TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

[casainho]

Assist levels and their factors are not directly comparable between different bikes, especially if you haven't calibrated the torque sensor. Without calibration they depend on individual torque sensor readings which we know to differ wildly between motors. After calibration the gear ratio and wheel size also affect how the motor output is related to actually riding the bike. I have noticed that after calibration, for me there's no point to go higher than ~0.600 assist factor as beyond that I'm kind of only losing sensitivity of the torque control but not getting any more power out of the motor.

That is totally correct!!

The correct way to compare between users is first calibrate the torque sensor and then see how much human power the rider provides on the pedals!! I can provide between 100 to 300 watts of human power and at assist level of 8 (0.049 factor), the motor will use 15 amps -- 300 * 0.049 = 14.7 amps. At startups I can provide like 600 watts or more of human power.

As a matter of comparison, I am being start running and on last 12 kms, my average human power calculated by my watch is about 175 watts, this values makes sense comparing to the values shown on my 860C display:

My average human power while running:

I watch human watts and motor watts all the time, my average watts on a flat ride is between 30 and 100 human watts, the highest I can make or pedal is 200 Watts for a very short amount of time, the highest motor watts I see is 850. That's why on a handcycle if you're not Mr. Muscle you need such high settings to enjoy the ride. My handcycle with 3 batteries on it so that I can ride over 100 miles at one time, wieghts 100 pounds and after the China virus I gained 30 pounds so I weigh 190 now plus my backpack full of water and tools. So I'm asking the TSDZ2 to move 300 pounds at high speeds and up and down Hills. And that's the reason I started looking into liquid cooling, just too much to ask from a TSDZ2. I love the torque sensor and the OSF on these Motors and that's why I'm sticking with it and just making things work. They are also so much smaller & lighter than the Bafang's. The weight of the bafang isn't any more compared to what all my cooling system adds probably pretty close.

I also gained weight due to the lockdown and I am now on pre diabetes -- luckily I can run and it is very good to loose fat. And doing cycling on EBike for recovery on the days after the runs, it is a very good complement.

See that for 30W of human power, at cadence of 70, the torque sensor must only measure 2.4 kgs and for 100W, it will need to measure 8kgs. I think this are very low values, I don't think the torque sensor has good sensitivity bellow the 10kgs (125watts at 70 cadence) - I would say the torque sensor on TSDZ2 must be cheap and so we should expect only coarse measures. I understand that muscles at arms are like 3 or 4 times smaller than legs muscles and because of this, I do not expect TSDZ2 torque sensor to be good for hand cycles.

 

[Mr.Flibble]

My 860c display reads 1.2 vdc higher than actual battery voltage at a high level SOC. The error decreases to 1 vdc when the battery is at 30% SOC. My assumption is that this is a hardware issue. BTW, my battery is a 52v so yes, I know the displays says "Run" at 59.5V!

Can someone familiar with the workings of an 860c tell me if this is likely a hardware issue or can OSF play into it?

display with wrong voltage - Copy.jpg

actual voltage - Copy.jpg

It's a fault with the controller board, mine did it with the orignal firmware and does it with the osf one too.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

Assist levels and their factors are not directly comparable between different bikes, especially if you haven't calibrated the torque sensor. Without calibration they depend on individual torque sensor readings which we know to differ wildly between motors. After calibration the gear ratio and wheel size also affect how the motor output is related to actually riding the bike. I have noticed that after calibration, for me there's no point to go higher than ~0.600 assist factor as beyond that I'm kind of only losing sensitivity of the torque control but not getting any more power out of the motor.

That is totally correct!!

The correct way to compare between users is first calibrate the torque sensor and then see how much human power the rider provides on the pedals!! I can provide between 100 to 300 watts of human power and at assist level of 8 (0.049 factor), the motor will use 15 amps -- 300 * 0.049 = 14.7 amps. At startups I can provide like 600 watts or more of human power.

As a matter of comparison, I am being start running and on last 12 kms, my average human power calculated by my watch is about 175 watts, this values makes sense comparing to the values shown on my 860C display:

My average human power while running:

I watch human watts and motor watts all the time, my average watts on a flat ride is between 30 and 100 human watts, the highest I can make or pedal is 200 Watts for a very short amount of time, the highest motor watts I see is 850. That's why on a handcycle if you're not Mr. Muscle you need such high settings to enjoy the ride. My handcycle with 3 batteries on it so that I can ride over 100 miles at one time, wieghts 100 pounds and after the China virus I gained 30 pounds so I weigh 190 now plus my backpack full of water and tools. So I'm asking the TSDZ2 to move 300 pounds at high speeds and up and down Hills. And that's the reason I started looking into liquid cooling, just too much to ask from a TSDZ2. I love the torque sensor and the OSF on these Motors and that's why I'm sticking with it and just making things work. They are also so much smaller & lighter than the Bafang's. The weight of the bafang isn't any more compared to what all my cooling system adds probably pretty close.

I also gained weight due to the lockdown and I am now on pre diabetes -- luckily I can run and it is very good to loose fat. And doing cycling on EBike for recovery on the days after the runs, it is a very good complement.

See that for 30W of human power, at cadence of 70, the torque sensor must only measure 2.4 kgs and for 100W, it will need to measure 8kgs. I think this are very low values, I don't think the torque sensor has good sensitivity bellow the 10kgs (125watts at 70 cadence) - I would say the torque sensor on TSDZ2 must be cheap and so we should expect only coarse measures. I understand that muscles at arms are like 3 or 4 times smaller than legs muscles and because of this, I do not expect TSDZ2 torque sensor to be good for hand cycles.

Hi Cassiho, I appreciate all the work that you have done!
I finally figured out what to turn up and what to turn down to get V1 to work for me and others with much weaker arms than a normal person has. Everyone knows it's easy to get fat and hard to get thin its just a fact of live we I'll have to live with, that I wish we didn't have to live with.

There's 2 things with the current version 1 that I would really like to have improved if possible. When you pull back to brake immediately after pedaling there's a high rate of resistance no matter where I put the setting and it doesn't goaway until you move the cranks back forward a half inch after I've stopped pedaling, then the resistance goes away. But in a panic situation and you don't remember you have to go forward again to pull back to get brakes to work it is scary. That's the way it was back in version 19 and when version 20 came out it fixed that. Also when taking off from a dead stop it would be nice to have a little more power and a lot less shake & shutter to get moving.


Thanks, Jeff

 

[Nfer]

Assist levels and their factors are not directly comparable between different bikes, especially if you haven't calibrated the torque sensor. Without calibration they depend on individual torque sensor readings which we know to differ wildly between motors. After calibration the gear ratio and wheel size also affect how the motor output is related to actually riding the bike. I have noticed that after calibration, for me there's no point to go higher than ~0.600 assist factor as beyond that I'm kind of only losing sensitivity of the torque control but not getting any more power out of the motor.

Thanks, good to know. I find some of the higher assist levels do make a difference in speed and acceleration 15-16-17 with default settings) . I have 20 inch wheels, so perhaps that could be a difference? I have also calibrated the torque sensor..

Hopefully unrelated to setting assist too high over time (only done about 50 miles) I am hearing slight clicks as the bike gets going. Nothing too loud. It sounds a bit like spokes creaking or a piece of material flapping in the spokes. It stops once the motor is up to speed, and doesn't happen if cycling with the motor off. Is this normal or should I be concerned?

Tight the silver ring at the bottom bracket with the special tool included with the kit. You only have to take the pedal out to do it, keeping the crank in place

 

[Alphonse]

My 860c display reads 1.2 vdc higher than actual battery voltage at a high level SOC. The error decreases to 1 vdc when the battery is at 30% SOC. My assumption is that this is a hardware issue. BTW, my battery is a 52v so yes, I know the displays says "Run" at 59.5V!

Can someone familiar with the workings of an 860c tell me if this is likely a hardware issue or can OSF play into it?

display with wrong voltage - Copy.jpg

actual voltage - Copy.jpg

It's a fault with the controller board, mine did it with the orignal firmware and does it with the osf one too.

Need to be sure what you are talking about here. When you say it is the controller board, do you mean the motor controller or the display board?

 

[vshitikov]

My 860c display reads 1.2 vdc higher than actual battery voltage at a high level SOC. The error decreases to 1 vdc when the battery is at 30% SOC. My assumption is that this is a hardware issue. BTW, my battery is a 52v so yes, I know the displays says "Run" at 59.5V!

Can someone familiar with the workings of an 860c tell me if this is likely a hardware issue or can OSF play into it?

display with wrong voltage - Copy.jpg

actual voltage - Copy.jpg

It's a fault with the controller board, mine did it with the orignal firmware and does it with the osf one too.

Need to be sure what you are talking about here. When you say it is the controller board, do you mean the motor controller or the display board?

None of it is a fault: 1 volt over 36V is ~3% of error - this is absolutely normal for the uncalibrated systems. The internal reference of the ADC that is used to measure voltage is not trimmed better than 5%. So one volt discrepancy between two measurement systems is completely normal.

 

[jeff.page.rides]

I was just informed that if you use the throttle it doesn't matter what setting you use, it has the same amount of power. I've never used a throttle so I wouldn't know for sure. If it's true that using the throttle is the same no matter what setting you're in, that means you need to be very careful of how much you use the throttle or you're gonna burn it up in every setting.
Is this true, is this the way the throttle works?
If so it would be great to have settings that affect how much power the throttle is using!
Please reply what your experience with the throttle is?

Below is the way I thought the Throttle works.
I drove over to electrifybike.com this afternoon and we programed 2 handcycles with these newest settings for the National Ability Center, that have throttles on them. Electrify loves the new setting so much, they are much more usable for a HANDCYCLE. We discussed what we could do to be able to use these awesome settings and still not meltdown the TSDZ2 when pedaling and when using the throttle. What we came up with was that you don't use the throttle for more than a few feet at a time to get threw a tough spot, then you can use level 1-5. But if you're using it to get up a Hill then it has to be in level 1 if hot outside or level 2 if its cool outside, otherwise, it'll fry the motor. When you're on a handcycle the Motors right in front of your face so signs that it's too hot are very easy to recognize. If it starts to get louder it's too hot, if you touch it and can feel that it's hot it's too hot. We Suggest you use the settings with some common sense and your motor should last a long time. My fist motor has over 5000 miles on it. The newer motor has over 2500 miles. If you turn it up with the throttle or turn it up to much when it's hot outside even if you're pedaling it can overheat and you could fry it.
So just use common sense, work a little harder and your motor should last a long time!

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Alphonse]

My 860c display reads 1.2 vdc higher than actual battery voltage at a high level SOC. The error decreases to 1 vdc when the battery is at 30% SOC. My assumption is that this is a hardware issue. BTW, my battery is a 52v so yes, I know the displays says "Run" at 59.5V!

Can someone familiar with the workings of an 860c tell me if this is likely a hardware issue or can OSF play into it?

display with wrong voltage - Copy.jpg

actual voltage - Copy.jpg

It's a fault with the controller board, mine did it with the orignal firmware and does it with the osf one too.

Need to be sure what you are talking about here. When you say it is the controller board, do you mean the motor controller or the display board?

None of it is a fault: 1 volt over 36V is ~3% of error - this is absolutely normal for the uncalibrated systems. The internal reference of the ADC that is used to measure voltage is not trimmed better than 5%. So one volt discrepancy between two measurement systems is completely normal.

@vshitikov, Looks like you have explored the details of the 860C and I thank you for the feedback on this issue.

Do you know how this error affects the Display's functions and outputs? In other words, doesn't the voltage error cascade into any computed values that contain voltage, such as: Assist power level, Battery SOC, desired battery cutoff point, etc. Should one compensate appropriately?

Another way of asking this question is, for discussions sake and my own curiosity, what parameters are computed in the Display vs. computed in the Motor Controller? In other words, what data is transmitted to the display on the UART wires? Is there a protocol for the UART published somewhere?

 

[vshitikov]

It's a fault with the controller board, mine did it with the orignal firmware and does it with the osf one too.

Need to be sure what you are talking about here. When you say it is the controller board, do you mean the motor controller or the display board?

None of it is a fault: 1 volt over 36V is ~3% of error - this is absolutely normal for the uncalibrated systems. The internal reference of the ADC that is used to measure voltage is not trimmed better than 5%. So one volt discrepancy between two measurement systems is completely normal.

@vshitikov, Looks like you have explored the details of the 860C and I thank you for the feedback on this issue.

Do you know how this error affects the Display's functions and outputs? In other words, doesn't the voltage error cascade into any computed values that contain voltage, such as: Assist power level, Battery SOC, desired battery cutoff point, etc. Should one compensate appropriately?

Another way of asking this question is, for discussions sake and my own curiosity, what parameters are computed in the Display vs. computed in the Motor Controller? In other words, what data is transmitted to the display on the UART wires? Is there a protocol for the UART published somewhere?

The voltage is measured by the display and soc I guess. and everything else is sent by the controller. There is no protocol published but casainho has his code open so you can easily extract it from there. Expect error of 3 to 5 percent to those values depending on your chip and température . But this does not affect any of the functionality at all. In fact those values are shown to you just for the debugging purpose. What you should only note is the fully charged battery voltage. This voltage is used to reset the soc counter to 100% once you charged your battery. Another thing is put your cutoff voltage to 2.9v per cell. For example 29v for 10S 36V battery. This things doesn't have to be precise and plus minus one volt precision is enough.

 

[casainho]

The voltage is measured by the display and soc I guess. and everything else is sent by the controller. There is no protocol published but casainho has his code open so you can easily extract it from there. Expect error of 3 to 5 percent to those values depending on your chip and température . But this does not affect any of the functionality at all. In fact those values are shown to you just for the debugging purpose. What you should only note is the fully charged battery voltage. This voltage is used to reset the soc counter to 100% once you charged your battery. Another thing is put your cutoff voltage to 2.9v per cell. For example 29v for 10S 36V battery. This things doesn't have to be precise and plus minus one volt precision is enough.

Voltage is measures on the motor controller and sent to display. And yes, it is not critical.

 

[Alphonse]

The voltage is measured by the display and soc I guess. and everything else is sent by the controller. There is no protocol published but casainho has his code open so you can easily extract it from there. Expect error of 3 to 5 percent to those values depending on your chip and température . But this does not affect any of the functionality at all. In fact those values are shown to you just for the debugging purpose. What you should only note is the fully charged battery voltage. This voltage is used to reset the soc counter to 100% once you charged your battery. Another thing is put your cutoff voltage to 2.9v per cell. For example 29v for 10S 36V battery. This things doesn't have to be precise and plus minus one volt precision is enough.

Voltage is measures on the motor controller and sent to display. And yes, it is not critical.

@casainho, Thank you for your response. Yes, I did find the actual battery voltage being sent to the display. I measured it at the green connector pins that feed the 860C. Unfortunately my 860C then adds 1.2 vdc to that. So my 860C is showing a voltage that is high by a significant amount.

Could you share what parameters are computed in the Display vs. computed in the Motor Controller? In other words, what data is transmitted to the display on the UART wires? Is there a protocol for the UART published somewhere that you could lead me to?

Thanks again for all your work on this and your help is very much appreciated.

 

[casainho]

The voltage is measured by the display and soc I guess. and everything else is sent by the controller. There is no protocol published but casainho has his code open so you can easily extract it from there. Expect error of 3 to 5 percent to those values depending on your chip and température . But this does not affect any of the functionality at all. In fact those values are shown to you just for the debugging purpose. What you should only note is the fully charged battery voltage. This voltage is used to reset the soc counter to 100% once you charged your battery. Another thing is put your cutoff voltage to 2.9v per cell. For example 29v for 10S 36V battery. This things doesn't have to be precise and plus minus one volt precision is enough.

Voltage is measures on the motor controller and sent to display. And yes, it is not critical.

@casainho, Thank you for your response. Yes, I did find the actual battery voltage being sent to the display. I measured it at the green connector pins that feed the 860C. Unfortunately my 860C then adds 1.2 vdc to that. So my 860C is showing a voltage that is high by a significant amount.

Could you share what parameters are computed in the Display vs. computed in the Motor Controller? In other words, what data is transmitted to the display on the UART wires? Is there a protocol for the UART published somewhere that you could lead me to?

Thanks again for all your work on this and your help is very much appreciated.

On the display is calculated the battery SOC and battery resistance.

The protocol is on the source code of the firmware (as others told you already) you get it on the GitHub since this is a fully OpenSource project. If you are interested in this, means you are a developer and so you should understand the source code.

 

[Alphonse]

The voltage is measured by the display and soc I guess. and everything else is sent by the controller. There is no protocol published but casainho has his code open so you can easily extract it from there. Expect error of 3 to 5 percent to those values depending on your chip and température . But this does not affect any of the functionality at all. In fact those values are shown to you just for the debugging purpose. What you should only note is the fully charged battery voltage. This voltage is used to reset the soc counter to 100% once you charged your battery. Another thing is put your cutoff voltage to 2.9v per cell. For example 29v for 10S 36V battery. This things doesn't have to be precise and plus minus one volt precision is enough.

Voltage is measures on the motor controller and sent to display. And yes, it is not critical.

@casainho, Thank you for your response. Yes, I did find the actual battery voltage being sent to the display. I measured it at the green connector pins that feed the 860C. Unfortunately my 860C then adds 1.2 vdc to that. So my 860C is showing a voltage that is high by a significant amount.

Could you share what parameters are computed in the Display vs. computed in the Motor Controller? In other words, what data is transmitted to the display on the UART wires? Is there a protocol for the UART published somewhere that you could lead me to?

Thanks again for all your work on this and your help is very much appreciated.

On the display is calculated the battery SOC and battery resistance.

The protocol is on the source code of the firmware (as others told you already) you get it on the GitHub since this is a fully OpenSource project. If you are interested in this, means you are a developer and so you should understand the source code.

No, I am not developer. My interest is simply making my significant expenditure I have made work properly. It appears my questions have offended you and I apologize for that.

So for the time being I am trying to figure out if I should compensate for the elevated voltage value in the settings. Secondarily, I am trying to better understand the source of the voltage measurement error and the possibility of correcting it with a hardware change.

Sincere thanks for all the work you have done on the OSF.

 

[ilu]

I've noticed the same voltage difference with SW102 display, it shows the voltage to be consistently 1.0V higher than my battery's bluetooth BMS, and if I remember correctly the difference does not change throughout the 42 to 58 volts range of the 14S battery. I don't think this is a problem, but I do want to keep the low cut-off at 3.0V (and thus 42.0V) so that I'm sure it doesn't go below 2.9V. This is to prolong the battery life, I also use a charger that stops and balances the cells at ~90%. And usually I charge the battery before even going near empty.

 

[moriwaky]

Hi! First 3 rides with this amazing firmware. I am super happy. And I want to give thanks to Casainho and the other for your job. THANKSSSS.

I come from a BBSHD and I don´t miss anything from that motor even the power is very razonable. Just one thing I can´t setup correctly. The speed and the trip distance seem to be off by a little If I play with the wheel size I can Adjust or the speed or the trip distance but checking with my garming I can´t setup both perfectly. is just me or is a bug in the system I´m not aware? With my bafang is nearly perfect in routes of more than 50 km just differs a few hundred meters. thanks again for your job.

 

[mallesepp]

Hi! First 3 rides with this amazing firmware. I am super happy. And I want to give thanks to Casainho and the other for your job. THANKSSSS.

I come from a BBSHD and I don´t miss anything from that motor even the power is very razonable. Just one thing I can´t setup correctly. The speed and the trip distance seem to be off by a little If I play with the wheel size I can Adjust or the speed or the trip distance but checking with my garming I can´t setup both perfectly. is just me or is a bug in the system I´m not aware? With my bafang is nearly perfect in routes of more than 50 km just differs a few hundred meters. thanks again for your job.

There is a simple solution to this. I adjust the wheel circumference until it matches the GPS value! Why ponder it!

 

[jtsavola]

Evenings are coming darker also here in the north. Does anyone have solution how to get lights working without loosing motor power?

 

[vshitikov]

Evenings are coming darker also here in the north. Does anyone have solution how to get lights working without loosing motor power?

what was the problem exactly? I use original tongsheng lights kit installed on my bike with the FW 0.8.0 and it works just fine.

 

[jtsavola]

Evenings are coming darker also here in the north. Does anyone have solution how to get lights working without loosing motor power?

what was the problem exactly? I use original tongsheng lights kit installed on my bike with the FW 0.8.0 and it works just fine.

If I switch lights on and start pedaling motor will not assist. When I switch lights off motor starts working. And if I'm pedaling and switch lights on asists exist untill I stop pedaling. When pedaling again motor won't assist untill I switch lights off. I have installed TSDZ2-v1.0.0 sw version and 860c display v1.0.0 sw version

 

[vshitikov]

Evenings are coming darker also here in the north. Does anyone have solution how to get lights working without loosing motor power?

what was the problem exactly? I use original tongsheng lights kit installed on my bike with the FW 0.8.0 and it works just fine.

If I switch lights on and start pedaling motor will not assist. When I switch lights off motor starts working. And if I'm pedaling and switch lights on asists exist untill I stop pedaling. When pedaling again motor won't assist untill I switch lights off. I have installed TSDZ2-v1.0.0 sw version and 860c display v1.0.0 sw version

What are your lights? Is it the official 6v kit. Did it work for you with the previous versions?

 

[jtsavola]

Evenings are coming darker also here in the north. Does anyone have solution how to get lights working without loosing motor power?

what was the problem exactly? I use original tongsheng lights kit installed on my bike with the FW 0.8.0 and it works just fine.

If I switch lights on and start pedaling motor will not assist. When I switch lights off motor starts working. And if I'm pedaling and switch lights on asists exist untill I stop pedaling. When pedaling again motor won't assist untill I switch lights off. I have installed TSDZ2-v1.0.0 sw version and 860c display v1.0.0 sw version

What are your lights? Is it the official 6v kit. Did it work for you with the previous versions?

Frontlight is Herrmans MR8E (3,3W, 0,75A max) and backlights are three pcs 5mm red leds with resistor. Lights worked without problems when I had TSDZ2 standard software

 

[jeff.page.rides]

I appreciate all the work that everyone has done!

I finally figured out what to turn up and what to turn down to get V1 to work for me and others with much weaker arms than a normal person has.

There are 3 things with the current Version One that would really be a big improvement.

1 When you pull back to brake immediately after pedaling there's a high rate of resistance no matter where I put the setting and it doesn't go away until you move the cranks back forward a half-inch after I've stopped pedaling, then the resistance goes away. But in a panic situation and you don't remember you have to go forward again before you pull back again to get brakes to work, and it is scary, but luckily no crashes yet. That's the way it was back in version 19 and when version 20 came out it fixed that. If someone can look into this and then make the changes in V20 to V1 that would be awesome.

2 Also when taking off from a dead stop it would be nice to have a little more power and a lot less shake & shutter to get moving.

3 START UP BOOST, is switched disable is enable. It would be nice to have this fixed.

Thanks, Jeff

 

[bennyschudo]

After a long break i finaly got mine converted

with orig firmware i got a problem that the motor was overshooting a bit - cranking my pedal after i stopped peddaling

After flashing Motor and the 850c to 1.0.0 this got worse. It allmost threw me of the bike first time i tried it 1/4 turn with full motor power. Freespin is kind of locked for a few secounds after stopping and there is so much resistance that its impossible to ride without assistance (resistance was there before fw mod but not that much).

may this be a mechanical problem (clutch maybe) ? Resistance it there even if motor is off

Hope someone can help me

 

[cityboy19]

what was the problem exactly? I use original tongsheng lights kit installed on my bike with the FW 0.8.0 and it works just fine.

If I switch lights on and start pedaling motor will not assist. When I switch lights off motor starts working. And if I'm pedaling and switch lights on asists exist untill I stop pedaling. When pedaling again motor won't assist untill I switch lights off. I have installed TSDZ2-v1.0.0 sw version and 860c display v1.0.0 sw version

What are your lights? Is it the official 6v kit. Did it work for you with the previous versions?

Frontlight is Herrmans MR8E (3,3W, 0,75A max) and backlights are three pcs 5mm red leds with resistor. Lights worked without problems when I had TSDZ2 standard software

I have the same. The current of my lamp is 280-290mA

 

[vshitikov]

If I switch lights on and start pedaling motor will not assist. When I switch lights off motor starts working. And if I'm pedaling and switch lights on asists exist untill I stop pedaling. When pedaling again motor won't assist untill I switch lights off. I have installed TSDZ2-v1.0.0 sw version and 860c display v1.0.0 sw version

What are your lights? Is it the official 6v kit. Did it work for you with the previous versions?

Frontlight is Herrmans MR8E (3,3W, 0,75A max) and backlights are three pcs 5mm red leds with resistor. Lights worked without problems when I had TSDZ2 standard software

I have the same. The current of my lamp is 280-290mA

I think it's a version 1.0.0 bug. Someone on github proposed a fix but I'm not sure it fixes it for everyone.