new tsdz8 pswpower

Yeah that is very disappointing and not my experience with the TSDZ8. With light pedaling in max PAS I'd expect 40kmph with your level of cycling experience, bike and total weight.

I also bought my second one from PSW Power, so I would expect your motor to perform much like mine, it is a real pleasure to cycle.

Ideally you could just return the item as it's faulty for a refund repair or replacement.

Having taken my first one apart, I would caution against trying to open the motor up without first trying to re-programme it unless you are certain that the issue is the torque sensor.

It will be a couple of hours of work, and there is very little information on the motor apart from the Varstrom video on YouTube. You have to hammer the spindle out from the non drive side to get to the torque sensor, and after that you're on your own to figure out what to do, or hope it's the same as it's predecessor.

I hope whatever you decide to do you get a working tsdz8 as it really is a pleasure to ride compared to the bafang.

I'd ask about getting a replacement before trying to tackle a torque sensor transplant.
I received a new torque sensor from PswPower.
But before mounting it, I will test a throttle (I ordered one) to validate that the power problem is indeed due to the torque sensor.

Now, reading the recent posts on the topic, I wonder if my problems do not come from my battery which is several years old, even if it has been used very little. I seem to have understood that the TSDZ8 limits the power if the battery is discharged.
But on the other hand, the LCD5 indicator does not drop when I ride, and I do not notice any difference between a charged battery and a battery discharged to 2/3.
 
I'll try to balance the battery by leaving it plugged in the charger for 12 hours for 3 times. From what I understand this could help.
Remember that all balancing means is to make all the cells the same voltage at some point in the state of charge curve, usually at the full voltage point.

It doesn't fix the problems the cells have that cause imbalance--those require replacing the cells with ones that match the remaining cells in capacity, resistance, and all the other properties.

Imbalance is caused by the differences between cells, either because they were mismatched to start with (most common), or because they're old and wearing out.

Batteries that start off with problems or don't have the full capacity they are advertised for, are often made of mismatched cells. That can simply be that they are all new same-model cells from different batches or unsorted same-batch cells. Or it can be as bad as the pack being built ouf recycled garbage cells, which by nature are completely unmatched and often wildly different from each other (commonly not even the same brand, model, and possibly not even the same chemistry), sometimes rewrapped and recapped as if they were some name-brand new cell, sometimes left original.



One question about balancing, is it needed to discharge it to a certain percentage before doing it or it doesn't matter?
Most BMS that have a balancing function (many cheap ones don't) use it only at the very top of charge, when the battery is reaching full.

They usually have a very tiny shunting current ability, so a major imbalance can take days or even weeks to "correct" (keeping in mind that this doesn't fix any problem other than making them all the same voltage; they're still different capacities, etc).
 
Or it can be as bad as the pack being built ouf recycled garbage cells, which by nature are completely unmatched and often wildly different from each other (commonly not even the same brand, model, and possibly not even the same chemistry), sometimes rewrapped and recapped as if they were some name-brand new cell, sometimes left original.
Unbelievable! Have you personally disassembled and examined such a pack?
 
Now, reading the recent posts on the topic, I wonder if my problems do not come from my battery which is several years old, even if it has been used very little. I seem to have understood that the TSDZ8 limits the power if the battery is discharged.
But on the other hand, the LCD5 indicator does not drop when I ride, and I do not notice any difference between a charged battery and a battery discharged to 2/3.

It is normal for old battery to go out of balance after few years ESPECIALLY when it is used very little.
Battery capacity indicator on display is very inaccurate. Best to check battery voltage.
 
Thanks Az to your help.

I received my throttle, and I tested my engine: wow! Where I struggled to go up to 15 km/h, I reach almost double by combining throttle and pedaling!
So that rules out a problem with the battery.

I'm going to mount the new torque sensor that PswPower sent me and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it works.
 
Thanks Az to your help.

I received my throttle, and I tested my engine: wow! Where I struggled to go up to 15 km/h, I reach almost double by combining throttle and pedaling!
So that rules out a problem with the battery.

I'm going to mount the new torque sensor that PswPower sent me and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it works.

One silly question... when you switch motor on, do you keep your feet off the pedals? After switching motor on, torque sensor calibrates itself for few seconds. If you apply pressure at that time calibration is incorrect.
 
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Swapping out the torque sensor assembly is not like swapping out a battery. It is not within the skill level of the average person. I am surprised they sent you a torque sensor instead of a new motor. Have you done a torque sensor swap on your TSDZ2's? It requires circlip pliers, a press and the correct size adapter. Wear eye protection when working with circlips.
 
Thanks Az to your help.

I received my throttle, and I tested my engine: wow! Where I struggled to go up to 15 km/h, I reach almost double by combining throttle and pedaling!
So that rules out a problem with the battery.

I'm going to mount the new torque sensor that PswPower sent me and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it works.
Does your TSDZ8 use the VLDC5? Have you tried reading the TE and TE1 values with that display? If not, this would be a good time to do that. Then see what you get when the T/S is replaced. See if it made a difference,
 
It actually looks doable tho. And it doesn't require proprietary tools like with tsdz2(b) with it's gear/clutch removal method, here you remove circ clips and use a rubber hammer on the spindle from the other side.
 
It actually looks doable tho. And it doesn't require proprietary tools like with tsdz2(b) with it's gear/clutch removal method, here you remove circ clips and use a rubber hammer on the spindle from the other side.
yeah it definitely looks doable if it all goes like in the video. It would be an entire evening or maybe more, with time to take it off and on the bike added in. Plus sometimes there are little things that aren't shown in videos that take ages to resolve.

I also don't think the average person would have circlip pliers in the house, and definitely not the circlip press, so that's an added expense. Probably don't need the press though.

Are there any video showing the clutch mechanism ? I don't have a Facebook so can't check there, have only YouTube as a resource to check.
 
I don't have Facebook either, I just knew the video existed because I saw it posted before somewhere so I searched on Google which lead me to that link.

.. I normally don't have circclip pliers but only because I no longer have a moped... most kids around here tinker on their own stuff, hard to replace your 50cc with a 70cc Malossi if you can't get there stock piston of the crack shaft.
 
So I mounted the new sensor. (i have a good experience in mechanical) The most touchy part is replacing the big washer receiving the signal : You have to manage to pass the two very thin little wires in a narrow channel where 4 wires already pass (those of the PAS).

Now, the engine works great. Nothing to see! Where I was struggling to get to 12-13 km/h by pedaling hard, I now go to more than 20 with ease.

I measured the gap between the magnet and the small Hall effect sensor: 0.9mm on the old one, 0.5mm on the new one. Maybe that was the problem.

Everything would be perfect if PswPower had sent me the right gasket (the previous one had broken into pieces). I'm going to ask him for the right one.
 
So I mounted the new sensor. (i have a good experience in mechanical) The most touchy part is replacing the big washer receiving the signal : You have to manage to pass the two very thin little wires in a narrow channel where 4 wires already pass (those of the PAS).

Now, the engine works great. Nothing to see! Where I was struggling to get to 12-13 km/h by pedaling hard, I now go to more than 20 with ease.

I measured the gap between the magnet and the small Hall effect sensor: 0.9mm on the old one, 0.5mm on the new one. Maybe that was the problem.

Everything would be perfect if PswPower had sent me the right gasket (the previous one had broken into pieces). I'm going to ask him for the right one.
So they sent you just the little circuit board? Did they send you any instructions? Congratulation on a successful job!
 
I also don't think the average person would have circlip pliers in the house, and definitely not the circlip press, so that's an added expense. Probably don't need the press though.
You can use needlenose pliers to deal with circlips, if the tips are small enough for the circlip holes. If they aren't, but you ahve a spare set of NN's you can sacrifice, you can carefully file the tips to fit your circlips, even angling them as needed to reach ones that require that.

You can even add a spring to NNs to either pull them shut or push them open to help them help you remove the circlips, but that gets a little more complicated and depends on the stuff you may have laying around to use for springs.
 
You can use needlenose pliers to deal with circlips, if the tips are small enough for the circlip holes. If they aren't, but you ahve a spare set of NN's you can sacrifice, you can carefully file the tips to fit your circlips, even angling them as needed to reach ones that require that.

You can even add a spring to NNs to either pull them shut or push them open to help them help you remove the circlips, but that gets a little more complicated and depends on the stuff you may have laying around to use for springs.
Yeah I used an electric grinding wheel to do just that with an old pair, but they aren't ideal to use. not as precise I'd imagine as they are straight instead of having a curve. Pulling them apart also wasn't ideal. It's a good reminder to order a proper pair.
 
So I mounted the new sensor. (i have a good experience in mechanical) The most touchy part is replacing the big washer receiving the signal : You have to manage to pass the two very thin little wires in a narrow channel where 4 wires already pass (those of the PAS).

Now, the engine works great. Nothing to see! Where I was struggling to get to 12-13 km/h by pedaling hard, I now go to more than 20 with ease.

I measured the gap between the magnet and the small Hall effect sensor: 0.9mm on the old one, 0.5mm on the new one. Maybe that was the problem.

Everything would be perfect if PswPower had sent me the right gasket (the previous one had broken into pieces). I'm going to ask him for the right one.
Well I'm delighted that you have it working. Congratulations on fixing it. How long did it take?
 
For Gospeed : It takes 2 hours (motor stay on the bike).
Changing the torque sensor itself takes 30 mns, but changing the big washer takes me a lot of time.

For Zambam : i've received the complete sensor, that :

tsdz2-torque-sensor-.jpg
 
Thanks for replying, 2 hours is pretty quick, hadn't considered that you could leave it on the bike.
 
If there hadn't been those damn wires to pass through the little hole, it would have taken less than an hour.

This morning I did my usual bike commute route. Nothing to do with the previous version of the sensor! I have a big climb (several sections at 18%) on the route, where I was struggling at 10 km/h, I go without difficulty to 16/17 km/h.

This engine is really nice now, quite comparable to a mainstream engine like Bosch, Shimano in terms of sensation, but more powerful.
 
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