Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit
- Thread starter sk8norcal
- Start date
marcn
100 W
Anyone have a solution for a strong well built kickstand?
Mammalian04
100 kW
I have been coordinating my wheel build between Prowheels, Greyborg, Buchanan (spokes), and Voltriders. However, Voltriders seems very busy right now.
Has anyone had Prowheels lace up a motor and wheel for them? I am wondering if they can do the build.
Has anyone had Prowheels lace up a motor and wheel for them? I am wondering if they can do the build.
mattrb
100 W
Prowheel does not lace. Contact a local in your town. Google "austin wheel building" for more info.Mammalian04 said:
stevetooke
1 mW
Try amazon for the Shinko SR241 tyres.
I live in Brisbane and they were $70US delivered to my front door!
I live in Brisbane and they were $70US delivered to my front door!
Rix
100 TW
Longshot said:
The reason I said 18 is the best is subjective to splitting the difference between the 17 and 19 for accleration and still looking sort of bicyclish which I place the highest value on. But being objective, with the exception of mechanical advantage wich contributes to accleration, the 19x1.4 rim with the SR241 is the best for onroad and offroad whether combined with the same on the front, or the 24MTB, and as Offroader reported, the 26MTB. All these combos work well with the 19x1.4 rim and SR241. Both the 17x1.4 and 18x1.4 work good with a 24MTB on the front as well as a 19x1.4 on the front, but I suspect it would look a little funny with a 26MTB on the front. Not to mention the slack angle decrease in the fork causing more slow speed handling drama. All in all, the 19x1.4 is the best and most universal rim/tire combo that can be run.
I got dizzy reading through so many wheel combos for my Raptor. I was thinking a 17" would do, but the Raptor is such a large frame. I have now settled in getting the 19" for the rear and the 21" for the front. Maybe I'm crazy and should stick with 19" all around. But the same money I can put towards an A123 battery pack, something like 24s5p 26650 pack.
Mammalian04
100 kW
mattrb said:
Prowheels does lace. I already reached out to verify. $50 bucks each wheel to lace and true.
What I meant to ask was if anyone has had them do a hub motor and what was their experience with the end product.
Rix
100 TW
Mammalian04 said:
On my very first lace job, I sent my 5403 to Gary at Prowheel and he laced it up to his 19x1.4 yamaha play bike rim for me. I was the first person Gary had ever sold one of his rim's to for ebike hub motor applications. Gary likes to gaurentee his work, but he wont do it for ebikes because he doesn't punch out spoke hole angles to match hubmotors. Since then Gary has worked with ebike retailers custom sizing and punching spoke holes in rims specifically for hub motors. Holmes Hobbies will have a bulk order of his rims with angle specific holes punched for ebike motors soon. Based on my last phone convesation with Gary,(march 2014) he isn't going to dip into the ebike wheel/rim supply manufacture aspects himself, he is sticking with MCs only and will help out others retailers who specialize in ebikes. Anyway back to my first wheel build, when I got my motor back from him, I had to true and tension the spokes, because I pulled the stator and only sent him the hub shell to save money on shipping weight. The qaulity of Prowheel Racings spokes and rims are top knotch, if Gary will lace up one of his rims to a hub motor for you, it will be great. To date, I have ran 3 of his rims and spoke on the bomber and Fighter, great products, can recommend Prowheel Racing rims enough for anyone that wants an MC rim on their Ebike.
Rick
I finally got around to upgrading my battery pack to 18s8p, or 24 packs of Turnigy 6s 5000 MAH 20C. I had 15 packs before the upgrade.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9176__Turnigy_5000mAh_6S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html
From my calculation this is 2664 Watt Hours of battery capacity.
To put how much that is into perspective.
This is over 150% battery capacity of a stealth fighter. Stealth fighter has 1000 watt hours.
It is over 75% battery capacity of a stealth bomber. Stealth bomber has 1500 watt hours.
It took hours to do this job, probably a complete day, and I just had enough room to fit all 24 packs, wires, connectors and balance leads. I actually had to spend a lot of time to carefully position the wires to allow for the side covers to fit. I left the triangle padding at the bottom, this could be removed for a little more room.
What I should have done differently and may do in the future is solder smaller gauge wire on the batteries with smaller connectors to give more room. However, this type of job requires a lot of hours to do, easily of a full complete day of work.
I was worried by adding 9 additional packs of batteries, which weigh 15 pounds, would make the bike too bulky as the handling and balance is perfect. From my quick test drive and maneuvering the bike around, I can't even notice the extra battery weight. This wasn't the case when I went from 8 packs to 15 packs on my cross country ebike.
Here is what 2664 watt hours of power looks like. Each battery is connected by the balance leads in three banks of 8 packs each for easy balance charging outside the bike.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9176__Turnigy_5000mAh_6S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html
From my calculation this is 2664 Watt Hours of battery capacity.
To put how much that is into perspective.
This is over 150% battery capacity of a stealth fighter. Stealth fighter has 1000 watt hours.
It is over 75% battery capacity of a stealth bomber. Stealth bomber has 1500 watt hours.
It took hours to do this job, probably a complete day, and I just had enough room to fit all 24 packs, wires, connectors and balance leads. I actually had to spend a lot of time to carefully position the wires to allow for the side covers to fit. I left the triangle padding at the bottom, this could be removed for a little more room.
What I should have done differently and may do in the future is solder smaller gauge wire on the batteries with smaller connectors to give more room. However, this type of job requires a lot of hours to do, easily of a full complete day of work.
I was worried by adding 9 additional packs of batteries, which weigh 15 pounds, would make the bike too bulky as the handling and balance is perfect. From my quick test drive and maneuvering the bike around, I can't even notice the extra battery weight. This wasn't the case when I went from 8 packs to 15 packs on my cross country ebike.
Here is what 2664 watt hours of power looks like. Each battery is connected by the balance leads in three banks of 8 packs each for easy balance charging outside the bike.
The question some of you want to know is how many 5000 MAH packs can fit inside the raptor frame.
From my test fitting them, and removing the padding in the bottom corner of the bike I could really only fit 26 packs. Fitting 27 packs may be possible, but I don't think you can do it. A possibility would be to take some battery packs apart to fit them in the some small spaces where a complete pack will not fit. You may be able to get 28 packs this way.
I thought it wasn't possible for me to fit 24 packs and the wire harnesses at first, I was kind of pissed when I started to wire my batteries after hours of upgrading my wire harnesses, and didn't think it was possible as there was no possible way to close the cover with all those connectors. However, I was able to hide some of the harness and connectors in some of the free spaces.
Here is a pic of 24 packs without any padding, two packs are hidden in the front of the frame. You can fit only two more at the very top. Adding any more than two more and the top of the battery compartment will prevent fitting any more.
From my test fitting them, and removing the padding in the bottom corner of the bike I could really only fit 26 packs. Fitting 27 packs may be possible, but I don't think you can do it. A possibility would be to take some battery packs apart to fit them in the some small spaces where a complete pack will not fit. You may be able to get 28 packs this way.
I thought it wasn't possible for me to fit 24 packs and the wire harnesses at first, I was kind of pissed when I started to wire my batteries after hours of upgrading my wire harnesses, and didn't think it was possible as there was no possible way to close the cover with all those connectors. However, I was able to hide some of the harness and connectors in some of the free spaces.
Here is a pic of 24 packs without any padding, two packs are hidden in the front of the frame. You can fit only two more at the very top. Adding any more than two more and the top of the battery compartment will prevent fitting any more.
GreenRoad
100 W
Hello
First we want to thanks Qulbix for the hiqh quality frames.
Qulbix made for us some litle modification at the rear swing, that we could use our new Central Motor - middle drive Motor - CPD@torcman with integrated gear.
I want to show the current project status. There are still some electrical modification at work.
We use the Qulbix frame, becaus its now the first frame, which could handle our input torque.
In the first step - we build an Bike without pedals. In the second step there will be the possibility to use pedals.
On the bike you could find the new middle drive Motor CPD - some information at: http://www.greenroad.at/cpd system.htm (in german)
The CPD motor is a outrunner motorsystem - handbuild in germany [@torcman] - with about max 2500W continuance operation. The motor has an integrated gear.
The output rpm at the Motor ist now about 200rpm - 250rpm - we use an 18tooht pinion
At the 26" tyre - we use an 13tooth pinion.
The transmission is now fix.
The actual speed is about 30km/h - this is an legal street bike in Austria (thats the background)
The input Power for the motor is about - 1500W (12S LiMn battery with about 20Ah capacity)
The maximum Output torque - should be about at the range between (200Nm - 400Nm) - we have to measure this at an test bench for final proof.
The Qulbix bike weight ist now with the 1000Wh battery - 27kg
In our first tests, with this transmission setup its no problem to drive up at 44% - 53% - with an 90kg person.
In the next week we will finish the testings and i could give more technical details.
I also upload a video at youtube
[youtube]N9Ii9vg_EzU[/youtube]
First we want to thanks Qulbix for the hiqh quality frames.
Qulbix made for us some litle modification at the rear swing, that we could use our new Central Motor - middle drive Motor - CPD@torcman with integrated gear.
I want to show the current project status. There are still some electrical modification at work.
We use the Qulbix frame, becaus its now the first frame, which could handle our input torque.
In the first step - we build an Bike without pedals. In the second step there will be the possibility to use pedals.
On the bike you could find the new middle drive Motor CPD - some information at: http://www.greenroad.at/cpd system.htm (in german)
The CPD motor is a outrunner motorsystem - handbuild in germany [@torcman] - with about max 2500W continuance operation. The motor has an integrated gear.
The output rpm at the Motor ist now about 200rpm - 250rpm - we use an 18tooht pinion
At the 26" tyre - we use an 13tooth pinion.
The transmission is now fix.
The actual speed is about 30km/h - this is an legal street bike in Austria (thats the background)
The input Power for the motor is about - 1500W (12S LiMn battery with about 20Ah capacity)
The maximum Output torque - should be about at the range between (200Nm - 400Nm) - we have to measure this at an test bench for final proof.
The Qulbix bike weight ist now with the 1000Wh battery - 27kg
In our first tests, with this transmission setup its no problem to drive up at 44% - 53% - with an 90kg person.
In the next week we will finish the testings and i could give more technical details.
I also upload a video at youtube
[youtube]N9Ii9vg_EzU[/youtube]
Attachments
marcn
100 W
Is that device using the length of the screen only to measure grade? FIrst time I read of anywhere in the world that's rideable at a 53% grade (something I randomly search for).
At 2.34 it's quite evident it's just bogged down. What was the grade on this climb?
At 2.34 it's quite evident it's just bogged down. What was the grade on this climb?
Mammalian04
100 kW
Cool to see other ideas for the Raptor. Good luck with the Build!
GreenRoad
100 W
Hello
I use the Iphone 5s for measure the grade - i do not know how exactly this device is - but its only a benchmark for us.
Now the climbing grade does not realy matters for us, because we can easily change the pinion at the rear - and change it from 13 up to 22 without any problems.
But in the next step we also would use an chain circuit or an nuvinci.
It belongs to the aplication - if you want drive on the street or open country.
Now its very funny to drive in open country, also the weight of the bike - about 27kg (59lbs) is okay and the bike is very good to handle.
we will also check perhaps to change from 26" to 24" or less - but 26" is very good for handling.
I use the Iphone 5s for measure the grade - i do not know how exactly this device is - but its only a benchmark for us.
Now the climbing grade does not realy matters for us, because we can easily change the pinion at the rear - and change it from 13 up to 22 without any problems.
But in the next step we also would use an chain circuit or an nuvinci.
It belongs to the aplication - if you want drive on the street or open country.
Now its very funny to drive in open country, also the weight of the bike - about 27kg (59lbs) is okay and the bike is very good to handle.
we will also check perhaps to change from 26" to 24" or less - but 26" is very good for handling.
chilau2000
1 W
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2014
- Messages
- 51
Hi
Seeing if anyone in the uk is interested in meeting for some off road riding Surrey area.
Lots of good single track trails in the South/North downs.
Seeing if anyone in the uk is interested in meeting for some off road riding Surrey area.
Lots of good single track trails in the South/North downs.
chilau2000
1 W
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2014
- Messages
- 51
Finished my Torque Raptor build last Friday.
Been following this thread for a few months now whilst waiting for all the parts to arrive.
Spec:
Boxxer RC forks
Fox DHX 5 coil rear shock
26 "Halo SAS front wheel with Maxxis Holy Roller tyre
24" Halo SAS rear wheel with Maxxis Holy Roller tyre
Crystatlyte HS3540 hub motor 10K thermistor
12 fet infineon controller
Cycle Analyst V3
Shimano Zee brakes
Hayes 203 disc rotors
18S 16ah Lipo pack at the mo
Have set up a 3 way switch as well for 30%, 60% and 100% settings, 30% equates to about 15mph top speed and 200W continuous
20140610_164721_resized_1 by chilau2000, on Flickr
20140610_171047_resized_1 by chilau2000, on Flickr
20140610_171625_resized-2 by chilau2000, on Flickr
Mechanic doing the hub motor wiring
20140614_161129 by chilau2000, on Flickr
20140614_161141_resized by chilau2000, on Flickr
Been following this thread for a few months now whilst waiting for all the parts to arrive.
Spec:
Boxxer RC forks
Fox DHX 5 coil rear shock
26 "Halo SAS front wheel with Maxxis Holy Roller tyre
24" Halo SAS rear wheel with Maxxis Holy Roller tyre
Crystatlyte HS3540 hub motor 10K thermistor
12 fet infineon controller
Cycle Analyst V3
Shimano Zee brakes
Hayes 203 disc rotors
18S 16ah Lipo pack at the mo
Have set up a 3 way switch as well for 30%, 60% and 100% settings, 30% equates to about 15mph top speed and 200W continuous
20140610_164721_resized_1 by chilau2000, on Flickr20140610_171047_resized_1 by chilau2000, on Flickr20140610_171625_resized-2 by chilau2000, on FlickrMechanic doing the hub motor wiring
20140614_161129 by chilau2000, on Flickr20140614_161141_resized by chilau2000, on Flickr
marcn
100 W
How would using a 3 switch off the controller and 3 switch off the CAv3 work? Presumably the controllers switches govern so if you have it in switch 1 20% power and then switch 1 on the CAv3 for 50% power, what happens?
chilau2000
1 W
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2014
- Messages
- 51
I've got the 3 way switch wired just into the controller at the moment, will probably change it to be wired to the cycle analyst in the future as it is easier to change settings.
Don't think you would have both wired up with a 3 way switch.
If you did the controller setting switch would govern the max speed that the cycle analyst could control.
Don't think you would have both wired up with a 3 way switch.
If you did the controller setting switch would govern the max speed that the cycle analyst could control.
I'm a little bit down right now. 
First, those 15 pounds of extra batteries seems to make the bike handle not as well. It isn't that noticeable but I notice that some of the things I have done before seem a bit harder, like climbing certain stairs or other things.
I am not sure if I have to relearn the handling of the bike or if adding 15 pounds is enough to make the bike handle not as good.
My motor also started to give me a bit of trouble during the first ride with the extra batteries. I am not sure if the extra capacity is too hard on the cromotor, not in terms of weight alone but also I am running the motor for a lot longer and heating it up for longer. I don't think the cromotor can take this abuse. It may also be my controller, but either way, It is just not a coincidence that this all happened when I added those extra batteries.
First, those 15 pounds of extra batteries seems to make the bike handle not as well. It isn't that noticeable but I notice that some of the things I have done before seem a bit harder, like climbing certain stairs or other things.
I am not sure if I have to relearn the handling of the bike or if adding 15 pounds is enough to make the bike handle not as good.
My motor also started to give me a bit of trouble during the first ride with the extra batteries. I am not sure if the extra capacity is too hard on the cromotor, not in terms of weight alone but also I am running the motor for a lot longer and heating it up for longer. I don't think the cromotor can take this abuse. It may also be my controller, but either way, It is just not a coincidence that this all happened when I added those extra batteries.
Mammalian04
100 kW
Offroader said:I'm a little bit down right now.
First, those 15 pounds of extra batteries seems to make the bike handle not as well. It isn't that noticeable but I notice that some of the things I have done before seem a bit harder, like climbing certain stairs or other things.
I am not sure if I have to relearn the handling of the bike or if adding 15 pounds is enough to make the bike handle not as good.
My motor also started to give me a bit of trouble during the first ride with the extra batteries. I am not sure if the extra capacity is too hard on the cromotor, not in terms of weight alone but also I am running the motor for a lot longer and heating it up for longer. I don't think the cromotor can take this abuse. It may also be my controller, but either way, It is just not a coincidence that this all happened when I added those extra batteries.
I'm sorry to hear of your troubles Offroader! It sounds like I need to get my butt exercising on a treadmill to make up for some battery weight. Luckily for my weight loss plan, ordering individual parts is a huge P.I.T.A. and seems to be taking forever........
Mammalian04
100 kW
snellemin said:
I speak from experience on the Amp Limiter setting of Snellemin's bike. I have a lot of experience on 1000cc sport bikes and it was nice to have his "idiot proof" setting on Snellemin's bike for first trying it out.
Just because the bike won't go over 20mph (or whatever your setting is) doesn't mean it won't flip you off climbing a grade. I know it's a lot of switches but I plan on doing both like Snellemin's:
- 3 position switch to control max speed
- 3 position switch to control max amps
P.S. If I totally butchered the actual technical setup of your bike Snellemin, let me know and I will delete that part of my post before anyone realizes I don't know what I'm talking about... hmmm.... it may be too late for that!
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