New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[Henro]

Re the first issue ... it sounds like the wiring loom you have - has different colours ... I would double check with Electrify, but I suspect they are having that harness custom made so the wiki is not correct. It sounds like orange was one of your data lines going to the screen. You should be able to trace what the colour of the throttle wire is by finding what colour wire from the loom goes to the THR solder pad in the image below

That's what I thought as well (and it looks like that's the case) but the weird part is that when I tested the plug going out of the controller, all of the colors and pins match as per this photo:

Here's a photo of my controller. It looks to me as though blue and red are throttle and 5v, respectively.

I sent a message to Electrify and won't mess around too much until I get a response.

-edit-
I think I remember reading that EBC uses a Bafang wiring harness scheme, on which the blue and red are throttle and 5v! The color/pinout scheme is the same, but the colors are mapped differently. (as far as I can tell) Does anybody know what the PL pin is?
Ref:

Re the second issue. No idea what is going on. Really hope you haven't damaged anything by connecting the temp sensor output to the display data line in parallel. Someone else hopefully has seen your issue before.

Good luck

Thanks. I hope I haven't permanently damaged anything either. It'd be nice if I could figure out if it's the LCD or the controller that's having the issues before having to replace either.

 

[mctubster]

That's what I thought as well (and it looks like that's the case) but the weird part is that when I tested the plug going out of the controller, all of the colors and pins match as per this photo:

As per your picture the throttle wire is blue. Does it switch to an orange wire at some point? Not sure what you mean by the colours matching? Yes the pin out would need to be correct, regardless of the colours inside the motor. Also make sure you get the right 5V line, eg the brake line is 5V when unused, but won't give any current.

-edit-
I think I remember reading that EBC uses a Bafang wiring harness scheme, on which the blue and red are throttle and 5v! The color/pinout scheme is the same, but the colors are mapped differently. (as far as I can tell) Does anybody know what the PL pin is?
Ref:

I would guess it is the display active line, goes high when the display is on. That is my guess, based on how the TSDZ2 works - nothing else!

 

[Rydon]

Re the first issue ... it sounds like the wiring loom you have - has different colours ... I would double check with Electrify, but I suspect they are having that harness custom made so the wiki is not correct. It sounds like orange was one of your data lines going to the screen. You should be able to trace what the colour of the throttle wire is by finding what colour wire from the loom goes to the THR solder pad in the image below

That's what I thought as well (and it looks like that's the case) but the weird part is that when I tested the plug going out of the controller, all of the colors and pins match as per this photo:

Here's a photo of my controller. It looks to me as though blue and red are throttle and 5v, respectively.

I sent a message to Electrify and won't mess around too much until I get a response.

-edit-
I think I remember reading that EBC uses a Bafang wiring harness scheme, on which the blue and red are throttle and 5v! The color/pinout scheme is the same, but the colors are mapped differently. (as far as I can tell) Does anybody know what the PL pin is?
Ref:

Re the second issue. No idea what is going on. Really hope you haven't damaged anything by connecting the temp sensor output to the display data line in parallel. Someone else hopefully has seen your issue before.

Good luck

Thanks. I hope I haven't permanently damaged anything either. It'd be nice if I could figure out if it's the LCD or the controller that's having the issues before having to replace either.

Mctubster is right. The wire colors on the Electrify controller are mapped differently from the 1 to 4 cable to the controller in order to accommodate Bafang style displays, throttles, and brake sensors. For standard 8 pin controllers, there is a female version of the 1 to 4 cable that does this remapping inside the 1 to 4 cable. When doing the temperature sensor mod with the Bafang style wiring version of the controller you should wire it to the pads/ through holes on the controller PCB (as shown on Github) rather than going by wire color.

Regarding figuring out whether it is the LCD or the controller; if you purchase the complete TSDZ2 controller and LCD3 display kit with 1 to 4 cable you have everything you need to troubleshoot and then you can return the unused components to Electrify Bike. The complete Open Source Firmware kit is found here: https://www.electrifybike.com/store...le_Open_Source_(FOS)_Firmware_Upgrade_.html#/ This kit is also for those that already have a TSDZ2 and want the Open Source Firmware but don't want to mess with splicing and/or flashing the motor and display.

 

[Henro]

When doing the temperature sensor mod with the Bafang style wiring version of the controller you should wire it to the pads/ through holes on the controller PCB (as shown on Github) rather than going by wire color.

Wish that information had been obvious two days ago. Hope this helps the next person out.

I attached the temp sensor to the blue and red wires (blue is throttle, red is 5v, black is still gnd) and it worked as expected.

Still having the same problem where it boots at battery connect, and won't shut off fully with the soft power button. I measured the orange wire on my setup (Bafang PL wire) and it showed battery voltage which obviously cooked my first sensor. (good thing I bought a 4-pack)

I assume it drew enough current to cook a pull up/down resistor somewhere too, and that's the reason for the auto boot. Nothing inside the LCD looked or smelled bad, so my assumption is that it's somewhere in the controller under all that rubber potting. I might check in the button case as well if I can get it open, but all buttons work properly when it's on so it's probably ok.

 

[casainho]

Still having the same problem where it boots at battery connect, and won't shut off fully with the soft power button. I measured the orange wire on my setup (Bafang PL wire) and it showed battery voltage which obviously cooked my first sensor. (good thing I bought a 4-pack)

I assume it drew enough current to cook a pull up/down resistor somewhere too, and that's the reason for the auto boot. Nothing inside the LCD looked or smelled bad, so my assumption is that it's somewhere in the controller under all that rubber potting. I might check in the button case as well if I can get it open, but all buttons work properly when it's on so it's probably ok.

That makes all sense to me.

 

[RicMcK]

I think I fixed both issues. Now I understand how important it is to not have a foot on a pedal and wait 30 seconds or more for the system to fully boot. I continue to test the low pedal torque dropout.

Should I change the motor controller setting to "2" experimental? What are the upsides & downsides?

 

[RicMcK]

I finally got my dual chainring configured. The chain alignment is not as good as I would like, but I think it will work.

I trimmed (thinned) both the inside of the spider and the outside of large ring to reduce the amount of offset. Then I added 3 thin SS washers to offset the spider. I then put silicone to fill the gap between the spider (where the o-ring is. I then made a spacer to move the front derailleur outboard. I may order a set of 52/42 steel rings if the offset seems to wear the chain to much

 

[manoz]

So I managed to grind at the bottom bracket a bit but have another problem,(apart from rounding off the pedal nut so gona have to buy new pedals ), the profile of the gear cable guide under the BB is too big. If I take it off the motor goes through the BB fine. can anyone recommend a decent low profile guide in the UK? The current cable guide has a plastic nub which keeps it place under the tension of the cables.

Hi @manoz or anyone else who did this,

Could you walk me through how you did this?

I'm having the same issue but can't see anything specific which might be causing the issue. I've attached some photos of what I'm working with. Reading these comments, it looks it might actually be catching on something in the middle before the non-drive threads.

Non-drive side image https://imgur.com/wKxFOHd

No obstruction externally https://imgur.com/hxJ0rbY

Internal of BB https://imgur.com/o86WAB9

How far it is currently sliding in - https://imgur.com/BqB97QL

Thanks!

Hi sorry had been away do didn't see this post, did you manage to get the motor in? I used a dremel with the grinding stone that came with it. Just stuck the stone in the middle area of the BB away from the threads and rotated it round and round at full speed. I alternated between grinding and attempting to put in the motor. Got the motor in with some force in the end but never resorted to whacking it lol

Anyways as for my experience so far. I have a couple of questions and concerns if anyone can help? Would be greatly appreciated it.

1. Several times the motor failed to assist from a cold start. Disconnecting the battery and connecting again solved the issue though.I haven't done any proper cable management and want to wrap the connector in tape or heatshrink. Obviously this means I won't be able to disconnect and reconnect the motor easily. Anyone else had this problem, how can it be fixed? The connector is an Anderson type.

2. The battery indicator on my VLCD6 display is not consistent on depletion. Yesterday I rode some miles and the battery had just dropped to 3 bars. Today I rode about the same distance and the battery died about 10 miles from home. I didn't charge the battery so was expecting the battery to drop to 1 bar. Is the "conditioning" process of battery charging going to fix this?

3. I'm having a real hard time getting to the "power select" mode on my VLD6 unit. Even tried pressing all the buttons with a flat object. Is there a trick to this? Would like to squeeze a bit more power out of the motor if possible. I bought the VLCD6 because I wanted something discreet and fits on the side. is there a better side mount display?

I don't know if this is related to your issue, but I just installed my motor and quickly learned that if I turned it on while I was pedaling it will screw up the sensors and not give me assist. I had to stop bike, turn it off/on again while my feet were off pedals. Then it was fine. If I hadn't read that it was a known behavior of these motors, I would have been freaking out. Now I just make sure I remember to turn it on before I get on the bike.

This explains why I have also been getting inconsistent behaviour with the motor, thanks. Too used to jumping on a bike and laying the smackdown on the pedals. In fact I broke my freehub because of it lol

 

[dameri]

Has anyone ordered parts from Psw-Power lately. I ordered parts for June 28th and June 29th. The order I made on June 29th came on July 5th. The first order hasn't even started yet. I sent them an email and the answer was: The courier company has not provided the tracking number to us, please wait a few days.

Does not sound like a credible explanation

I made two orders because I forgot something from first order. All parts were in their Chinese stock when I made the order (accordind to their website). I think I try to find another wendor for TSDZ2 parts.

 

[Bartman]

Anyone got a spare cover for where the wires come out of the motor. See photo. I’ve lost mine, took the motor apart months ago and now can’t find it. Uk preferably but elsewhere also ok.

 

[casainho]

Anyone got a spare cover for where the wires come out of the motor. See photo. I’ve lost mine, took the motor apart months ago and now can’t find it. Uk preferably but elsewhere also ok.

I think you can use your motor safely without that cover.

There are many parts for TSDZ2 that are not available to buy. When I buy some parts from PSWPower, I usually ask for some of that parts, like extra bolts or something and they usually send them on the same batch.

 

[mctubster]

Should I change the motor controller setting to "2" experimental? What are the upsides & downsides?

Higher RPM possible, more power consumption. Unless you are wanting >90RPM not needed and as it is named a potential risk to motor and controller, though not sure anyone has had a failure.

 

[mctubster]

I finally got my dual chainring configured. The chain alignment is not as good as I would like, but I think it will work.

I trimmed (thinned) both the inside of the spider and the outside of large ring to reduce the amount of offset. Then I added 3 thin SS washers to offset the spider. I then put silicone to fill the gap between the spider (where the o-ring is. I then made a spacer to move the front derailleur outboard. I may order a set of 52/42 steel rings if the offset seems to wear the chain to much

Just use the big chainring only when using the bottom 4-5 gears? Good job BTW. Any idea how far out you are compared to the original chainrings?

The TSDZ2 has a really big offset :\

 

[Stilo]

Hi!Anyone know what is the difference between the two TSDZ2 48V controllers ,structurally(15A and 18A)?Mosfets,shunt, capacitors?
I bought one of 48V750W, but the controller is 15A.
The 15A model is 13a +\- by programming(https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&hilit=controller+18A&start=700).That means 48x13 is an 624W motor.

According to these, the seller deceived me?

 

[casainho]

Why it is important to calibrate the torque sensor?

Some torque sensors on TSDZ2 were found to have low sensibility due to a bad calibration. On this case, the torque sensor could only measure up to 10 kgs of force on the pedals while a good calibrated torque sensor can measure up to 40 kgs, which is 4x more! Why this is important? because if you do like Mountain Biking, when you stop you want a motor fast response, you will put your max force on the pedals and with a calibrated torque sensor you will get 4x more motor power assistance.


I am sure we all want a good torque sensor, that is why most of us prefer TSDZ2 over a Bafang. It is a really fun game, to apply more force with our legs and feel a strong answer from the motor!!

I wrote a wiki page with the process I used to calibrate my sensor (note that I did this process twice, on 2 different torque sensors):

How to calibrate the torque sensor --> https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-calibrate-the-torque-sensor

 

[Retrorockit]

Anyone got a spare cover for where the wires come out of the motor. See photo. I’ve lost mine, took the motor apart months ago and now can’t find it. Uk preferably but elsewhere also ok.

I just make one out of thin sheet metal. I suppose it was helpful having the original for a pattern. The thinner material gained some extra room for chainline adjustment also. Drill the holes first including the 1/2 round at the edge, them cut it out with tin snips.

 

[MathewAtYou]

Hello all, NEWB here.

I just got a TSDZ2 kit from Autoebike. Installed the Kit on wife's Trek 2.1 WSD Road Bike.

Chainline was not good and chain would fall off chainring when in biggest gear on the cassette. I searched a many times and didn't find a fix on here :-(.

Ended up buying this offset chainring. So expensive :-(.

This new chainring is 2/8" closer to the seatstay than the original...not as much as i wish, but enough that the chain no longer falls off the chainring. Hope this helps someone.

Cheers

 

[LePeche]

re MathewAtYou ... yeah got the same problem and started a thread (no doubt been covered elsewhere)....this thread seems to cover everything but it makes it a challenge to find specifics needs. Anyhow.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=101188#p1479275

Keen to see how your new chain ring goes.

Have been looking at Bafang options from Ali....such as this https://tinyurl.com/y5xcgvdc or https://tinyurl.com/y6b3sj8e


Keen to see/ hear what others have done.

 

[Cristian]

Hi, i'm trying to install a light system with headlight, signal, brake light and horn, all powered from the 48V battery.

I have brake sensors for hydraulic brakes installed, running v0.19.0 on the TSDZ2 with KT-LCD3. Is there a way to get a signal that would light up the brake light?

 

[manoz]

Today I was out for a ride and the motor started making a loud grinding sound and there was significant loss of power. The assist was still noticeable at each level though. i stopped and got off the bike and scratched my head then got on the bike and the noise had gone. Only done 200 miles on it. Is this a defective motor?

 

[Bartman]

I’ve just ordered a 48v battery for my 36v TSDZ2. What motor type do I select In the opensource software ? Standard 36v ?

 

[wpenner]

My friend decided to engaging the motor with throttle while the bike was stalled. Heard a loud pop sound.

I assumed it was the blue gear, but the gear looks OK. The spindle appears to be spinning in the middle of the blue gear.

Can i simply replace the blue gear? Does it have the clutch built into it? Any other damage i should check for? The electronics all seem fine as i can hear motor spinning when throttle on.

Video:
https://youtu.be/z_T1F7aJdwY

 

[flufferty]

My friend decided to engaging the motor with throttle while the bikes was stalled. Heard a loud pop sound.

I assumed it was the blue gear, but the gear looks OK. The spindle appears to be spinning in the middle of the blue gear.

Can i simply replace the blue gear? Does it have the clutch built into it?

Video:
https://youtu.be/z_T1F7aJdwY

The clutch in the blue gear is "HF1216", and it's really easy to replace. Just get a socket of the appropriate size and lightly hammer it out. You can find the bearing at ebay or any bearing-reseller should be able to order it for you..

 

[wpenner]

My friend decided to engaging the motor with throttle while the bikes was stalled. Heard a loud pop sound.

I assumed it was the blue gear, but the gear looks OK. The spindle appears to be spinning in the middle of the blue gear.

Can i simply replace the blue gear? Does it have the clutch built into it?

Video:
https://youtu.be/z_T1F7aJdwY

The clutch in the blue gear is "HF1216", and it's really easy to replace. Just get a socket of the appropriate size and lightly hammer it out. You can find the bearing at ebay or any bearing-reseller should be able to order it for you..

Thanks, so if i order a new blue gear, or metal one, it looks like it comes with the clutch already pressed into the gear?

 

[flufferty]

Thanks, so if i order a new blue gear, or metal one, it looks like it comes with the clutch already pressed into the gear?

Yes, it should be included. I haven't seen anyone selling the gear without bearings.