Na VLCD5 nastaviť veľkosť kolies 14 a 1 magnet.Na zadné koleso namontovať 2 magnety.OK?
New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
docw009
10 MW
Same problem just came up on our TSDZ2B, after 18 months and 1600 miles, Pedals rotate round and round if I get the clutch slipping. Slipping clutch in the big crank gear. Instead of pswpower. i'm buying a new gear/bearing from another aliexpress seller to save a liitle money. May regret that.
Did you have much problems taking off the old gear. The PSWpower video uses a special puller. I may have to make one.
I have taken the big gear off twoTSDZ2B motors and it has come off very easily. No special tools are needed. I've just screwed two screws into it and used them to lift it out. Also the inner motor comes off much easier than the TSDZ2 motor.
It seems to me that a rebuilt big gear is not a good solution, it breaks down more easily.
It seems to me that a rebuilt big gear is not a good solution, it breaks down more easily.
Did your TSDZ2's go a greater distance than your TSDZ2B? If so, that's disappointing. What do you attribute your TSDZ2B early failure to?
docw009
10 MW
Must have been a crap bearing on the TSDZ2B. It's actually 14 months and 1600 miles. Her bike is ridden in OSF/cadence mode at 12-13 mph, so there's been no stress on the pedals or crank bearing. My TSDZ2 bike is OSF too, but gets a lot more pedal force. That one is 24 months and 1800 miles.
I suppose the bearing could have seen water damage, but we don't ride in wet conditions. One exception was a short ride on a sandy beach (fresh water) last August. Had a lot of sand on the motor afterwards.
.She has another ebike to ride while I wait for parts, but she really liked the way OSF cadence works.
I thought the TSDZ2B was suppose to fix crap bearings that plagued the TSDZ2? I guess TS did a crappy job huh? My TSDZ2 has almost 1000 miles on it now. Within the last 100 miles I started to notice a clicking sound from the motor that follows the pedal stroke (1 click per stroke). It does not affect the performance of the motor, just a minor annoyance at this point. I am not going to rip it apart to find the cause. Continue riding and see what happens next.
This clicking noise has been really bugging me. Anticipating it's the sprag clutch bearing, I ordered a replacement but have not installed it yet. Couple of days ago I took a wired ear-set from my iPhone, used duct tape to fasten the mic in contact with 3 different spots on the bike and made audio recordings of each.
1. top of the motor
2. seat tube by the chainstay
3. rear wheel dropout
Playing back each recording I found the clicking noise inaudible at the motor. Audible at the seat tube but not very loud. Very loud at the rear dropout.
So the clicking was not from the TSDZ2 but from somewhere in the rear!
docw009
10 MW
Getting back to our TSDZ2B issue, it appears to have been fixed by oiling the inner sprag clutch on the TSDZ2B. It's been a month and ridden 16 times and hundreds of miles without slipping, The pedals were pretty stiff when new, so maybe it was semi-dry and the little sprags were cocked backwards and not grabbing,
cultRider
1 µW
Creaks, Clicks & Clunks...
Diagnosing and curing strange noises from your bicycle.
www.sheldonbrown.com
Is there more information how to oil TSDZ2B sprag clutch? Is there really oil and not grease?
docw009
10 MW
I'm just an ebike tinker. I used penetrating oil (not WD40) because that's all I had. I did buy some Mobil grease to regrease the gears, and when I do that in the future, I will see if I can force some of that past the dust covers over the bearings,
For an easier access you can remove the dust cover of the CSK30P (without taking the gear out) : both covers are clipped into each other and you can remove the one facing you by carefully using a screwdriver as a lever.
I did that to regrease it as it was slipping too, and had no issues since.
Thanks for the sheldonbrown article!
Things I've tried so far (none of which helped):
-lubed sprag clutch bearing with Kroil penetrating oil
- Checked for play in the BB axle bearings (none that was excessive)
-tighten pedals
-adjust rear derailleur (many times)
-lubed chain
-checked seating of rear wheel axle in dropout.
Ok, I have to to examine gear. I'm just tinker too
That is the Casainho version and is abandoned.
Mbrusa has adapted OSF for Tsdz2 and did some updates based on the Mspider BT version.
The way of flashing isn't changed.
It depends of the display you have, which of the 3 versions you must flash.
- Tsdz2 stock
- Bafang 860C
- KT LCD3
The topic for mbrusa's versions of OSF you find here
So I'm contemplating the TSDZ2B for a Bike->Trike or tadpole recumbent -> quad with a dual freewheel "diff". However, it'll be slow speeds, although needing decent torque. Would it make sense to run at 24v, instead of 48v, in order to not run the motor in the lower end of it's RPMs, but in the middle of it's range? Could that work? I'm figuring I'll install the F/OSS firmware on the controller too.
Lower power (350W? 500W?), lower cost middrive recommendations
So I have a lead on a fairly low priced old Terratrike Rover, and considering buying it and putting on my Dream Bike trike conversion kit (dual freewheel "differential" HOME | tricycleconversion) to turn it into a quad, and having a mid-motor (kinda a front motor on a boom tadpole, but...
endless-sphere.com
Also wondering about what the right display should be? Should I go for the DIY Open Source How to build the display one? Or 850C or 860C? And for the TSDZ2B it seems to be a 6-pin version? Then throttle, speed sensor, etc.
For kits, https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Conversion-Firmware-Mountain-Tricycle/dp/B0CYWKJXLT says it's already OSF, should I trust that? Has the 860C which does seem the more advanced display. I do plan to buy an extra speed cable to make my own programing cable, so I can make sure it's the latest firmware anyways, but I can't seem to find anywhere else buying it with an 860C display.
For kits, https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Conversion-Firmware-Mountain-Tricycle/dp/B0CYWKJXLT says it's already OSF, should I trust that? Has the 860C which does seem the more advanced display. I do plan to buy an extra speed cable to make my own programing cable, so I can make sure it's the latest firmware anyways, but I can't seem to find anywhere else buying it with an 860C display.
I Hate Tax
1 mW
Hmm interesting posts above about the sprag bearing. Seems like mine just start failing after about 6 months. The second one has started showing some early symptoms. I dont ride that heavy but quite frequently. In fact this time around I took great care to try and avoid it. When I took the malfunctioning one out it didn't look damaged at all and we were curious what was actually wrong with it.
Apparently too much lubrication is also not good + the wrong type of lubrication.
I've read that penetrating oil like wd40 is good for cleaning but not lasting lubrication for this type of application. supposedly, some good lubricants may be: ATF, sewing machine oil, freewheel pawl oil.
Might be better to clean with a dedicated cleaner (alcohol?>) rather than WD40.
Here's something funny. I put off installing the OSF for 2 years and this monday I decided to solder my STlink to the 6-pin extension cable. All went well and I managed to read & save the motor's data. Put my bike away, and when I went to grab it yesterday morning, apparently the speed sensor had gotten caught between the chain or the gear and as I was reversing my bike it got cut and snapped. Then I performed some Guinness book-level of stupidity where I probably shorted the controller by taping half-loose wires to each other or to the frame.
So the controller is cooked and now I'm probably getting a TSDZ8 before even having tried the OSF lol. I am kinda bummed about that but I am hoping the 8 is more reliable. (edit: TSDZ2B has served me well but the sprag clutch is annoying)
Still I am tempted to buy a new controller and try to clean out this sprag to hopefully get another year of usage out of it. Difficult choice...
Apparently too much lubrication is also not good + the wrong type of lubrication.
I've read that penetrating oil like wd40 is good for cleaning but not lasting lubrication for this type of application. supposedly, some good lubricants may be: ATF, sewing machine oil, freewheel pawl oil.
Might be better to clean with a dedicated cleaner (alcohol?>) rather than WD40.
Here's something funny. I put off installing the OSF for 2 years and this monday I decided to solder my STlink to the 6-pin extension cable. All went well and I managed to read & save the motor's data. Put my bike away, and when I went to grab it yesterday morning, apparently the speed sensor had gotten caught between the chain or the gear and as I was reversing my bike it got cut and snapped. Then I performed some Guinness book-level of stupidity where I probably shorted the controller by taping half-loose wires to each other or to the frame.
So the controller is cooked and now I'm probably getting a TSDZ8 before even having tried the OSF lol. I am kinda bummed about that but I am hoping the 8 is more reliable. (edit: TSDZ2B has served me well but the sprag clutch is annoying)
Still I am tempted to buy a new controller and try to clean out this sprag to hopefully get another year of usage out of it. Difficult choice...
Last edited:
WD40 is NOT a lubricant. It's a cleaner/water displacement. Great and helping to get rid of gunk, then let dry and lube with a proper lubricant.
After a bit of searching, these 2 seem to have some good options for what type of lube to use. I'm not expert so don't have too much of an opinion, but I did learn some types of lubes can damage the nylon gears.
Mobilgrease 28 & BBSHD/BBS02 : Because A Good Mid-drive Is Better Seen And Not Heard
Motor Grease
Anyone know what kind of grease is in the Das Kit motors? I have over 2k miles on mine and I was going to open it up to just check on it. I want to have some grease handy though for when I do that. I keep seeing things about white lithium as kind of being the basic grease which is kind of...
forums.electricbikereview.com
I use WD40 but for cleaning parts out I tend to use TF90 Fast Drying Cleaning Solvent De-greaser, along with AC90. Years ago paraffin was the cleaning norm showing my age now. Not necessarily the right grease but on the shelf in the my garage I have LM grease which is a lithium based, high melting point grease, designed as a wheel bearing grease but suitable for general purpose applications according to the blurb. Have put it in two TSDZ2(B)s around the gears etc without any problems so far, not sure about the sprag clutches but they are grease packed from new so the LM could perhaps be used to repack them.
docw009
10 MW
Back in November, I reported our TSDZ2B inner sprag clutch slipping like crazy. The pedals would spin free probably forever if they were jiggled. See video. Re-oiled it and it worked,
It's been working fine with over 1500 miles since I cleaned. I'm not the first to report this, by the way, Other posters had the same result several years ago,
I recall using brake cleaner and penetrating oil, both in spray cans, on the clutch. I later bought the red Mobil grease, but don't see a need, I also have a spare gear ... Bought it on Aliexpress last Fall for $41 because it was cheaper than pswpower. Probably a lot more now with US tariffs.
It's been working fine with over 1500 miles since I cleaned. I'm not the first to report this, by the way, Other posters had the same result several years ago,
I recall using brake cleaner and penetrating oil, both in spray cans, on the clutch. I later bought the red Mobil grease, but don't see a need, I also have a spare gear ... Bought it on Aliexpress last Fall for $41 because it was cheaper than pswpower. Probably a lot more now with US tariffs.
Yep, brought a couple of spare main gear assemblies for the TSDZ2 from Aliexpress and a spare main gear assembly for the TSDZ2B from PSWPower before we get any messing around with tariffs, but it seems it may go that sum parts are no longer available for sale to the UK, always sell them on Ebay UK.
I Hate Tax
1 mW
I'll give an update in 1 or 2 weeks about how it went. i'm curious if a good cleaning will also help the one that is 100% FUBAR in terms of functionality. I watched some videos about sprag clutches (should have done that before) and, color me naïve but it seems unlikely to me that these kind of gears should be as unreliable as they are in the TSDZ2. I wonder if the factory grease job is actually the wrong kind of grease. what i'm reading on facebook supports this. users are reporting gummed up old grease
Similar threads
