TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

[mbrusa]

Cadence is good for bike vehicule to go to work: you can make effort or not as you want. If you are sick you can use your bike without effort pushing up assistance.

So you shouldn't consider it an emergency mode. It's just totally different.

The main problem is that max power reached isn't stable with battery voltage. It calculate a current.
we should maybe add a correction depending on battery voltage to maintain electric power as battery voltage decrease... (proportional).

I didn't well understood what you mean for the changes you made.

Setting assistance to 254 give you a function current=f(rpm) which goes faster to saturation (max battery intensity) than for example assistance at 100?
I assume maybe the phenomenal is amplified by the fact I have high rpm (80 110) )?

at lvl 10 (eco) I got up to 160w (bike doesn't accelerate like dumb but power is enough for an every day bike).

It's allready a little high and I use only 10/254 of capacity of setting of assistance.

I wrote that for me, the cadence mode is an emergency mode, but I don't mean that it should be for everyone.
Everyone uses it as they see fit.

Even if it's a mode that I don't use, it must work well, that's why I modified it, and I will continue if necessary.
Compared to previous versions, the level parameters have changed, before the values entered were proportional to the duty cycle, now they are proportional to the current.

I had also evaluated the option proportional to the power, then I decided on the current. There are pros and cons in both cases.
With low power, like you are using, the reference to the power is better.
With high power, when the battery is low, the reference to the current is better.
I will try to find a compromise, perhaps defining a maximum power in cadence mode.

 

[mikmakmuk]

Yes, I do not recommend using version v20.1C.2-update-2 or earlier and, if possible, I recommend updating to the latest version.
But if you have not had any problems in 2.5 years, don't worry. Nothing is happening.
From what you wrote, E04 is the consequence of a mechanical problem with the motor. Difficult to identify the cause without disassembling it.
Is the bike pedalable with the motor off?

Yes, the motor/bike works as if the battery is empty. I can pedal without issues and the motor makes no noise. Just before the assistance stopped working (a few seconds before), I felt/heard slightly increased vibrations/noise from the motor, higher than usual but no grinding or cracking that would indicate something breaking inside. I thought maybe the hall/torque sensor is broken, but walk assist doesn't work either. Does that exclude a broken hall/torque sensor?

I can open the motor and check if I know what to look for... I have no experience with e-bike motors but feel comfortable opening devices and poking around.

 

[endlessolli]

I just wanted to say thanks again - the newest f/w runs flawless on my & my wife's bike since a couple 100km's.
Also, parameters showing at startup and during 'lights on' are now consistent and correct.
Thank you @mbrusa !

 

[Zambam]

..........I can power up with brakes active, If I power up with throttle on, bike takes off. ................

See #3149 reply from mbrusa. TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102. Was your brake signal active constantly when you did the test or did you let go of the brake lever after power up, which would have cleared the fault and allow the system to run normally.

 

[Zambam]

Is it software or hardware problem? Disconnecting brake sensor doesn't fix the problem ?

See this post from mbrusa TSDZ2 OSF for all displays, VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18, LCD3, 860C-850C-SW102.

Hardware problem, i.e. the brake sensor or magnet alignment somehow moved relative to each other such that the brake signal was always active. Working the brake lever had no effect on a signal that's already active. There was no error message. I spent an hour or 2 trying different things none of which worked. Finally noticed the brake cutout symbol (top middle of display), grabbed the brake sensor magnet, jiggled it and voila!, the frozen display cleared itself and everything worked as it should. I repositioned the magnet with new double sided foam adhesive tape so it's less "hair triggered".

 

[Zambam]

It is a hardware feature of the TSDZ2 controller.
If the brake sensors are active at power on, communication between the controller and the display is inhibited, nothing works.

With the stock displays (VLCD5, VLCD6, XH18) no message is displayed, it is not provided for in the displays and, since there is no communication, it is not possible to send it from the controller.
You can only notice it from the zero SOC bars and the fact that there is no assistance.

Some more recent stock displays, of Bafang origin, show err30, communication problem. But it is provided for in the display firmware.

The version for 860C displays being programmable, the message "Error brakes or comms" is provided.

With LCD3 no message is provided, the system stops at the boot screen.
In theory a message could be added, but I have no plans to continue development for this display.
Also, the memory is full, there is no space available for any changes.

Thanks for the explanation! So the LCD3 display can not be further developed!

Which display would you recommend I switch to? I'd prefer one that's easy to configure, with a good user manual.