TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

[Doctor Al]

Ok,

So i reflashed motor and controller but this time changed to stm8s105x6 for the motor and hey presto the display is up and running.


Thanks for your help. I'll feedback as to how it goes.

Cheers everyone.

 

[EndlessCadence]

Ok,

So i reflashed motor and controller but this time changed to stm8s105x6 for the motor and hey presto the display is up and running.


Thanks for your help. I'll feedback as to how it goes.

Cheers everyone.

Great! Have fun

What you did is correct and is maybe not very clearly stated in the wiki. I've changed the wiki a little to improve this and we should add a Windows programming tutorial soon.

 

[gaber]

What you did is correct and is maybe not very clearly stated in the wiki. I've changed the wiki a little to improve this and we should add a Windows programming tutorial soon.

That would be great!

 

[gaber]

Yes, it is if you have a Github account (free). I've created a page for you! You can find it here:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/TSDZ2-Glossary

Thanks!

Please let us know beforehand if you want to contribute to other documentation as well.

Any idea why I would keep getting a 404 error when trying to edit the glossary page you created? My account is verified.

 

[EndlessCadence]

Any idea why I would keep getting a 404 error when trying to edit the glossary page you created? My account is verified.

404s is really strange, doesn't sound like an access or rights issue. I don't have administrative rights for the wiki so I can't check if you have access and the required rights. Can't check the repository settings. We have to wait for Casainho :wink:

 

[Doctor Al]

What you did is correct and is maybe not very clearly stated in the wiki. I've changed the wiki a little to improve this and we should add a Windows programming tutorial soon.

That would be great!

Oh I also re downloaded the firmware for the motor, 14.3 rather than 14.2... perhaps that did the trick?

 

[casainho]

Any idea why I would keep getting a 404 error when trying to edit the glossary page you created? My account is verified.

404s is really strange, doesn't sound like an access or rights issue. I don't have administrative rights for the wiki so I can't check if you have access and the required rights. Can't check the repository settings. We have to wait for Casainho :wink:

GitHub Wikis is a simple way to let others contribute content. Any GitHub user can create and edit pages to use for documentation, examples, support, or anything you wish.

 

[Doctor Al]

What you did is correct and is maybe not very clearly stated in the wiki. I've changed the wiki a little to improve this and we should add a Windows programming tutorial soon.

That would be great!

Oh I also re downloaded the firmware for the motor, 14.3 rather than 14.2... perhaps that did the trick?

 

[Doctor Al]

Now up and running.. great power for two seconds then nothing... ideas?

 

[jbalat]

Thanks jbalat!

I've implemented it today, did a test ride and I love how it feels!



I've released version 0.14.3 which includes this high cadence mode (experimental). You can find it here:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/releases/tag/v0.14.3

The wiki has been updated as well:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Usage-and-configuration-of-firmware-version-0.14.x#8-various

Ha ha thanks EC. You can't go back now !! I told you guys that its sooooooo good, and you don't need to peddle above 95 rpm all the time but its good to know you don't need to change gears now until you run out of steam !!

Let me know if you think the bike is less efficient personally I don't see that, I always manage to hit 220w at 32km/hr which is kind of my benchmark..

If you think it may have less torque lower down then we (I mean you) need to implement a ramp for the FOC angle from 80 at low RPM and 115 at high RPM

 

[Doctor Al]

Now up and running.. great power for two seconds then nothing... ideas?

think it may be a mismatch in the firmware between motor and controller.

Any good ideas as how to make the lcd easier to program?

 

[Doctor Al]

is it possible to set the parameters for the bike through the stlink rather than the display buttons. All the defaults are 0 in the latest fw and it takes rather many button presses to get to the values?

 

[Doctor Al]

So, the display now has the latest firmware to match the motor controller. I've set the parameters using the guide and the bike works just fine on level 1 assistance only. Any other level provides zero boost. Also there is a resistance from the motor when pushing the bike backwards, this goes away when the display is off.

I'm totally new to all this, so please do tell me if I'm posting in the wrong place or just generally being a nuisance, I definitely won't take it personally.

Once again, great work everyone involved, can't wait to get this working properly, have four more motors to replicate the process on...

 

[angusinalberta]

Can anyone explain to me the advantage of spinning the pedals at a high cadence? Numbers have been mentioned as high as 120rpm.

There are two reasons I ask. First, any text on bio-mechanics tells us that muscles are strongest when they're stationary and get weaker as he speed of contraction increases. Second, the dyno results for brushless motors always show torque is maximum at zero rpm and drops to zero as the rotational speed increases.

In other words legs and motors both get weaker, force wise, at high rpm, not stronger. What am I missing?

Cheers

 

[xiteamxi]

Can anyone explain to me the advantage of spinning the pedals at a high cadence? Numbers have been mentioned as high as 120rpm.

There are two reasons I ask. First, any text on bio-mechanics tells us that muscles are strongest when they're stationary and get weaker as he speed of contraction increases. Second, the dyno results for brushless motors always show torque is maximum at zero rpm and drops to zero as the rotational speed increases.

In other words legs and motors both get weaker, force wise, at high rpm, not stronger. What am I missing?

Cheers

less stress on the chain for the same given hp if spinning faster is 1 thing.

 

[jbalat]

So, the display now has the latest firmware to match the motor controller. I've set the parameters using the guide and the bike works just fine on level 1 assistance only. Any other level provides zero boost. Also there is a resistance from the motor when pushing the bike backwards, this goes away when the display is off.

I'm totally new to all this, so please do tell me if I'm posting in the wrong place or just generally being a nuisance, I definitely won't take it personally.

Once again, great work everyone involved, can't wait to get this working properly, have four more motors to replicate the process on...

I would do a reset using menu 6.3 and set up you battery cutout voltage and number of cells again
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Usage-and-configuration-of-firmware-version-0.14.x

 

[Doctor Al]

So, the display now has the latest firmware to match the motor controller. I've set the parameters using the guide and the bike works just fine on level 1 assistance only. Any other level provides zero boost. Also there is a resistance from the motor when pushing the bike backwards, this goes away when the display is off.

I'm totally new to all this, so please do tell me if I'm posting in the wrong place or just generally being a nuisance, I definitely won't take it personally.

Once again, great work everyone involved, can't wait to get this working properly, have four more motors to replicate the process on...

I would do a reset using menu 6.3 and set up you battery cutout voltage and number of cells again
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Usage-and-configuration-of-firmware-version-0.14.x

Thank you J! Great to know that a reset brings up the default values, they are not there after a flash of the firmware. Now everything seems operational. Any tips on how to get the power nice? At the moment the power feels similar to stock.

Very much appreciated all your good work. Motor temperature sensor install is next on the list.

 

[casainho]

Help to debug lag issue
See about this issue here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/issues/9

For the ones that are interested in helping solve this issue, please help by looking at the following values on LCD3:
9: Advanced technical data
submenu number configuration name description
3 Pedal torque sensor
4 Pedal cadence
5 Pedal human power
6 PWM duty cycle

The idea is to see how that values changes when the issue happen, like stop pedaling and then pedal again and look at that values. How do they change when the issue happen?

 

[jbalat]

Doctor
I use 5 levels only no boost. Level 5 is 5000w
Level 1 is 800w interpolate for the rest
Enjoy

 

[casainho]

Doctor
I use 5 levels only no boost. Level 5 is 5000w
Level 1 is 800w interpolate for the rest
Enjoy

Would be nice if we could find good values to be the default ones, for 5 assist levels.

So, I think we can consider, based on jbalat values:
1 - 800W
2 - 1850W
3 - 2900W
4 - 3950W
5 - 5000W

 

[jbalat]

Doctor
I use 5 levels only no boost. Level 5 is 5000w
Level 1 is 800w interpolate for the rest
Enjoy

Would be nice if we could find good values to be the default ones, for 5 assist levels.

So, I think we can consider, based on jbalat values:
1 - 800W
2 - 1850W
3 - 2900W
4 - 3950W
5 - 5000W

I would prefer we go back to assist level, like 0.8, 1.8, 2.9..... the fact that we now associate the assist to 5000w does not make sense to me

 

[casainho]

Doctor
I use 5 levels only no boost. Level 5 is 5000w
Level 1 is 800w interpolate for the rest
Enjoy

Would be nice if we could find good values to be the default ones, for 5 assist levels.

So, I think we can consider, based on jbalat values:
1 - 800W
2 - 1850W
3 - 2900W
4 - 3950W
5 - 5000W

I would prefer we go back to assist level, like 0.8, 1.8, 2.9..... the fact that we now associate the assist to 5000w does not make sense to me

I have a better plan, as I wrote on issue #3:

I think is not a good idea, strategically, because:

1. there is no mean for that factor, while it is now is for motor watts that means energy
2. users want defines assist level as a factor of pedal human power in watts/energy

A good plan would be for now to keep as it is and next develop the code for reading pedals watts (I did that before and I can recover the code on git history) and plug the 2 values and so finally users would set the assist level as a factor of pedal human power.

The plan is that and also show to user the force applied to pedals as kgs (easy for user to understand and measure itself if he want to validate).

We have all resources needed to implement that, as we can measure pedal cadence already and we know that each ADC unit of torque sensor represents 1kg of force. We just need other developers to help develop this code.

 

[maximusdm]

Ha ha thanks EC. You can't go back now !! I told you guys that its sooooooo good, and you don't need to peddle above 95 rpm all the time but its good to know you don't need to change gears now until you run out of steam !!

Let me know if you think the bike is less efficient personally I don't see that, I always manage to hit 220w at 32km/hr which is kind of my benchmark..

If you think it may have less torque lower down then we (I mean you) need to implement a ramp for the FOC angle from 80 at low RPM and 115 at high RPM

Hi Jblat,

I need some help to make this work on 48v. I do not want to kill the motor.
Any sugestions to the FOC angle? Now it is 143. I was thinking to test at 175.
MOTOR_OVER_SPEED_ERPS_EXPERIMENTAL 700 should remain same?

Regarding power, I changed MAX_CANDENCE to 95 because i was limited in rpm.
Now I use as assistance 350-700-1000w and is super. I use no boost. I tryed and it did not feel natural.
At 700w on flat city drive i reach 400-500 in peak pushing at startup.

Thanks.

 

[jbalat]

Ha ha thanks EC. You can't go back now !! I told you guys that its sooooooo good, and you don't need to peddle above 95 rpm all the time but its good to know you don't need to change gears now until you run out of steam !!

Let me know if you think the bike is less efficient personally I don't see that, I always manage to hit 220w at 32km/hr which is kind of my benchmark..

If you think it may have less torque lower down then we (I mean you) need to implement a ramp for the FOC angle from 80 at low RPM and 115 at high RPM

Hi Jblat,

I need some help to make this work on 48v. I do not want to kill the motor.
Any sugestions to the FOC angle? Now it is 143. I was thinking to test at 175.
MOTOR_OVER_SPEED_ERPS_EXPERIMENTAL 700 should remain same?

Regarding power, I changed MAX_CANDENCE to 95 because i was limited in rpm.
Now I use as assistance 350-700-1000w and is super. I use no boost. I tryed and it did not feel natural.
At 700w on flat city drive i reach 400-500 in peak pushing at startup.

Thanks.

keep all values the same ERPS=700, MAX_CADENCE=130 but try the default FOC_ANGLE. If the FOC_ANGLE is too low then you won't be able to get to 120 cadence, the motor will just die, so keep increasing it until you can get the cadence to 120 and it feels smooth.

As for the power assist settings, you just need to keep playing around until it feels right for you. Once you have these settings then use the top two buttons to limit the max power based on whether you want to save battery or just to limit the power when taking off up a hill so you dont break your chain.

 

[jbalat]

Hi Jblat,

I need some help to make this work on 48v. I do not want to kill the motor.
Any sugestions to the FOC angle? Now it is 143. I was thinking to test at 175.
MOTOR_OVER_SPEED_ERPS_EXPERIMENTAL 700 should remain same?

Regarding power, I changed MAX_CANDENCE to 95 because i was limited in rpm.
Now I use as assistance 350-700-1000w and is super. I use no boost. I tryed and it did not feel natural.
At 700w on flat city drive i reach 400-500 in peak pushing at startup.

keep all values the same ERPS=700, MAX_CADENCE=130 but try the default FOC_ANGLE. If the FOC_ANGLE is too low then you won't be able to get to 120 cadence, the motor will just die, so keep increasing it until you can get the cadence to 120 and it feels smooth.

As for the power assist settings, you just need to keep playing around until it feels right for you. Once you have these settings then use the top two buttons to limit the max power based on whether you want to save battery or just to limit the power when taking off up a hill so you dont break your chain.
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