New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[endlessolli]

You will need to order the material in bulk and trim the washers yourself.
Aliexpress Supplier (good service): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3296757 ... 4c4ddaeMzb
You can order 0.5mm or 0.3mm Teflon sheets. I recommend 0.3mm for a precise fit. I installed 3X 0.3mm washers instead of 2X 0.5mm washers.

Try this new AliExpress adress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003653938258.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.6ef81f77JJlSdQ&algo_pvid=71db9b11-bbee-4223-a2ba-c7c61ad7e0ab&algo_exp_id=71db9b11-bbee-4223-a2ba-c7c61ad7e0ab-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000026664950993%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21CAD%2116.39%2115.57%21%21%21%21%21%402102111816742277699505644d0688%2112000026664950993%21sea&curPageLogUid=aiqB7MxrB7Ox

....I did the el cheapo version: I cut them out of the bottom of 'greek joghurt' 500g jars. The material of the 500g jars is pretty sturdy and they are holding up so far (since ~500km)

 

[dameri]

Good recycling endlessolli.

 

[pxl666]

is it advisable to put small amount of silicone grease to lessen friction?

 

[Elinx]

... silicone grease to lessen friction?

Imho the Ptfe washers are inserted for just that reason.

 

[fireflyer451]

Could someone point me to the download of the original 860c firmware for a bafang motor? I want to experiment with a BBS02 instead of my TSDZ2b. Thanks

 

[Elinx]

...original 860c firmware for a bafang motor? ....

Imho there isn't, because it was not possible to dump it before flashing.

 

[Matze_Senpai]

question; is it possible to run the motor without display? i got the vlcd5 and would like to remove it. for asthetic reasons...sadly changing to a smaller screen is not possible because i have 8 pin also i use the throttle

 

[beemac]

question; is it possible to run the motor without display? i got the vlcd5 and would like to remove it. for asthetic reasons...sadly changing to a smaller screen is not possible because i have 8 pin also i use the throttle

Yes if you're using stock firmware or casainho's (not sure about emmbrusa's), but you won't be able to change assist since the buttons connect to the display - and you'll have to jumper battery voltage to Vin on the connector so the controller powers up when you switch on the battery. Obviously be careful and make sure you know which pin is which before you apply battery voltage to any of the pins if you go down this route.

I don't use a display - but i've built the 'wired remote' version of the tsdz2 wireless project running the casainho fw. So I have buttons to change assist and power on/off on my handlebar but no display (display is an android app if needed, but I don't think i've connected the app for over a year). There are other options for bluetooth displays with other opensource firmware using an ESP32 too but I've not got any experience with them.

 

[Matze_Senpai]

question; is it possible to run the motor without display? i got the vlcd5 and would like to remove it. for asthetic reasons...sadly changing to a smaller screen is not possible because i have 8 pin also i use the throttle

Yes if you're using stock firmware or casainho's (not sure about emmbrusa's), but you won't be able to change assist since the buttons connect to the display - and you'll have to jumper battery voltage to Vin on the connector so the controller powers up when you switch on the battery. Obviously be careful and make sure you know which pin is which before you apply battery voltage to any of the pins if you go down this route.

I don't use a display - but i've built the 'wired remote' version of the tsdz2 wireless project running the casainho fw. So I have buttons to change assist and power on/off on my handlebar but no display (display is an android app if needed, but I don't think i've connected the app for over a year). There are other options for bluetooth displays with other opensource firmware using an ESP32 too but I've not got any experience with them.

alright thanks for this information. im running emebrusa software , i thought i could make it work but because you cant change assist then i guess i will just keep the display! i was hoping there was some sort of an adapter cable that would let you plug the remote and throttle (like bafang has)

 

[ilu]

question; is it possible to run the motor without display? i got the vlcd5 and would like to remove it. for asthetic reasons...sadly changing to a smaller screen is not possible because i have 8 pin also i use the throttle

You can use a smaller display, but you would need to make the adapter cable by yourself. I have joined an 8pin cable to a Bafang harness so I can use generic throttle and brake sensors, and SW102 display with it's standard connector. I also changed a Bafang type connector to VLCD6 display so that I can use that if I need to troubleshoot problems possibly related to firmware.

You could just connect the 8-pin display wires to same wires in a 6-pin cable and also get the throttle cables from that 8-pin. It's a bit tedious work though looking at different pin and wire diagrams to find you which is which as the wire colors might not be the same.

 

[casainho]

I checked the mini flipsky would fit in the controller case - and it does, perfectly! Good to know.

How are things going?? I am having a good experience with that VESC and I wish to share my latest ride of 4h:

And how is it inside?? Here it is, without that black plastic 3D printed cover:


And more details. Here is the DIY EBike board + the VESC FLIPSKY Mini FSESC6.7:


That DIY EBike board is based on ESP32-S3, that is running the Pyhton EBike firmware and that I program wireless by Wifi. I am sharing the firmware, schematics, photos, etc, here: https://github.com/OpenSourceEBike/EBike_EScooter_app_pyhton

After testing that every EBike sensor reading were working, I put silicone to make all that wires robust, including the connectors. The idea is to make everything robust and avoid breaking due to the vibrations while I am riding on the mountains:




And finally, I used kapton tape that is very robust and resists to high temperatures:


I 3D printed the motor cover in ABS plastic - here it is, and just before I screwed it, I did put a fair amount of silicone to make sure it will keep the water prof:



Yesterday I did a ride for 4h and it was a good test. Everything is working as expected.

I was looking at the VESC temperature at it was never over 42º Celsius (but ambient temperature were low at around 10ºC), while I think the max for VESC would be 100ºC. So, this small VESC seems very good for the task!!

Also about the sensorless motor startup instead of magnetic encoder as on original motor controller, I did not notice anything.

There was some mud, but not to much:


Detail of the motor 3D printed cover in ABS plastic:


In the end, I cleaned the EBike with pressurized water, as I am confident that 3D printed motor cover, with the silicone I used on it, is water prof enough to handle all this water:




So, the hardware is working as expected. Now I will focus on improving the firmware, as currently this is just driving the motor based on the pedal torque value and choosing the assist level on the display. There are missing features on the firmware, as measuring the wheel speed to show on the display as also the important walk assist. I will also focus on the final documentation for How to Build.

 

[beemac]

I checked the mini flipsky would fit in the controller case - and it does, perfectly! Good to know.

How are things going?? I am having a good experience with that VESC and I wish to share my latest ride of 4h:

Yea looks like you've pretty much got things sorted, nice work. I've made some progress but don't have as much time as I did over Christmas so it's slowed down a bit. So far I've mostly been doing stuff related to the NRF itself, I tried upgrading the SDK to the latest with the existing codebase and that was just a total pain in the arse. I'm sure the NRF SDK is a great thing but it's huge and unwieldy - and the sdk_config.h is missing loads of stuff... Anyway - I also realised that by using the SDK it made the code quite unportable - so I've gone back to bare metal which is what I find fun anyway. Have a basic framework booting with timers initialised and 2 uarts working but that's it so far. Once I get a bit further things should move quite quickly.

For now i'm going to work on the board as a replacement for the internal controller - so no bluetooth or buttons attached. I'll just use the existing serial protocol to ensure compatibilty.

Will post more when I have something interesting to show

 

[dsjustice]

I just bought my second TSDZ2 from cycles.eco, and the (white) drive gear failed on the second ride. In order to get moving again as quickly as possible, I bought a brass gear off Amazon, but I've found that it's not a drop-in replacement. Unlike the original, it has a pressed-in roller bearing with an ID of 9mm. This doesn't fit the splined drive shaft's 12mm OD.

Is this a known difference between versions of the motor, such that I can buy a replacement shaft? Or is this brass gear incompatible somehow in spite of being advertised as being for the TSDZ2?

 

[pxl666]

I just bought my second TSDZ2 from cycles.eco, and the (white) drive gear failed on the second ride. In order to get moving again as quickly as possible, I bought a brass gear off Amazon, but I've found that it's not a drop-in replacement. Unlike the original, it has a pressed-in roller bearing with an ID of 9mm. This doesn't fit the splined drive shaft's 12mm OD.

Is this a known difference between versions of the motor, such that I can buy a replacement shaft? Or is this brass gear incompatible somehow in spite of being advertised as being for the TSDZ2?

Untitled (Medium).png

you have to return it and find for a tsdz2B specifically , it's different , no bearing

 

[Elinx]

I just bought my second TSDZ2 from cycles.eco, and the (white) drive gear failed ......

You have bought a Tsdz2B. In the picture you see the main differences with Tsdz2.

 

[dameri]

I just bought my second TSDZ2 from cycles.eco, and the (white) drive gear failed ......

You have bought a Tsdz2B. In the picture you see the main differences with Tsdz2.

Good picture Elinx.

 

[Matze_Senpai]

alright so i clicked on eco cycles tsdz2 link and found this - they say they cooperated with tongsheng . so im wondering, why would they not fix other things (like heat problems) and only change the internal gear design

 

[dsjustice]

alright so i clicked on eco cycles tsdz2 link and found this - they say they cooperated with tongsheng . so im wondering, why would they not fix other things (like heat problems) and only change the internal gear design

The description of their cooling mod is "custom machined heatsink plate fits under motor base with the highest quality thermal gap filler packed around the motor core to allow higher power usage with increased reliability (vs. stock untreated motors which can overheat easily with OSF as you breach 450w)".

I figured it was worth the $75 to get the heatsink plate, but the thermal paste is very annoying every time I take the cover off. I think I'll look into installing the pads instead. And clearly the composite gear isn't all that -- mine sheared off a bunch of teeth on on the second ride.

BTW, thanks for posting that comparison image @Elinx, I looked all over for something like that.

 

[pxl666]

I figured it was worth the $75 to get the heatsink plate, but the thermal paste is very annoying every time I take the cover off. I think I'll look into installing the pads instead. And clearly the composite gear isn't all that -- mine sheared off a bunch of teeth on on the second ride.

well , see this

this element is filling the gap between motor and cover
as to second matter - i find it puzzled people break it so often , neither me nor my wife or people i converted bike for , broke it ...

 

[casainho]

I checked the mini flipsky would fit in the controller case - and it does, perfectly! Good to know.

How are things going?? I am having a good experience with that VESC and I wish to share my latest ride of 4h:

Yea looks like you've pretty much got things sorted, nice work. I've made some progress but don't have as much time as I did over Christmas so it's slowed down a bit. So far I've mostly been doing stuff related to the NRF itself, I tried upgrading the SDK to the latest with the existing codebase and that was just a total pain in the arse. I'm sure the NRF SDK is a great thing but it's huge and unwieldy - and the sdk_config.h is missing loads of stuff... Anyway - I also realised that by using the SDK it made the code quite unportable - so I've gone back to bare metal which is what I find fun anyway. Have a basic framework booting with timers initialised and 2 uarts working but that's it so far. Once I get a bit further things should move quite quickly.

For now i'm going to work on the board as a replacement for the internal controller - so no bluetooth or buttons attached. I'll just use the existing serial protocol to ensure compatibilty.

Will post more when I have something interesting to show

I finalized the documentation / How to Build, please give a look and see if it can help you in someway: https://opensourceebike.github.io/

You know, most probably you can use directly what I did and just add the TSDZ2 torque sensor bits. But seems you have fun on the low level code...

Good luck on the TSDZ2 torque sensor reverse engineering. Myself, I have all the electronics finalized and already "glued" inside my Bafang motor, so now I just need to improve the Pyhton firmware and I program and debug wirelessly, so no need I keep my hands dirty

 

[beemac]

For now i'm going to work on the board as a replacement for the internal controller - so no bluetooth or buttons attached. I'll just use the existing serial protocol to ensure compatibilty.

Will post more when I have something interesting to show

I finalized the documentation / How to Build, please give a look and see if it can help you in someway: https://opensourceebike.github.io/

Cheers, yea I'll have a read

You know, most probably you can use directly what I did and just add the TSDZ2 torque sensor bits. But seems you have fun on the low level code...

Yea I might get bored, it's definitely a slower start than using circuitpython or similar but I enjoy coding where you know almost everything that's going on, no layers of runtimes or interpreters to second guess!

Do you mean re-use your python - or the osf c code? As once i've sorted out the hardware layer fully - pins/timers etc. I plan initially to copy all the ebike app c code from the tsdz2 osf, including the comms part to the display using uart1 - and I'll amend motor.c to just drive the VESC via a 2nd uart. So it'll be almost exactly like the current osf but without the motor control code...

Good luck on the TSDZ2 torque sensor reverse engineering. Myself, I have all the electronics finalized and already "glued" inside my Bafang motor, so now I just need to improve the Pyhton firmware and I program and debug wirelessly, so no need I keep my hands dirty

I assumed (maybe wrongly) that your python ebikeapp must be doing pretty much the same as ebikeapp() in the osf - is the functionality significantly different at the core? Obv it's in python not c - but the underlying algorithm must be broadly the same?

I guess I should take a look and see!

 

[dsjustice]

well , see this [snip]
this element is filling the gap between motor and cover

This looks amazing! I can't find it for sale anywhere, even searching with the most likely keywords. Can you link to a place I can buy it (assuming it fits my B model)?

 

[pxl666]

not available yet . i will post info if they will be ready for sale

 

[Elinx]

.....
this element is filling the gap between motor and cover

.... I can't find it for sale anywhere, even searching with the most likely keywords. ....

I already did write about some temperature developments on a Polish forum in the Hardware temperature control topic.
You find some links to that Polish forum too.

This is the link to the webshop that will sell them, when available.

 

[RicMcK]

I have 2 older setups one using the 860C display and one the old B&W LCD, both with TSDZ2 motors. 750W, with 48V batteries.

I want to upgrade the B&W LCD to a 860C display, on the older system and do the upgrades to the firmware,on both systems.

Can someone please point me to the last release for the firmware for display & motor, for these now vintage setups?