Rix
100 TW
Merlin said:
Not bad at all.
Qulbix Raptor ebike + frame kit
- Thread starter sk8norcal
- Start date
Not bad at all.
Rix
100 TW
Honda CR85 forks are probably your best bet, even lighter are any fork that was designed for Trials Bikes. Most Trials MC forks have between 6 and 7 inches of travel. CR85 has 10.Longshot said:
Longshot said:
Someone actually has done this last year. Here is a link to his post and pictures.
Jeez, 10" of travel. That Honda fork would work well with my 10"+ rear travel.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=799833#p799833
upek
10 W
@Offroader
How much power (volts, amps, phase amps) you can pump into cromotor doing harder offroad without immediate overheating?
Thanks!
How much power (volts, amps, phase amps) you can pump into cromotor doing harder offroad without immediate overheating?
Thanks!
upek said:
This is a hard question to answer because it depends on a lot of variables. Things like outside air temp, how steep the hills are, how hot the motor is already, how much battery capacity you have. Basically I could overheat the motor with 2000 watts faster than 6000 watts under the right conditions.
Another important variable is the controller as I recently learned.
My old Lyen 18fet had something called block time which is set to 10 seconds, this supposedly means that the controller will pull as many amps (unlimited) from the battery for 10 seconds.
When I upgraded to the Max-E recently, my motor had no overheating issues because the phase amps are limited even though I am pushing more peak watts. The drawback is that I don't have nearly the low end power with the Max-E that I had with the Lyen 18fet. However, you get used to it and don't notice it after using the Max-E for a long time. This could also be because of the more linear throttle with the Max-E than having the instant power with the controller hooked up through the Lyen 18fet.
If the cromotor is still cold you can push the motor very hard for a while before it overheats. Once the cromotor has heated up you can not push it very much at all as it will quickly overheat. This is why when you have very high battery capacity you will overheat it because it will allow the cromotor to be fully saturated with heat. A 1000 watt battery pack isn't going to be enough to overheat the cromotor.
Hills also overheat the motor very quickly, if you push up a very steep hill or climb up something like stairs you will easily push the motor temp up 1 degree Celsius per second if the motor is already hot.
Offroading heats the cromotor up way quicker than driving it on the street. I can full throttle the cromotor forever in the summer and it will not overheat. When you drive offroad on grass and dirt it puts much more strain on the cromotor.
That being said I only pushed about 4300 watts or around 74 volts 65 battery amps with my lyen 18fet and the cromotor was easily overheated in the summer. I had to take constant 10-15 minute breaks and let the motor cool off and that only did so much. The Max-E is much better at 74 volts 72 amps (5300 watts) because it limits phase amps and having the throttle hooked through the max-e makes starting from stop less stressful also.
If you are worried about overheating than you should consider adding fans (EDF) inside the cromotor as I am working on. See this thread and the air duct approach. This should allow you to never have overheating issues. I'm still working on this project.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=968079#p968079
My recommendation would be to see how quickly you are overheating the cromotor with the power levels you want. If you are not having much problem with overheating than you are OK. You may just not have issues as it will depend on your driving style, battery capacity, how hard you push it, your offroad conditions, outside air temp, your controller, how hard you accelerate from stop. If you are having to constantly stop to let the motor cool off than you should consider adding a fan, air duct, and drilling some holes to the cromotor.
upek
10 W
Throttle control with Adaptto is much more precise. I was also disapointed with low takeoff power, but after some time I think that is much more comfortable.
I know that motor heating depends on many variables, but I needed some base values
I'm thinking about controller for MXUS 3000W (I know - it is little weaker than cromotor) My currrent choices are Mini-E (only 60A) or Sabvoton (80A or little more pricey 150A version) Max-E is unfortunately out of my reach.
In case of constant overheating problems I will be trying to do watercooling system.
Thanks for your reply!
I know that motor heating depends on many variables, but I needed some base values
I'm thinking about controller for MXUS 3000W (I know - it is little weaker than cromotor) My currrent choices are Mini-E (only 60A) or Sabvoton (80A or little more pricey 150A version) Max-E is unfortunately out of my reach.
In case of constant overheating problems I will be trying to do watercooling system.
Thanks for your reply!
Yes, it is really hard to give base values because of so many variables. It all depends on how you drive. When I offroad, I usually push to the max and I overheat quickly. It is especially worse when the temperature is 90 degrees F.
The Max-E with the precise throttle control, limited phase amps, and possibly more efficient running the cromotor really doesn't overheat the cromotor. However, I've yet to run it at 90 degree days, but I did run it in high 70's and it didn't overheat my cromotor where my lyen 18fet would have.
Watercooling system is nice, but it is too complicated and nobody sells a kit. The fan approach, and I'm not talking CPU fan buy a RC place EDF fan that spins at 80,000 RPM is easy to install and will cool that motor off probably instantly. Plus you only have to run it when you need it. You most likely won't need it most of the time and in the winter.
I also got used to the Max-E throttle and lower takeoff. You have to really push full throttle fast to get the bike to take off from a dead stop. The Max-E without doubt also has less power. I was trying to go up a steep hill and at full throttle it couldn't do it like the Lyen 18fet could. I was also running much higher battery amps. This probably all comes down to the limiting of the phase amps. But this limiting is what is probably making the motor run so much cooler, lots of heat is generated and wasted during low speed acceleration.
If you're not planning on charging with the controller, the Max-E makes it so easy to do. I'd probably get the Sabvoton for the sine-Wave quiet operation.
The Max-E with the precise throttle control, limited phase amps, and possibly more efficient running the cromotor really doesn't overheat the cromotor. However, I've yet to run it at 90 degree days, but I did run it in high 70's and it didn't overheat my cromotor where my lyen 18fet would have.
Watercooling system is nice, but it is too complicated and nobody sells a kit. The fan approach, and I'm not talking CPU fan buy a RC place EDF fan that spins at 80,000 RPM is easy to install and will cool that motor off probably instantly. Plus you only have to run it when you need it. You most likely won't need it most of the time and in the winter.
I also got used to the Max-E throttle and lower takeoff. You have to really push full throttle fast to get the bike to take off from a dead stop. The Max-E without doubt also has less power. I was trying to go up a steep hill and at full throttle it couldn't do it like the Lyen 18fet could. I was also running much higher battery amps. This probably all comes down to the limiting of the phase amps. But this limiting is what is probably making the motor run so much cooler, lots of heat is generated and wasted during low speed acceleration.
If you're not planning on charging with the controller, the Max-E makes it so easy to do. I'd probably get the Sabvoton for the sine-Wave quiet operation.
upek
10 W
It seems to be best choice - especially becouse I have few CC/CV power supplies for bulk charging (with BMS ofc)
You can check you phase amps in Profiles setup, second row "Ip A". 18fet is usually setting phase amps by this scheme:
battery amps x 2.5 = phase amps, so at 50A battery it will push 125A phase, but is also overshooting current, so we have great acceleration from dead stop.
So at 180A+ phase Adaptto should pull uphill in similar way.
You can check you phase amps in Profiles setup, second row "Ip A". 18fet is usually setting phase amps by this scheme:
battery amps x 2.5 = phase amps, so at 50A battery it will push 125A phase, but is also overshooting current, so we have great acceleration from dead stop.
So at 180A+ phase Adaptto should pull uphill in similar way.
upek: I actually maxed out my phase amps on my Max-E, or set it to as high as it would go. My display broke and I can't read anything now but I have it set to something around 360 I believe. It still doesn't have the low end power of my 18fet Lyen.
Maybe I'll unlock it in a year after the warranty is up and increase the power. The Max-E seems to be easily broke and too many people are having problems.
The display especially seems to be cheaply built and that is why my screen is broke and I have to eventually send it back for warranty.
Maybe I'll unlock it in a year after the warranty is up and increase the power. The Max-E seems to be easily broke and too many people are having problems.
The display especially seems to be cheaply built and that is why my screen is broke and I have to eventually send it back for warranty.
Has anyone fit a Thun BB with a single speed setup into a raptor 140? I cant find a Thun in 83mm to fit the Raptor's specs. I like the schlumpf but I never switch gears. I will also go LiFePo4 this time. Im too lazy and nervous to mess with the LiPos and watch them charge. Ill keep them around for short blasts or emergency back up. Ive been watching the exchange rate and Im getting that itch! I got the Holmes rims and they are sweet!
I have a 2nd Raptor Frame now on my Table.
From its serial it is build AFTER my first one.
But theres a different swingarm.
Its narrower.
The older one has 10cm Space for tyres.
the newer one has only 8,5cm Space for tyres.
can anybody confirm?
From its serial it is build AFTER my first one.
But theres a different swingarm.
Its narrower.
The older one has 10cm Space for tyres.
the newer one has only 8,5cm Space for tyres.
can anybody confirm?
Mammalian04
100 kW
At first I thought you were referring to the regular dropout vs. wider Cromotor dropout (165mm) but the numbers don't match yours. You must be measuring the front to back length of the swingarm opening.
Rix
100 TW
Mammalian04 said:
I think Merlin may be measuring the swingarm width where the cross base is as thats the narrowest part, and the numbers Merlin stated are narrower than a Walmart specials drop out widths, Merlin, can you confirm?
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
Offroader said:
the fact that the display of yours seemed to be defective, i would not blame that on poor product design in general.
the cav3 seems fairly well made, yet i have seen these short out due to water getting in etc, on some threads.
my own is still working but has developed some issues and cant be run on lower voltage now.
in comparison id say adaptto is probably in the same league or better...
the only adaptto display i have seen break like this is yours(condolences
) there must be more ofcourse but perhaps not a common problem as iv never seen reports.it would be interesting to see what adaptto says is the cause of the failure when you get the replacement.
GreenRoad
100 W
Hello
I´d like to show new pictures to our Qulbix Project with the CPD Torcman Motor http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=64789
These are the last pictures of this setup, because we will change some parts, and go to the next level
We will build the bike more motorbike like (smaler Tyre, Rims, and also change the transmission to get more speed)
Until now, everything works great with this setup, no broken Gear, chain or other parts.
The power is great and it makes a lot of fun this bike with an middle drive Motor.
View attachment 3
I´d like to show new pictures to our Qulbix Project with the CPD Torcman Motor http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=64789
These are the last pictures of this setup, because we will change some parts, and go to the next level
We will build the bike more motorbike like (smaler Tyre, Rims, and also change the transmission to get more speed)
Until now, everything works great with this setup, no broken Gear, chain or other parts.
The power is great and it makes a lot of fun this bike with an middle drive Motor.
View attachment 3
Rix
100 TW
Green Road, really neat build, got any recent video? I think I saw one clip over a year ago somewhere, not certain though.
Similar threads
