larsb
1 MW
What machine and CF+nylon wire do you use?
i checked out CF+nylon 3d-printing on google, really interesting!!
i checked out CF+nylon 3d-printing on google, really interesting!!
Idiots guide to rewinding Revolt 120 pro
- Thread starter larsb
- Start date
Wheazel
10 kW
I use 4 different printers. And a variety of plastic materials.
But I guess 75% is regular pla printing.
The nylon+continuous fiber is patented by markforged.
As far as I know they are exclusive with that tech for the moment.
The software is a closed environment (but pretty nice imo), and there are no alternatives to the markforged brand materials that I know of.
Probably only a matter of time.
But I guess 75% is regular pla printing.
The nylon+continuous fiber is patented by markforged.
As far as I know they are exclusive with that tech for the moment.
The software is a closed environment (but pretty nice imo), and there are no alternatives to the markforged brand materials that I know of.
Probably only a matter of time.
larsb
1 MW
The markforged printers seem to be pro stuff.. I wonder when those technologies will be for the average user.
Not a lot of winding going on here.. Did 24 km of running yesterday so i am plenty tired.
Not a lot of winding going on here.. Did 24 km of running yesterday so i am plenty tired.
larsb
1 MW
Santa came with some presents.. Thanks wheazel!
Wedges helped in the winding and geometry is quite good though they will be even better with a slight angle to become thinner on the tip, handles and longer length. I'll update them for tomorrow.
5 down!
I must check for shorts tomorrow as i am tough on the wire when shaping it.
Wedges helped in the winding and geometry is quite good though they will be even better with a slight angle to become thinner on the tip, handles and longer length. I'll update them for tomorrow.
5 down!
I must check for shorts tomorrow as i am tough on the wire when shaping it.
Harold in CR
100 kW
Project is looking good. Like the wedges. Nice job on those also.
macribs
10 MW
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2014
- Messages
- 3,702
Great work from wheazel.
Those wedges are solid, not hollow? Could you possible file down the tip to make it taper to the end to fit your needs better? Guessing a little material off will go along way and not reduce the structure of the wedges too much.
Those wedges are solid, not hollow? Could you possible file down the tip to make it taper to the end to fit your needs better? Guessing a little material off will go along way and not reduce the structure of the wedges too much.
Wheazel
10 kW
The pink ones are printed solid to handle filing and reshaping.
The purple ones are not.
Btw, will there be a problem when you reach the last tooth?
When there are neighboring teeth with wire from both sides?
The purple ones are not.
Btw, will there be a problem when you reach the last tooth?
When there are neighboring teeth with wire from both sides?
larsb
1 MW
Last coil will likely be the toughest and most of the turns will have to be formed without use of wedges or pliers so lots of poking and nudging 
The carbon prop i ordered on ebay for the thin work never showed up and it will be too late now to order a new one. It'll work anyway!
The carbon prop i ordered on ebay for the thin work never showed up and it will be too late now to order a new one. It'll work anyway!
larsb
1 MW
I updated the wedges so they should be nicer to work with: draft angle on lever side, pointy wedge and rounder handle
View attachment wedges ver3.zip
View attachment wedges ver3.zip
larsb
1 MW
I have started to get twitching/cutoffs on my bike with the other revolt motor. It seems to be current related since it is under load / higher throttle
I suspect hall interference or hall errors causing bad signals so i started to assemble the RMC22 rotary commutation encoder for a trial. If it works out then i'll post a guide how to use it.
Winding is paused a while until i have a functioning bike again.
I suspect hall interference or hall errors causing bad signals so i started to assemble the RMC22 rotary commutation encoder for a trial. If it works out then i'll post a guide how to use it.
Winding is paused a while until i have a functioning bike again.
larsb
1 MW
Sensor is hooked up. Need some fittings to hold it in correct position.
The contacts are tiny - i don't know if the solder joints are ok as they are meant for crimping by a microminiature crimper
The contacts are tiny - i don't know if the solder joints are ok as they are meant for crimping by a microminiature crimper
larsb
1 MW
Sensor didn't work.. I have asked renishaw if the rmc22 encoder signals will substitute hall sensor signals straight off just to be sure, but I probably broke or shorted one of the connections since the soldering was so difficult. Impossible to tell now as i filled the sensor with silicone rubber 
EDIT: Sheet says commutation signals are "+/-24mA output drive". Does that mean signal goes from +5V to -5V? I guess the controller expects 0V / +5V ?
View attachment Data-sheet-RMC22-magnetic-encoder (5).pdf
I guess someone with a little more skills in electronics would know..
I have seen this encoder discussed before here at ES but with no additional data as it was not easy to purchase it then.
EDIT: Sheet says commutation signals are "+/-24mA output drive". Does that mean signal goes from +5V to -5V? I guess the controller expects 0V / +5V ?
View attachment Data-sheet-RMC22-magnetic-encoder (5).pdf
I guess someone with a little more skills in electronics would know..
I have seen this encoder discussed before here at ES but with no additional data as it was not easy to purchase it then.
larsb
1 MW
I received reply from Renishaw:
"The output from RMC22 are digital signals with voltage swing from GND to Vdd."
the encoder should work as a straight replacement for hall sensors. I must have gotten some of the wires damaged in the connections.. I have ordered a new encoder and precrimped leads to avoid any soldering of these tiny crimp contacts.
"The output from RMC22 are digital signals with voltage swing from GND to Vdd."
the encoder should work as a straight replacement for hall sensors. I must have gotten some of the wires damaged in the connections.. I have ordered a new encoder and precrimped leads to avoid any soldering of these tiny crimp contacts.
Wheazel
10 kW
larsb said:
Good investigation work, and good luck with the new sensor.
Do you have any picture of your bike with the motor that is acting up?
RobertC
1 W
How much labor do you estimate this will be in total for the rewind? Not counting building tools, and waiting for replacement sensors, mail, etc..
Eagerly awaiting news about the potential of this motor properly built!
Thanks for the effort. It should be educational for many.
Eagerly awaiting news about the potential of this motor properly built!
Thanks for the effort. It should be educational for many.
larsb
1 MW
I guess effective time for me will be something like this:
Disassemble 1
Strip old wire 1
Stator prep 3
Winding 12x1.5
Halls 2
Phase leads connection and coil joining, connectors 4
Assemble 1
Total 30hrs
That seems like a lot but i am a slow builder normally and also first time winder.
If you thought "heck, this guy can't even solder a cable" then here's a size reference for the encoder cables. Thats 20 of them in the bag. 8)
Disassemble 1
Strip old wire 1
Stator prep 3
Winding 12x1.5
Halls 2
Phase leads connection and coil joining, connectors 4
Assemble 1
Total 30hrs
That seems like a lot but i am a slow builder normally and also first time winder.
If you thought "heck, this guy can't even solder a cable" then here's a size reference for the encoder cables. Thats 20 of them in the bag. 8)
Wheazel
10 kW
Hmm 30h, that's only a little over 1 day,
and since you have done so much already maybe we can see a running motor by tomorrow or Saturday?
On a serious note I can imagine the winding sessions to be rough.
But me and many others are clearly looking forward to see the results.
and since you have done so much already maybe we can see a running motor by tomorrow or Saturday?
On a serious note I can imagine the winding sessions to be rough.
But me and many others are clearly looking forward to see the results.
larsb
1 MW
Actually the windings aren't that tough, only time consuming. I have a birthday party for my youngest to prepare this weekend and visits from the grandparents. No winding going on at this adress for some days..
larsb
1 MW
I have decided to try a sensor mount outside the motor since hall signals are distorted, that's a reason for the stalling i get when riding:
I've read several times that the revolt motors are hard to drive.. if signals look like this, no wonder it's hard!
The new motor mount got a slot for the sensor so i can fine-tune the position. It turned out half-ok even though my cutting tool in the mill was really dull. The small piece is the slider for the hall sensors that will be fitted towards the motor.
I've read several times that the revolt motors are hard to drive.. if signals look like this, no wonder it's hard!
The new motor mount got a slot for the sensor so i can fine-tune the position. It turned out half-ok even though my cutting tool in the mill was really dull. The small piece is the slider for the hall sensors that will be fitted towards the motor.
Wheazel
10 kW
Very nice, do you have pictures of your existing bike(s) somewhere?
larsb
1 MW
Here's one. Kona sscchtinky -04 with some extras
Not the best camera though
Not the best camera though
larsb
1 MW
Halfway!
Wheazel
10 kW
larsb said:Here's one. Kona sscchtinky -04 with some extras
Not the best camera though
Nice ride, how is it set up?
How do you ride it?
larsb
1 MW
Set-up? What do you mean?
I ride it 50km total each day to/from work. It's a commuter, so even though the motor does not go well it sort of works. It's quite annoying having to baby the throttle all the time and still get stalling in every acceleration and uphill.
I REALLY hope the wind turns out OK. Otherwise i think i'll have to buy another motor - or stop the ebiking. This is taking too much energy. I'd love to work with a quality motor instead of this piece of sh*t.
I ride it 50km total each day to/from work. It's a commuter, so even though the motor does not go well it sort of works. It's quite annoying having to baby the throttle all the time and still get stalling in every acceleration and uphill.
I REALLY hope the wind turns out OK. Otherwise i think i'll have to buy another motor - or stop the ebiking. This is taking too much energy. I'd love to work with a quality motor instead of this piece of sh*t.
