endlessolli
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2020
- Messages
- 202
As I said, in my case it is this one and anotherone holding the 2nd needlebearing inside the shaft.
Thanks for the info on eyeless circlips - did not see that tool before
New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
Thanks for the info on eyeless circlips - did not see that tool before
I had a similar issue with the screen attachment. I ended up buying longer screws (they are M3 screws) and that fixed it ( ha ha)
Thank you Scars. It turns out my bar is so much bigger than the clamp diameter, that the threaded holes won't align well enough to permit use of a long screw to bridge the gap.
As a temporary fix, I tied the two ends of the clamp together with a loop of CAT-5 inner wire, and twisted it until the clamp pulled tight. That has been adequate for road testing. But it turns out that position on the handlebars is limiting my hand positions too much. Also, in practice it seems I don't need the buttons to be constantly accessible during riding. So, I will order an outboard accessory mounting bar, and put the switch there.
As a temporary fix, I tied the two ends of the clamp together with a loop of CAT-5 inner wire, and twisted it until the clamp pulled tight. That has been adequate for road testing. But it turns out that position on the handlebars is limiting my hand positions too much. Also, in practice it seems I don't need the buttons to be constantly accessible during riding. So, I will order an outboard accessory mounting bar, and put the switch there.
Speaking of snap ring pliers, this vintage KD 446 pliers I found amongst my automotive tools. The tips on it had to be ground down to fit the small TSDZ2 snap ring. The KD 446 originally came with different size tips which I misplaced long ago. I was able to find a replacement set from Home Depot shipped to store.
I just made this modification by adding a long wood screw to engage the pliers to make it easier to use, with less chance of "flying circlip". I've not tried it on an installed circlip yet but I think it should work well.
pedroalejan
1 µW
Hello all,
I have a TSDZ2 mounted on a fat bike with stock firmware and approx 350 km. For the last 50 km, the motor has been working intermittently, and eventually quit working at all. No error code on the VLCD5. The torque sensor is working fine (no load value of 108, goes up to 190 with load). So is the speed sensor.
It seems like I was able to bring some of the life back into the motor by turning on the walk assist mode. However, the assistance is very minimal (less than a quarter than what it is supposed to be). Using walk mode, the bike is not even able to keep the speed up to 6 km/h while sitting on it on the flat. There is also quite a bit of motor resistance when manually going backwards with the bike, battery off (although I don't know if that's normal).
My main hypothesis at this point would be a seized up / busted motor, potentially due to some water ingress? What do you guys think? I yet have to take the motor apart to validate this theory.
I have a TSDZ2 mounted on a fat bike with stock firmware and approx 350 km. For the last 50 km, the motor has been working intermittently, and eventually quit working at all. No error code on the VLCD5. The torque sensor is working fine (no load value of 108, goes up to 190 with load). So is the speed sensor.
It seems like I was able to bring some of the life back into the motor by turning on the walk assist mode. However, the assistance is very minimal (less than a quarter than what it is supposed to be). Using walk mode, the bike is not even able to keep the speed up to 6 km/h while sitting on it on the flat. There is also quite a bit of motor resistance when manually going backwards with the bike, battery off (although I don't know if that's normal).
My main hypothesis at this point would be a seized up / busted motor, potentially due to some water ingress? What do you guys think? I yet have to take the motor apart to validate this theory.
pedroalejan
1 µW
Update: I opened the case up and the motor overheated and burnt out. I ordered a new motor so we'll see, but I would be very surprised if that wasn't the problem! The smell is... persistent!
Scootrider
1 µW
May I ask of you brave Ebike wrenchers what could possibly be making loud birdlike shreeks, usually one per crank revolution on a TSDZ2B motor which has just 500 miles on it? It usually subsides as it warms up, but I do like riding in winter and cold might be a factor.
endlessolli
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2020
- Messages
- 202
I would guess it is the one-way clutch in the blue gear. These are sometimes of low quality. Depending on your support it squeeches / slips (low support) or not (high support) - thats why it depends on the crank position. Once it warms up it ‘grabs’ better- thats when it subsides.
-> Buy a new bue gear (and hope the the quality is better than your original one) - the clutch comes with it.
Good Luck
-> Buy a new bue gear (and hope the the quality is better than your original one) - the clutch comes with it.
Good Luck
beemac
1 kW
I was convinced my tsdz2 was shrieking, but it turned out to be a bearing or two that has worked loose in my freehub and was scoring grooves in the internals. Are you sure it's coming from the motor?
So soon after installation, if it is with every pedal stroke then the first action is to tighten the large nut that holds the motor in the bottom bracket.
Last edited:
Scootrider
1 µW
Wow, you guys are great. Some great advice given, thanks so much. The blue gear and its bearings are probably as deep as I'd dare to go, but maybe after I dive in for the first time, my technophobia will subside!
Narcoleptic
1 mW
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2019
- Messages
- 13
Hi guys,
after giving up on fixing my TSDZ2 - that served me well for 4+ years, I'm looking to replace it.
I have been using the old 36v MOTOR with a 48V controller and VLCD 5, no brakes, no throttle.
The bike have a Shimano hub gear, no coaster brake.
The first thing that comes to mind is a TSDZ2B, like this one.
I'm in the EU and bought the last motor from PSW without problems.
Thought I'd check in with the pros before committing, here goes:
1. As I understand it the main difference with the B-model, except for some reinforced weak-spots, is less resistance when using the bike without motor assist? How much of a difference does this make? I DID find the old one not at all fun without motor assist.
2. The argument from the guy who helped me install the first motor when choosing a 36V motor, replacing the controller with a 48V one, was that this would eliminate need for high cadence to get good motor effect. I remember seeing different opinions on the subject in this thread through the years.
My old battery is not on PSW's webpage anymore. On screenshot from order page it says "48V 12.8AH Li-ion...Made of LG LGGBMH11865.." (SKU: PXL-SH-48128-LG) on the paper specs included it is called LX-B48132 made by Donguan Tongfu Electronics. It still works fine, so I would prefer to keep using it with the new motor.
Should I then get a 48V motor or a 36V one, but again replace the controller - possibly with the same 48V one used with the old one? What makes sense here?
3. How about the VLCD 5 display? Any particular reason to replace it? If so, with what and why?
4. Dito the question of flashing firmware. What would be the benefits to this, if any?
5. How about modifying the motor itself? I seem to remember some replacing the gear, improving heat dissipation etc on the TDSZ2's. Any recommendations?
6. Lastly, how about alternatives? I choose TDSZ2 over Bafang mainly for the torque sensor, but its seems they have models with this feature now, even though the ones I have seen cost quite a bit more. Is there reason to consider alternatives?
Cheers,
/N
after giving up on fixing my TSDZ2 - that served me well for 4+ years, I'm looking to replace it.
I have been using the old 36v MOTOR with a 48V controller and VLCD 5, no brakes, no throttle.
The bike have a Shimano hub gear, no coaster brake.
The first thing that comes to mind is a TSDZ2B, like this one.
I'm in the EU and bought the last motor from PSW without problems.
Thought I'd check in with the pros before committing, here goes:
1. As I understand it the main difference with the B-model, except for some reinforced weak-spots, is less resistance when using the bike without motor assist? How much of a difference does this make? I DID find the old one not at all fun without motor assist.
2. The argument from the guy who helped me install the first motor when choosing a 36V motor, replacing the controller with a 48V one, was that this would eliminate need for high cadence to get good motor effect. I remember seeing different opinions on the subject in this thread through the years.
My old battery is not on PSW's webpage anymore. On screenshot from order page it says "48V 12.8AH Li-ion...Made of LG LGGBMH11865.." (SKU: PXL-SH-48128-LG) on the paper specs included it is called LX-B48132 made by Donguan Tongfu Electronics. It still works fine, so I would prefer to keep using it with the new motor.
Should I then get a 48V motor or a 36V one, but again replace the controller - possibly with the same 48V one used with the old one? What makes sense here?
3. How about the VLCD 5 display? Any particular reason to replace it? If so, with what and why?
4. Dito the question of flashing firmware. What would be the benefits to this, if any?
5. How about modifying the motor itself? I seem to remember some replacing the gear, improving heat dissipation etc on the TDSZ2's. Any recommendations?
6. Lastly, how about alternatives? I choose TDSZ2 over Bafang mainly for the torque sensor, but its seems they have models with this feature now, even though the ones I have seen cost quite a bit more. Is there reason to consider alternatives?
Cheers,
/N
pedroalejan
1 µW
Final update: after swapping the motor, all is good! I will limit the current to 10 A to avoid burning it out again.
beemac
1 kW
Not sure that will guarantee you won't burn it out again - fitting the temp sensor and installing osf is the only way to be sure...
Hi
Can someone give me some help, I have a reading on the torque sensor of Re79 /Re1 0.
I don't know which coil represents the Re/Re1 reading and one of the coils it's a little bit damaged like in the photo below.
If I move the hall sensor the motor starts rotating and sometimes when I separate the coil that's attached to the motor it also rotates, but I can't make it rotate when I apply rotational force on the spindle with the hand or even with the crank.
Since the coil attached to the motor it's damaged should I buy a complete torque sensor or I can just buy the damaged coil on the photo?
Thanks
Can someone give me some help, I have a reading on the torque sensor of Re79 /Re1 0.
I don't know which coil represents the Re/Re1 reading and one of the coils it's a little bit damaged like in the photo below.
If I move the hall sensor the motor starts rotating and sometimes when I separate the coil that's attached to the motor it also rotates, but I can't make it rotate when I apply rotational force on the spindle with the hand or even with the crank.
Since the coil attached to the motor it's damaged should I buy a complete torque sensor or I can just buy the damaged coil on the photo?
Thanks
Attachments
beemac
1 kW
Hi thanks for replying,
The reading it's from the torque sensor from tsdz2 in vldc5 and it's yet with factory software!!
I was trying to know which coil does the Re and Re1 reading! So that I can know if there's a torque sensor problem or other thing on the motor and if I should buy the all torque sensor or just the damaged ring?
Thanks
The reading it's from the torque sensor from tsdz2 in vldc5 and it's yet with factory software!!
I was trying to know which coil does the Re and Re1 reading! So that I can know if there's a torque sensor problem or other thing on the motor and if I should buy the all torque sensor or just the damaged ring?
Thanks
With stock FW the Te and Te1 (not re/re1) value is the same without pressure on the pedals, this is the zero value.
Only the Te1 value will go up with pressure on the pedals to a max. value with you complete bodyweight on it.
beemac
1 kW
The reading isn't from the coils, the coils slip against each other and act as a 'wireless' way of transmitting power to and a signal back from a small circuit that has voltage regulator and hall sensor plus other bits further inside the bb assembly. So if the coil has broken wires then yes it's quite possible it's not getting the power or signal back properly from that circuit. Also make sure the rings are pressed close together - don't lose the springs!
this is a great video by wapous that shows the assembly/disassembly - i use it to make sure i'm doing the right thing!
Hi, thanks for replying and correcting me.
I thought that the reading should always be around 86 for bought Te and Te1 like the several videos I've saw on youtube, my motor it's on this moment completely dismounted and was never used!?
I was trying to make it rotate (when mounted) by turning the cranks spindle by hand or with the cranks...and it doesn't start.
Another thing that happened it's when I plug the throttle and brakes it shows an error E05 that's supposed to be low battery issue although it's almost fully charged on vldc5 screen (I'm using a ninebot battery with 36v and 5200mah and my motor it's also 36v), but I can make it rotate on walk mode as long I don't have the throttle or brake connected.
Thanks
I thought that the reading should always be around 86 for bought Te and Te1 like the several videos I've saw on youtube, my motor it's on this moment completely dismounted and was never used!?
I was trying to make it rotate (when mounted) by turning the cranks spindle by hand or with the cranks...and it doesn't start.
Another thing that happened it's when I plug the throttle and brakes it shows an error E05 that's supposed to be low battery issue although it's almost fully charged on vldc5 screen (I'm using a ninebot battery with 36v and 5200mah and my motor it's also 36v), but I can make it rotate on walk mode as long I don't have the throttle or brake connected.
Thanks
beemac
1 kW
speedsensor is normally the problem if walk assist works, but pedalling doesn't make the motor spin...
