Tsdz2 firmware open source adapted to vlcd5, vlcd6 and xh18

w0utje said:
Just went from a xh18 to a vlcd5, now I reflashed to firmware just with the setting: vlcd5, but now I get a flashing error code E.02?
Any clues?
Its the torque sensor, but I didnt do anything to it. Left pedal gives a 13 and the right a 12 if I do the 6x light button press.

I went the same and also get E02, isn't that speed sensor related? Mine works very intermittent, showing 0.0kmh a lot (I bent one pin on the motor-sensor connection so that's probably it)
 
Hello everyone. (I am a long time reader.)
Bought 2 TSDZ2 (36V) about 1 year ago for me and my wife for bicycle-touring in the mountains. (std touring bikes).
This worked very well for us so far.
Just now, I tried this open source firmware on my bike (with std. street settings) and boy, what a difference!
:bigthumb:
Thanks so much to @caisinho, @stancecoke, @marcoq and all the others involved! It was pretty much plug and play (I use std. settings, mostly power assist Eco mode).
I yet have to see, if batterylife is equal or better (-> poor mans FOC), but ridingexperience is great!!
(One big plus for me is that Support seems to be less dependend on battery charge level.)
Does anyone have some experience / measurements how batterylife compares to std. firmware?
 
btslo said:
w0utje said:
Just went from a xh18 to a vlcd5, now I reflashed to firmware just with the setting: vlcd5, but now I get a flashing error code E.02?
Any clues?
Its the torque sensor, but I didnt do anything to it. Left pedal gives a 13 and the right a 12 if I do the 6x light button press.

I went the same and also get E02, isn't that speed sensor related? Mine works very intermittent, showing 0.0kmh a lot (I bent one pin on the motor-sensor connection so that's probably it)

Thats the strange thing, it shows the error at start but speed sensors works flawlesly.... and when i powered it up at with street mode enabled I get no error. But at soon as I change to unrestricted mode I get the E02... but all works fine and after 30 seconds the error is gone so it must be good.
 
Overall I’m a happy user of the TSDZ2 with the OSF. But I keep struggling with the speed sensor. I tested it with different distances from the magnet. It often looks like its working perfectly, till I switch the display off and on. Then its not working After a few minutes of testing it then again looks like its working, but when I switch off and on again the whole ritual repeats. At the moment the distance between the magnet is about 18mm.
Anyone else have this issue? I have a recumbent bike with 20” wheels. Would that make a difference?
 
psl2806 said:
Overall I’m a happy user of the TSDZ2 with the OSF. But I keep struggling with the speed sensor. I tested it with different distances from the magnet. It often looks like its working perfectly, till I switch the display off and on. Then its not working After a few minutes of testing it then again looks like its working, but when I switch off and on again the whole ritual repeats. At the moment the distance between the magnet is about 18mm.
Anyone else have this issue? I have a recumbent bike with 20” wheels. Would that make a difference?

what wheel size is on the display? I remember reading that DATA needs to have size 21 or above to work, maybe try this :mrgreen: .
Also i can put later on my Java frontend parameters and you can try them to see if it helps (48V motor, 52v bat, but this part you can use yours)
 
psl2806 said:
Overall I’m a happy user of the TSDZ2 with the OSF. But I keep struggling with the speed sensor. I tested it with different distances from the magnet. It often looks like its working perfectly, till I switch the display off and on. Then its not working After a few minutes of testing it then again looks like its working, but when I switch off and on again the whole ritual repeats. At the moment the distance between the magnet is about 18mm.
Anyone else have this issue? I have a recumbent bike with 20” wheels. Would that make a difference?

I am kind of new to this, but from what I read, the firmware takes into account what it displayed (i.e. when turning on it shows for example "94,8", which means battery charging state in % - but the display interprets it as "98,8 km/h" for a couple of seconds - and adds respective kilometers to your trip counter.
So, as said, the firmware tries to take this into account and when you start riding it states "0,00 km/h", until it has compensated the milage / kilometers from the charging statement.

Hope this was understandable.....
 
I've just recently purchased 12 x TSDZ2 motors with the VLCD5 display and have successfully flashed and set up my first 2 motors. Want to extend my thanks to all the developers who have worked on the code. I was very disappointed with the performance of the stock TSDZ2 - in short, the motor sucked when compared to a BBS02, but with the new firmware its fantastic. :bigthumb:

Thought I'd share my lessons learned for other Newbys here as I stumbled through some issues that were not clear how to resolve. Also have one item to add to a wish list (or maybe someone knows how to resolve).

First, when initially using the Java tool I was seeing the error indicating it could not access the tool - can't remember the exact phrasing but what it comes down to is that the underlying STVP software can't access the STLink. What I did to rectify this problem is visit the STLink software download page from the manufacturer and install the latest Windows USB drivers. I then opened STVP and checked that it could read the existing settings from the TDSD2 (prior to installing the drivers STVP would display the same tool error). After that, using the Java programming tool worked as expected.

Another quick thing I learned is that the motor's battery should either be disconnected or switched off prior to programming.

Like a few others here, I also found that after flashing the firmware onto the motor, the speedometer would no longer work. I had assumed that setting the wheel diameter in the Java tool would set the same diameter on the display but that's not the case. You have to ensure that the wheel diameter is also set on the display itself so in my case 700c on the display and 2300mm in the firmware.

These motors are being used to retrofit a number of frames our rental shop owns that are currently powered by Bionx kits. Of the 15 Bionx we have, 12 of them no longer work. I appreciate being able to set up a custom profile on the new motors as these bikes are part of a rental fleet. Given that many of our clients are seniors or new to eBikes I've set up the first 2 assist levels to provide a light level of assist in "Power Assist mode" using 50 on Eco and 100 on Tour with more fun on Sport at 250 and Turbo at 500.

On my "wish list" would be the ability to disable the throttle until the bike is moving at a certain speed (e.g. 10kph). Concerned that a user will accidentally press the throttle and have the bike take off on them. :roll:
 
what wheel size is on the display? I remember reading that DATA needs to have size 21 or above to work, maybe try this :mrgreen: .
Also i can put later on my Java frontend parameters and you can try them to see if it helps (48V motor, 52v bat, but this part you can use yours)
[/quote]
Thanks, I’’l try this after the heatwave.
 
I am kind of new to this, but from what I read, the firmware takes into account what it displayed (i.e. when turning on it shows for example "94,8", which means battery charging state in % - but the display interprets it as "98,8 km/h" for a couple of seconds - and adds respective kilometers to your trip counter.
So, as said, the firmware tries to take this into account and when you start riding it states "0,00 km/h", until it has compensated the milage / kilometers from the charging statement.

Hope this was understandable.....

Thanks, that explains the delay. I’ll start measuring how long it takes before the speed is measured.
 
TenMile said:
.......

Like a few others here, I also found that after flashing the firmware onto the motor, the speedometer would no longer work. I had assumed that setting the wheel diameter in the Java tool would set the same diameter on the display but that's not the case. You have to ensure that the wheel diameter is also set on the display itself so in my case 700c on the display and 2300mm in the firmware.......
Just the message before yours explaines endlessolli why the speedometer isn't working. After startup you have to wait some time (about 30 seconds) for compensation of the calculations. If you don't mind correct odometer distance, you can disable odometer compensation in the Java tool.

sources:

EN-Display_operation_manual-TSDZ2-mb.20beta1.A.pdf
"Attention, the display always interprets the data received as a speed and consequently increases the
odometer, even when the bike is stationary.
By enabling the parameter ENABLE_ODOMETER_COMPENSATION in the config.h file (default enabled), it
is possible to recover the kilometers added and not traveled, during this operation the speed displayed
while driving remains at zero
until the kilometers are equalized.
"

EN-Configuration_guide-TSDZ2-mb.20beta1.B.pdf :

"// Odometer compensation
....
Enable the compensation of the kilometers added when viewing the data.
Even when the bike is stationary, all data sent to the display increase the odometer.
By enabling this function, the distance added and not traveled is recovered, during this operation the speed
displayed while driving remains at zero
until the kilometers have been balanced.
"
 
After activating eMTB mode, with mb.20beta1.B, where do I select it on the display? Or are all four modes (eco, tour, speed and turbo) become differing levels of eMTB? The Bosch motor just has one mode which is eMTB mode, the others, eco, tour and turbo (or whatever Bosch calls them) remain the same.
I'm having trouble noticing any difference when I activate it.
 
kallt_kaffe said:
.....
So I decided to take another approach to it and instead of trying to measure voltage flucation under load I instead save the voltage everytime the currrent has been zero (no load) for 2 seconds and use that value and that value only for the battery bars. I no longer use the internal battery resistance value......

This is the changes I've made and the code I'm currently been using for some time now: https://github.com/kalltkaffe/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/commit/8bbea1a8cab498fbb71dad019b786a54929b9447
I have installed your modified version and the battery drop bars are working very well. As you said already.
The 2 seconds I haven't noticed with riding. There are always moments you have to stop pedaling for a short time. And so not, you do it on purpose if you want to know the drop of the Voltage.
Thanks :thumb:
 
ElectricSprocket said:
After activating eMTB mode, with mb.20beta1.B, where do I select it on the display? Or are all four modes (eco, tour, speed and turbo) become differing levels of eMTB? .............
I'm having trouble noticing any difference when I activate it.
Yes, you have 4 levels of support with all the assist modes, so eMTB mode too.
With the Java configurator you can setup eMTB by default. (tab: assistence levels, default is now Power mode)
You can also change the default assist levels with the configurator , if you are not satisfied with the default supportlevels.

If you want to change the assist mode. This is possible in level 3 and choose the disired assist mode with the right E0x code.

display manual
 
Elinx said:
ElectricSprocket said:
After activating eMTB mode, with mb.20beta1.B, where do I select it on the display? Or are all four modes (eco, tour, speed and turbo) become differing levels of eMTB? .............
I'm having trouble noticing any difference when I activate it.
Yes, you have 4 levels of support with all the assist modes, so eMTB mode too.
With the Java configurator you can setup eMTB by default. (tab: assistence levels, default is now Power mode)
You can also change the default assist levels with the configurator , if you are not satisfied with the default supportlevels.

If you want to change the assist mode. This is possible in level 3 and choose the disired assist mode with the right E0x code.

display manual

Thanks Elinx, I actually already had a hot new ini file ready to go which included eMTB on startup. I flashed it earlier today and yes I can feel the difference. Not bad. Eco mode eMTB goes for weaker to less weak, Sport goes from strong to stronger. There's no mode with "weak to strong" or at least I don't see how to change the eMTB behaviour.

Though I have not ridden a Bosch, I think their method is better, which for the Tsdz2 would be Eco, Tour and Turbo as normal "power assist" and Sport mode becomes eMTB mode. That way we don't have to go through hidden menus to change it, which can be quite janky at times. Then maybe adjustability of the levels in eMTB in the java configurator.

Q: Can I change the startup to "Power Assist" so that its permanent from the screen? That would be in Level 0 choose E04?
 
ElectricSprocket said:
.....
... yes I can feel the difference. Not bad. Eco mode eMTB goes for weaker to less weak, Sport goes from strong to stronger. There's no mode with "weak to strong" or at least I don't see how to change the eMTB behaviour.

Though I have not ridden a Bosch, ...... That way we don't have to go through hidden menus to change it, ....

Q: Can I change the startup to "Power Assist" so that its permanent from the screen? That would be in Level 0 choose E04?
I understand what you mean with the Bosch comparision, but in that case you are a bit better off with the 860C version. That has readeable menu structure. imho it isn't so difficult to change support level? Maybe you can tweak the levels a bit for your use.
The stock display's aren't flashable, so we must do with it what we have.

The Java configurator is a better option to understand what you are doing than a button dance on the stock display.
But at least it is possible.

A: I don't understand what you want. imho it is easier to configure by the Java configurator the mode you used most.
 
Elinx said:
ElectricSprocket said:
.....
... yes I can feel the difference. Not bad. Eco mode eMTB goes for weaker to less weak, Sport goes from strong to stronger. There's no mode with "weak to strong" or at least I don't see how to change the eMTB behaviour.

Though I have not ridden a Bosch, ...... That way we don't have to go through hidden menus to change it, ....

Q: Can I change the startup to "Power Assist" so that its permanent from the screen? That would be in Level 0 choose E04?
I understand what you mean with the Bosch comparision, but in that case you are a bit better off with the 860C version. That has readeable menu structure. imho it isn't so difficult to change support level? Maybe you can tweak the levels a bit for your use.
The stock display's aren't flashable, so we must do with it what we have.

The Java configurator is a better option to understand what you are doing than a button dance on the stock display.
But at least it is possible.

A: I don't understand what you want. imho it is easier to configure by the Java configurator the mode you used most.

I asked about changing the default mode back to Power Assist permanently using the screen, as the prongs in the speed sensor plug aren't surviving too well (some are bending) from my frequent flashing (about 6 times sofar). I think I have the rest of the settings pretty good for my style of riding.
 
ElectricSprocket said:
.......

Q: Can I change the startup to "Potwer Assist" so that its permanent from the screen? That would be in Level 0 choose E04?
......

I asked .... as the prongs in the speed sensor plug aren't surviving too well (some are bending) from my frequent flashing .....
OK, I understand now why. I personally never used this to save defaults, but imho you can use level 0 - E04 for that too.

from the manual:
"There is no command to return to the default values, if necessary, just turn off and on again.
It is possible to save the current settings as default, at 0-OFF level, set E04-SAVE DEFAULT, light button 2 + 2 + 2 times.
It will also be used to save the sensor calibration values (to be done)."
 
E-bike lover said:
...which the maximum speed is limited to 30km/h only when offroad mode is applied.
If you want to edit a file you can do this inside config.h
Make a copy of config_original.h and edit the values. Save as: config.h

But imho it is easier to use the Java configurator
You can do this with the configurator, so you don't need to change FW.
Basic settings:
Set the speed on 30km/h
speed.jpg
uncheck speed from display
displayspeed.jpg
Activate street mode on startup
streetmode.jpg
Assistance settings:
Choose the desired speed on street mode
streetlimit.jpg

After startup you speed is limited to streetmode speed
For Offroad speed:
Select on display level 1 (eco)
Push 2x light button (E02)

Current setting also in basic settings:
ampsetting.jpg
 
hey, just a quick question.

if i set current limit and watt limit, wich one will be considered? i assume the one that triggers first, correct?
also do i need to change the Amp setting in the Hidden menue on VLCD5, or will the value in the hidden menue just be ignored?

thanks!
 
matschi140 said:
...
...current limit and watt limit,.... i assume the one that triggers first, correct?
also do i need to change the Amp setting in the Hidden menue on VLCD5, or will the value in the hidden menue just be ignored?....
Yes, it depends of your settings ofcourse, but mostly with full battery the "W" limit will be first and with low battery the "A" limit
Yes, the display settings will be ignored, imho only speed can be changed with display. But..... is there a functional hidden menu after flashing OSF?
 
Yes there is, you can enter it like in stock fw with holding both buttons (power and light) sone seconds and then scroll through the me Display functions ..

also can you explain me what the MTB Mode is? i know how to enter it but i can not feel any difference to the Stock power assist?!

in power assist mode the power should be the same through the complete battery as it should increase the amps as the voltage is falling up to the set max amps, correct?
 
matschi140 said:
....
also can you explain me what the MTB Mode is? ...

in power assist mode the power should be the same through the complete battery as it should increase the amps as the voltage is falling up to the set max amps, correct?
I don't use eMTB, because I have a road bike and only use power mode, but the difference between de modes are the sensors that will be used for calculating the support.

POWER proportional to the power (use of cadence and torque)
TORQUE proportional to the torque of the axle (use of torque, no cadence)
EMTB ASSIST progressive support to the torque of the axle (use of torque, no cadence)
CADENCE support by pedal movement (use of cadence, no torque)

As you can see torque and eMTB mode calculates the support with the torque sensor only.
The difference is the more dynamic range of eMTB, what can be usefull with varied terrain conditions what you can have with off road bikling.

Amps and Voltages has nothing to do with Power assist mode, but with the maximum possible electrical power setting for the motor.
If you setup these values (Watt and Amp) too high you motor will be too hot and will loose permanent power. (burned motor)
That is why there is adviced to install temperature mods. like heatconductive pads and temperature sensor.
If you don't have temperature mods the advice is to keep the current (Amps) low as possible. This you can do with that setting.
 
matschi140 said:
also can you explain me what the MTB Mode is? i know how to enter it but i can not feel any difference to the Stock power assist?!

It is hard to notice the difference. Power Assist increases linearly with pedal force, eMTB mode has assist increasing exponentially with pedal force. But the exponential rise doesn't go very far. Try pedalling lightly, then apply more pressure to the pedals, eMTB mode is supposed to give a more forceful response which isn't there in Power Assist mode.
 
If you want the best response from a standstill with the TSDZ2 and the OSF, you need to be using a mode that is purely torque sensor based. So this could be Torque mode or eMTB mode.

Using pedal power (torque * cadence) to calculate motor current results in the current being zero amps until the cadence sensor is spinning fast enough to give an output. It makes the system very sluggish off the line.
 
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