TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

vadda said:
It's already possible to download directly from Buba's drive ?
hullo, here's that link. I think it's a bit older than casainho's official file.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CPGT-V1ZX7FCzfhgbrPMYfbYtY4_JH2R
the file format is .ihx and not .hex but if I load it, it looks the same to me.
Unlike @jeff.page.rides, for me cadence mode ist not available, the other modes are available but the motor does not work.
 
Uturn said:
vadda said:
It's already possible to download directly from Buba's drive ?
hullo, here's that link. I think it's a bit older than casainho's official file.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1CPGT-V1ZX7FCzfhgbrPMYfbYtY4_JH2R
the file format is .ihx and not .hex but if I load it, it looks the same to me.
Unlike @jeff.page.rides, for me cadence mode ist not available, the other modes are available but the motor does not work.

Just to clarify I wasn't referring to Cadence mode I was referring to the display of cadence on the LCD 3 when it works it's very accurate but when it doesn't work the Cadence display will move as far as 40 points say 60 to 100 Bouncing Around erratically.
 
I've fitted a TSDZ2 250W to my full suspension Giant NRS. I'm using the KT-LCD3 and the v20 beta firmware.

It's absolutely stunning.

Casainho - amazing, thanks for all your work on this. Thanks to jbalatutube as well, the videos were really helpful.
 
How much difference is there between the TSDZ2 motors, 250W and 500W, running the firmware?

Would I get more power, efficiency or lower temp from a 500W motor using the same battery vs 250W?

Also I'm about to fit the temperature sensor to the 250W motor I have, any suggestions on the upper and lower limits for temperature? Thanks.

With the temp sensor in place it will be clear, but what constant load can the 250W motor happily handle without risk of overheating? Is this much different with a 36V vs 48V motor?

Thanks.
 
flightyfishcake said:
...With the temp sensor in place it will be clear, but what constant load can the 250W motor happily handle without risk of overheating? Is this much different with a 36V vs 48V motor?

Thanks.

Do have a look at the Hardware temperature control tsdz2-thread, as the various ways people mitigate heat from core to the surrounding casing helps immensely in regards of negating overheating.
 
mittkonto said:
flightyfishcake said:
...With the temp sensor in place it will be clear, but what constant load can the 250W motor happily handle without risk of overheating? Is this much different with a 36V vs 48V motor?

Thanks.

Do have a look at the Hardware temperature control tsdz2-thread, as the various ways people mitigate heat from core to the surrounding casing helps immensely in regards of negating overheating.

Thanks, that's helpful mittkonto.
 
Uturn said:
for me cadence mode ist not available, the other modes are available but the motor does not work.
after flashing back to version 0.19 I found the wheel magnet was too close to the sensor, so version 0.20 beta 1 may be quite ok and I will try that soon.
 
Hi, I've updated to ver. 0.20.1 Beta and tested for a standard lap that I often do, I can say that having tried all the ver. starting from 0.07. this is the best, the response of EMTB is great, thanks Buba and congratulations.

:bigthumb:
 
Just programming my motor with V20 but am a little confused which is probably self inflicted as I've been messing with frigging the standard software to allow a fiends 36volt engine to read a 48 volt battery.

In the STVP for Windows program there are three tabs, Program Memory, Data Memory, Option Byte. The Program Memory is simply Buba's V20 hex file. But I have changed the settings in the Data memory from standard to read the 48 volt battery. Does the new V20 file over rule these settings or do I have to set them to a particular value or can they be set 0.

Thanks
 
Waynemarlow said:
Just programming my motor with V20 but am a little confused which is probably self inflicted as I've been messing with frigging the standard software to allow a fiends 36volt engine to read a 48 volt battery.

In the STVP for Windows program there are three tabs, Program Memory, Data Memory, Option Byte. The Program Memory is simply Buba's V20 hex file. But I have changed the settings in the Data memory from standard to read the 48 volt battery. Does the new V20 file over rule these settings or do I have to set them to a particular value or can they be set 0.

Thanks
Just follow the wiki.
 
I needed a female to female 5 pin splice and just snipped a pair of Julei connectors and spliced the female ends. All seemed well until a P850 display was connected through the splice and nothing happened. The P850 was damaged, inoperable. Turned out that the Julei connectors came from two different Chinese suppliers and, although they used the same conductor colours, they were almost completely incompatible.

You can’t rely on them.

Edit: BMING is the name on the plugs of the culprit.
 
casainho said:
maximusdm said:
I have a similar problem with Adam.
When I press walk assist the display shows 100W but the motor does not move. I also took it out. Without power I can move motor head easy. With power it is fix! Torque sensor diag works ok, also cadence and speed measurement. Just the motor does not move!
I can hear small electrical buzz from the motor.

What is the possible culprit? motor, controller?

Thanks,
Max.
Can be something with the hall sensors. The ERPS is measured with the hall sensors, so, please see that is the ERPS value on display while you move the motor shaft with your hand.

The problem was due to power cable being crushed. Thanks for support!
 
Is anyone in the USA offering a flashing and upgrade service for riders that own displays and motors? I hate to spend the dollars to buy new and I'm not proficient. enough to do the upgrade. Lacking and Windoze OS kinda limits me.
 
Just been out for an hour on the V20 software and a few things to report.
There's a fraction of a second longer motor delay once stopping pedaling than the standard. Its noticeable but not an issue to the point I'm not sure I would spend time trying to sort the code.
I think the cadence top end problem is slightly worse over the standard 36volt motor run at 48 volts. I will experiment with the numbers in the advanced menu when I get a chance. I normally ride a non electric mtb so do run a higher cadence than most.
Ummm really really struggling getting my head around the way you can change the display outside of the configuration menu which seems to work well. The press the on/off button with a short and long press of the up button is so temperamental as to timing that I was getting into all sorts of unintended fields that in the end I gave up for the night. I'll have another go tonight as I can see the method but my fat fingers and age :D is just not getting the desired results.
In the default power settings its way to easy to get 550 motor watts off even the 3rd level, I know one can change it but perhaps the default could be backed off a bit.
Emtb, I'm not sure yet as I had it set too sensitive and by consequence could pull the 550W upper level I had set in the upper limit, far to often.
The motor is definitely quieter and if it wasn't for the small clicking sound of a partially stripped blue gear then we are probably quieter than some of the commercial Ebikes out there. Not quite Bafang but probably better than the early Bosch and Shimano units I have ridden.

Mind you had a real hoot and a big grin so I can't complain too much, all in all pretty cool guys and big thanks to you developers as in total, way way better than the factory TSDZ2 units.
 
OK there might be a bit of an addendum to my previous post.

On delving more to back off the power output, I went in and calibrated the pedal weights with the aid of a few gym weights. Now basic default setup was 67 and to get any near values I have had to back this off to 40. At 7.5 kgs and 15kgs the output is close ish. Is the output definitely in kgs and not lbs as I'm using imperial measurements ? or am I to assume its lbs.

On looking at the torque convertor output I'm also getting a weird figure of 190 is that correct as you guys seem to think in the 30 -40's ?

Any info would be good.

Thanks
 
OK I can find no way of moving between the sub fields on the odometer display at the bottom reliably. Using the on/off button long push I get the centre display Field as in 1 -7 flashing but as soon as I try to use a short push and then long push on the up button I can sometimes get the current field to move across 1 sub field but not reliably. Am I miss reading the wiki manual ?

The on/off button is fine to simply change the field at the bottom, that works fine.

Aren't we trying to get to much out of a series of keys, there is the on/off button together with the down key which can be done with 1 thumb movement, which could get us straight into this odometer setup and then its just on/off button to move the number of the field and the up down buttons to move sub field. Long push on the on/off button to get out.
 
Waynemarlow said:
OK there might be a bit of an addendum to my previous post.

On delving more to back off the power output, I went in and calibrated the pedal weights with the aid of a few gym weights. Now basic default setup was 67 and to get any near values I have had to back this off to 40. At 7.5 kgs and 15kgs the output is close ish. Is the output definitely in kgs and not lbs as I'm using imperial measurements ? or am I to assume its lbs.

On looking at the torque convertor output I'm also getting a weird figure of 190 is that correct as you guys seem to think in the 30 -40's ?

Any info would be good.

Thanks
Torque sensor gives different results from motor to motor, as also from left to right pedal. I think we can't compare the results.

What is needed is to use the torque sensor full calibration that I developed on a v0.19 branch, and the LCD then show to you the torque sensor value in kgs.
 
Waynemarlow said:
Just programming my motor with V20 but am a little confused which is probably self inflicted as I've been messing with frigging the standard software to allow a fiends 36volt engine to read a 48 volt battery.

In the STVP for Windows program there are three tabs, Program Memory, Data Memory, Option Byte. The Program Memory is simply Buba's V20 hex file. But I have changed the settings in the Data memory from standard to read the 48 volt battery. Does the new V20 file over rule these settings or do I have to set them to a particular value or can they be set 0.

Thanks

The data memory will be blanked and overwritten automatically by the opensource firmware (OSF). Nothing to worry about. If you want piece of mind you could blank the data memory (write 00's) before powering up the OSF the first time
 
Waynemarlow said:
OK there might be a bit of an addendum to my previous post.

On delving more to back off the power output, I went in and calibrated the pedal weights with the aid of a few gym weights. Now basic default setup was 67 and to get any near values I have had to back this off to 40. At 7.5 kgs and 15kgs the output is close ish. Is the output definitely in kgs and not lbs as I'm using imperial measurements ? or am I to assume its lbs.

On looking at the torque convertor output I'm also getting a weird figure of 190 is that correct as you guys seem to think in the 30 -40's ?

Any info would be good.

Thanks

Hi, - In my case I originally calibrated my torque sensor in v20 using my body weight on each pedal. I then discovered that the torque sensor is not linear, so recalibrated for 5kg-25kg range. When calibrated for body weight (78kg) the torque sensor was under reading lower weights so I was compensating by increasing the assistance, which then had the side effect of too much assistance with higher pedal pressure.

I use eMTB mode with 5kg-25kg calibration. It only bites me when climbing a really steep hill with cargo, so I temp switch to power assist mode 3x. Once the torque sensor is fully calibrated I expect to only use eMBT mode since I will be able to get smooth assistance based on full range of my pedal torque. Right now I can only get 400W max (on level 5 eMTB from mem), but I can't make it any higher because it gives me too much assistance at lower torque / rpms and I don't want to ride a pedelec
 
tomjasz said:
Is anyone in the USA offering a flashing and upgrade service for riders that own displays and motors? I hate to spend the dollars to buy new and I'm not proficient. enough to do the upgrade. Lacking and Windoze OS kinda limits me.

I'll do it for you no charge if you just pay shipping. Even easier just send with a return label for me... I'm all set up and only takes a couple minutes. PM if ya want... But only if I can bust your balls about 'oweing me one' hahaha
 
mctubster said:
I use eMTB mode with 5kg-25kg calibration. It only bites me when climbing a really steep hill with cargo, so I temp switch to power assist mode 3x. Once the torque sensor is fully calibrated I expect to only use eMBT mode since I will be able to get smooth assistance based on full range of my pedal torque. Right now I can only get 400W max (on level 5 eMTB from mem), but I can't make it any higher because it gives me too much assistance at lower torque / rpms and I don't want to ride a pedelec

Is the Emtb mode unintentionally set up to overcome this problem in some ways. Have you tried making the EMtb sensitivity set in the configuration fields a little less sensitive as that will by my reckoning lower slow cadence sensitivity and by consequence raise the upper cadence levels. Something I need to play with as I found the EMtb levels a bit odd in some ways. If others have played with those sensitivity levels do say if I have that back to front. I think also there are no levels in EMtb unless you can guide me to where I can set those ? rather EMtb is just a way of giving more assistance at higher cadence speeds where we humans are simply not able to maintain the same level of torque.

Backed off the power levels to 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.6, 0.9, 1.3, 1.8, 2.4, 3.0 which gives a nice level of power shift with some overlap of power levels. Based on a 650w max output ( 48V x 14A = 672 ) with a rider input of approx. 200 and bit Watts which is quite a bit for an average rider
 
Hi!

I recently completed a build with the SW102 on version 19. I am so close to a first ride i can taste it!

However, I cannot seem to get throttle or pedal assist working... The motor spins slowly in walk assist mode, so I know the motor and controller are ok. Also in the config, i see the throttle value changing when i press the throttle so that is working.

Strangely, if i am at the main screen and press the throttle nothing happens. Same with pedal assist. If i spin the crank, the motor does not respond.

I noticed my battery charged to 58V displays 59.6V on the display, so that reading is a bit high but doesn't appear to be causing a problem...

I don't have a speed sensor. Could that cause an issue? Any other ideas i might check?
 
gatorsean said:
Hi!

I recently completed a build with the SW102 on version 19. I am so close to a first ride i can taste it!

However, I cannot seem to get throttle or pedal assist working... The motor spins slowly in walk assist mode, so I know the motor and controller are ok. Also in the config, i see the throttle value changing when i press the throttle so that is working.

Strangely, if i am at the main screen and press the throttle nothing happens. Same with pedal assist. If i spin the crank, the motor does not respond.

I noticed my battery charged to 58V displays 59.6V on the display, so that reading is a bit high but doesn't appear to be causing a problem...

I don't have a speed sensor. Could that cause an issue? Any other ideas i might check?
I think throttle does not work due to an issue, but that is already solved on current master branch.

Pedal assist should work, you must check that you have cadence, torque sensor and human power (human por you need to check on main screen).
 
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