New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[sac02]

OK, I was working my way through the entire thread, but it is slow going - I'm currently on about page 65. (for reference, User casainho just introduced himself and started posting a couple of pages ago.)

This thread is currently on page 164. That is a lot (99 in fact, I can math!) of pages left to read. It has taken me probably 8 hours to read 65 pages, with would mean I've still got another 12+ hours of reading left to go if I want to read it all.

Is it worth my time to read pages 65 - 165?

Or should I skip back to maybe page 140 and just pick up there?

 

[casainho]

OK, I was working my way through the entire thread, but it is slow going - I'm currently on about page 65. (for reference, User casainho just introduced himself and started posting a couple of pages ago.)

This thread is currently on page 164. That is a lot (99 in fact, I can math!) of pages left to read. It has taken me probably 8 hours to read 65 pages, with would mean I've still got another 12+ hours of reading left to go if I want to read it all.

Is it worth my time to read pages 65 - 165?

Or should I skip back to maybe page 140 and just pick up there?

I advice you to read all the wiki:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki

because the wiki has a FAQ about TSDZ2 and information about the OpenSource firmware. On the FAQ you will find links to the videos of Jabalat that covers importants topics of TSDZ2.

 

[sac02]

I advice you to read all the wiki:

Already done. :thumb:

Unless someone says that there is some critical info in pages 65-120, I think I'm gonna skip those.

Since this post doesn't either ask a question or really contribute anything, here's a pic of the temporary bike where my TSDZ2 got it's shakedown before moving to its new home (still being built):
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[jbalat]

Regarding the sprag clutch...I know someone who has done it with a hammer but you can easily cause damage. My brother is a motor mechanic and he has a hydraulic press, it's just a car Jack mounted in a steel frame. We used a piece of steel tubing and pressed it out slowly. It was easy to do but if you don't have access to a press I suggest you buy the bearing and gear assembly.

 

[adam B]

Quick question for which I haven't been able to find the answer to.
Do I need to buy a 60v LCD3 if I have a 750 w 52v controller and a 52v 15ah Battery?
Thanks in advance...

 

[casainho]

Quick question for which I haven't been able to find the answer to.
Do I need to buy a 60v LCD3 if I have a 750 w 52v controller and a 52v 15ah Battery?
Thanks in advance...

No, 48V is ok. I am being using 48V LCD3 on a 52V battery (14S) (on 2 different bicycles). I will put this information on the wiki.

 

[adam B]

awesome and thank you!!

 

[Daught]

I just finished installing the TSDZ2. Wow I'm really impressed with the motor. In not a big fan of most electric bikes, but this motor desks as natural as Bosch systems. While I wait for the LCD3 and my BMS I want to take it out for a ride tomorrow.

What's the voltage cut-off for the vlcd5 screen for the 52v? Does it even have a voltage cut-off? And how does it know the battery range on the display?

 

[thineight]

Regarding the sprag clutch...I know someone who has done it with a hammer but you can easily cause damage. My brother is a motor mechanic and he has a hydraulic press, it's just a car Jack mounted in a steel frame. We used a piece of steel tubing and pressed it out slowly. It was easy to do but if you don't have access to a press I suggest you buy the bearing and gear assembly.

Thanks, that was the definitive answer to me :wink:
Without proper tools is difficult to do things.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Most of these bearings are not pressed in over tightly or " LocTite " used to ensure a total bond, one can simply use a common vice to reinstall most bearings or a threaded rod and nut.

As the bearing is US anyway then a hammer and socket of the right diameter with the gear over the spread jaws of the vice will have it out in a thrice ( trick is to use a big hammer softly rather than a small hammer with big swings ). Now reinstalling is the trickier bit, make sure the bearing is in the right orientation and then ease it into the gear with your thumbs making sure the bearing is dead flat with the gear. You'll only be able to push it in a few thou, but do start it this way. Now support the gear and with a socket that only touches the very outer shell of the new bearing, close the vice jaws, get it exactly even and the bearing will simply ease into the gear. If it at all is a bit tight then makes sure you are pressing it evenly. Once started it will go in pretty easily.

Good simple engineering will over come most problems.

 

[Bartman]

Is there a configuration guide for V.16 ofnthe opensource firmware. The wiki only goes up to v.15. I’ve just had the joy of going back to the standard firmware after swapping out the motor for my spare one as my original one has faulty bearing and I blew my KTLCD3 by leaving it out in the Scottish rain.

 

[Minatauro]

Here is a cable that:

• Plugs into a standard TSDZ2 motor

• Doesn't modify the stock setup, so the upgrade can be undone

• Uses waterproof connectors

• Plugs directly to the green 5-pin KT-LCD3 cable

• Works with 8-wire (throttle) TSDZ2

You need two cables:
Higo B8 This plugs into the TSDZ2
I bought from https://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/en/connectors/higo/higo-main-connectors/higo-b8-h-detail
"1 in 4" Waterproof cable. This cable has waterproof connectors for KT-LCD3, Two brake connectors, and a throttle connector
I bought from http://www.topbikekit.com/1electric-bike-waterproof-cable-connector-for-meterbrake-and-throttle-p-523.html
Can also be bought at
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ebike-Scooter-Waterproof-extension-cable-connector-for-Brake-Meter-Throttle/263866316225?hash=item3d6fa875c1:g:Sp4AAOSwVHdarMXB
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Okfeet-1-in-4-cable-4-to-1-wire-controller-connector-2pin-3-pin-ebrake-conversion/3521021_32887725873.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.11.321b180ekVrzL4

This cable is sold for KT controllers that have waterproof cables, so the KT-LCD3 connection is correct. Topbikekit also sells throttles, brake levers, and reed switch brake kits with matching waterproof connectors.

That's it. Two cables, one splice. Waterproof connectors that take available throttles & brake equipment.

Great TSDZ2 instructions are at
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-KT-LCD3-to-TSDZ2

Here is the pinout and what wire to connect to what:
1 in 4 Pinout.jpg
Final Cable
DSC00352 assembled cable.jpg
Connections
DSC00348 conductor connections 1 in 4 on left.JPG

Let me know if I made a mistake. I had to test the throttle to get the throttle color match right.

Hi, I have come across this thread in my quest to convert my bike with a tsdz2. I would love to be able to install the custom firmware but it is the cutting and soldering of wires which concerns me. The less cutting the better. I dont see any responses to this post but it looks a good way of adding the LCD3 without damaging the VLCD5 and keeping it waterproof.

If the LCD3 is flashed using the STlink and the wires provided then I guess I would still need a speed sensor(or sensor extension?) connector cut and soldered to flash the motor via the STLink? Is this the latest best way to flash the motor and connect the display or has anyone come up with a better way since. Which is easiest route the 8 pin (with throttle or 6 pin (without throttle). I havent bought the motor yet until I know the easiest way to customise it. I am looking at getting a 48v 750w. I asked eBird what the new version of the motor is and what is the difference and I was told it was better stronger waterproofing. Has anyone else heard this?
Thanks and this is great work by all you guys.

 

[mrhedstrom]

Does anyone know where to find a replacement rubber seal in this picture. The seals well is 5 x 3.2 mm with a inner diameter of 80 mm. A round o-ring will probably not seal enough. Any good ides for a replacement seal?

 

[casainho]

Does anyone know where to find a replacement rubber seal in this picture. The seals well is 5 x 3.2 mm with a inner diameter of 80 mm. A round o-ring will probably not seal enough. Any good ides for a replacement seal?

My ideas:

1. Buy some spare parts on pswpower.com and ask them to send you that specific part. I once asked for some extra bolts that they do not sell and they sent me for free on a package with other parts I bought.

2. Buy an extra TSDZ2 motor for spare parts. This makes sense for me as I have 4 ebikes with TSDZ2 for all the family and I do the repairs for them.

3. DIY.

 

[casainho]

TSDZ2 different (mechanical) versions

There are at least 2 TSDZ2 different (mechanical) versions. The most recent version seems the one that has a helical main gear. I found this while repairing my main gear clutch, were I tried to use a main gear from another motor. Luckily I had even another TSDZ2 in stock and this one seems to be the most recent version, with the helical gears:

And the broke clutch bearing on the right side, that I removed from my TSDZ2 ebike:

I updated the wiki TSDZ2 FAQ: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ#TSDZ2_different_mechanical_versions

 

[Ron Paul's Blimp]

TSDZ2 different (mechanical) versions

There are at least 2 TSDZ2 different (mechanical) versions. The most recent version seems the one that has a helical main gear. I found this while repairing my main gear clutch, were I tried to use a main gear from another motor. Luckily I had even another TSDZ2 in stock and this one seems to be the most recent version, with the helical gears:

Have you noticed any noise difference between the helical and straight-cut versions?

 

[casainho]

TSDZ2 different (mechanical) versions

There are at least 2 TSDZ2 different (mechanical) versions. The most recent version seems the one that has a helical main gear. I found this while repairing my main gear clutch, were I tried to use a main gear from another motor. Luckily I had even another TSDZ2 in stock and this one seems to be the most recent version, with the helical gears:

Have you noticed any noise difference between the helical and straight-cut versions?

I think all my motors are the ones with helical gears. I also have that question: why would they changed to helical gears? what could be the advantage??

 

[Ron Paul's Blimp]

AIUI, helical gears are generally quieter and smoother.

 

[Bartman]

I’ve noticed other differences between my older motor purchased about a year ago (silver sprocket carrier) and my new motor purchased a couple of weeks ago (black improved sprocket carrier). The new motor has a reprofiled housing for the main gear. It is thinner and a different shape. It also seems to run smother (is this due to the helical gear ?) and build quality seems a lot better.

 

[Minatauro]

I’ve noticed other differences between my older motor purchased about a year ago (silver sprocket carrier) and my new motor purchased a couple of weeks ago (black improved sprocket carrier). The new motor has a reprofiled housing for the main gear. It is thinner and a different shape. It also seems to run smother (is this due to the helical gear ?) and build quality seems a lot better.

Where did you buy the newer version from?

 

[Bartman]

I’ve noticed other differences between my older motor purchased about a year ago (silver sprocket carrier) and my new motor purchased a couple of weeks ago (black improved sprocket carrier). The new motor has a reprofiled housing for the main gear. It is thinner and a different shape. It also seems to run smother (is this due to the helical gear ?) and build quality seems a lot better.

Where did you buy the newer version from?

From a Uk seller on eBay. It came with throttle and brakes as well.

 

[casainho]

I’ve noticed other differences between my older motor purchased about a year ago (silver sprocket carrier) and my new motor purchased a couple of weeks ago (black improved sprocket carrier). The new motor has a reprofiled housing for the main gear. It is thinner and a different shape. It also seems to run smother (is this due to the helical gear ?) and build quality seems a lot better.

Would be nice if you could provide some pictures.

 

[thineight]

Which is in your opinion the new version of the mechanics, the straight or the helical gear?
I have 2 motors from late 2017 and both with straight gears (pswpower)

 

[casainho]

Which is in your opinion the new version of the mechanics, the straight or the helical gear?
I have 2 motors from late 2017 and both with straight gears (pswpower)

I bought my motors from pswpower. The most recent ones has helical gears.

 

[elem]

The first motors had a separate programming port and the very old one had a firmware with a different program and was working differently, it accepted etheir 36V or 48V ( without the baregraphe working ) and had an accelerating ramp ( better for preserve nylon gear ) and a decressing amp with decressing rotating pedale, it had also a different nylon gear ( white one ) and 3 rolling bear instead of 2 on the main axe .
sorry for my bad english spoking .

if you want picture i can share .

next step will be to buil a connector to plug in the programming port of the old one motor and got the program .

cu all