHD fitted it this week and have done just 250km on it so far.
But I can already say that the TSDZ8 is by far the superior motor for my use, (using longish commute to improve/maintain non-E-bike cycling performance, without causing excessive fatigue).
Feels like it's very difficult to get much exercise with the motor, just delivers all the power even if soft pedalling.
The motor runs on after stopping pedalling for a second or so on higher power settings, I have to use the brakes on off constantly when riding in moving traffic.
It's faster than my second TSDZ8, easily maintains 55kmph and can hit over 60kmph on flat with tailwind or slightly downhill sections.Obviously because I don't contribute as much power, and I'm going faster my battery is being drained a lot faster.
So for me the TSDZ8 is a clear winner, much more enjoyable to ride, feels more natural, instantaneous power modulation based on torque, no run on, significantly less battery drained, and only 10 minutes or so slower.
TSDZ8 750W torque sensing motor with an aftermarket 52T chainring.
Using the same bike, just switched motors and the same 52 volt battery but different display.
I don't use a throttle, and as previously explained I want to pedal to get some exercise on my ~50km each way commute.
It's early days with the BBSHD fitted it this week and have done just 250km on it so far.
But I can already say that the TSDZ8 is by far the superior motor for my use, (using longish commute to improve/maintain non-E-bike cycling performance, without causing excessive fatigue).
Feels like it's very difficult to get much exercise with the motor, just delivers all the power even if soft pedalling.
The motor runs on after stopping pedalling for a second or so on higher power settings, I have to use the brakes on off constantly when riding in moving traffic.
It's faster than my second TSDZ8, easily maintains 55kmph and can hit over 60kmph on flat with tailwind or slightly downhill sections.Obviously because I don't contribute as much power, and I'm going faster my battery is being drained a lot faster.
So for me the TSDZ8 is a clear winner, much more enjoyable to ride, feels more natural, instantaneous power modulation based on torque, no run on, significantly less battery drained, and only 10 minutes or so slower.
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Carbone
1 mW
Hi gospeed,
i have a TSDZ8, and i'm an experimented cyclist (I know how to press the pedals).
My motor is really different from yours : the assistance is very low : it starts well (but soft not impressive) and after 20 meters it seems to have a lack of power. In steep climbs (10% or more), it's really difficult to maintain 15 km/h. The impression is that it does not exceed 200 - 250w (in level 4)
I'm looking for the cause: is it the battery that is unable to deliver the intensity (which would explain the almost normal behavior on starting and then the suffocating sensation afterwards) or is it the torque sensor that is not doing its job properly?
Can you give me the value RE on your motor ?
i have a TSDZ8, and i'm an experimented cyclist (I know how to press the pedals).
My motor is really different from yours : the assistance is very low : it starts well (but soft not impressive) and after 20 meters it seems to have a lack of power. In steep climbs (10% or more), it's really difficult to maintain 15 km/h. The impression is that it does not exceed 200 - 250w (in level 4)
I'm looking for the cause: is it the battery that is unable to deliver the intensity (which would explain the almost normal behavior on starting and then the suffocating sensation afterwards) or is it the torque sensor that is not doing its job properly?
Can you give me the value RE on your motor ?
My experience is based on a 52volt battery fully charged to almost 58volts, dropping to 52 volts at 50% capacity
A bike and rider system weight of around 100-105kg, Road bike with dropped bars, 32mm width road tyres, Gear ratio 52Tx 11-34
PAS 1 did practically nothing, it felt like cycling a concrete bike.
PAS 2 was like cycling a normal bike only not as pleasant.
PAS 3 Great level of power delivery but saved some battery
PAS 4 Slightly better than level 3
PAS 5 Full power 45-50kmph of flat ground with no headwind in gears (52T X 11/12/13/14)
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I can't give you the value RE at present, as I've taken the motor off my bike trial a different motor. When I put it back on or install it onto another bike I can do that, but likely will be after Christmas.
It might be an issue with the motor, torque sensor, the battery, the firmware or possibly that torque sensors, I suspect, probably give more assistance to stronger riders who can apply more force on the pedals.
What is the performance like on flat ground?
What is the battery voltage?
What is the combined Weight of rider and bike?
What gear ratios are you using and what is your average cadence?
What is your level of cycling fitness?
A 10% slope is tough and depending on the weight of the bike and rider it might take quite a lot of power to keep going at 15kmph. 15kmph does sound quite slow even accounting for that.
If you use a harder gear (lower cadence) on the bike and stand up does that increase the performance?
Just wondering is the problem that you're not applying enough force for the torque sensor to give you maximum performance?
I would also suggest installing the throttle if you have one, to see what the performance with throttle is versus PAS based on Torque.
Do you have a programming cable?
Carbone
1 mW
Sorry for my late reply, but things don't always go as we would like.
To answer your questions:
- my bike: road bike, 700x37 tires, 44 tooth chainring, 11/28 cassette, sram dualdrive (difficult to know the maximum development)
- total weight bike + cyclist: 100 kgs
- pedaling frequency between 70 and 80 rpms
- on the flat I ride at about 30 km/h on level 1 and 35 on level 4 (VLCD5, only 4 levels), giving about 150w with the legs
- I do 2500 kms of hard mountain biking per year on average since 1990, so I think I am pretty well trained
- there is no real difference in assistance whether I ride at 50 rpm or 100 rpm
Yesterday, 3 times for a few seconds, the motor seemed to work normally (i.e., a bit like my daughter's Bafang 750w), with a real impression of power. Why these moments of "normal" operation? I don't see....
I ordered a trigger to try if the engine works normally when it does not use the torque sensor or the PAS.
PSWpower is sending me a new torque sensor. I will receive it soon. I hope that the problem comes from there and that I will finally be able to enjoy a powerful engine (I have a hill with 18% sections to go to work)
To answer your questions:
- my bike: road bike, 700x37 tires, 44 tooth chainring, 11/28 cassette, sram dualdrive (difficult to know the maximum development)
- total weight bike + cyclist: 100 kgs
- pedaling frequency between 70 and 80 rpms
- on the flat I ride at about 30 km/h on level 1 and 35 on level 4 (VLCD5, only 4 levels), giving about 150w with the legs
- I do 2500 kms of hard mountain biking per year on average since 1990, so I think I am pretty well trained
- there is no real difference in assistance whether I ride at 50 rpm or 100 rpm
Yesterday, 3 times for a few seconds, the motor seemed to work normally (i.e., a bit like my daughter's Bafang 750w), with a real impression of power. Why these moments of "normal" operation? I don't see....
I ordered a trigger to try if the engine works normally when it does not use the torque sensor or the PAS.
PSWpower is sending me a new torque sensor. I will receive it soon. I hope that the problem comes from there and that I will finally be able to enjoy a powerful engine (I have a hill with 18% sections to go to work)
raylo32
100 kW
Not sure what is going on but that seems very weak. On my old TSDZ2 150W of legs at max level would get 30+ MPH, not 30KPH.
Matze_Senpaii
10 mW
has there been finally some new Firmware thats good enough? My tsdz8 is sitting in the box, not sure if i should sell it or wait or hope for better Firmware..
Yeah that is very disappointing and not my experience with the TSDZ8. With light pedaling in max PAS I'd expect 40kmph with your level of cycling experience, bike and total weight.
I also bought my second one from PSW Power, so I would expect your motor to perform much like mine, it is a real pleasure to cycle.
Ideally you could just return the item as it's faulty for a refund repair or replacement.
Having taken my first one apart, I would caution against trying to open the motor up without first trying to re-programme it unless you are certain that the issue is the torque sensor.
It will be a couple of hours of work, and there is very little information on the motor apart from the Varstrom video on YouTube. You have to hammer the spindle out from the non drive side to get to the torque sensor, and after that you're on your own to figure out what to do, or hope it's the same as it's predecessor.
I hope whatever you decide to do you get a working tsdz8 as it really is a pleasure to ride compared to the bafang.
I'd ask about getting a replacement before trying to tackle a torque sensor transplant.
Hi everyone, I'm experiencing power cuts on my tsdz8 coupled with a 19.2ah G70 battery. Sometimes I can't restart the battery until I plug in the charger, so quite bad. The battery seller told me that the motor requires too much power and that triggers the battery protection. Is it safe to reduce the nominal power from the vlcd display setting to see if that helps? The default is 16A, I'm trying with 14A.
Any help will be useful, thank you
Edit: It just cut the power even with 14A... I suppose I'll try to return the battery
Any help will be useful, thank you
Edit: It just cut the power even with 14A... I suppose I'll try to return the battery
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I don't think that setting does anything. I've tried it in both ends of the scale and felt no difference.Hi everyone, I'm experiencing power cuts on my tsdz8 coupled with a 19.2ah G70 battery. Sometimes I can't restart the battery until I plug in the charger, so quite bad. The battery seller told me that the motor requires too much power and that triggers the battery protection. Is it safe to reduce the nominal power from the vlcd display setting to see if that helps? The default is 16A, I'm trying with 14A.
Any help will be useful, thank you
Edit: It just cut the power even with 14A... I suppose I'll try to return the battery
What's the combined weight of bike and yourself? Do you always start in a low gear when moving off? Starting in a high gear can cause the motor to pull a lot of power.
Hi everyone, I'm experiencing power cuts on my tsdz8 coupled with a 19.2ah G70 battery. Sometimes I can't restart the battery until I plug in the charger, so quite bad. The battery seller told me that the motor requires too much power and that triggers the battery protection. Is it safe to reduce the nominal power from the vlcd display setting to see if that helps? The default is 16A, I'm trying with 14A.
Any help will be useful, thank you
Edit: It just cut the power even with 14A... I suppose I'll try to return the battery
What battery do you have (it is not a 36V battery by any chance)? Did you check voltage?
I'm quite light, me+bike would be about 85 kg. It doesn't happen when I start, it always happens when a slope comes while riding and I push a bit harder to gain momentum for it. And always happens when the battery is below 75% or so.
I measured battery voltage twice after it happened, once it was 49V and yesterday was 46V, so that seems normal. Seems really like oversensitive protection against too high power draw. I wish this display setting worked ...
Matze_Senpaii
10 mW
got a link or screenshot of your battery ? maybe it only has a 20a Bms, that could be the reason for cut off.... i hope you are able to return it
Matze_Senpaii
10 mW
also just some new info;
pswpower now sells tsdz8 with different display options
pswpower now sells tsdz8 with different display options
51V is very low for fully charged 48V battery. Looks like unbalanced cells to me. Wait for more qualified people to give some advice.
If you're measuring that with a multimeter on the battery output, that's almost certainly a battery problem. Most common is mismatched or failing cells, where the highest voltage ones as it first hits full charge (before you let it sit for hours, days, or weeks to balance) are the worst cells with the lowest capacity / highest resistance. Appears to charge to full because those cells are overcharged by some amount before HVC kicks in, then they're drained down by the balancers (or internal leakage) and then the overal pack voltage can be a lot lower (this usually takes up to a few hours).
The going up in voltage doesn't make sense, however, assuming you'd disconnected the charger. If you hadn't, then it makese sense if the BMS turned off the connection to the battery, and you were then just reading the charger output voltage (which should be about that much).
If there *are* mismatched / failing cells, then they'll also drop down in voltage under load, and make the whole pack voltage drop. If it's low enough it will cause the BMS to actually turn system power off. If not, it can just cause the controller LVC to engage and turn off the assist (or with some controllers it will just lessen the assist as voltage drops far enough so you still get some assist without killing the battery).
Thank you very much for the reply. I actually have two bikes with the same motor/battery combo and both are having the same issue. So I suppose it's a common issue for this battery. Actually the seller told me that the g80 model is better and he's discontuning the g70 when I was ordering but I assumed he's just trying to sell the more expensive one and went for g70. So I feel he knows there are issues with the it. I'll keep trying to return/exhange them for g80, he's refusing for now.
I just tested the fully charged battery again and now it's at 52.1V
Here's a link to the battery and I'm attaching a screenshot of the model.
Attachments
marvin78
10 kW
G70 is the 'model' of the enclosure, it doesn't have a lot to do with what's inside ( other then offering space constraints limiting the amount of cells you can put inside ).
I love my G70 because of it's full metal mounting plate offering a lot of rigidity and it lining up perfectly for my existing waterbotel mounts so the battery sits perfectly on the downtube with maybe leaving 5mm space between the seatstay and battery. I feel this is the most optimal weight placement, and of all the mounting plates I have seen and treid, none give the stability of a G70.
I love my G70 because of it's full metal mounting plate offering a lot of rigidity and it lining up perfectly for my existing waterbotel mounts so the battery sits perfectly on the downtube with maybe leaving 5mm space between the seatstay and battery. I feel this is the most optimal weight placement, and of all the mounting plates I have seen and treid, none give the stability of a G70.
I'll try to balance the battery by leaving it plugged in the charger for 12 hours for 3 times. From what I understand this could help.
One question about balancing, is it needed to discharge it to a certain percentage before doing it or it doesn't matter?
One question about balancing, is it needed to discharge it to a certain percentage before doing it or it doesn't matter?
